Aprilia 125 Ignitor Pack

[ShaggyD]

Hi forum, nice place u have here. This problem may have been answered before, if so please direct me to the answer rather than flaming me. I had a quick look, but that doesn't mean its not there!

I've a problem with a '92 Aprilia 125 Pegaso, its got no spark. I've removed the ignitor & tried to find info. on how you test it, but I have failed! Also, being Mr. cleverclogs I didn't note how it was wired before I removed it! The ignotor has 4 wires which are black, green, pinky red & orange. The bike has a corresponding set of 4, they are black, green (pretty obvious) red & red with a white trace. How do I reconnect it?

Finally, where's a good place for 'priller parts?

All help greatly appreciated.
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[ShaggyD]

I meant to say this in the original post:

The bike has a rotax 125 engine with RAVE valve so I am assuming the same tricks that work on an RS of that age will work on my fake trailie.

Hope being stupid doesn't affect my 'Karma'
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[daz|n00by]

dunno were u r in the uk m8 but 1 of the best places for parts in my area is https://www.speedaway.co.uk/
hope thats of use to you

[ShaggyD]

Cheers for the tip. I'll give it a try. I'm in Norwich by the way.

I might also be wrong about the pack being the same as on an early RS because I went to a breakers & they pulled out a red box with wires where as mine is a blue box with wires made by SEM I think.

Ho-hum!
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[Kickstart]

Hi

That is the coil, which contains some of the cdi unit circuits. From the description it sounds like you have a Rotax 123 engine. Blue box is the early RS type ignition, also used on the AF1 Sintesi, AF1 Futura, Europa, RX125, Pegaso, Red Rose, etc. They are over £100 new.

Best place to go for parts for a Rotax engine is Peter Knight on 0176 141 4106.

To test the coil there are only 2 measurements given. Red to Orange = <0.5 ohms. Black to ignition cable = 2.2 kilo ohms +/-20%. Usefully the manual just tells you to "in case of doubt test with new ignition coil".

The red and white wire is for the kill switch. Disconnect this and try starting the bike as that will tell you if there is a fault elsewhere in the loom shorting out the kill switch.

All the best

Keith
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Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing

[ShaggyD]

Thanks Keith. Having seen your replies to other technical questions I sort of hoped you'd take an interest in this post

I'm now going to ask a question that you probably answered in that last post but I'm too dense to see the answer:

How should it be re-wired? The black & green of the coil obviously go to the black & green of the bike. I can remember that But the Red wire & the orange wire of the coil which way round do those go?

PS you are right, that is a useful piece of advice from the manual!
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[ShaggyD]

The monologue continues..

'rang Peter Knight - he's a top bloke he explained that the orange wire was normally the kill switch wire (ground it, engine stops). So I can wire it all back up no problem

But problem.. None of the leads going into the CDI are live, no matter where the ignition switch is.. I'd have expected the red to be live with the ignition on?

Two things that would be useful now would be:

+A wiring diagram (I found one for an RS50 on this site but its unsurprisingly not the same)
+How to test the regulator/rectifier-its a Ductai 343875. I'm suspecting that to be the next offender in my witch hunt for a culprit!

Thanks again everyone
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[Kickstart]

Hi

My scanner is out at the moment, but I have a Sintesi wiring diagram scanned in (in Italian, sorry) which has the same ignition system:-

https://www.alfa-pages.co.uk/Cagiva/wiring.jpg

https://www.alfa-pages.co.uk/Cagiva/wiringkey.jpg

The ignition system is basically 100% self contained. The only wires that connect to the bikes wiring loom is that for the kill switch and a pair for the charging circuit. The ignition system requires no power from the battery, and so has no connection to the main wiring loom. This is quite unusual for a road bike.

There are checks for the charging system, but however fried the regulator is the ignition system will still work (once you have bump started the bike). If you charge the battery then it will crank the engine over for long enough to debug the ignition system.

I will try and dig out the instructions for checking the stator (but that lives under the rotor, under the cover on the off side of the engine). There are 5 wires coming from the stator, 3 go to the coil and 2 (normally yellow, but may be blue on an old ignition system) go to the regulator / rectifier unit to charge the battery.

If you check the colours of the wires to the regulator / rectifier unit and the numbers on the side of the coil then will double check in the manual. Think the late coil is compatable with the earlier stator, but not the early coil with the later stator.

All the best

Keith
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Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing

[ShaggyD]

Thanks for the diagrams. Being in Italian is better for two reasons
A I can pretend I'm actually in Scenic Italy & not flat Norfolk
B I have an excuse for being confused!

No, seriously they're not too hard to suss out, thanks

I think a method of testing the stator & regulator too would be useful as I'm now about to be totally honest & give you all a good laugh

Before I confirmed which way the two ambiguous CDI leads went I guessed, & I think (no, I'm sure!) it was wrong. The reason I think this is that a molten blob appeared on the CDI case which popped & let out some smoke . For that to happen there had to be power there & looking at the diagrams the only source of power is through the regulator & the stator DOH! Now I can't find power in any of the leads to the CDI so I presume as well as melting that I've melted some other parts. Ho ho ho I'm so talented!

Why can't Italians use connector blocks that only go one way

Thanks again for all your help.
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[Kickstart]

Hi

You probably have fried the coil . They are not cheap new and they do not turn up that often for sale. However as far as I know you should be able to use pretty much any coil from about 1988 to 1996 from an Aprilia 125.

The ignition (both coil and stator) is Swedish!

The ignition system is self generating. There should be no current going to it with the ignition turned off, although when you crank the engine over there will be a load of current.

Did it go pop when you connected it or when you cranked the engine over?

All the best

Keith
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Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing

[ShaggyD]

Bought a new Coil CDI thing, bike works now

I forgot to say in my total disclosure that the bike was stolen/recovered & as a result had wires instead of an ignition switch. I reckon I fried the coil by connecting the kill lead to live

Now all I need is a fuel filler cap, indicators & maybe a lock barrel & I'll be proper sorted Either way I'm off greenlaning tomorrow in celebration!

Thanks again for all your help, esp. Kickstart
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[niw756]

Hi all,

I have the above bike and was wondering if anyone has the coil for sale, my spark is inconsistent and weak so thinking it may be that i.e. dont think its working right.

I have just put a new piston in it, used it for 3 hours, it was fine, then it cut out while i was running it in my garage. The plug and ht lead is brand new!!! Any other ideas?

The coil is blue SEM with 4 coloured wires.

my email is niw756@fsmail.net or 07900 675292 cheers

Nathan
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Regards
Nathan

[niw756]

Hi all,

I have the above bike and was wondering if anyone has the coil for sale, my spark is inconsistent and weak so thinking it may be that i.e. dont think its working right.

I have just put a new piston in it, used it for 3 hours, it was fine, then it cut out while i was running it in my garage. The plug and ht lead is brand new!!! Any other ideas?

The coil is blue SEM with 4 coloured wires.

my email is niw756@fsmail.net or 07900 675292 cheers

Nathan
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Regards
Nathan