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The Artist |
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The Artist Super Spammer
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G The Voice of Reason
Joined: 02 Feb 2002 Karma :
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Posted: 19:53 - 17 Dec 2014 Post subject: Re: Recommend me some bike lights. |
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Do you mind getting a bit fiddly with some soldering?
What's your budget?
I would be tempted by something like this added to a cheap XM-L (ideally you want genuine U2 XM-L2s, but T6 XM-Ls are decent enough)... make sure it has a decent heatsink.
https://www.taskled.com/hboost.shtml
I'm tempted to get one his modules for one of my 12x LED torches (rewiring the torch to 12s to make full use of the amps if needed - it's currently 6S2p - 120W or so LED torch should be VERY bright.)
For easy, get a 7x T6 bike front light with battery.
For the record, XM-L and xM-L2 are the model of the LED, with L2 being the second version.
When they're made they're thrown in to 'bins' based upon how good they are (brightness per watt). The scale goes T4, T5, T6, U1, U2, U3 with U3 the brightest I believe.
Most you see are T6. Genuine U3s tend to be not worth the expense.
XM-L2 tend to be one step better, so a T6 XM-L2 would probably be similar output to a U1 XM-L. |
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The Artist |
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The Artist Super Spammer
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Posted: 20:14 - 17 Dec 2014 Post subject: Re: Recommend me some bike lights. |
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G wrote: | Do you mind getting a bit fiddly with some soldering?
What's your budget?
I would be tempted by something like this added to a cheap XM-L (ideally you want genuine U2 XM-L2s, but T6 XM-Ls are decent enough)... make sure it has a decent heatsink.
https://www.taskled.com/hboost.shtml
I'm tempted to get one his modules for one of my 12x LED torches (rewiring the torch to 12s to make full use of the amps if needed - it's currently 6S2p - 120W or so LED torch should be VERY bright.)
For easy, get a 7x T6 bike front light with battery.
For the record, XM-L and xM-L2 are the model of the LED, with L2 being the second version.
When they're made they're thrown in to 'bins' based upon how good they are (brightness per watt). The scale goes T4, T5, T6, U1, U2, U3 with U3 the brightest I believe.
Most you see are T6. Genuine U3s tend to be not worth the expense.
XM-L2 tend to be one step better, so a T6 XM-L2 would probably be similar output to a U1 XM-L. |
I would rather not have to make a decent waterproof housing for individual components.
I had a look for some XM-L2's and found this which seems like good value.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5000Lm-XM-L-2x-CREE-LED-Bicycle-bike-Light-Flashlight-HeadLight-Lamp-Battery-/261643221841?pt=UK_SportGoods_CyclAcces_RL&var=&hash=item3ceb26bb51 |
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G The Voice of Reason
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The Artist |
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Seb |
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Seb World Chat Champion
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G The Voice of Reason
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The Artist |
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KevTM |
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KevTM World Chat Champion
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G The Voice of Reason
Joined: 02 Feb 2002 Karma :
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Posted: 10:49 - 21 Dec 2014 Post subject: |
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I missed there was postage ontop of that price, actually. Price not quite so unreasonably cheap.
For a head torch, I'd go for one which has 2x18650s on the back and a red LED in that unit.
Althought the price has gone up slightly since I first looked at it, one of these is probably a good choice:
https://www.amazon.co.uk//dp/B00NMEFPDS/
Not as big reflectors, but two LEDs in a compact package and the read light, a good choice for head-mounting. |
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kramdra |
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kramdra World Chat Champion
Joined: 28 Oct 2010 Karma :
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Posted: 16:04 - 25 Dec 2014 Post subject: |
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People usually neglect the rear light which I consider far more important if riding in traffic at night, especially if Im commuting 20 miles on country roads in rain and fog. 3 little red leds are no good and flashing is shit. I want cars to think Im a motorbike (or car with a light out) and therefore slow down appropriately to leave the correct gap and plan overtakes properly.
And for front light, the amount of lumens is quite irrelevant if not in the correct places. Too much up close will make it difficult to see the small amount of light reaching the distance. A small H4 motorbike low beam housing with an XML swapped in would probaby give much more useful light than 7-xml-in-all-direction jobs.
I got these, very impressed so far. Plan to add a brake switch to alter the resistance on the driver circuit (xl6009) allowing maybe 2-3 watts normal, 12w while braking. Plan on adding a couple to my CBR6 as it has a habit of blowing rear bulbs. Ill probably put in top box for now. Also got some amber ones Ill be using for cbr6 indicators.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/291187146302
For a housing, glue the LED onto some alu sheet. Cut the back off a cheap rear light, and glue the sheet in (epoxy). Alu sheet also makes it relativity theft proof. To power it, using a 5v usb powerbank which allows me to charge easily at work. The lights bypass the 5v converter, and Ive got a small led voltmeter attached so I dont over-drain it. |
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Andy9934 |
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Andy9934 Nova Slayer
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Ste Not Work Safe
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Posted: 18:59 - 25 Dec 2014 Post subject: |
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G The Voice of Reason
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G The Voice of Reason
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cagiva gezzer World Chat Champion
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covent.gardens World Clap Champion
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 9 years, 122 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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