oil change

[to v or not to v]

my annual mileage is below 1000. do i need to change the oil filter along with the oil at the yearly service? it seems wasteful for the small amount of usage its had.
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current bike Yamaha Thunderace.
its old and fat, but its a damned good ride. the bikes not bad either.

[pdg]

Depends...

If you're following manufacturer recommendations on a newer bike because warranty/history/convention/resale, then follow what it says regarding mileage/time (whichever occurs soonest).

If it's a middle age runabout with no eye to resale and unlikely to be a "future classic", then I'd be judging it on the oil - if it's clean and good I'd leave it for a couple of changes, if I bothered changing the oil at all if it's that good. Modern (since about 1986 ) oils are good for at least a few thousand miles and a fair few years as long as it's not ridden hard and put up wet.

Really old engines that sit for months on end and are only used high days and holidays - oil flush and change before putting away, way overfilled, then new oil and filter at the commencement of each riding period.
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Any and all advice given should not be followed - if you have to ask it means you don't know so get a man in to do it for you.

[A100man]

[MCN]

[WD Forte]

The YZF1000R service chart I looked at said new oil filter every 8000 miles, so I wouldn't swap it out at <1000 unless I felt it needed it.

My reference you may find it useful

https://maintenanceschedule.com/yamaha-yzf1000r-thunderace-maintenance/#about-the-yamaha-yzf1000r-thunderace
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bikers smell of wee

[stinkwheel]

The way I see it is oil is to lubricate, the filter is to remove particulates. The lubrication properties of the oil is a function of both mileage and time. The production of particulates is a function of mileage alone.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[MCN]

There are many health goorooz that spout about oil.
Mostly from anecdotal Hoccus-Poccus.
Evidence Based Data is a good place to begin.

Previously Planned maintenance was based on failure rate.
Engineers collected data, calculations were made and recommendations published.

Stuff changes and the data evolves.
Now we see servicing at 20000 miles.
Condition Based Servicing.
That saves costs, time and resources.
CBS has been in place for many years now and there is no evidence to suggest that it is flawed.
Using good quality oil and filters help ensure things behave as predicted.

We have pickups with 1500000 kilometres on the engines and transmission.
Used in +50°C desert conditions. (Mostly motorway)
They don't run like new but they don't often crater either.
We change oil and filters at 10k km. just for shits and guggles.
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Disclaimer: The comments above may be predicted text and not necessarily the opinion of MCN.

[WD Forte]

That MCN sed
"We have pickups with 1500000 kilometres on the engines and transmission.
Used in +50°C desert conditions. (Mostly motorway)"

Motorway?, yeah right, mortarway more like

https://imgur.com/YiuuL4M.jpg
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bikers smell of wee

[MCN]

[MCN]

Posted twice as.much shite as required.
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Disclaimer: The comments above may be predicted text and not necessarily the opinion of MCN.

[doggone]

If it is kept in a dry garage it should be fine left 2 or 3 years with very low mileage.
I have two similar and tend to do them every other year.
It also depends how you use them, if low mileage is result of typically only doing say 2 miles to work it won't be getting hot enough to expel moisture, but if you tend to do half a dozen 50 mile day trips that is generally better for them IMO.

[to v or not to v]

the bike is kept in an internal garage and only taken on longish joyrides in excess of 1 hour.
i use quality service parts. Motul oil waiting to go in this service.
and only covered about 600 miles last year.
____________________
current bike Yamaha Thunderace.
its old and fat, but its a damned good ride. the bikes not bad either.

[Pete.]

There's no way I would change the oil based on time, not with modern oils anyway.
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a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good

[MCN]

A minor concern is atmospheric air reaching parts inside the engine/transmission that are not painted parts.
Regular started replaces oil coating.
Oil eventually runs off and displaced by condensation that forms during warm-cold climatic cycles.
If you were to open an casing that's been stored for a few months unprotected, there is a good possibility that surface rust will be visible.
When we 'long-term' store engines, we run the engine to warm and mix the oil. Drop the oil. Replace the filter. Refill the engine with oil mixed with VCI Volatile Corrosion Inhibitors additive. We go pedant and remove valve covers ,side doors, and spray those compartments with the same mix. Open inlet manifolds, aftercoolers and exhaust manifold and spray inside. Then bung all vents with air tight plugs. Tag the engine with reactivation instructions for when it comes out of storage.
That's to prevent moisture in atmospheric air doing its thing.

Putting a good bike cover over a bike in a garage will help as a moisture barrier.
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Disclaimer: The comments above may be predicted text and not necessarily the opinion of MCN.

[blurredman]

I don't do it often other than mileage now too. Cars, bikes included.

Didn't change the CX oil for 4 years, just kept topping it up with old oil from the car.
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CBT: 12/06/10, Theory: 22/09/10, Module 1: 09/11/10, Module 2: 19/01/11
Past: 1991 Honda CG125BR-J, 1992 (1980) Honda XL125S, 1996 Kawasaki GPZ500S.
Current: 1973 MZ ES250/2 - 17k, 1979 Suzuki TS185ER - 9k, 1981 Honda CX500B - 91k, 1987 MZ ETZ250 (295cc) - 38k, 1989 MZ ETZ251 - 49k.

[MCN]

A minor concern is atmospheric air reaching parts inside the engine/transmission that are not painted parts.
Regular started replaces oil coating.
Oil eventually runs off and displaced by condensation that forms during warm-cold climatic cycles.
If you were to open an casing that's been stored for a few months unprotected, there is a good possibility that surface rust will be visible.
When we 'long-term' store engines, we run the engine to warm and mix the oil. Drop the oil. Replace the filter. Refill the engine with oil mixed with VCI Volatile Corrosion Inhibitors additive. We go pedant and remove valve covers ,side doors, and spray those compartments with the same mix. Open inlet manifolds, aftercoolers and exhaust manifold and spray inside. Then bung all vents with air tight plugs. Tag the engine with reactivation instructions for when it comes out of storage.
That's to prevent moisture in atmospheric air doing its thing.

Putting a good bike cover over a bike in a garage will help as a moisture barrier.
____________________
Disclaimer: The comments above may be predicted text and not necessarily the opinion of MCN.