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Resurrection: GSX1400 (Part 2)

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BanditsHigh
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PostPosted: 21:00 - 11 May 2009    Post subject: Resurrection: GSX1400 (Part 2) Reply with quote

Thought this may interest some of you ...

Link to Part 1 https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=173115

Right, here we go ... a rough guide to stripping a 14 engine.

Tools required ... yes ... used my Teng Jumbo 111 piece socket set and a pair of circlip pliers ... jam doughtnuts, cups'o'tea and fags may help as well.

Tip#1 ... look at the bit where I'm stripping the clutch ... do this bit first while the engine is still in the frame as you can put it in gear, put a dod'o'wood through the back wheel and undo the clutch nut ... if you don't do this then you'll need a proper clutch holding tool, or do as I did and cut two flats on a sprocket and then put a big vice on the sprocket to hold it while you undo the clutch nut.

Where possible I'll highlight appropriate bolts etc using yellow marks.

This is the lump out of the frame ...

https://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b9/BanditsHigh/GSX1400_Engine_Strip/GSX1400_Engine_Strip001.jpg

Undo all the clutch cover nuts ...
https://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b9/BanditsHigh/GSX1400_Engine_Strip/GSX1400_Engine_Strip002.jpg

Remove the clutch cover and undo the pressure plate bolts in a diagonal sequence to release pressure equally ...
https://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b9/BanditsHigh/GSX1400_Engine_Strip/GSX1400_Engine_Strip003.jpg

Undo the clutch nut and remove ...
https://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b9/BanditsHigh/GSX1400_Engine_Strip/GSX1400_Engine_Strip007.jpg

Remove dog drive plate ...
https://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b9/BanditsHigh/GSX1400_Engine_Strip/GSX1400_Engine_Strip008.jpg

Remove inner clutch basket, drive plates and friction plates ...
https://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b9/BanditsHigh/GSX1400_Engine_Strip/GSX1400_Engine_Strip009.jpg

Remove outer clutch basket, push the bearing/bush back while doing this (the yellow dot) ...
https://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b9/BanditsHigh/GSX1400_Engine_Strip/GSX1400_Engine_Strip010.jpg

Remove bush, bearing and oil pump drive gear ...
https://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b9/BanditsHigh/GSX1400_Engine_Strip/GSX1400_Engine_Strip011.jpg
https://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b9/BanditsHigh/GSX1400_Engine_Strip/GSX1400_Engine_Strip013.jpg

Right, to the back of the engine, remove all the bolts shown to get oil pipes, camchain tensioner and sensor off ... undo bolts on tensioner equally, it's under pressure from the ratchet spring ...
https://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b9/BanditsHigh/GSX1400_Engine_Strip/GSX1400_Engine_Strip014.jpg
https://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b9/BanditsHigh/GSX1400_Engine_Strip/GSX1400_Engine_Strip015.jpg

Undo these bolts to take air boxy thing off ...
https://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b9/BanditsHigh/GSX1400_Engine_Strip/GSX1400_Engine_Strip016.jpg

Undo these bolts to remove starter motor ... just pulls out to the right ...
https://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b9/BanditsHigh/GSX1400_Engine_Strip/GSX1400_Engine_Strip017.jpg
https://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b9/BanditsHigh/GSX1400_Engine_Strip/GSX1400_Engine_Strip018.jpg


Breather ................................................... and on we go ...

Undo these bolts to remove signal generator cover ...
https://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b9/BanditsHigh/GSX1400_Engine_Strip/GSX1400_Engine_Strip019.jpg

Undo this bolt to removal signal generator rotor ...
https://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b9/BanditsHigh/GSX1400_Engine_Strip/GSX1400_Engine_Strip020.jpg
https://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b9/BanditsHigh/GSX1400_Engine_Strip/GSX1400_Engine_Strip021.jpg

Undo these screws to remove signal generator pickup plate and oil pressure sensor wire (need this undone to be able to remove plate) ...
https://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b9/BanditsHigh/GSX1400_Engine_Strip/GSX1400_Engine_Strip022.jpg
https://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b9/BanditsHigh/GSX1400_Engine_Strip/GSX1400_Engine_Strip023.jpg

And remove signal generator plate (watch out for dirt/grit trapped in the area above the rubber seal on the wires) ... you may also want to remove the pressure sensor as well to save it getting squashed if you tip the engine over ...
https://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b9/BanditsHigh/GSX1400_Engine_Strip/GSX1400_Engine_Strip024.jpg

Right onto the alternator casing, undo all these bolts and then carefully pull the casing off ... watch yourself here as the rotor magnets attract the casing quite strongly ...
https://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b9/BanditsHigh/GSX1400_Engine_Strip/GSX1400_Engine_Strip025.jpg

Pull out starter motor idler gear shaft and remove it and idler gear ...
https://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b9/BanditsHigh/GSX1400_Engine_Strip/GSX1400_Engine_Strip026.jpg
https://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b9/BanditsHigh/GSX1400_Engine_Strip/GSX1400_Engine_Strip027.jpg


Onto the top of the engine next, undo all these bolts to remove cam cover ...
https://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b9/BanditsHigh/GSX1400_Engine_Strip/GSX1400_Engine_Strip028.jpg

Undo three middle bolts first to remove upper cam chain slider then undo eight camshaft cap bolts to remover the caps (inlet camshaft) ... do these in a diagonal sequence say a turn or two at a time ... the camshaft will be pressing some valves down and not on others, so you want to ensure it comes up as level as possible to prevent any undue stress (caps are marked A/B/C/D with same marks on cylinder head) ...
https://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b9/BanditsHigh/GSX1400_Engine_Strip/GSX1400_Engine_Strip029.jpg

Caps now removed so camshaft is now free to be removed ... lift chain up and take the camshaft out to one side (cams are marked IN and EX so you won't get them mixed up) ...
https://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b9/BanditsHigh/GSX1400_Engine_Strip/GSX1400_Engine_Strip030.jpg

Do the same again for the exhaust camshaft ...
https://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b9/BanditsHigh/GSX1400_Engine_Strip/GSX1400_Engine_Strip031.jpg

Next undo the two bolts under the front of the cylinder head ... one of these snapped as I undid it, but this doesn't stop you getting the cylinder head off (this was the only bolt that snapped) ...
https://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b9/BanditsHigh/GSX1400_Engine_Strip/GSX1400_Engine_Strip034.jpg

Undo two yellow blob bolts to remove oil feed pipe ... undo the two green blob bolts next and finally the red blobs bolts are the cylinder head bolts and should be undone in a diagonal sequence ... these are feckin tight ...
https://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b9/BanditsHigh/GSX1400_Engine_Strip/GSX1400_Engine_Strip032.jpg

There are ten long cylinder head bolts to be removed, the other two are studs and have a dome nut on them ... so now that's all done take the cylinder head off ... this may be a little difficult to get off due to the two oil drain tubes at the front being stuck due to road crap ... take your time!!
https://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b9/BanditsHigh/GSX1400_Engine_Strip/GSX1400_Engine_Strip033.jpg
https://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b9/BanditsHigh/GSX1400_Engine_Strip/GSX1400_Engine_Strip035.jpg

Barrels are next, you only need to undo one nut for this ... the nut may be rusted on and it'll extract the stud as you undo it ... you won't be able to undo it fully before it foul on the barrels, but once the barrels are lifted slightly you'll be able to undo it fully ... you also need to remove drain tubes as well before lifting barrels ...
https://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b9/BanditsHigh/GSX1400_Engine_Strip/GSX1400_Engine_Strip036.jpg
https://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b9/BanditsHigh/GSX1400_Engine_Strip/GSX1400_Engine_Strip037.jpg
https://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b9/BanditsHigh/GSX1400_Engine_Strip/GSX1400_Engine_Strip038.jpg
https://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b9/BanditsHigh/GSX1400_Engine_Strip/GSX1400_Engine_Strip039.jpg

Right, this is the bit where I forgot that you need to take the pistons off before you can split the cases ... so no pics of removing one circlip in each piston, then pushing gudgeon pin out to remove piston ... but this is what it looks like with pistons removed (remember which pistons goes where!!) ...
https://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b9/BanditsHigh/GSX1400_Engine_Strip/GSX1400_Engine_Strip048.jpg

Next, splitting the main engine cases ... undo these bolts on the top of the engine first ...
https://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b9/BanditsHigh/GSX1400_Engine_Strip/GSX1400_Engine_Strip042.jpg

Then turn engine over so you can get to the sump and undo these bolts to remove sump ...
https://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b9/BanditsHigh/GSX1400_Engine_Strip/GSX1400_Engine_Strip043.jpg

Undo these two bolts to remove oil pickup ...
https://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b9/BanditsHigh/GSX1400_Engine_Strip/GSX1400_Engine_Strip044.jpg

Remove these two bolts to remove balancer shaft guard, and also remove oil pipe (tight little fecker) ...
https://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b9/BanditsHigh/GSX1400_Engine_Strip/GSX1400_Engine_Strip045.jpg

Remove all the small yellow blob bolts first (sugar missed a blob to the right of the big copper washer), then undo the red blob bolts in a diagonal sequence ... these are the main crankshaft bolts so will be tight ...
https://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b9/BanditsHigh/GSX1400_Engine_Strip/GSX1400_Engine_Strip046.jpg
https://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b9/BanditsHigh/GSX1400_Engine_Strip/GSX1400_Engine_Strip047.jpg

Now flip the engine right way up again and lift the top half of the main casing off ...
https://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b9/BanditsHigh/GSX1400_Engine_Strip/GSX1400_Engine_Strip049.jpg

Lift the gear box shafts out ...
https://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b9/BanditsHigh/GSX1400_Engine_Strip/GSX1400_Engine_Strip050.jpg

And finally lift the crankshaft out ...
https://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b9/BanditsHigh/GSX1400_Engine_Strip/GSX1400_Engine_Strip051.jpg

Fed up taking pictures now and stripping, so last bits to be removed are the gear selector drum and shaft ... undoing these screws/bolts will allow these parts to be removed ...
https://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b9/BanditsHigh/GSX1400_Engine_Strip/GSX1400_Engine_Strip052.jpg

This engine has done just over 46k miles, and the main bearing surfaces are in perfect condition ... they should be a dull grey colour but the picture isn't the best ...
https://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b9/BanditsHigh/GSX1400_Engine_Strip/GSX1400_Engine_Strip053.jpg

All conrods seem to be in good nick apart from #3 which is a bit stiff ... didn't have the right type of socket to get it off so I'm stuck for now and don't know if it's gubbed or just tight Sad

The bores are perfect looking to the eye and still have the honing marks on them, couldn't believe it!!

Finally ... this is what a GSX1400 engine looks like mostly stripped down ...
https://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b9/BanditsHigh/GSX1400_Engine_Strip/GSX1400_Engine_Strip054.jpg

Hope you found this interesting Smile

All the best ... Barry
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400bandit
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PostPosted: 22:50 - 11 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Awesome write up there, always had a soft spot for them. Is it going back standard? Would be a shame to not at least fetle with her now she's all stripped down like... Razz

Joe
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alun111
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PostPosted: 23:47 - 11 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Excellent write up! I never thought I'd be able to do a full engine strip down but the only things I haven't done by looking at that is splitting the casings and removing the crankshaft etc.

I hope to one day do this to my bandit 4 engine to give it a full rebuild and also replace second gear.
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quacker_boy
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PostPosted: 23:55 - 11 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tip of the day: Stick an elastic band on one end of your gear shafts and pull it round to the other side, stops the cogs sliding off accidentally, can be a bitch to put it all back together Thumbs Up

Looking forward to seeing what this turns into Thumbs Up
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mattsprattuk
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PostPosted: 03:24 - 12 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

im guessing you had some valve to piston contact?
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Blue_SV650S wrote: it was a sh1te wheelie, but it proves that he can get it up in 3rd and can do angles. In summery, mattsprattuk is a gobby little sh1tebag, dopehead tw4t, but sadly for all of us, he probably isn't THAT full of sh1te!! Mr. Green
Kickstart wrote: Hi I tend to agree with Matt. All the best Keith
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chris-red
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PostPosted: 04:15 - 12 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

How does a gearbox work? Does the whole lot mesh and spin together and changing gear just locks a different pair of gears to the spindal? How to do the cogs lock onto the spindal?
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BanditsHigh
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PostPosted: 06:48 - 12 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

mattsprattuk wrote:
im guessing you had some valve to piston contact?


Eh ... how did you come to that conclusion Confused

Was nothing wrong with the engine apart from the fecked 2nd gear!!

The #3 conrod big ends may be shot, but I don't know yet ... everything else looks in perfect condition.

I decided to do a full strip/rebuild to check condition of it since I was going to be replacing the gearbox anyway. I also plan to repaint it as well.


chris-red wrote:
How does a gearbox work? Does the whole lot mesh and spin together and changing gear just locks a different pair of gears to the spindal? How to do the cogs lock onto the spindal?


Some gear cogs are on a spline (like a front sprocket, but movable), some are fixed and some free wheel ... some have drive dogs which interlock with other gear cogs.

As you change gear, the gear cogs slide from side to side meshing with the different cogs which all have different numbers of teeth ... the ratio of drive teeth to driven teeth gives you the gear ratio and hence the different speeds Thumbs Up
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Big Rab
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PostPosted: 06:51 - 12 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Brilliant piece of work there Thumbs Up
Brings back memories when i stripped my GS850 and restored it.
First time I had stripped and built a Suzuki engine, quite easy really, just have to do it methodically, take pics and remember where it all goes, trying not to have any bits left over Wink Laughing

I cant wait to see the finished bike now, have you set a time limit to finish the bike.

Rab

Good luck Thumbs Up
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BanditsHigh
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PostPosted: 06:53 - 12 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

400bandit wrote:
Awesome write up there, always had a soft spot for them. Is it going back standard? Would be a shame to not at least fetle with her now she's all stripped down like... Razz
Joe


I fancy a set of Yoshi cams, but @ £700+ I don't have the money at the moment, similar story with getting head gas flowed ... it's cost over £1k so far for powder coating, new shocks and engine gaskets Shocked

I can always do the Yoshi cams when I have the money Thumbs Up

All the best ... Barry
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400bandit
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PostPosted: 07:45 - 12 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Surely you could get them re-ground? Places like Kent Cams can do it and I bet they have the profiles of the Yoshi ones, would cost half as much. Cool write up, it's amazing how much these things cost once they get going isn't it?

Joe
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BanditsHigh
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PostPosted: 07:51 - 12 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

400bandit wrote:
Surely you could get them re-ground? Places like Kent Cams can do it and I bet they have the profiles of the Yoshi ones, would cost half as much. Cool write up, it's amazing how much these things cost once they get going isn't it?

Joe


Hi Joe, I've already checked about this very idea, i.e. regrind of OE cams ... I though they built weld up on the cams and then reground, but turns out they grind down to a smaller base circle leaving a higher cam, which then means fitting oversize shims ... cost was about the £330 mark ... I still think I'd prefer the Yoshi cams though Thumbs Up

I was made redundant in October and still don't have a job so money is running out fast Sad

All the best ... Barry
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Mr.Everready
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PostPosted: 07:55 - 12 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

BanditsHigh wrote:
mattsprattuk wrote:
im guessing you had some valve to piston contact?


Eh ... how did you come to that conclusion Confused



The valve recesses ( dunno what they're called ) on the pistons.

Excellent work Barry, did you take the pictures to help yourself put it all back together ? Wink
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mattsprattuk
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PostPosted: 10:32 - 12 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mr.Everready wrote:
BanditsHigh wrote:

Eh ... how did you come to that conclusion Confused



The valve recesses ( dunno what they're called ) on the pistons.

Excellent work Barry, did you take the pictures to help yourself put it all back together ? Wink


yeah, one of the pistons looks like its taken a pounding at some point.
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Blue_SV650S wrote: it was a sh1te wheelie, but it proves that he can get it up in 3rd and can do angles. In summery, mattsprattuk is a gobby little sh1tebag, dopehead tw4t, but sadly for all of us, he probably isn't THAT full of sh1te!! Mr. Green
Kickstart wrote: Hi I tend to agree with Matt. All the best Keith
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DaveH
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PostPosted: 10:57 - 12 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Top write up Thumbs Up Karma Cool
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BanditsHigh
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PostPosted: 11:36 - 12 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
The valve recesses ( dunno what they're called ) on the pistons.


Quote:
yeah, one of the pistons looks like its taken a pounding at some point.


Ah right, got you now ... nope the pistons are shaped like that ... means the piston can move closer to the valves without hitting Thumbs Up

Pistons are in perfect nick, hardly any carbon buildup either and that's soft so easily cleaned Smile

All the best ... Barry
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mattsprattuk
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PostPosted: 11:47 - 12 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

i know theyre meant to have recesses for the valves, but the inside left seems to have metal swarf in it
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Blue_SV650S wrote: it was a sh1te wheelie, but it proves that he can get it up in 3rd and can do angles. In summery, mattsprattuk is a gobby little sh1tebag, dopehead tw4t, but sadly for all of us, he probably isn't THAT full of sh1te!! Mr. Green
Kickstart wrote: Hi I tend to agree with Matt. All the best Keith
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Davie_G71
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PostPosted: 12:28 - 12 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Brilliant write up big man.
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DaveH
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PostPosted: 12:31 - 12 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

mattsprattuk wrote:
i know theyre meant to have recesses for the valves, but the inside left seems to have metal swarf in it
Nah, it's just some more of his grey hair falling out Wink
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druidsam
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PostPosted: 12:34 - 12 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

good work barry, very informative Thumbs Up


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mapex
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PostPosted: 15:40 - 12 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Brilliant big man....well laid out post and
a good post for anyone doing the same
but with less skill.
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BanditsHigh
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PostPosted: 15:50 - 12 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

mattsprattuk wrote:
i know theyre meant to have recesses for the valves, but the inside left seems to have metal swarf in it


Ah right ... we'll get there in the end ... it's hard to judge level of knowledge from a couple of posts Laughing

Pistons are perfect, there's a drop of water on one of the pistons (#2), and some dust on the others from when I removed the barrels ... the dust came from the crap which had jammed the oil drain tubes in Thumbs Up

All the best ... Barry
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BanditsHigh
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PostPosted: 19:24 - 12 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well I was right about #3 big ends ... see if you can spot the difference ...

#3 big ends ...
https://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b9/BanditsHigh/GSX1400_Engine_Strip/GSX1400_Conrod001.jpg

#4 big ends ...
https://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b9/BanditsHigh/GSX1400_Engine_Strip/GSX1400_Conrod002.jpg

Luckily I think the conrod and crank are ok, I have a feeling this either happened when she spat the dummy cause I'd bought the SRAD and one of the oil lines let go and pissed oil all over the SRAD, or when I turned her over a few times a week or so later (luckily she didn't start).

I'm not an expert on this so will get some professional advice.

So hopefully just a new set of shells Thumbs Up

All the best ... Barry
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mattsprattuk
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PostPosted: 19:44 - 12 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

i think you need a really close DI of journal 3. it wont have done it any good. personally i wouldnt re-use that journal if it did that.
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Blue_SV650S wrote: it was a sh1te wheelie, but it proves that he can get it up in 3rd and can do angles. In summery, mattsprattuk is a gobby little sh1tebag, dopehead tw4t, but sadly for all of us, he probably isn't THAT full of sh1te!! Mr. Green
Kickstart wrote: Hi I tend to agree with Matt. All the best Keith
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Wise1
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PostPosted: 19:54 - 12 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice job Fudnut.....

Will come round this week and have a look.

You done work to the house?


....Just thought I would ask Mr. Green
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husky
Nitrous Nuisance



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PostPosted: 23:42 - 12 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

excellent and informative as normal barry Thumbs Up
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