Tip on raising the idle speed

[loply]

Hi folks,

I don't know the exact ins and outs but one thing that I have noticed benefits me a lot on my SZR660 and my SV650 is setting the idle speed a lot higher than stock. I'd like to share this theory with the forum.

I run these bikes at 2,250rpm and 2,600rpm respectively.

I find this makes a massive difference to rideability - On the SV, changing down into first or second for a junction or tight roundabout used to require absolutely sublime throttle control and even then it was a jerky, off-putting afair most of the time. If an unexpected event induced a downshift you had better be on your toes or else it's pogo time.

With the idle speed raised you can bang down into first or second approaching a junction and pretty much let the clutch drop - The higher idle speed means the new gear engages practically without being noticed and feels surreal at first, but is very pleasant.

Changing gears in both directions feels smoother and there is far less play in the transmission.

This avoids sudden distractions and unsettled suspension.

In my oppinion definately worth trying - Just to see if you like it.

On most bikes there is a philips screw on the left hand side of the engine somewhere which changes the idle.



Be aware of the obvious downside being rapid heating when stationary, but I've never found it to be a problem.
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Yamaha SZR660 Caution to the wind, the throttle pinned!

[Ted]

Plus it'll use a tad more petrol...
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'07 Honda CBF500 / '93 Vauxhall Astra (www.fb.com/2wdOffRoader) / '04 Vauxhall Movano
Projects: '81 Honda CX500 x2 / '85 Land Rover One-Ten / ...plus many horticultural things.
||| Bike Test: DAS: PASSED 13/02/2009 ||| Car Test: PASSED 22/05/2005 |||

[Blau Zedong]

Raising your idle speed isn't a good idea. It'll bray the crap off your engine at startup from cold, and as above waste fuel. Also a bike honking away at 2000 rpm would bug the shit out of me.
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18:54:48 Rob Fzs: jews don't give away stuff for free

18:54:59 Rob Fzs: unless its their clothes/ hair/ golden teeth

[colin1]

i also like raising the idle speed of my bike

it makes it much smoother and easier to ride

with mine, i do it, by adjusting the throttle barrel adjuster
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colin1 is officially faster than god

[loply]

The engine runs at that speed on choke when cold anyway so it doesn't make a difference to startup running.

Fuel economy is unlikely to be affected as the amount of time you spend at idle speed is very small and with the difference will be almost immeasurable. Obviously once you open the throttle it makes no difference what the idle speed was.

The noise factor can be annoying but I run standard exhausts so it isn't too bad.
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Yamaha SZR660 Caution to the wind, the throttle pinned!

[MattEMulsion]

Each to their own but I'm perfectly happy with mine at the standard setting. Besides manufacturers wouldn't have a standard setting if there wasn't a benefit from it being at that particular level surely?
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Yamaha YZF-R6

[Ted]

I think I've set mine to lower than the manufacturer's default, mainly because it sounds better on tickover!
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'07 Honda CBF500 / '93 Vauxhall Astra (www.fb.com/2wdOffRoader) / '04 Vauxhall Movano
Projects: '81 Honda CX500 x2 / '85 Land Rover One-Ten / ...plus many horticultural things.
||| Bike Test: DAS: PASSED 13/02/2009 ||| Car Test: PASSED 22/05/2005 |||

[loply]

Hey, don't knock it till you've tried it... Seriously, it makes certain things a lot smoother.

...Besides, GP bikes run like 3,000rpm tick-overs... As do 98 R1's.
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Yamaha SZR660 Caution to the wind, the throttle pinned!

[wristjob]

the reason for high idle speeds on race engines is usually high lift/long duration cams that will only run at xrpm and will produce power at x10 rpm.
a low reving twin will have nothing to gaian from a high idle .
apart from if the rider cant adjust his/her revs for downshifts or is an idiot and stalls all the time trying to get moving.
98r1 idle is less than 1000rpm.

[G]

I ran my race sv650 with a 3500rpm idle speed or so (yes, that's over 1/3rd revs!)

However, I've never really seen the need on the road.
On track you are changing down under very hard braking, so it takes a bit of concentration to get a blip perfect, so this helps stop the rear wheel skipping.

On the road I just make sure I blip the throttle appropriately and never really had a problem - it is something you do have to think about a bit if you're not used to doing it, however.

Also, the slower idle speeds lets you get it sliding more easily for bits of little backing-it-in style fun if you so desire .

[Kickstart]

[loply]

G, I would trust your oppinion on the subject so can I ask what modifications or findings you made when racing the SV in Minitwin?

I ask as I'm going to be prepping one for it over the winter (probably not the one this thread is about).

My basic plan was just the obvious stuff - new shock, new fork springs, drop the forks and raise the idle speed and pegs... It's the not so obvious tips and tidbits I'm on the lookout for.
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Yamaha SZR660 Caution to the wind, the throttle pinned!

[DEN MONKEY]

Ive raised mine abit and also find it more friendly in stop start conditions as well.
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meh

[G]

[loply]

Thanks for that g, useful note on the throttle grip, bungs and clipons.

If you find out what kind of bungs were on that bike let me know!

Cheers.
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Yamaha SZR660 Caution to the wind, the throttle pinned!

[veeeffarr]

[colin1]

i bet they brake a lot harder before a corner than most people do on an emergency stop
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colin1 is officially faster than god

[veeeffarr]

[G]

[veeeffarr]

[G]

[sickpup]

There is no need for a high idle except on race bikes. High lift cams and pure race exhaust ystems which will only run in a certain rev range require a high idle as do engines with massively lightened cranks which tend to be quite rare these days due to traction issues.

Anyone who needs to raise the idle so they can change gear smoothly needs to go back to a training school for further teaching.

Anyone who takes the slack out of their throttle cable to raise the idle is not only being very silly in that as Keith says the position of the bars will adjust the idle they are also rendering their bike un-MOT able.

As Toby says you are also reducing your braking efficiency as the engine is running faster and will fight the brakes.

This is possibly one of the stupidest most dangerous threads I have EVER seen on BCF except for the last few times its been suggested.

[MarJay]

[G]

If you've got hit from behind I expect the biggest acceleration will be from whatever hit you I expect.
Brakes should still be fine for stalling the engine - definitely are on a tuned downgeared SV.
If you've lost control from both the rear and front brake, I expect the idle speed will be the least of your worries.

I don't see this mod should be dangerous particularly and may make some manoeuvres slightly safer, however I really don't see the point on the road as it's easy enough to get used to blipping the throttle appropriately instead.

[sickpup]