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HELP - NEED TO GET THIS ENGINE PAINTED

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TCalYen
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Joined: 03 Apr 2024
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PostPosted: 16:39 - 03 Apr 2024    Post subject: HELP - NEED TO GET THIS ENGINE PAINTED Reply with quote

Hi Everyone…

There is so much fluff on the internet… it’s annoying.

I’m ready to paint the engine on my Suzuki m109r while it’s on the bike and I’m very nervous about what paint to use.

The paint will be satin black and will not be the super high temp paint used on exhaust applications. Paint will be in the 5-600 temperature range.

Does anyone have any recent experience with any of these aerosol (spray can) engine paints?

Any help and suggestions appreciated…!
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 17:58 - 03 Apr 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Simonize engine enamel is very forgiving. As is plastikote bbq paint.

Be aware both remain fairly soft until they've had a few heat cycles to cure them properly.
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Bhud
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PostPosted: 18:57 - 03 Apr 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had a go at this when rebuilding an engine last year. I suggest reading the TDS sheet carefully, because some of these engine enamel/paints require the part to be baked, for the paint to adhere properly. And the petrol resistance isn't that great (I used Hycote).
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MCN
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PostPosted: 19:18 - 03 Apr 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the parts are aluminium, it will need an acid etch primer.

It will refuse to stick if you prime untreated aluminium.

And make sure all the wee dings are removed before painting.

Last engine I painted was my BSA C12. But that's has a cast iron block and head.
The paint is still on it. Shocked

Halfords Engine enamel black.
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TCalYen
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PostPosted: 19:23 - 03 Apr 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the input. The engine is aluminum but I did not take it down to bare metal…

Another question is should I use a primer? I won’t be able to sand if I do because everything is taped up and cleaning after sanding the primer would likely ruin the tape adhesion.

Should I prime and just not sand… then paint?
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MCN
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PostPosted: 20:25 - 03 Apr 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

TCalYen wrote:
Thanks for the input. The engine is aluminum but I did not take it down to bare metal…

Another question is should I use a primer? I won’t be able to sand if I do because everything is taped up and cleaning after sanding the primer would likely ruin the tape adhesion.

Should I prime and just not sand… then paint?


Always prime.

Proper primer helps the top coat bond.
If the original paint has come off has been compromised by salt/water ingress expect to be disappointed.
Corrosion creeps in between paint and metal.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 21:05 - 03 Apr 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Both Simonize and plastikote BBQ go onto bare alloy fine without primer and stays put. Both do need to get hot to properly cure.

A hot running iquid cooled engine seems fine for curing the plastikote BBQ to cure, did Mrs stinkwheels CB500 crankcase covers with it onto bare alloy. This it the clutch cover three years later. Rubbed by her boot but still good.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczMZhHDHFT-EneaouZ89LabXT_AI7wmc5TGKVlKRcx7Kvj5VFjMXTNI-HPCerbpuxuXWxgTzIBWf9yjvs-KdJlt6KPzTPJlYGtOBMNwasKzFPXRfOpiO5s4FdfrxJ6K9QrfHrmN4rvhu7BmPGNZEmzDJ=w1160-h870-s-no

Did my whole Minsk 125 engine with the simonize engine enamel onto bare alloy. High tem on the crankcase, VHT on the barrel and head. I did bake these off in an oven though.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczNN-JJUC33eEukxSQ8ar4rntaIi12vI2p9k-qVcDmtBaSlXPYyK38e1-fv0aIdBvK161LkRj9h0NSgJ317xwgXAThBTL5sMSgXSd2UWxAfmYof63j6T0i6NhvJgEKfQjRKsvEm6ois9O75Cey_3dZdj=w1547-h870-s-no

I did the crankcase covers on my VFR with tractol machine enamel direct onto bare alloy.
Before:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczPPoYRZFSRYJoUg6FRJ7CxR7WVF2zWcjIxtUeq94ch1wquYhuzE-uutsfywJTZBP2J3nKFA4Xe8q5VrG79cSR4O0dWPrDo1DnSgSOr-ZvzP_eU9E2imjURfIeRMjSx6JSJeuY5wZ1rXDb7IhzSktoFe=w1547-h870-s-no

After (the stuff on the inspection cover is ceramic grease from assembly).
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczNU-xvXq5Z9xfPC9yi5TzQ7R-mjjojY8EjjxUE2aQwNQDNySQArr_GKoOuft2iX8UjbcqBNb5sUBxNfGedwQQVITjYCrzuBXddZgTW-8gWxeZw6h0hQMaJzR9xXA4-oTZTg9aHCra9dG7mOLU3jCchI=w1547-h870-s-no

All finishes holding up well.
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 23:28 - 03 Apr 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used satin silver radiator paint from B&Q on a CX engine and it stood up pretty damn well for a few years until I sold the bike.
I've not known a liquid cooled engine case to get much over 100C-212F if that. but it's possible the areas around the exhaust headers may get locally hotter.
Air cooled? dunno,
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A100man
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PostPosted: 09:55 - 04 Apr 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

WD Forte wrote:

I've not known a liquid cooled engine case to get much over 100C-212F if that. but it's possible the areas around the exhaust headers may get locally hotter.


Quite, oil/fuel resistance more important than temp tolerance in most cases (exhausts excepted)
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 11:13 - 04 Apr 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another tip.
It all looks great at first and if you want to keep it that way
don't use the bike.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 19:47 - 04 Apr 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

WD Forte wrote:
Another tip.
It all looks great at first and if you want to keep it that way
don't use the bike.


/\

This post is helpful.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 19:52 - 04 Apr 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

You may be OK to.paint on aluminium but the surface oxidises as soon as you stop sanding it.
The oxide is not stable.
I etch before prime as that means you can't blame your prep for poor results.
95% of a good result is due to good prep.

This applies to secks too.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 22:49 - 04 Apr 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

MCN wrote:

The oxide is not stable.


Yes it is.

Aluminium oxide is incredibly stable, totally insoluable, extremely hard (9 Mohs, one below diamond) and very tightly adhered to the base metal. Aluminium metal is very reactive, the only reason it doesn't totally dissolve when exposed to air is because it forms a stable, mostly colourless and tightly adhered oxide layer almost instantaneously when the metal is exposed. It's why you have to stainless brush alumimnium immediately before welding/soldering it.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Bhud
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PostPosted: 00:21 - 05 Apr 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:

Yes it is.

Aluminium oxide is incredibly stable, totally insoluable, extremely hard (9 Mohs, one below diamond) and very tightly adhered to the base metal. Aluminium metal is very reactive, the only reason it doesn't totally dissolve when exposed to air is because it forms a stable, mostly colourless and tightly adhered oxide layer almost instantaneously when the metal is exposed. It's why you have to stainless brush alumimnium immediately before welding/soldering it.


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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 13:15 - 05 Apr 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wasnt at skool the day they did alchemy

Im aware of the duller reactive layer on ally but what is that
white powdery shite that seems to eat it away?
You often see it lifting Powder coating,paint and on long neglected casings

why do dat happen?
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A100man
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PostPosted: 14:24 - 05 Apr 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

WD Forte wrote:
I wasnt at skool the day they did alchemy

Im aware of the duller reactive layer on ally but what is that
white powdery shite that seems to eat it away?
You often see it lifting Powder coating,paint and on long neglected casings

why do dat happen?


Dats the ally rust/oxide. usualy happens due to damaged paint and powder coat (chips) letting the (salty) water in.. If you paint/coating is proper good it won't happen but shit paint and primer is porous and so..

Normal rainwated ain't too bad so aluminium 'rust' on windows and greenhouses is light. Power coat, e.g. on wheels that traps salty moisture under, is the worst I think..

or that could all be bollox. Eh?
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Last edited by A100man on 09:38 - 06 Apr 2024; edited 1 time in total
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TCalYen
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PostPosted: 20:32 - 05 Apr 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks everyone! Well I went ahead and painted it last night using Raptor 1k and am not happy with the color… I hope it gets duller because it was supposed to be satin. Should have went with PS1 which is said to match the Suzuki satin engine casings well. I’ll live with it though.

I’m trying to add a pic but it’s not working for some reason.

My bike is a liquid cooled m109r
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



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PostPosted: 22:30 - 05 Apr 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

There are different forms of aluminium oxide and the presence of salt solution makes a different crystaline structure which isn't well adhered. It's been a long time since I studied this but I believe chloride spectator ions are to blame.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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A100man
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PostPosted: 09:42 - 06 Apr 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

TCalYen wrote:

My bike is a liquid cooled m109r


Pale

https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/d/d9/Suzuki_Boulevard_M109R_blue.jpg
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 10:05 - 06 Apr 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh!

Aah

Umm..........................

I do believe that's 1999 Rover 600
I wonder if it's the 1850 or the 2.3
the better ones had the Honda Accord engines of course...
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A100man
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PostPosted: 12:37 - 06 Apr 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

WD Forte wrote:
Oh!

Aah

Umm..........................

I do believe that's 1999 Rover 600
I wonder if it's the 1850 or the 2.3
the better ones had the Honda Accord engines of course...


A Rover 200 surely. The 600 was a saloon only IIRC..
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Islander
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PostPosted: 12:42 - 06 Apr 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

MCN wrote:
You may be OK to.paint on aluminium but the surface oxidises as soon as you stop sanding it.
The oxide is not stable.
I etch before prime as that means you can't blame your prep for poor results.
95% of a good result is due to good prep.

This applies to secks too.


Just to add my 2p worth, alumina is very stable and very hard. Telescope mirrors are surface silvered by vacuum deposition of aluminium metal and that surface is very delicate for the first few months until a fine layer of alumina forms on the surface.

It's also used as an abrasive for tumbling and polishing rocks and metals. Tough stuff.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 13:26 - 06 Apr 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

A100man wrote:


A hole is a hole but even I have standards.
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Bhud
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PostPosted: 15:33 - 06 Apr 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ah, repainting the engine makes sense then. As the weather improves, the choice is to ride around on that thing in public, or fuck around with it at home where nobody can see you.
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