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| RhynoCZ |
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RhynoCZ
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 Posted: 22:06 - 22 Jun 2015  Post subject: |
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| djnomi wrote: | guys who are having YBR 125 EU version which is EFI what is its top speed and acceleration as this one is struggling in acceleration as well in top speed 
P.S - Yamaha also launching YBR 125G in OCT 2015 so lets see what they are upto in next year they have plan to launch almost 17 models and will localize 80% of their production. |
The first thing that you should understand is, that it is a 125cc, SOHC 2 valve head, single cylinder, four stroke, made to be cheap and reliable.
I'm looking at the latest YBR 125 for the EU market, and I can't even see an O2 sensor there. So the only advantage over a carburetor, would be the fuel efficiency, MPG if you will.
Long story short, I think yours is as good/fast as those that you could get in the EU. 
EU version (specs from Yamaha):
7.5 kW (10.0PS) @ 7 800 rpm
9.6 Nm (0.98 kg-m) @ 6 000 rpm
I'm not sure, but I wouldn't be surprised if the carbed version had a bit more power than the DFi version. I think they de-tuned the EU version, to meet the strict EU emissions regulations.
____________________
'87 Honda XBR 500, '96 Kawasaki ZX7R P1, '90 Honda CB-1, '88 Kawasaki GPz550, MZ 150 ETZ
'95 Mercedes-Benz w202 C200 CGI, '98 Mercedes-Benz w210 E200 Kompressor |
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| djnomi |
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djnomi
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Posted: 06:20 - 23 Jun 2015  Post subject: |
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| RhynoCZ wrote: | | djnomi wrote: | guys who are having YBR 125 EU version which is EFI what is its top speed and acceleration as this one is struggling in acceleration as well in top speed
P.S - Yamaha also launching YBR 125G in OCT 2015 so lets see what they are upto in next year they have plan to launch almost 17 models and will localize 80% of their production. |
The first thing that you should understand is, that it is a 125cc, SOHC 2 valve head, single cylinder, four stroke, made to be cheap and reliable.
I'm looking at the latest YBR 125 for the EU market, and I can't even see an O2 sensor there. So the only advantage over a carburetor, would be the fuel efficiency, MPG if you will.
Long story short, I think yours is as good/fast as those that you could get in the EU.
EU version (specs from Yamaha):
7.5 kW (10.0PS) @ 7 800 rpm
9.6 Nm (0.98 kg-m) @ 6 000 rpm
I'm not sure, but I wouldn't be surprised if the carbed version had a bit more power than the DFi version. I think they de-tuned the EU version, to meet the strict EU emissions regulations. |
thankyou for your input , AVG. fuel consumption is around 45 KM/L whereas no exact Acceleration/Torque specs are available from Yamaha website but as per my personal experience average acceleration is just ok but we already have CG 125 (Honda) which is indeed monster in this category  and YBR cant beat it. |
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| deadwolf |
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deadwolf
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| djnomi |
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djnomi
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| Posted: 08:43 - 23 Jun 2015 Post subject: |
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well lets see i dont think they will come with EFI coz it will increase cost of unit , in Pakistan CG 125 is most Fav brand and price is just 103,000 PKR (640 British pounds) whereas YBR 125 priced around 805 pounds. prices under 1200-1300 Pound will make sense, lets see what Yamaha is upto.
sharing CG 125 Pic
https://atlashonda.com.pk/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/poster-honda-cg-125.jpg |
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deadwolf
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| cdlxxvi |
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cdlxxvi
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talkToTheHat
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| Rogerborg |
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Rogerborg
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| Posted: 07:49 - 24 Jun 2015 Post subject: |
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Rubber bands are fine. They'd be finer if more bikes used them, because they'd be cheaper and more readily available.
The main problem is crud getting between the band and the pulley and damaging them. Enclosed rubber bands... 
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Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike |
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| djnomi |
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djnomi
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| RhynoCZ |
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RhynoCZ
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| Posted: 09:15 - 24 Jun 2015 Post subject: |
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Sports bike sound, if you mean like Moto 3 race bikes, then yes. Basically, if you get an open exhaust system, you get the noise. It won't give you any more power though and will possibly move the peak torque to higher revs.
The motorcycle won't be any faster, and your head's gonna hurt from all the noise, since you are going to ride it at high revs all the time.
If you don't want to invest any money, you can just drill the inside baffle/s out of the factory exhaust.
Check the youbook: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=ybr+125+open+exhaust
Not really a pleasant sound to have, I'd say.
An example of a drilled out baffle (YBR 125): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fMFqYlqBDNw
____________________
'87 Honda XBR 500, '96 Kawasaki ZX7R P1, '90 Honda CB-1, '88 Kawasaki GPz550, MZ 150 ETZ
'95 Mercedes-Benz w202 C200 CGI, '98 Mercedes-Benz w210 E200 Kompressor
Last edited by RhynoCZ on 09:27 - 24 Jun 2015; edited 2 times in total |
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andyscooter
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| djnomi |
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djnomi
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| Rogerborg |
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Rogerborg
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| Posted: 08:27 - 26 Jun 2015 Post subject: |
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I've tried standard and iridium plugs in several bikes without noticing any real difference. The main benefit of iridium is that they last longer. On a bike with an exposed plug, that's just not an issue. The downside is that if the plug gets fouled (and mine did) then cleaning it is problematical.
I'd stick with a properly gapped clean stock plug.
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Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike |
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| djnomi |
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djnomi
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| RhynoCZ |
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RhynoCZ
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| Posted: 11:59 - 26 Jun 2015 Post subject: |
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| djnomi wrote: | | Rogerborg wrote: | I've tried standard and iridium plugs in several bikes without noticing any real difference. The main benefit of iridium is that they last longer. On a bike with an exposed plug, that's just not an issue. The downside is that if the plug gets fouled (and mine did) then cleaning it is problematical.
I'd stick with a properly gapped clean stock plug. |
thankyou appreciated .. now coming to the fuel mixture i mean is there any ways we can increase acceleration by changing fuel mixture value + any other element? since i am not a mechanic myself but i visited some local mechanic he did some tappet adjustment and fuel mixture after this my bike petrol average is falling down quickly and i think only 5% increase in acceleration but bike is missing at high RPM . e.g at 5th gear if a try to cross 8000 RPM bike starts jerks what you suggest in this regards should i go back to stock settings and live with it |
No, the mixture won't help with acceleration really. It is wether perfect = there are no drops in the power band and the engine runs smooth, OR it's fecked up, and you will have drops in the power band, hesitation, rough idle etc.
To get better acceleration get a bigger rear sprocket or smaller front one. To understand the final drive gear ratio, imagine a mountain bike with multiple gears. A bit shorter final driver gear ratio will actually give you a bit more top speed as well. The thing is, when you're at the top gear now, can you really rev it up to the rev-limiter or does it feel like it won't get there? If so, then shorter final drive gear ratio = less effort required to spin the rear wheel.
CB-1 = short final drive ratio, top 195kph, very quickly vs. long final drive ratio, about 175kph, but the MPG got a lot better and it also didn't run as hot.
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'87 Honda XBR 500, '96 Kawasaki ZX7R P1, '90 Honda CB-1, '88 Kawasaki GPz550, MZ 150 ETZ
'95 Mercedes-Benz w202 C200 CGI, '98 Mercedes-Benz w210 E200 Kompressor |
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| djnomi |
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djnomi
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| moonzoomer |
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moonzoomer
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RhynoCZ
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| Posted: 09:36 - 01 Jul 2015 Post subject: |
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| moonzoomer wrote: | remove the inspection cover to check the chain tension, Jawa/CZ used cast Iron sprockets which do last a long time but not forever, they do need a drop of oil every now and then but if the original idea of Pertol/Oil mix is concerned they self lub via the tickle facility on the carb which was a bloody good idea and years ahead of the Scottoiler, Jawa made an major balls up the minute they used the useless Amal carbs over the Jikov ticklers. |
There was a auto chain lube system on 60's Jawa's, next to the front sprocket, there was a hole in the gearbox case with some sort of felt/foam in the hole, and the gearbox oil slowly leaked through that onto the chain. They only used it for a short period of time.
I'm not sure about the ticklers, but I know people used those though.
____________________
'87 Honda XBR 500, '96 Kawasaki ZX7R P1, '90 Honda CB-1, '88 Kawasaki GPz550, MZ 150 ETZ
'95 Mercedes-Benz w202 C200 CGI, '98 Mercedes-Benz w210 E200 Kompressor |
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| lincsrider |
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lincsrider
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| djnomi |
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djnomi
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| Wednesday Biker |
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Wednesday Biker
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| Posted: 20:30 - 28 Jul 2015 Post subject: |
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That looks better than the one I had.
Big problem areas on mine were the footpeg brackets,exhaust,shockers and swing arm which rusted quite badly.
But the enclosed chain and the exhaust and footpeg brackets are different on this one and don't look like they will be as big a problem.
Chain was very flimsy and rusted before your eyes if it even looked like raining
Speed wise I thought it was quite good.Not as quick as the yzf 125 but would do 70mph easily on the flat maybe 75 if it wasn't windy. Had 80mph down hill a few times. The clock probably wasn't that accurate but that's probably the case for most 125's
Nice bike, especially for £802 |
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| trevor saxe-coburg-gotha |
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trevor saxe-coburg-gotha
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| Posted: 05:59 - 02 Aug 2015 Post subject: |
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| Andy_Pagin wrote: | | RhynoCZ wrote: | Exactly the opposite, enclosed chains, if sealed up properly, last ages, at least on Jawa's do. |
Serious questions..
How long is 'ages'?
How do you know if the chain is lubed properly?
How do you check the slack? |
My mate's TR1 did 60k miles on its stock chain and sprockets, due entirely to the enclosed guard. Even then it had more life in it. Iirc, lubrication was via an aperture at the front end of the cover, and the lubricant itself was - curiously - a form of high temperature grease rather than a less viscous oil type substance. In the owners' handbook Yamaha expressly forbade the use of O or X ring chains - quite why is not clear, but may be something to do with the fact that, encased in its cover, the chain became much warmer than a conventional exposed kind. The extra heat would lead to excessive wear of the "rubber" components in O/X chains.
Aesthetically such covers are imo somewhat old fashioned in appearance - but in terms of brute practicality they are utterly unassailable and should be available as after market parts for any and every bike designed with some sort of "practical" all-year-round use in mind. I would guess that, with correct lubrication, the life expectancy of encased chain and sprockets is maybe ten times that of 'normal' ones.
How do you check the slack? Well, how do you check the wear of your front sprocket? Remove the cover and inspect it. There is no reason why the process with an enclosed chain guard should take too much longer.
On grounds of practicality, there is no particularly compelling argument against the enclosed design. It was merely felt that with the development of O and X types, chain life would be increased (and maintenance decreased) sufficiently to obviate the requirement for some sort of protective housing.
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Mobylette Type 50 ---> Raleigh Grifter ---> Neval Minsk 125 |
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Mark65
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deadwolf
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 8 years, 266 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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