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Nightmare of a brake problem - FZ6 S2

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Shinigami
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PostPosted: 16:21 - 02 Jul 2015    Post subject: Nightmare of a brake problem - FZ6 S2 Reply with quote

So, for a while i've been having issues with my rear brake, it's basicly chewing through pads in less than 1000 miles and doing so at an odd angle and uneven, also seems to be sticking occaisionally.

Now i've replaced the rota & pads, completely cleaned the fuck out of the caliper and pins, both slide pins baby smooth with 1500 grit sand paper (were ever so slightly rough) and greased them up.

Piston is pretty much spotless, no corrosion on it at all, with the caliper out and lever pressed then released the piston looks to retract a little though i've no idea how much it should.

Brake fluid also changed and lines bled.

Problem is still persisting today, went to feel the rota temperature and was red hot after little use of the rear, on centre stand it's clear it's not released the pads as it barely moves when try to spin it by hand

Any ideas? Next step i'm going to replace the seals on the piston maybe?

The caliper is a single pot nissin caliper
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Matt B
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PostPosted: 16:46 - 02 Jul 2015    Post subject: Re: Nightmare of a brake problem - FZ6 S2 Reply with quote

Shinigami wrote:
doing so at an odd angle and uneven, also seems to be sticking occaisionally


Would lead me to believe that something has been bent and is no longer lined up properly.

You need to work out a way of getting a couple of straight edges against the disc and the caliper or the mounting points and see.
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Shinigami
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PostPosted: 16:49 - 02 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

by occaisionally I don't mean in a single rotation, just on some days it seems to stick more than others, before I just changed the pads again most of the time it didn't feel like it was sticking at all but it must have to some extent to wear the pads so quickly..
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Matt B
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PostPosted: 16:53 - 02 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you stripped the caliper and removed the piston? Could be a mashed seal inside.
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Shinigami
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PostPosted: 16:59 - 02 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

i did a when it first started sticking but didn't notice anything obvious, I will have another look this weekend as won't have time to pull it all off and bleed it etc until then
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Copycat73
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PostPosted: 17:06 - 02 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

is there one of those spring steel anti rattle / hold the pads in the correct position things fitted to the caliper ..
so is it fitted correctly ..?
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 17:56 - 02 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Does the piston push back into the pot with finger pressure?

If not, replace the seals or at least get the fluid seal out and clean out the groove behind it. Although you might as well replace it if you're doing that.
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Shinigami
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PostPosted: 17:59 - 02 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Copycat73 wrote:
is there one of those spring steel anti rattle / hold the pads in the correct position things fitted to the caliper ..
so is it fitted correctly ..?


There is, and i'm pretty sure it's in the right way....
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Parson
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PostPosted: 18:57 - 02 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Seals sounds like the only thing left.

What kind of grease did you use on the pistons? Some types of grease will damage the seals. I spoke to one of the mechanics the local Suzuki dealers, rubber grease only on brake pistons. He gave me a wee dab recently when I was having isssues, a very helpful fellow.
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monkeybiker
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PostPosted: 19:05 - 02 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is the foot pedal stiff?
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Shinigami
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PostPosted: 19:11 - 02 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Parson wrote:
Seals sounds like the only thing left.

What kind of grease did you use on the pistons? Some types of grease will damage the seals. I spoke to one of the mechanics the local Suzuki dealers, rubber grease only on brake pistons. He gave me a wee dab recently when I was having isssues, a very helpful fellow.


red rubber grease

The piston is pretty tough to push back in, takes both hands and most of my strength (though I am a weakling)

Pushes in easy with a g clamp

i'll order some seals and see how that goes before some more serious damage/death occurs

cheers folks
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 19:53 - 02 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

It really does need to go back in smoothly and easily. Your disc isn't going to exert that much pressure. I mean, unless it's warped which would be a different issue. Wink
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Shinigami
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PostPosted: 21:10 - 02 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

new seals ordered Thumbs Up only £3 on wemoto so worth trying

https://radiomaxmusic2.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/seal.jpg

and I'll be riding the womans cbf125 into work until then Laughing Cool
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Matt B
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PostPosted: 10:46 - 03 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rogerborg wrote:
It really does need to go back in smoothly and easily.


Exactly this Thumbs Up

Pistons (both front and rear) should move back into a caliper with sustained pressure from your thumb or fingers. If it needs a clamp then you have a problem.
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Shinigami
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PostPosted: 21:39 - 04 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

so changed the seals but still happening. Still difficult to push the piston back in by hand again too...piston looks spotless though so no idea whats going on Sad if I push the caliper against the disk it pushes the piston back in enough to release the wheel again

anyone know any decent bike garages in manchester who know their shit with brakes?
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 22:04 - 04 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

When you do the seals you have to scrape all the crusty white oxide powder from the bottom of the seal groove or the new seals will grip the piston too tightly.
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Shinigami
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PostPosted: 22:08 - 04 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:
When you do the seals you have to scrape all the crusty white oxide powder from the bottom of the seal groove or the new seals will grip the piston too tightly.


didnt avtually see/notice any, gave it a bit of a clean out but nothing was white in there for sure, all black
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Shinigami
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PostPosted: 22:24 - 04 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

might have another go and give the grooves a scrape out to be sure before I take it somewhere
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Val
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PostPosted: 22:26 - 04 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shinigami wrote:

anyone know any decent bike garages in manchester who know their shit with brakes?


You can post your calipers for professional rebuild:

https://www.powerhouseautomotive.co.uk/content/motorcycle-brakes/motorcycle-brake-caliper-refurbishment-service.php

Shinigami wrote:
might have another go and give the grooves a scrape out to be sure before I take it somewhere


Honestly I am not sure how good idea is to rebuild your caliper yourself.

I would not do that. What can go wrong... erm no brakes or even worst locking wheel on the motorway.
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 22:45 - 04 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

If they are anodised callipers they will not have corrosion in the seal groves (but plenty of dirt, brake fluid residue)

Do not scrape them with anything metallic. Match sticks work well.
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LongJohn22
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PostPosted: 23:03 - 04 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

kramdra wrote:
If they are anodised callipers they will not have corrosion in the seal groves (but plenty of dirt, brake fluid residue)

Do not scrape them with anything ferrous. Match sticks work well.


Fixed. Brass wire brush in a Dremel is awesome.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 23:13 - 04 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Anodised calipers rot as well. It just takes longer.
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Shinigami
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PostPosted: 01:18 - 05 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

LongJohn22 wrote:
kramdra wrote:
If they are anodised callipers they will not have corrosion in the seal groves (but plenty of dirt, brake fluid residue)

Do not scrape them with anything ferrous. Match sticks work well.


Fixed. Brass wire brush in a Dremel is awesome.


I actually have exactly that Thumbs Up cordless too, will give that a go
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 10:28 - 05 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:
Anodised calipers rot as well. It just takes longer.


Only if the anodise gets scratched.. This will never normally happen.

Dirt does not easily stick to anodise, very easy to clean. I consider lack of anodised callipers/pistons a good reason not to buy a bike Thumbs Up
13 years, 60k miles, no sign of rot... Anodised pistons also perfect condition - like new, unscratched. I admit the outside, calliper body looks a bit shit..
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Shinigami
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PostPosted: 15:18 - 05 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cleaned it out, seals sitting nicely flush, was able to push piston in by hand, pooped straight in all the way down once past the seals. Rebled and refitted.....

...still binding. What the fuck. I'm just gonna set the bike on fire instead I think
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