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Rxs is out of action again....

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EnergyInducti...
Crazy Courier



Joined: 29 Feb 2008
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PostPosted: 08:49 - 09 Apr 2010    Post subject: Rxs is out of action again.... Reply with quote

Last night, Refitted old airbox... Problem with stuttering persisted and got WORSE. plug returned to normal black colouring...
head was dribbling oil a little bit so replaced head gasket, piston seems fine with no play, just coated in bitty gritty carbon, same with the combustion chamber. Cleaned the combustion chamber out while I was there... Also, the gasket between my reed block and the cylinder was torn, so replaced this too... bearing in mind that only 3 bolts work as one of the thread is ruined... when I was bolting it all back up I took care with tightening, then, out of nowhere... the only other bolt securing the upper half of the block shears off..... ****!!!!!
tightened up the lower two to compensate, and it starts and runs, But only on full throttle, Kicking over takes more effort and has more feel to it.
theres about a 0.5mm gap between the top of the reed block and the cylinder letting gulps of air into the engine...
I'm gunna try to get a mobile mechanic to come round and drill the bolt out, and recondition the other stripped thread while he's at it.
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Riding: Yamaha RXS100
Aiming for : RD350 + Test
Dream bike: Suzi RG500 Gamma
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27cows
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PostPosted: 12:20 - 09 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mobile mechanic will cost Shocked Be much cheaper to take the barrel to a bike shop or engineering place, I would have thought.

I vaguely remember many years ago having a barrel with two threaded reed block threads...and I'm sure I managed to bodge it somehow, using longer bolts with nuts on the other side where they emerged.
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EnergyInducti...
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PostPosted: 12:51 - 09 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

I FORGOT THE BOLTS EMERGE THE OTHER SIDE! Maybe I can grab a bit of the old bolt and twist it back through! Also, I wondered why there was a longer bolt with a nut on it... , But the nut wasnt on the other side, it was halfway up the bolt and just pushed into the threaded hole...
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27cows
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PostPosted: 12:57 - 09 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think you can do the longer bolt and nut trick on the lower two holes but not the top two (the fins get in the way, if I remember correctly).

It's a good idea to use socket cap bolts there as it's considerably more difficult to overtighten them than hex heads.
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EnergyInducti...
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PostPosted: 13:24 - 09 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well unfortunately, It's the top two that are buggered... the top right one is the one thats stripped, and top left the one thats stuck.
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Robby
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PostPosted: 14:52 - 09 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Old studs ripping out of Japanese alloy is a fact of life with old cheap Japanese bikes.

I've had a few exhaust studs snap on my CB250RSA. Luckily the studs aren't made of massively hard steel either, so I've been able to carefully drill out the old stud in the pillar drill. They use an M4 stud as standard, so I then drill the hole out to 5.5mm and tap it to M6. When tapping a thread, you drill hole slightly smaller because the outer part of the tap is M6, the threads themselves produce inwards from this.
The other advantage of cheap alloy here is that it's relatively easy to tap a thread into, making sure you start with the tap straight (I sometimes drill the top 2mm of the hole out to M6 as a guide) and work the thread in by going forward half a turn, then back a quarter of a turn, removing the tap from time to time so flush out the hole. You've probably meant to flush it with compressed air, I don't have a compressor for flush it out with 3-in-1. I use that as my cutting fluid too, which is probably wrong.

A tap and die set is cheap - I think mine was £15 delivered from eBay, and is good enough for what I need it for. It would be cheaper for you to drop the engine out or remove the barrell if the reed block bolts onto it, buy a pillar drill (mine was £40 off eBay) and some decent drill bits (£10) and drill and retap those threads to the next size up. Don't get swarf into the engine, gaffer tape on the back side of the holes and patience is your friend.
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EnergyInducti...
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PostPosted: 16:15 - 09 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

I need the minimum faffing about as I need this for work next week... I was lucky to get a lift today!
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27cows
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PostPosted: 16:42 - 09 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Probably cheaper and certainly easier to buy a second hand barrel/piston, particularly if the one on the bike is well worn.

RXS top ends were ten a penny at one point, but are rather more difficult to come by now.
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EnergyInducti...
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PostPosted: 16:45 - 09 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well my barrel and piston are fine... Which is wierd
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Robby
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PostPosted: 17:46 - 09 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

EnergyInduction wrote:
I need the minimum faffing about as I need this for work next week... I was lucky to get a lift today!


Good for you. Neither I or your bike care about this, if you want it working you need to fix it.
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