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Just bought a RSV Mille for £1400 - What to look for?

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GSTEEL32
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PostPosted: 21:32 - 22 Apr 2014    Post subject: Just bought a RSV Mille for £1400 - What to look for? Reply with quote

Its a Cat D (meh!), and has obviously had a low speed drop on its side, but its just done 40 miles around the north circular without missing a beat. Its got a Power commander 3 fitted, but no idea what map its got. Is the PC3 with an original exhaust a bit pointless ?

I might give it a once over this weekend and a quick service. Is there anything in particular I should be keeping an eye on ? I've got no service history, so what jobs should I definitely tackle first ?

I've not had it long , but would definitely say the engine feels less "agricultural" than my previous Ducati twin....

https://i.imgur.com/qa6nq1t.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/CH0VR6Y.jpg
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spikenipple
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PostPosted: 21:45 - 22 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's pretty important with these bikes to keep the battery charged properly so it has a good chance of starting properly. The starter sprag clutch breaking is a common fault when the battery is a bit weak. It's worth fitting a 14v battery with high CCA (Cold Crank Amperage) to avoid this.
Smear all and any exposed electrical connectors with dielectric grease as you might have trouble with it in the wet otherwise. I did these to my RSVR and it was right as rain for the time I had it!
I also fitted a Scottoiler, which was the best thing I've ever done to a bike Laughing

You got yourself a bargain, I'm a bit jealous!
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mentalboy
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PostPosted: 21:48 - 22 Apr 2014    Post subject: Re: Just bought a RSV Mille for £1400 - What to look for? Reply with quote

GSTEEL32 wrote:

.... Is there anything in particular I should be keeping an eye on ?


Thieving cnuts!
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 22:07 - 22 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

IIRC it's a dry sump engine so changing the oil is not a simple procedure. I don't think its a hard task but it has a specific procedure that must be followed.
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MarkJ
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PostPosted: 22:54 - 22 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

As above, grease both bearings in the dogbone linkage and the lower bearing on the swingarm (where it attaches to the triangle shaped bracket), and keep the battery in tip top condition. If the engine kicks back it bangs against the sprag clutch (you'll know when this happens, it not a nice sound). If this happens too many times it knackers the sprag clutch and you need a new one. If you do, there's a BMW sprag you can fit that's cheaper than the Aprilia part, but the sprag is nestled away inside the engine so best not to have to do this job Thumbs Up

As Marjay said it's a dry sump, but still easy to do an oil change, you just drain the oil tank first, then the engine oil drain (next to the filter cap) then undo the filter cap and change the filter. The large oil filter O ring squashes quite easily and can start to dribble oil a bit so stick your hand down there and see if it's doing this. New O ring is a few quid off ebay. There's no washer between the main oil drain bolt and engine, so the torque setting is relatively low. No need to tighten it massively because then they're a real pain to undo again next time.

I think you also measure the engine oil with the engine running, and hot. Double check this though as my Mille is a track bike and gets an oil change before the levels get anywhere near low.

I always start the bike like so, to avoid the sprag getting a hammering:
In neutral
Clutch in
All lights off
Full 'choke' (fast idle)
No throttle

The engine is very lumpy low down, it should be smoother after 4-5k or so though. Most people just get a custom EPROM made rather than a PC
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CHR15
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PostPosted: 21:16 - 23 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

with the bike level, and the engine hot but not running, you want about 20-25mm of oil showing on the sight tube.

any more than that and it starts to blow it though the breather into the airbox.

if the battery goes low whilst cranking it resets the clocks, which includes defaulting the rev limiter to like 5.5k you adjust the limiter with the ignition on but engine not running.


the stock exhaust weighs eleventy billion kilos. aprilia did a titanium race can which is the same bore as the link pipe all the way through (rather than all the aftermarket ones which step the link pipe down to 2" and run a 2" bore can)


the rear brake does fuck all. this is normal.
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GSTEEL32
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PostPosted: 21:22 - 23 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

CHR15 wrote:


the rear brake does fuck all. this is normal.


Thank god for that.... I was thinking I was in for a weekend of reverse bleeding after attempting to use it this aft......
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MarkJ
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PostPosted: 22:02 - 23 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh aye the rear brake. You can sort this and have a fairly good rear brake if you unmount it and pull the brake line out of the guide it sits in under the swing arm. Then fasten it somehow (cable ties I think I used) to the seat subframe with the nipple at the highest point, then bleed the air out. Or get someone to hold it for you.
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Irezumi aka Reuben
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PostPosted: 01:00 - 24 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Really good forum here (although Mainly for Falco's which is what I have) https://www.ridersite.ws/rs/index.php?sid=65b3319326c1b8bea77ad579d14a3fc9

Essentially the same bike. Definately check the rear linkages/bearings. Just had to do mine and has cost a fair bit (Dont ever buy Aprilia stuff theres always a much cheaper way to get the exact same part).
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nerald
Borekit Bruiser



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PostPosted: 14:03 - 24 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check your brown connectors. Common on most of these era Apes.
https://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/showthread.php?262243-Brown-connector-replacement&highlight=brown+connectors

And fuel quick connectors.
https://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/showthread.php?54873-Aprilia-Fireball-Almost

Combine the 2 and you could end up with toast.
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Last edited by nerald on 14:08 - 24 Apr 2014; edited 1 time in total
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P.
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PostPosted: 14:06 - 24 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is that a carbon tail unit?
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chris-red
Have you considered a TDM?



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PostPosted: 14:53 - 24 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

MarJay wrote:
IIRC it's a dry sump engine so changing the oil is not a simple procedure. I don't think its a hard task but it has a specific procedure that must be followed.


My TDM is dry sump, the only 'special procedure' is that you have 2 drain bolts to undo.
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chris-red
Have you considered a TDM?



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PostPosted: 14:54 - 24 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paddy. wrote:
Is that a carbon tail unit?


And fairing infills. Looks like a steal. Thumbs Up
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Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.
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GSTEEL32
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PostPosted: 20:49 - 24 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

chris-red wrote:
Paddy. wrote:
Is that a carbon tail unit?


And fairing infills. Looks like a steal. Thumbs Up


I think a previous owner may have got a bit too busy with carbon laminate unfortunately ... I'll have all the fairings off this weekend and take all the advice above on board... thanks chaps...

Really happy with it so far.... though its completely unsuitable for filtering through 10 miles of standstill traffic on the A13 .... apologies if you've spent this week stuck behind me slowing you up....
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CHR15
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PostPosted: 20:52 - 24 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

GSTEEL32 wrote:
though its completely unsuitable for filtering through 10 miles of standstill traffic on the A13



lol why?
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MarkJ
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PostPosted: 21:09 - 24 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mille's are ace for filtering if you can get used to the riding style the standard boat anchor exhaust may be heavy, but it's pretty loud for standard. Like parting the red sea Thumbs Up
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GSTEEL32
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PostPosted: 22:01 - 24 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

CHR15 wrote:
GSTEEL32 wrote:
though its completely unsuitable for filtering through 10 miles of standstill traffic on the A13



lol why?


It doesn't like being under 30 mph for any period of time, nor does the cooling system seem to get on with a lot of low speed noncing about.....

...However, I've never been on a bike that feels so "planted" on the road when your giving it the coals, its un-believably smooth even on our crappy roads..... its also nothing like as top heavy as you'd think, I parked up next to an 848 Ducati this morning and it looked like the Ducati had shrunk in the wash.... it's a ridiculously good bike for the money...
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P.
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PostPosted: 22:08 - 24 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Filtering under 30mph? That isn't filtering. That is parked Laughing

Looks a steal with the carbon etc.
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devojunior
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PostPosted: 16:21 - 25 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

id love a big twin lik ethis, if it was me the wheels would come off aswell as swing arm and be powder coated gloss black for a clean stealth look,

its got a supersprox rear sprocket not cheap so id guess its had some love in its last few years.

keep us up dated not out dated like those pink levers.
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GSTEEL32
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PostPosted: 16:49 - 25 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

devojunior wrote:

its got a supersprox rear sprocket not cheap


As the germans say... was ist das ?
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chris-red
Have you considered a TDM?



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PostPosted: 17:10 - 25 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

GSTEEL32 wrote:
devojunior wrote:

its got a supersprox rear sprocket not cheap


As the germans say... was ist das ?


Tarty Rear Sprocket, alloy in the middle for lightweight steel on the teeth for long life.
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Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.
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