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Klause |
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Klause World Chat Champion
Joined: 25 Apr 2004 Karma :
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Posted: 19:15 - 22 Feb 2011 Post subject: KTM WP USD fork service, rough guide. |
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Thought it would be nice to do an offroad biased maintenance guides. As offroad bikes generally need alot more looking after than road bikes. I have a lot of time on my hands at the moment. I can't exactly do a guide at workplace as people might get angry, ha. It took me so much longer to document what I was doing, maybe 2/3x the time.
These forks are off my 2006 ktm200exc. Should be a good guide for other cartridge forks too.
First off, tools. You don't need a lot of them. I haven't included screwdrivers and basic hand tools, if you haven't got any don't even try this. Heres the main list of what I've used...
https://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll75/dr_klause/fork%20rebuild/1tools.jpg
Support your bike so the front end is off the floor. I use a scissor lift, you could use a MX jack or suitable crate/box...
https://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll75/dr_klause/fork%20rebuild/1lift.jpg
You now want to remove the front wheel, brake caliper, stanchion protectors and anything that is connected to the forks.
You should now have just your forks left on the bike. Undo the top fork pinch bolts equally! Before you undo the bottom yoke pinch bolts, loosen off (NOT UNDO) the fork caps, this will help you later.
Now your forks should be removed. Clean them!
It's good practice to back off the damper adjuster, this will help assembly and help your damping valves/needles. Undo your fork cap that you loosened earlier. It's important to keep your fork upright, don't and you'll find out why.
https://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll75/dr_klause/fork%20rebuild/2undocap.jpg
Slide the fork tube down the stanchion. You should see something like this...
https://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll75/dr_klause/fork%20rebuild/3.jpg
Now get your spanner (22mm in my case), pull the spring down and the fork cap up to create a gap and insert spanner...
https://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll75/dr_klause/fork%20rebuild/4.jpg
While holding the spanner undo the fork cap. You should be able to spin of the cap once loosened...
https://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll75/dr_klause/fork%20rebuild/3.jpg
Put the cap, spring, damper rod and any spacers on a clean surface. Poor old fork oil into container, pump damper and outer fork a little to get access oil out. You won't get it all out, it's annoying.
Now put all your parts on clean work area...
https://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll75/dr_klause/fork%20rebuild/5.jpg
Right, if you just want to renew the oil or change the preload spacers or change the spring this is as far as you need to go.
Prize the dust seal off the outer tube and pull down the stanchion. You should be able to see the retaining ring, get a small screwdriver and lift the ring out of its groove, careful not to scratch the chrome...
https://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll75/dr_klause/fork%20rebuild/6.jpg
Now you have to detach the outer tube from the stanchion. You just need to pull them apart till it bottom outs then give them a few knocks.
https://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll75/dr_klause/fork%20rebuild/7.jpg
Pull the top bush off by prizing it apart, then remove all the other parts, best to lay them down in order...
https://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll75/dr_klause/fork%20rebuild/8.jpg
https://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll75/dr_klause/fork%20rebuild/9.jpg
You can now check your bushes for wear. Number 6 bush should be checked for wear on the outside, number 5 should be checked on this inside, mine has slight wear to 5 as you can see a band and 6 has scratches/chips and marks...
https://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll75/dr_klause/fork%20rebuild/10wear-1.jpg
Now for the new parts. Clean your stanchion of old oil, you can wrap cello tape around the top of the stanchion to get rid of the rough cut edges. Oil the cello tape and the seals as you pass them down in order...
https://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll75/dr_klause/fork%20rebuild/12.jpg
https://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll75/dr_klause/fork%20rebuild/15.jpg
Then lastly clip the top bush in place and oil the bush.
https://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll75/dr_klause/fork%20rebuild/20.jpg
Slide your nice clean fork tube back over the stanchion. Push the inner bush into the fork tube ready to be drifted in place, so only these parts should remain...
https://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll75/dr_klause/fork%20rebuild/16.jpg
If you don't have a fork seal driver, make a suitable drift. A plastic tube cut down one side is perfect. If the plastic tube doesn't sit on the bush right put the spacer up against the bush as the spacers has a bigger surface area to knock agaisnt...
https://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll75/dr_klause/fork%20rebuild/dont.jpg
Hold the plastic tube and use the outertube to drift them into place...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=swdNBN_ZNhY
Do the same with the oil seal but be more careful, once it seats you don't want to keep drifting it as it wont take that too kindly. You should be able to see the retaining ring groove once it's seated. Insert the retaining ring and push the dust seal in place. You might require some gentle blows from a rubber mallet to get the dust seal fully seated.
Now compress the outer tube all the way down so the dust seal bottoms out. This is how you need to measure your oil level,no spring etc. You can cut or mark some coat hanger wire or plastic rod etc to your required air gap level and use as a dipstick.
Start filling the stanchion with oil till you reach your air gap distance. Pump the damper assembly in a small smooth motion to get air out. Also pump the outer tube in a small smooth motion. Measure again, top up as required. If you over fill use a syringe to extract small amounts out.
Pull the damper assembly/spring guide up all the way up, otherwise you'll struggle getting it fully up once the spring is in place.
https://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll75/dr_klause/fork%20rebuild/17.jpg
You Just need to assemble it the way you took it apart. So remember the spring, damper rod and spacers. ____________________ Current bikes: 1960 Triumph 5ta x2, TTR600RE, KTM200EXC, Cagiva Elephant 900ie.
Last edited by Klause on 12:48 - 23 Feb 2011; edited 2 times in total |
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silky666 |
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silky666 Captain Rulebook
Joined: 28 Aug 2006 Karma :
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..... Quote Me Happy
Joined: 15 Jan 2005 Karma :
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Klause |
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Klause World Chat Champion
Joined: 25 Apr 2004 Karma :
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Posted: 20:05 - 22 Feb 2011 Post subject: |
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Silky, I never like to put a metal hammer near the chrome work. Only a last resort. But the old seal as a driver is safe/cheap way of doing it. I have a few methods as the proper seal driver tool doesn't always fit .
I will probably do a setup too. As someone had the limit of 20mm preload spacers in mine.
Or you can take your forks to my new work place in Dorking ____________________ Current bikes: 1960 Triumph 5ta x2, TTR600RE, KTM200EXC, Cagiva Elephant 900ie. |
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silky666 |
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Klause |
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Klause World Chat Champion
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drzsta |
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drzsta World Chat Champion
Joined: 20 Apr 2009 Karma :
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Posted: 20:20 - 22 Feb 2011 Post subject: |
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your garage is almost as full of shit as mine ____________________ Current Bikes - BMW S1000RR ‘17 & KTM 690 SMC-R ‘12 |
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Klause |
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Klause World Chat Champion
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silky666 |
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silky666 Captain Rulebook
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Klause |
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Klause World Chat Champion
Joined: 25 Apr 2004 Karma :
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Posted: 11:50 - 23 Feb 2011 Post subject: |
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The shop is only just opening. Was given the task of kitting out the workshop, which is mostly done. The website is very much in progress but getting there. https://www.azcari.com/ When it's open pop in for a chat, which should only be next week or so, I'll be bored as im sure it wont pick up for a while. ____________________ Current bikes: 1960 Triumph 5ta x2, TTR600RE, KTM200EXC, Cagiva Elephant 900ie. |
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Old Thread Alert!
There is a gap of 4 years, 3 days between these two posts... |
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kaizer |
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kaizer L Plate Warrior
Joined: 25 Feb 2015 Karma :
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 9 years, 83 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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