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Checking an engine. Now with pictures

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evoboy
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PostPosted: 01:46 - 03 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote



Obvious boat anchor.
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trevor machine
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PostPosted: 07:17 - 03 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Holy crap, I really want to destroy that seller's mind. What an utter twunt.
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unitynotsocri...
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PostPosted: 13:43 - 03 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

the engine seller could be right,although not a populist or troll,just thought i'd say its highly probable that the engine was running a year go,just left out in the yard with the rain pissing in the ports.

its not been in the sea,the salt would have rotted it.

you get the different rust/corrosion patterns on the cyclinders due to open inlet/exhaust ports.

work with what you have,clean it all polish it all,measure it and relap the valves and you should have a good engine,just corrosion damage.
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andym
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PostPosted: 18:54 - 03 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

unitynotsocrippledatmo wrote:
the engine seller could be right,although not a populist or troll,just thought i'd say its highly probable that the engine was running a year go,just left out in the yard with the rain pissing in the ports.

its not been in the sea,the salt would have rotted it.

you get the different rust/corrosion patterns on the cyclinders due to open inlet/exhaust ports.

work with what you have,clean it all polish it all,measure it and relap the valves and you should have a good engine,just corrosion damage.
To be honest I'm seriously considering scrapping the engine... there are far to many faults with it to list here, but include:
Alternator has been tampered with and not put together again properly.
The water pump is just a massive lump of rust.
Can select 1st and back to neutral, can't find any of the other gears yet.

Plus everything else listed here so far.
It was a joke about it being stored under water, I know it hasn't been, but it has been stored outdoors when he stated a dry shed... I may look at his house on google and see if he even has a shed though
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Last edited by andym on 19:08 - 03 Mar 2013; edited 1 time in total
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StormCrow
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PostPosted: 19:04 - 03 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

andym wrote:

Can select 1st and back to neutral, can't find any of the other gears yet.


That's normal - I freaked out when I replaced the gears in the GPZ500 for the same reason but the gears need to be moving 'forward' to select a gear (I was told by the people that know!)
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unitynotsocri...
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PostPosted: 23:51 - 03 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

dont get too down andym,you ve got a basic good grank and gubbins,water pumps do that.keep positve..
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andym
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PostPosted: 01:35 - 04 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

drunken comments aside, I am still quite positive...

Only problem now is the mother in law is at the wifes for the rest of the week, so I either need to sneak into the garage, or wait until they bugger off.

So I'm not going to get it all sorted up in the next couple of days.... but 1 engine will run again (and I actually prefer using the old engine parts anyway, at least I don't need to change anything through the DVLA)
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DivvyDumbarse
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PostPosted: 01:53 - 04 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I feel pretty shitty now tbh, i sold the zxr after being told by many people its a cam chain issue only to find it wasn't and all this has unfolded, been reading this thread but not knowing if i should comment on it and possibly make things worse, if i knew this would have happened i wouldn't have botherd selling the thing.

I genuinely am sorry for any trouble this causes you, if i lived closer i would definately help out with this project and help you get it running.

Gearbox, water pump, fuel pump and all other main bottom end on the zxr definately worked/still work so you may only need to swap a couple of things to get one good engine keep it up.

I have a few friends with zxr's so if you desperately need parts ill see what i can do.
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andym
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PostPosted: 02:06 - 04 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

DivvyDumbarse wrote:
I feel pretty shitty now tbh, i sold the zxr after being told by many people its a cam chain issue only to find it wasn't and all this has unfolded, been reading this thread but not knowing if i should comment on it and possibly make things worse, if i knew this would have happened i wouldn't have botherd selling the thing.

I genuinely am sorry for any trouble this causes you, if i lived closer i would definately help out with this project and help you get it running.

Gearbox, water pump, fuel pump and all other main bottom end on the zxr definately worked/still work so you may only need to swap a couple of things to get one good engine keep it up.

I have a few friends with zxr's so if you desperately need parts ill see what i can do.


OH IF I COULD GET MY HANDS ON YOUR THROAT RIGHT NOW....

Honestly, it isn't your fault, you sold it as a spares or repair, I bought it as such, at least you didn't lie and say that it was running fine or anything, unlike some lying scumbag from ebay.

As I said, it will run again, hopefully sooner rather than later.
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0l0dom0l0
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PostPosted: 12:29 - 04 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I guess you've just got to put it down as a lesson learnt. No photos on the listing immediately would have raised my suspicions and bank transfer fucked any chances of getting a refund. Remember that for next time. Ebay do mean it when they say 'If this person requests you complete the sale outside ebay, this is against ebay rules and as such you are not covered by our buyer protection' which is in place to stop issues exactly like this.

£225 is a rip off for an engine that old as well.

But, let's face it. You aren't getting your money back and 'smashing up stuff' isn't exactly the best way forward. Don't forget, he knows your address too, so maybe save the smashing up stuff for when you've moved.

I'd personally just strip both engines down to parts, select the best parts out of both engines and re-assemble. There's enough there to make a decent engine with a bit of effort.
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EazyDuz
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PostPosted: 12:40 - 04 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

did a drunk puke up and then shit in that thing?
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andym
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PostPosted: 13:37 - 04 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

EazyDuz wrote:
did a drunk puke up and then shit in that thing?
yes I did.

If I thought the weather was going to hold up then I would bring it all back round here and start rebuilding it.

Since funding is now a little low, I've read that I can reuse metal gaskets (on quite a few websites actually), since it's only a short job to remove the head anyway, I was going to give that a try, but I was wondering if I can get away with putting a small amount of loctite 5920 on each side of the gaskets too?
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 13:59 - 04 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

andym wrote:
EazyDuz wrote:
did a drunk puke up and then shit in that thing?
yes I did.

If I thought the weather was going to hold up then I would bring it all back round here and start rebuilding it.

Since funding is now a little low, I've read that I can reuse metal gaskets (on quite a few websites actually), since it's only a short job to remove the head anyway, I was going to give that a try, but I was wondering if I can get away with putting a small amount of loctite 5920 on each side of the gaskets too?


You may get away with re-using old gaskets with a sealant.
But.... It is a gamble.
Nothing to stop you trying it but the thing to consider is can you be arsed re-doing it all again should it fail. Maybe not today but in three or four months time.
OEM or good third party spares will save you the doubt.

I have bodged shit together before due to complete lack of spares because of extreme location or demands of the job. It never always goes well. Normally it doesn't last. And is always a pain to re-do if buried inside other shite.
On 'modern' equipment things are designed to be put together 'just so.' Older gear was more forgiving as design was not so exacting. Gaskets were not as advanced and performance was not so extreme.
Now we expect cheaper lighter faster so, to some degree, the price is less for more.

If you are happy to bodge then the 'glue' you mention will probably be fine. Just do not be shocked if/when it fails early. It might run for another hundred years though. Wink
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stevo as b4
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PostPosted: 18:25 - 04 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I hope that the crank looks decent in your spares engine Andy. As if so then I would be tempted to take it and anything else that looks worth keeping and as you say use the bits to re-build your old engine with.

I think you could get away with new shells for the big end and mains, a pattern gasket set, and a set of new piston rings and have the old block honed. You said the head was not too bad, so maybe re lap the valves in and check the stem seals and that would do, once you've cleaned everything up. If you can use the ex's dishwasher for that even better! Thumbs Up

If your old oil pump, water pump and cam chain tensioner are all ok then that's good news, but id put a new cam chain in if your re-building while you've got the motor apart.

I'd still be tempted to put the rest of the spares engine (minus crank) back together, and do one of two things with it.

1, My preferred option would still be to follow Hetzer's advice and pop it through the sellers window, or through his car windscreen. I've been fucked over before with buying stuff to find I've been ripped off, and it's true that never doing anything nasty about it really gets to you even years later sometimes!

2, You could take whats left of the spares engine (most of it I would think) and weigh it in for scrap. You might get a few quid for it then that would pay for the new shells or a gasket set etc?

One way or another I'm sure you'll get it sorted and running again soon!
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 19:34 - 04 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

stevo as b4 wrote:
I hope that the crank looks decent in your spares engine Andy. As if so then I would be tempted to take it and anything else that looks worth keeping and as you say use the bits to re-build your old engine with.

I think you could get away with new shells for the big end and mains, a pattern gasket set, and a set of new piston rings and have the old block honed. You said the head was not too bad, so maybe re lap the valves in and check the stem seals and that would do, once you've cleaned everything up. If you can use the ex's dishwasher for that even better! Thumbs Up

If your old oil pump, water pump and cam chain tensioner are all ok then that's good news, but id put a new cam chain in if your re-building while you've got the motor apart.

I'd still be tempted to put the rest of the spares engine (minus crank) back together, and do one of two things with it.

1, My preferred option would still be to follow Hetzer's advice and pop it through the sellers window, or through his car windscreen. I've been fucked over before with buying stuff to find I've been ripped off, and it's true that never doing anything nasty about it really gets to you even years later sometimes!

2, You could take whats left of the spares engine (most of it I would think) and weigh it in for scrap. You might get a few quid for it then that would pay for the new shells or a gasket set etc?

One way or another I'm sure you'll get it sorted and running again soon!



The old block is facked as the thrust bearing chewed it out (see photos). The 'new/other' engine is most probably sound/sounder but just has some detritus in the bores.
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andym
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PostPosted: 20:58 - 04 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've decided to try sorting the head from the new engine as I'm not sure why the valves were hitting the pistons the way they were in the old one (it may have been because I had set the timing wrong), the rust seems to be just surface crap, and the valves have actually come up better than the ones in the old engine (well the one that is done anyway).... that and I snapped 1 of the water pipe bolts and it's a pain to remove the rest as it's too far into the head.

I'm just having some trouble with the valve grinder though, I've never used one and it keeps slipping off.

Anyway, after a bit of advice with the valves... if I try to remove the valve completely it seems a little stiff towards the end, but feels fine the distance I guess it has to travel. Are the supposed to be a bit stiff or does that mean the guides could be fucked too?

stevo, as much as I would love to replace every single consumable on both engines, that isn't really a financial option at the moment, if I throw an engine together and it has problems that will require new parts then I will deal with that when I know at least 1 of them is up and running (of sorts), for now, I refuse to buy anything else for either of the engines when technically they could both just be scrap metal... speaking of which, I would probably get about £10-15 weighing them in which does't really make it worth the hassle to be honest.

Anyway this is subject to change, but from the 2 engines, I'm going to try using the following parts

1 = old engine, 2 = new

Crankcase 2
gearbox 1
starter 1
clutch assembly 1
oil pump 2 depending on condition
water pump 1
pistons 2
cylinders 1
head 2
alternator 2 depending on condition (may require a full strip and rebuild from both)
sump and various other bits required internally and externally 2
parts that are missing from 2 will be salvaged from 1... or a scrapyard.

If anyone has some usuable exhaust nuts they are willing to sell, also usuable rear engine mounting nuts and bolts I will pay a reasonable price plus postage
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 23:56 - 04 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

The valyes will be sticky due to carbon or rust on the stem. When the springs are removed you can try to scrape any hit off the stems before knocking out the guide. The stem is hard nickel steel the guide is softer cast steel.
The grinder you have is a lapping tool. They don't stick well to small engine valves an slip off. I don't know where you'll find. Small engine lapping tool though.
As you seem to have n idea wot you need or want to do then the engine should be near enough when fixed up. Just double check if in doubt.
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andym
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PostPosted: 01:11 - 05 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

The inlet valves all came out easily enough, I must have done a good job when I cleaned them, can't understand why 1 would have been a little stiff though (mind you it was one of the open valves).

As for the valve grinder, I've bought 2 now, 2 lots of paste (course and fine), there is some pitting on the top of the valves and the only suction cup that will stick is the 22mm (inlet), but it's to big to put any pressure on the valve, so I can't grind it in properly.

I've tried oil, scraping, sand paper, water, and still can't get the smaller cup to stick, even though it should.
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trisers
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PostPosted: 10:26 - 05 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've seen mechanics attach a cordless screwdriver set on slow speed to the valve stem and gently pull the valve onto the seat to grind it in....
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 11:22 - 05 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

andym wrote:
The inlet valves all came out easily enough, I must have done a good job when I cleaned them, can't understand why 1 would have been a little stiff though (mind you it was one of the open valves).

As for the valve grinder, I've bought 2 now, 2 lots of paste (course and fine), there is some pitting on the top of the valves and the only suction cup that will stick is the 22mm (inlet), but it's to big to put any pressure on the valve, so I can't grind it in properly.

I've tried oil, scraping, sand paper, water, and still can't get the smaller cup to stick, even though it should.


Clean the bottom face of the valve and evostick the lapping tool on.

Really you're not actually 'grinding' the seat. The theory of lapping is to create an air-tight seal between the valve face and the valve seat. To increase cylinder compression/prevent loss of cylinder compression.

Seats are 'ground' to a narrower angle than the valve face. This means as the faces wear there will continuously be an air-tight seal as the valve 'creaps' into the seat.
The air-tight seal is only a very thin line on the seat and valve where they make uniform contact.
Lapping removes only the rough edges of the grind to permit this thin line to form.

You can 'grind' old valves in but the issue is that they may stick due to the increased friction from a big wide contact line. i.e. the whole width of the valve face will now contact the seat face. So instead of a line 0.5mm thick you will produce a line 3-4mm thick. (on a bike valve).
Strictly speaking an old engine should really have new seat fitted with new valves or if within OEM limits the old parts can be re-faced by a grinding machine. Expensive to do.
What you will have when you complete your task is an engine that will probably run fine but don't expect 26,000 miles out of it.

Big contact surfaces also 'pick-up' and foul so actually can wear at more accelerated rate. This could mean tappet clearance settings will be needed more frequently.

If you have marked the valves to there ports you probably won't need too much lapping. Though since you mentioned pitting I would assume the engine could do with new seats and valves.
BUT ONLY IF YOU INTEND TO RUN IT FOR YEARS.

If you get it running then it will not be much worse off than an engine of the same 'age'. So can be treated as such.
But it will be cleaner than the dead body that feckin' pikey dragged from the bottom of the canal and sent to you. Smile
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Vincent
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PostPosted: 19:03 - 05 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd forget about both these engines, eBay anything on them that might sell, chalk it down to experience then get on the ZXR forum and enquire about a replacement lump. If you stick with these engines, they could/will cost a lot more to put right and take a long time. As someone says above - better to buy a whole bike and use the engine. I've done this with bikes and managed to get my money back by selling off parts I didn't need - free engine Cool

I reckon you may have been a little too keen and bought the first engine you found, (we've all done it), obviously, paying cash was a massive mistake, as was buying an engine without even seeing photos.... if you'd have stuck to Paypal, there's a good chance that you would have got a refund as he described it as "very good condition" and the bloke is obviously a liar, ("kept in a shed" my arse). Having said that, it can be a struggle receiving a refund off a seller with 100% FB.

Nah..........I'd get rid and move on, just make sure you learn by your mistakes. Thumbs Up
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trevor machine
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PostPosted: 07:17 - 06 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Vincent wrote:
the bloke is obviously a liar, ("kept in a shed" my arse).


To be fair, he didn't say it had a roof.

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Walloper
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PostPosted: 09:33 - 06 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

trevor machine wrote:
Vincent wrote:
the bloke is obviously a liar, ("kept in a shed" my arse).


To be fair, he didn't say it had a roof.

Mr. Green


Or if it was above the ocean's High-Tide line.
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Alpha-9
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PostPosted: 10:02 - 06 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you even raised a dispute through ebay?

It's pretty clear..regardless of how you paid for it
Item sold as very condition
Item wasn't in very good condition, or even good condition

You should have done that before working on it, there's not much you can do now I imagine

So good luck! Thumbs Up
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Vincent
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PostPosted: 10:27 - 06 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

One more thing................if ever a seller uses the excuse of not wanting to be paid by Paypal because of the charges - which I thought was more like 5% than the 15% this a'hole reckons - just offer to cover the charges yourself then see what other bullshit excuse they use. IIRC, it's against ebay rules not to accept PP as a payment method anyhow.
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