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GT200X5 Project

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lihp
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PostPosted: 19:58 - 10 Mar 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mk1GSF wrote:
Update courtesy of my loving Foggot Mr. GSF.

No exciting build shots as I was using the decent weather to get as much done as possible over the weekend, plus the stress of my unjust ban has stopped me being able to do casual updates.

Vanity purchase - Brand new master cylinder. I was investigating rebuilding one from the shit pile but on dismantling it was full of alloy rot and I couldn't be arsed. Won't say much more except it was very, very expensive.

https://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y164/BLUEX5/photo7_zps291ab22a.jpg~original

Brake caliper rebuilt with new seals / piston and OEM pads. I must make mention of how shite Halfrauds VHT pain is, i.e after a 24 hour curing period it's starting to wear off just by handling the caliper to fit dust seals. Not pleased with it at all so will probably redo it at some point. The brake lever is solid as a rock, not that it means anything, these brakes are notoriously shite.


https://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y164/BLUEX5/photo6_zpscbb35974.jpg~original

Headlight and front wiring finished (new bowl and rim). I also took the opportunity to fit the front brake light switch that Suzuki thought was too expensive when the bike was new.

https://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y164/BLUEX5/photo9_zps7c994442.jpg~original

https://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y164/BLUEX5/photo8_zps3cd97111.jpg~original

Not too far off finishing really, awaiting the seat to come back and still need to resolve the clutch issues, am hoping a second hand basket I have coming gives less slop. Till then the right hand side cover remains empty.


https://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y164/BLUEX5/photo5_zpsc6942ec3.jpg~original


Suzuki OEM Goodridge hoses? Wink
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lihp
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PostPosted: 20:06 - 10 Mar 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

This would have been even more epic if it had been done with a Suzuki Workshop tool kit. NoS of course still.
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Shaft
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PostPosted: 03:21 - 15 Mar 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

What news from the front?
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Shaft
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PostPosted: 00:20 - 19 Mar 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

That seems like excellent value, at that price it's not even worth thinking about doing it yourself.
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Shaft
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PostPosted: 00:40 - 19 Mar 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

DiscoBiscuit wrote:


Plus the foam, plus the paint, plus various bolts/nuts/screws, so that leaves what, 60 quid tops?

At my rates, that's less than an hour of my time and I'm pretty handy, but I couldn't get from the before to the after, in under an hour.
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Shaft
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PostPosted: 01:02 - 19 Mar 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep, foam looks fine now that it's obviously new, as for nuts and bolts, I'll tell my supplier what you think and maybe he'll let me off the £50 or so I give him, to top up my supply every few weeks Rolling Eyes
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Shaft
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PostPosted: 02:15 - 19 Mar 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

DiscoBiscuit wrote:
Shaft wrote:
Yep, foam looks fine now that it's obviously new, as for nuts and bolts, I'll tell my supplier what you think and maybe he'll let me off the £50 or so I give him, to top up my supply every few weeks Rolling Eyes


I was referring to the previous picture, and I'd be quite shocked if he spent < £50 on nuts n bolts but it honestly wouldn't surprise me.


I'd be surprised if fastenings hadn't run well into three figures, but that's what a proper restoration costs and good on him for doing it and doing it right.

Some folk restore bikes by paying other people to do the stuff they aren't able/can't be arsed to do themselves, other people do absolutely everything themselves, often with very variable results.

This thread is about a part cheque book, part graft resto, which looks like it's going to finish as well as most owners/viewers would want it to.

What's the problem with spending a few quid on outsourcing and buying the right stuff?
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 13:30 - 20 Mar 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not to mention the fact that the seat cover has a pattern on it. It would be a real pain to get that on straight.
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smegballs
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PostPosted: 17:02 - 28 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mk1GSF wrote:
The brake lever is solid as a rock, not that it means anything, these brakes are notoriously shite.


In all fairness the master cylinder is probably massively oversized for the caliper. Leading to lower line pressure (therefore less force on the pad) and a very stiff lever with fuck all feel.

My GN has a 14mm master cylinder coupled to a 38mm single piston. That's a hydraulic ratio of 7.37. Recommended leverage ratios for single disc setups are in the range of 12-14. I've just ordered an 11mm master cylinder which will put my ratio to 11.97, on the stiff end of recommended. That should give much better lever feel and also generate much higher hydraulic pressures, improve the braking power no end.

If you tell me you'r current master cylinder size and caliper info (number of pistons, their diameter, and configuration (slider, fixed)) I'll run the maths and see what your ratios are. I'll report back when I get my new master installed how it affects the braking.

It seems quite often the OEM master is just whatever happened to be in bulk in the warehouse at the time.

EDIT:

Just read the post properly and noticed you just shelled out big dollar for a new m/c. I'll hazard a guess that you won't want to be changing that out then, even if it is horrendously oversize. It would still be interesting to run the number for the fun of it, and see just how good/bad the OEM caliper and master is matched.

okay.jpg
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expat200
Borekit Bruiser



Joined: 27 Jun 2013
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PostPosted: 13:29 - 05 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

smegballs wrote:
Mk1GSF wrote:
The brake lever is solid as a rock, not that it means anything, these brakes are notoriously shite.


In all fairness the master cylinder is probably massively oversized for the caliper. Leading to lower line pressure (therefore less force on the pad) and a very stiff lever with fuck all feel.

My GN has a 14mm master cylinder coupled to a 38mm single piston. That's a hydraulic ratio of 7.37. Recommended leverage ratios for single disc setups are in the range of 12-14. I've just ordered an 11mm master cylinder which will put my ratio to 11.97, on the stiff end of recommended. That should give much better lever feel and also generate much higher hydraulic pressures, improve the braking power no end.

If you tell me you'r current master cylinder size and caliper info (number of pistons, their diameter, and configuration (slider, fixed)) I'll run the maths and see what your ratios are. I'll report back when I get my new master installed how it affects the braking.

It seems quite often the OEM master is just whatever happened to be in bulk in the warehouse at the time.

EDIT:

Just read the post properly and noticed you just shelled out big dollar for a new m/c. I'll hazard a guess that you won't want to be changing that out then, even if it is horrendously oversize. It would still be interesting to run the number for the fun of it, and see just how good/bad the OEM caliper and master is matched.

okay.jpg


Strange that this is the case as I raced an X7 (back in the day) and found the front brake was superb, certainly enough to overwhelm the skinny tyres, bendy forks and negligible suspension. I thought the X5 used the same setup (had one on the road when I was a student).

With a braided steel brake line, suitably sticky tyre, 30 pence of preload in the forks and a heavy fork brace you could easily arrive at a corner with tyre howling and the back wheel off the ground. Front end grip was the limiting factor rather than the brakes.

Stuart
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