Honda XL125 RC (Kit Form)!! Now With Added Sheep Worrying

[Suntan Sid]

I managed to sort my gearbox problem, details here:-

https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=307704

Got everything back together, including new oil, took it out for a 30 mile bimble yesterday everything is working as it should, although I'll have to back off the rear brake a bit, it's very sharp at the moment.

I've been increasing the revs every hundred miles, I'm up to 8000 rpm now which is just 500rpm short of the sweet spot.  It doesn't feel as sluggish as it did and pulls well from 5.5k, it still struggles up hills but it's not as bad as it was, now I can rev it a bit more.

I'm enjoying riding it, mainly because you have to put more thought and effort into it to maintain a decent speed, than you do on a bigger bike!

I still need to get the front forks sorted, discussed here:-

https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=306647

I'm waiting on some new for oil, I'm going to try some 2.5W fork oil and see how that goes, and top up with some air, need a low pressure gauge though!
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"Everybody needs money, that's why they call it money!"

[Suntan Sid]

Well AFAIC the bike is now run in!

However there has been a niggling problem, it was always very difficult to start, from cold.
The first time I kick it over nothing, leave it for a couple of minutes, kick it again and it fires then dies, leave it for another couple of minutes kick it again and it runs for a few more seconds then dies, repeating this process will, on the 4th or 5th attempt, get it running and idling.

I always thought it was running a bit rich, not much, but to me the plug colour was too dark!
Today I got the carb off to have a look at it, it's the original carb with a rebuild kit fitted, so everything, jets etc. are as standard.
I found the problem almost straight away, the needle clip was in the wrong position, too rich, , in my defence I had got the clip position from the internet, I should have looked at the manual!

Anyway, I put the carb back together, put it back on the bike, it started first kick, from stone cold!

There is, however, something that is still perplexing me, something that was happening before I set the carb correctly and is still happening now.
The choke doesn't have any affect on rpm!
Although the bike now starts, with the choke on, it still only reaches normal idling speed!
If I put the choke on once the engine's warm it stalls straight away!
Is this good, bad or indifferent?
Every vehicle I have ever owned, (both bikes and cars), that has had a manual choke, would run at a higher rpm with the choke on!

Did I miss the memo, is this normal on this type of engine, with this carb?
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"Everybody needs money, that's why they call it money!"

[buaan]

Awesome rebuild - Enjoyed reading it
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2007 - KTM 990 Adventure

[Fizzer Thou]

Some carbs have a choke mechanism that lifts the needle slightly and so raises the RPM.My XR400R has no such thing but my FZR-R does.
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Just talk bikes.What else is there?

Always have a 'Plan B'

[geordie1234]

Just read this thread from back to front

Outstanding workmanship
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[Suntan Sid]

Mini update:-

Came back from 6 weeks away and thought I'd try starting her up.
Same problem as before, a right PITA to start, wouldn't fire on the kickstart, I got it going, in the end, bumping it.
When bumping it, numerous times , I noticed that if I bumped it with no throtle it wouldn't fire, if I bumped it with a bit of throttle still it wouldn't fire.  If I bumped it with some throttle then let go of the throttle it would fire.
To me that says that fuel was not getting through properly.
I did get it going and went out for a 20 mile ride, all good!

This morning I tried kick starting it, no joy, it did, however, fire up on the first bump start.
Anyway, all this got me thinking about the fuel pipe and inline fuel filter.
AFAIK the ID of the fuel pipe should be 6mm, (1/4"), using a drill bit to measure, it turns out the fuel pipe on the bike was 5mm ID.
I've just fitted 6mm fuel pipes!
The bike started first kick, although this may be because it had been started earlier in the day, once running the idle speed had increased by 300rpm.  Of course all this might be a rose tinted view of a repair and nothing has changed.
Changing from a 5 to 6mm pipe is a 44% increase in volume, not sure what effect, if any this would have!

Regarding the forks, I ordered some 2.5W oil, which seems to have sorted things out at the front, I also backed off quite a bit of preload on the rear shock both these adjustments have made the ride a lot better.

I haven't got time, at the moment, to fit the bigger bore engine I rebuilt, that will have to wait until autumn I'm afraid!
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"Everybody needs money, that's why they call it money!"

[stevo as b4]

You fit your big bore engine, and I'll do my 200cc big bore as a sister bike, as well as you'll be giving me some enthusiasm for pulling mine apart if you do.

Saying that if I could spend 6months in Cyprus then unless I could take the XL with me, (ideal bike) id forget all about it and concentrate on sun, swimming, and beer!

[Suntan Sid]