125 clutch won’t disengage

[Farmingstock]

Got a KX125 bought as a none runner with burnt out clutch, got a new clutch fitted and an managed to get it started, fitted the clutch exactly how it is in the manual, yet when in gear it won’t disengage and the cable is far to tight, loosened it as much as I can even taken off the lever tightened and it’s still too tight.

When I unhook the cable it will disengage the clutch, the lever on the basket looks fine and points as it should, I’m thinking the plates are too thick and I may need a different clutch cable to compensate?

Any ideas?

[Nobby the Bastard]

[Farmingstock]

It’s been installed exactly how it is in the manual, exactly the same as the YouTube videos I’ve watched?

[Nobby the Bastard]

You may think it is installed correctly but it clearly isn't. You don't adjust clutches by changing the cable.
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trevor saxe-coburg-gotha:"Remember this simple rule - scooters are for men who like to feel the breeze on their huge, flapping cunt lips."
Sprint ST 1050

[Farmingstock]

Yeah, not sure how it can be fitted incorrectly when it’s fitted exactly the same way as it shows in the manual?

Most parts can only be fitted one way? It came as a none runner without the clutch working so may have been an issue all along!

Washers are in the right place, plates are in the right place, bolts and springs same as all diagrams and photos!

Easy to say must be fit wrong, instead of plates, may be to thick, cable might be incorrect, or to suggest a helpful way of checking anything!

I thought that was what a forum is for?

[Nobby the Bastard]

FFS, brand new plates being too thick?

They are made for the fucking bike, as is the cable!

If the cable wasn't the issue before the clutch rebuild, it isn't now.
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trevor saxe-coburg-gotha:"Remember this simple rule - scooters are for men who like to feel the breeze on their huge, flapping cunt lips."
Sprint ST 1050

[Farmingstock]

Again

Bought the bike as a none runner with burnt out clutch in bits, no idea of whether the cable is right? Clutch is for the bike but not oem as not available

[Nobby the Bastard]

Too thick plates would mean you couldnt disengage the clutch, so you can throw that cockamamy idea away immediately.
____________________
trevor saxe-coburg-gotha:"Remember this simple rule - scooters are for men who like to feel the breeze on their huge, flapping cunt lips."
Sprint ST 1050

[Farmingstock]

Ok, finally a helpful response, I’ve changed the handle bar clutch lever to the other one the bike came with, there was a new one which I fitted and an old snapped one. The clutch works fine with the old snapped lever on.

[blurredman]

It is possible new plates could be too thick. Does it specify in the manual what their thickness could be compared to what you have? Just a few tenths of a mm thicker plate times 5 or 6 can make a big difference all added up when stacked.
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CBT: 12/06/10, Theory: 22/09/10, Module 1: 09/11/10, Module 2: 19/01/11
Past: 1991 Honda CG125BR-J, 1992 (1980) Honda XL125S, 1996 Kawasaki GPZ500S.
Current: 1973 MZ ES250/2 - 17k, 1979 Suzuki TS185ER - 9k, 1981 Honda CX500B - 91k, 1987 MZ ETZ250 (295cc) - 38k, 1989 MZ ETZ251 - 49k.

[Nobby the Bastard]

So you fitted the wrong part, namely the lever.
____________________
trevor saxe-coburg-gotha:"Remember this simple rule - scooters are for men who like to feel the breeze on their huge, flapping cunt lips."
Sprint ST 1050

[Farmingstock]

[Nobby the Bastard]

You didn't say youd changed the lever. Missing information.

Did you check that the lever was exactly the same size as the broken one (apart from the obviously snapped off bit)?
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trevor saxe-coburg-gotha:"Remember this simple rule - scooters are for men who like to feel the breeze on their huge, flapping cunt lips."
Sprint ST 1050

[Farmingstock]

The part of the lever that the cable goes into is further away and at a longer angle on the new lever, which will account for the cable stretch, the cable is still tight and at its longest setting, but it works now. It’s a 1986 bike so parts are not the easiest to come by!

I have found an OG cable which I’ve ordered, just in case the one that’s on it is wrong, there are a few other things that have been put on the bike that are wrong, exhaust, random bolts, etc. would make a good project for someone that wants to restore a classic!

[Easy-X]

TBF I've had a few times where the cable has fucked things up. I would suggest you can't go wrong with visually inspecting clutch disengagement. i.e. oil out, pull the side panel and see the clutch pack moves as you work the lever. If there's an external clutch arm you can get to can you whack on some mole grips to bypass the cable?
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Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[pdg]

I am so very confused by this entire thread...

When a clutch is engaged the engine is connected to the gearbox and it drives.

When a clutch is disengaged the engine is disconnected - you can sit in gear with the engine running etc.


A cable being too tight (incorrect cable or incorrect lever) may cause the clutch to be permanently disengaged.

Plates being too thick may cause the clutch to be permanently engaged even when you pull the lever (i.e. tighten the cable).

They cause exact opposite problems, yet both have been postulated as the cause



I'm intrigued enough to say - what?.
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Any and all advice given should not be followed - if you have to ask it means you don't know so get a man in to do it for you.