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TUG |
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TUG World Chat Champion
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TUG |
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TUG World Chat Champion
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Nemo |
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Nemo Could Be A Chat Bot
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lihp |
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lihp World Chat Champion
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Teflon-Mike |
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Teflon-Mike tl;dr
Joined: 01 Jun 2010 Karma :
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Posted: 17:52 - 19 Apr 2014 Post subject: |
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1/ What state are the crank-case breather pipes in?
Any breather pipes clogged, kinked, trapped?
If you 'pull' any of them with the motor running, do you get excessive 'blow' from the vent?
2/ Has the sump plug been over tightened at any point?
You can often get a crack in the casting you cant see under oil weepage, that opens up when motor gets warm.
Those would be my top two checks.
Crank case pressure is in the crank-case; by-pass valve relieves pressure in the pumped supply; that would normally show on a gallery joint, such as the base gasket. Possible, but wouldn't expect oil from around drain plug.
Also, a stuck relief valve more commonly sticks 'open' causing low oil pressure; often caused by the oil filter clogging, and not being replaced frequently enough; oil circulating unfiltered and 'crud' in the oil gumming the relief valve there.
If it is high crank-case pressure... worryingly points towards worn bore/rings and 'blow-by' from combustion pressure getting into the crank-case. Is it a mega high-miler? Does it burn much oil? ____________________ My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?' |
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lihp |
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lihp World Chat Champion
Joined: 22 Sep 2010 Karma :
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Posted: 18:49 - 19 Apr 2014 Post subject: |
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Teflon-Mike wrote: | 1/ What state are the crank-case breather pipes in?
Any breather pipes clogged, kinked, trapped?
If you 'pull' any of them with the motor running, do you get excessive 'blow' from the vent?
2/ Has the sump plug been over tightened at any point?
You can often get a crack in the casting you cant see under oil weepage, that opens up when motor gets warm.
Those would be my top two checks.
Crank case pressure is in the crank-case; by-pass valve relieves pressure in the pumped supply; that would normally show on a gallery joint, such as the base gasket. Possible, but wouldn't expect oil from around drain plug.
Also, a stuck relief valve more commonly sticks 'open' causing low oil pressure; often caused by the oil filter clogging, and not being replaced frequently enough; oil circulating unfiltered and 'crud' in the oil gumming the relief valve there.
If it is high crank-case pressure... worryingly points towards worn bore/rings and 'blow-by' from combustion pressure getting into the crank-case. Is it a mega high-miler? Does it burn much oil? |
Stop talking rubbish, do you have any experience with the engine in question?
It is NOT a sump plug, nor is it a drain plug. It is a banjo bolt for the main oil gallery.
Also, who mentioned anything about high crank case pressures? Oil Pressure is not Crank Case pressure.
Do you read threads before replying? Or just copy and paste from a random selection of generic responses and hope that you get one that is relevant every so often? |
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TUG |
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TUG World Chat Champion
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StormCrow |
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StormCrow Scooby Slapper
Joined: 15 Mar 2010 Karma :
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Posted: 21:44 - 19 Apr 2014 Post subject: |
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Ah. The Bolt That Should Not Be Removed...
Have a poke around on EX500.com - that's what it's known as on there. It's a plastic(?) 'bolt' that serves, as you say, as a diagnostic aid for Kawasaki. However, it's a terrible design, is hollow (as a typical banjo bolt) and snaps very easily, and is known for leaking a lot when disturbed.
I *think* that the suggested solution is to replace the bolt, alongside presumably a new sealing washer or o-ring (I forget which it uses) - personally if it were my GPZ I'd probably replace it with a bolt instead and plenty of sealant - the bastards are known to keep on leaking... I don't believe it serves any purpose other than for the above reason, so I guess replacing with a proper (if maybe slightly shorter?) bolt would be a better fix.
That or chemical metal... |
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lihp |
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lihp World Chat Champion
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TheManWithThe... |
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TheManWithThe... Brolly Dolly
Joined: 30 Aug 2010 Karma :
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StormCrow |
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StormCrow Scooby Slapper
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331X2 |
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331X2 Crazy Courier
Joined: 10 Jul 2013 Karma :
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Posted: 21:36 - 20 Apr 2014 Post subject: |
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At the risk of the PO going spastic due to not reading his thread previously or having ever owned such a bike, where exactly is it leaking from? I'm assuming around the washer/seal due to not getting enough torque on the bolt?
What does it seal up against? Machined face or paint? What kind of seal is on there (material and design )? Definitely no hairline fractures or scores on the face?
Not sure of the specifics but trying to break it down to the fundamentals so us lower echelon types can understand
Edit: Sentence restructuration... |
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331X2 |
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331X2 Crazy Courier
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TUG |
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TUG World Chat Champion
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Posted: 02:37 - 25 Apr 2014 Post subject: |
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Thank you for everyone's help! I've found the leak now, it's actually coming from the casing above the bolt for the main gallery so it's the water pump casing gasket which is to blame not the bolt of doom
After jet washing the bike to make sure there was no oil dripping then after that, returned the bike to its side stand on a dry patch and set myself up (torch and an ear bud lol). Put the choke on and fired it up, I waited for about 15 secs and then I saw it come down from behind the cover onto to top of the bolt! I was so happy but wanted to double check, wiped it all down again and this time poked the ear bud right inside and fired it up again and sure as anything, there it was. ____________________ Haz ER-5, innit! |
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 10 years, 2 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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