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Buying a GPZ 500

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koolio
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PostPosted: 21:06 - 16 Apr 2014    Post subject: Buying a GPZ 500 Reply with quote

Finally decided on a GPZ 500 as my knock around everyday bike. Can anyone tell me which years are the ones to go for and what to look out for?

I'm not too concerned with dual or single discs (may even prefer a single disc model) but wouldn't mind a decent example, circa 20,000 miles or less would be nice.

I know prices are cheap, what should I expect to pay?
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arry
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PostPosted: 21:09 - 16 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Get a twin disc - the brakes were the worst part of the bike bar far.

Anything from £600 to £1500 depending on condition.

Watch out for play in the rear suspension linkage, saggy and / or forks and rusty collectors on the exhaust

They've got a rep for engine damage following magnets falling off. Have a search on that - not experienced it personally
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kitty kat
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PostPosted: 21:23 - 16 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

I experienced the magnets falling off, way back in 1999. I bought a replacement alternator rotor with a continuous magnet all the way round. I managed to romove old one & fit new one no problem.
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Irezumi aka Reuben
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PostPosted: 23:15 - 16 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Try and get one with a replacment exhaust system. NEXXUS was always good.
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ws4936
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PostPosted: 23:33 - 16 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

As above. Try a D6 onwards. With 17" wheels, much better than earlier models.
The brakes on the single discs are a shit in winter though. Regular cleaning and maintenance will keep you busy. 2 into 1 exhausts are a great addition. Pitting on stanchions/cut up seals, rust on exhaust, are some obvious things to look out for...a great commuter though, fantastic in snow Very Happy
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 09:15 - 17 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Anything pre-1994 with the 16" wheels is to be avoided on the basis that they have the self-destructing alternator magnets. Or get one cheap and replace the rotor with an aftermarket one as soon as you get it.

As has been said, standard exhausts quick-rot, motad nexxus systems work well providing you put spacers under the belly pan brackets (melts a hole otherwise for the cost of four washers). There will be play in the uni-trak linkage.

They crash well. Check for signs of crash damage on the water pump cover on the RHS and the sidestand bolt on the LHS.

I actually preferrd my old-shape one wit the 16" wheels. It seemed to handle better, appeared more powerful and the rear drum brake worked where the rear disc on the newer ones doesn't.
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 09:34 - 17 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
They crash well. Check for signs of crash damage on the water pump cover on the RHS and the sidestand bolt on the LHS.

And around the top fairing mounts where the mirrors bolt on.

Clutch basket rattle is normal, mine did it with 4,500 miles on it. It should quieten down with the clutch pulled in. It would also ground the centre stand on kerbs and small speed bumps - expect a bit of sag from the rear shock, as well as the stock free play.
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StormCrow
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PostPosted: 19:26 - 17 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

My 2p worth is that they're good bikes all round - I've still got my GPZ500 (89 model, drum brake and single front disc) - the brakes are crap in general although to be honest the drum isn't bad when set up properly.

My alternator magnets went, taking out the gearbox at the same time, but parts are fairly cheap and plentiful (some parts excluded, brake discs for example!) and after a bit of spannering it's running fine. It's slightly wheezy admittedly, but it's on 68,000 miles so I'll allow that... Laughing

I use mine in the winter - it's ratted and matt blacked everywhere so no cleaning and if it gets dirty, paint it again! It's serving well this week as my Trident is in the garage having the valves done, to be honest I forget how much fun the GPZ is when you want it to be... Cool

https://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y166/stormcrow667/GPZ500%20Halo%20Bike/After%20gearbox/2013-07-121620022_zpsd505bd8d.jpg
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 23:04 - 17 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

StormCrow wrote:
https://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y166/stormcrow667/GPZ500%20Halo%20Bike/After%20gearbox/2013-07-121620022_zpsd505bd8d.jpg

Oh, proper job. That looks smashing.
____________________
Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike
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StormCrow
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PostPosted: 00:17 - 18 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you Roger. Smile However, given your occasional propensity to sarcasm, I'm left wondering if you mean what you say...? Laughing

However, I'll take it at face value until the memes start showing up... Wink
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 09:27 - 18 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

No, I've genuinely got a lob on. That looks ace, I'm now having mild sellers regrets about punting on my tatty GPZ rather than ratting it out. Thumbs Up
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Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike
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tsmith
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PostPosted: 18:56 - 18 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

the EX500E series had the twin discs, in the UK the E9 model was released in 2002 and the E10 was 2003. UK production stopped after that, although the D series continued in the US until 2009 I believe.

In the UK the EX500D series came out in 1994 and had the 17 inch wheels, updated styling and disc brakes front/rear.

The EX500A series was the original release (1987) with 16 inch wheels and drum rear brake.

Get the newest / lowest milage one you can. Suspension wears out and gets soggy, exhaust downpipes rot and the brakes aren't that good. Nothing that can't be fixed though: Michelin Pilot street radials combined with a Hagon rear shock and progressive front springs with 15w fork oil transform the handling, a full Delkevic 2-2 stainless system improves the look and sound of the bike and a caliper service with braided hoses and sintered pads front and rear sorts the brakes out.

i wouldn't pay over £1200 for one unless its an E series in fantastic condition with very low milage. £1500 max for one of those, but I'd try to haggle down unless it had the upgrades listed above.
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koolio
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PostPosted: 23:30 - 18 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Right ok thanks everyone, so later is better.

Reason I'm not too concerned about a single disc front is I'm usually riding old bikes (70s and older) so I'm used to bad braking, planning ahead etc. I don't want to get used to having too "modern" brakes or I think it would change my riding style.
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koolio
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PostPosted: 21:58 - 30 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quick question is 28,000 miles a lot for a GPZ 500?

It's a new cam chain on most of the old bikes I've ridden / am riding.
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 23:27 - 30 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

First series it is probably overdue a flywheel.

Engines are fairly tough, although cam chains wear out (tensioner is on the front of the engine), and the primary drive chain can get slappy with age as well.

Chassis wise, more how they have been treated than mileage.

All the best

Keith
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evoboy
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PostPosted: 01:10 - 01 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bloody hated mine. It was a '99 model with single disc. Cost me £500 with 30k, sold it for £500.

Didnt stop, it had the same sort of ground clearance as a cruiser ( used to scrape the pegs, then the peg hangers. It also used to get beached on my driveway Laughing ), the suspension was woeful, soft up front and rock hard at the back.

I tried for ages to get the brakes to work properly. High grade pads, braided line, after market disc etc, it was better, but still awful/dangerous.

The NTV Revere I now have to replace it is a much better bike. It isnt as fast, but the suspension is more compliant, the brakes ( even being a single disc ) stop the bike pretty well and it is actually quite fun to ride. Its 10 years older too....
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motad_uk
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PostPosted: 08:34 - 01 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
Anything pre-1994 with the 16" wheels is to be avoided on the basis that they have the self-destructing alternator magnets. Or get one cheap and replace the rotor with an aftermarket one as soon as you get it.

As has been said, standard exhausts quick-rot, motad nexxus systems work well providing you put spacers under the belly pan brackets (melts a hole otherwise for the cost of four washers). There will be play in the uni-trak linkage.

They crash well. Check for signs of crash damage on the water pump cover on the RHS and the sidestand bolt on the LHS.

I actually preferrd my old-shape one wit the 16" wheels. It seemed to handle better, appeared more powerful and the rear drum brake worked where the rear disc on the newer ones doesn't.


when did you have your system?- not saying we have never made a mistake in 20 years of selling these but if the system is right and fitted right we have not had any feedback on belly pan clearance

please let me know on ianmcdonald@motad.co.uk
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 09:57 - 01 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Any chance you're thinking of the 2-into-2 stainless downpipes from https://www.sandybikespares.co.uk/ ?

Probably not, but they did melt through my belly pan. Messed up the nice pattern of scrapes and gouges I already had on there. Wink
____________________
Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 10:11 - 01 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

motad_uk wrote:

when did you have your system?- not saying we have never made a mistake in 20 years of selling these but if the system is right and fitted right we have not had any feedback on belly pan clearance

please let me know on ianmcdonald@motad.co.uk


Would have been back in 2000. When you were still fitting mild steel flanges to the stainless headers Wink. That's what eventually killed the system but it survived a long time.

It did excellent service on more than one bike but the melty belly-pan thing always was a known issue back when I frequented the GPZ/GPX owners club boards.

When I got the bike, it had a small hole melted in the bottom right part of the belly pan, towards the back, by the exhaust. I put a couple of washers under the brackets to space it out which stopped it going any further.

I broke that belly pan on a kerb and got another one off a breakers, that one came with a small hole already melted in the same place.

I fitted the same system to a second bike some years later and noted the same thing was going to happen so put a bit of heatproof tape on the inside of the plastic and spaced it out pre-emptively.

As I recall you can JUST set it up so it doesn't come too close to the belly pan but then you can't get at the sump bolt.

Here's a picture of the second bike. The system will be over 10 years old by that point and had done in excess of 100,000 miles. The end had been welded back on twice.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/gpz/gpzright.jpg

Even still, you can see how close it comes to the belly pan.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/gpz/engineright.jpg

To be honest, I've put it down as a feature of those systems and I've always recommended them to people because they work well and are hard wearing. The clearance is tight and the bike was never really designed for a 2-1 system. There simply isn't clearance for the wider pipe to go past the belly pan with the standard brackets. Probably not helped if they get slightly bent on a speedhump/kerb. Easily fixed by using at most two washers between the belly pan and its rear brackets.

EDIT: A quick google found an old ebay auction of a GPZ500 belly pan with good pictures of classic motad melting. I've seen this exact damage replicated many times on this model of bike, both in pictures on the old GPZ/GPX OC forum and when I've been out and about. I've attached the pictures.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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robocog
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PostPosted: 11:16 - 01 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good choice Wink

I'd go for 2nd gen (1994) onwards with the 17" wheels personally, slightly more tyre choices

Loads of spares a plenty out there - and not expensive

Mine has proved very reliable (as long as people don't run into it)

Not anything special, just cheap, comfy, reliable and economical machines

I have just had mine down to bare frame and done the full monty rebuild on mine - as I have no intention if getting rid

The worst rust sites on mine-
under battery tray/airbox and around the rear suspension mount
swingarm
in gusset by headstock
my original exhaust was holed and rotten out by 18k miles
(in cross link join under sump)

I have stripped and cleaned and regreased my swingarm bushes every couple of years, I sometimes get advisories on the MOT , othertimes not

suspension is quite softly sprung if your a full sized bloke who likes pies
It's also quite low

Brakes are not the best, but a set of braided lines and sintered pads makes them capable of locking BT45s in the dry if you accidentally panic brake Whistle
std - it teaches you to read the road ahead!

Valves are old school adjustable with simple hand tools so pretty drama free to check and adjust (buy new o rings for the coolant lines that run through the cam cover before attempting this)

Upper fairings are not so easy to get hold of , if the bike takes a nap on tarmac - they do break and take some of the impact, both my incidents required plastic surgery

top tip- Removing the metal backing from the indicators helps them pop out in the case of incidents rather than punch fist sized holes in the fairing

Water pump covers will get holed if they get dropped on the right hand side (the good news is that the engine was used on quite a few bikes - KLE, all years of the EX/GPZ500 and the cruiser 500 and they are all interchangable AFAIK)
They will also weld up OK if you know someone good at TIG and none on eBay at the time you may need one

I have a delkevic full twin stainless system on mine, it's quite loud compared to std, but should outlive me barring any impact damage/abuse
Yes it tried melting the lower fairing , some longer bolts and some spacers in the rear mounting points has that one fixed now

I love my GPZ to bits as it does exactly what I need it to, and does it quite well
I commute 4 or 5 miles to work and back - so do get issues with oil emmulsion when the weather is wet and cold - doesn't do it in summer
(it gets a twice annual oil and filter change so it doesn't worry me)

A longer run clears it up, so its a case of I need to work further away from home, or take a longer route Wink

My DR250 suffers the same as did the GSF650 -your right - I should possibly set the alarm earlier and use a push bike and lose a few stone

I have been on 300 mile trips each way on it, and I wasn't walking like john wayne / deaf and numb at the other end

Never had it 2 up , so can't comment on what its like loaded up or with pillion

Unsurprisingly there's a few dedicated forums for them - worth a nosey round them or hunting bargains or nuggets of good info buried in the piles of waffle

ex500.com (the longest running - quite american centric)

and a couple of newer UK based sites
gpz500.co.uk
gpz-500.com

Regards
Rob
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



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PostPosted: 16:46 - 01 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

robocog wrote:

Water pump covers will get holed if they get dropped on the right hand side (the good news is that the engine was used on quite a few bikes - KLE, all years of the EX/GPZ500 and the cruiser 500 and they are all interchangable AFAIK)
They will also weld up OK if you know someone good at TIG and none on eBay at the time you may need one


The water pump covers are interchangeable, the engines aren't identical. The black GPZ one is the only "full power" one, the others are in a lower state of tune. Some versions have one and some have two ignition pickup coils.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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koolio
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PostPosted: 10:54 - 21 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
i wouldn't pay over £1200 for one unless its an E series in fantastic condition with very low milage. £1500 max for one of those, but I'd try to haggle down unless it had the upgrades listed above.


I've been watching the prices since this thread went up, although I've been abroad so a nice one I wanted to purchase went by the time I got back.

I've consistently seen smart examples, with roughly 15-20k, twin disc circa 2001 models for at best £1200+ that's in original condition no upgrades.

I would love a low mileage example and also the twin disc, not too concerned if its tatty.

It's odd because FZR 400 and 600s with the same or less mileage can be had for £900, granted they are double the age but not in bad nick.
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