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EnergyInducti... |
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EnergyInducti... Crazy Courier
Joined: 29 Feb 2008 Karma :
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Posted: 08:49 - 09 Apr 2010 Post subject: Rxs is out of action again.... |
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Last night, Refitted old airbox... Problem with stuttering persisted and got WORSE. plug returned to normal black colouring...
head was dribbling oil a little bit so replaced head gasket, piston seems fine with no play, just coated in bitty gritty carbon, same with the combustion chamber. Cleaned the combustion chamber out while I was there... Also, the gasket between my reed block and the cylinder was torn, so replaced this too... bearing in mind that only 3 bolts work as one of the thread is ruined... when I was bolting it all back up I took care with tightening, then, out of nowhere... the only other bolt securing the upper half of the block shears off..... ****!!!!!
tightened up the lower two to compensate, and it starts and runs, But only on full throttle, Kicking over takes more effort and has more feel to it.
theres about a 0.5mm gap between the top of the reed block and the cylinder letting gulps of air into the engine...
I'm gunna try to get a mobile mechanic to come round and drill the bolt out, and recondition the other stripped thread while he's at it. ____________________ Riding: Yamaha RXS100
Aiming for : RD350 + Test
Dream bike: Suzi RG500 Gamma |
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27cows |
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27cows World Chat Champion
Joined: 01 Nov 2009 Karma :
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Posted: 12:20 - 09 Apr 2010 Post subject: |
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Mobile mechanic will cost Be much cheaper to take the barrel to a bike shop or engineering place, I would have thought.
I vaguely remember many years ago having a barrel with two threaded reed block threads...and I'm sure I managed to bodge it somehow, using longer bolts with nuts on the other side where they emerged. ____________________ The RXS100: vehicle of choice for Chuck Norris |
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EnergyInducti... |
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EnergyInducti... Crazy Courier
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27cows |
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27cows World Chat Champion
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EnergyInducti... |
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EnergyInducti... Crazy Courier
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Robby |
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Robby Dirty Old Man
Joined: 16 May 2002 Karma :
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Posted: 14:52 - 09 Apr 2010 Post subject: |
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Old studs ripping out of Japanese alloy is a fact of life with old cheap Japanese bikes.
I've had a few exhaust studs snap on my CB250RSA. Luckily the studs aren't made of massively hard steel either, so I've been able to carefully drill out the old stud in the pillar drill. They use an M4 stud as standard, so I then drill the hole out to 5.5mm and tap it to M6. When tapping a thread, you drill hole slightly smaller because the outer part of the tap is M6, the threads themselves produce inwards from this.
The other advantage of cheap alloy here is that it's relatively easy to tap a thread into, making sure you start with the tap straight (I sometimes drill the top 2mm of the hole out to M6 as a guide) and work the thread in by going forward half a turn, then back a quarter of a turn, removing the tap from time to time so flush out the hole. You've probably meant to flush it with compressed air, I don't have a compressor for flush it out with 3-in-1. I use that as my cutting fluid too, which is probably wrong.
A tap and die set is cheap - I think mine was £15 delivered from eBay, and is good enough for what I need it for. It would be cheaper for you to drop the engine out or remove the barrell if the reed block bolts onto it, buy a pillar drill (mine was £40 off eBay) and some decent drill bits (£10) and drill and retap those threads to the next size up. Don't get swarf into the engine, gaffer tape on the back side of the holes and patience is your friend. |
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EnergyInducti... |
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EnergyInducti... Crazy Courier
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EnergyInducti... |
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EnergyInducti... Crazy Courier
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Robby Dirty Old Man
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 14 years, 20 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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