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How to Derestrict my '02 CBR600F Sport

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p0peye
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PostPosted: 13:06 - 02 Jul 2009    Post subject: How to Derestrict my '02 CBR600F Sport Reply with quote

Hi all,
I did post in another rather old post, but I was adviced to start a new one, so - here we go...

Note: who don't have time to read all the intro stuff: Skip the italic Smile

2 years ago I bought a wrecked '03 CBR 600 F Sport (yes, I know they were manufactured just in '01 and '02, but the first registration was '03 and so it is...), and the bike was restricted to 33bhp...

I am 35 y.o., and I have driven bikes since my elemetary school. However - I sold my last bike ('92 CBR 600 F2) 4 years ago, so I thought it will be OK to get back my feeling, and I didn't mind the bike been restricted. For a while...

I got it back in few days (I wanted to say minutes, but then someone might claim that I am showing off Wink ), but I have driven her limited last year, as I didn't have time to deal with that issue (I got a son in February last year, changed a job, had a family tragedy...)


Anyway - I did manage to run away from home and remove the restriction air-inlet diffusers in one afternoon (thanks to http://forum.cbrforum.de/viewtopic.php?t=25982 - German step-by-step instructions), but I run in to a problem:

I managed to remove 4 diffusers from the boots between injection and engine head, I looked at cable, but no cable limiter was found. The butterfly valves opens completely (90 degrees)...

And then, when I got it back together - almost nothing happened.
A slight improvement in acceleration, a bit more revs, but all together - minor changes...

Again, I asked at http://forum.cbrforum.de/viewtopic.php?t=25982 but the major problem was my language, as I speak English, and just a bit of German, so as I was posting in English, limited people was able to respond.
There might be someone on that forum knowing how to solve my problem, but if one doesn't speak English - he can't help...

Anyway, if (Google translate and) I understood well - the only way to reduce power on F4i is with this restrictions. I got an answer that no electr(on)ic limit is known for an F4i...

But, a friend of mine asked me recently if I have a restriction on my exhaust also - I will check as soon as I grab some time, but I definitely don't have a standard exhaust on her - it is a titanium ARROW (made out of 5-6 pieces connected with springs)...

Any Ideas what should I do next (except to check an exaust)?
What am I missing - can it be that the whole CDI mast be changed?
In general, is it at all possible to restrict the injection feed bike with out changing the CDI, just with air-flow diffusers (and some else mechanical means)?
If "yes" - what should I check next?

Thanks for any (useful or not - the good will is what counts Smile info and regards,
N

p.s. - a friend from this forum (thanks, alains Smile ) asked at his Honda dealer and got back the info:
here is spares to change (i dont have the refs)
- 2 coded keys (50 euros each)
- 4 intake pipes (15 euros each)
- 1 electronic blackbox (900 euros)
all prices are ex VAT (19,6% in france)

I just can't believe that all this was changed just to limit the bike's power to 33 bhp.
Especially if I take a look at http://www.fiinternational.com/ShowDetails.asp?name=CBR600F+Sport&type=Honda, I see that the costs are €190.30, I assume that is not a price for a CDI, diffusers, and keys, but I just can't login to check what the kit contents...
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Last edited by p0peye on 13:47 - 02 Jul 2009; edited 1 time in total
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Sparks!
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PostPosted: 13:18 - 02 Jul 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your exhaust WONT have a restrictor in it.

How fast does the bike go flat out? I didn't notice a /massive/ difference in my R6 between resrticted and de-restricted other than that it had a higher top speed and a bit less lump/more acceleration. If your bike does over 130 now then it's derestricted...

I think some cases you can restrict the cbr with a "black box" although it's unusual... worth looking into though if it's still definetly restricted...
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Wafer_Thin_Ham
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PostPosted: 13:32 - 02 Jul 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Put in on a dyno and see what power it's making.

There won't be a restriction in the exhaust as Sparks! says.

Could be a different ECU, that would be most likely. Or there could be another problem with the bike....
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Timmeh
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PostPosted: 13:33 - 02 Jul 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

The F-Sport can come with a restricted ECU, if it was done at the factory.

Best bet is to look on eBay or david silver spares for a full-power EU one, as buying a new ECU from Honda is just silly money.

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Sparks!
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PostPosted: 13:37 - 02 Jul 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Timmeh wrote:
The F-Sport can come with a restricted ECU, if it was done at the factory.

Best bet is to look on eBay or david silver spares for a full-power EU one, as buying a new ECU from Honda is just silly money.

Thumbs Up


Agreed, new ones are stupidly expensive.. just remember you need the correct keys to match the ECU else it won't work.
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p0peye
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PostPosted: 14:40 - 02 Jul 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey guys,
thanks for an express reply...
Smile

So:

Sparks! wrote:
Your exhaust WONT have a restrictor in it.

How fast does the bike go flat out?


The bike's top speed was approx. 170 km/h (approx 100 mph) - and I know it should be approx 250 km/h (not that I need it - I miss more the acceleration - at the time it is supposed to start being fun - it stalls... Sad )

Big_Ham wrote:
Put in on a dyno and see what power it's making.
Could be a different ECU, that would be most likely. Or there could be another problem with the bike....


I suppose I don't really need to put it on a dyno if I see that it won't rev over 9000 rpm and go faster then 170 km&h?

Timmeh wrote:
The F-Sport can come with a restricted ECU, if it was done at the factory.

Best bet is to look on eBay or david silver spares for a full-power EU one, as buying a new ECU from Honda is just silly money.

Thumbs Up


So - I suppose all I have to do is to write to Honda my little sad story, and ask them - they should have a record if this bike (give them the chassis and engine serial no) is factory restricted... Question

And yes - I also thought to search the eBay if I really need one. Right now - I would like to get the diagnostics right: is it or is it not the ECU problem...

Sparks! wrote:

Agreed, new ones are stupidly expensive.. just remember you need the correct keys to match the ECU else it won't work.


And what about the electronic lock (the part you put you key in and turn it to give a contact)? I would have to change it also?
I saw that the keys are sold blank, un-profiled, just coded, and one should make a profile copy of the old key. but what about electronic part of the lock (HISS)? is it just a "reader" that sends the info to CDI - means that won't be needed to change...?

p.s. - I still can't believe that much money should be spent to restrict the bike... In the old carb days - all you had to do is to put an air-intake diffusers and cable limitator and - voilà !
p.s.s. - as this issue is buggering me more and more - I wrote a letter to FI International and Alpha Technik - I thought a diagnose from the experts won't hurt... Smile We'll see...
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Sparks!
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PostPosted: 15:16 - 02 Jul 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

p0peye wrote:

Sparks! wrote:

Agreed, new ones are stupidly expensive.. just remember you need the correct keys to match the ECU else it won't work.


And what about the electronic lock (the part you put you key in and turn it to give a contact)? I would have to change it also?
I saw that the keys are sold blank, un-profiled, just coded, and one should make a profile copy of the old key. but what about electronic part of the lock (HISS)? is it just a "reader" that sends the info to CDI - means that won't be needed to change...?


You'd either have to change the whole lockset of get your existing key re-coded to match the ECU (not sure how this is done but it's not cheap)... the HISS reader is just a reader, you can use any key/ecu with it as long as the key and ECU match.
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alains
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PostPosted: 16:17 - 02 Jul 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

i think i told you about these keys . the metallic part is blank but the elecronic part is coded with the ECU . so you must go to a key cutter with the blank and the key from your actual keylock in order to be machined
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carlperkins00...
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PostPosted: 16:23 - 02 Jul 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

so you've removed the 4 washers..
and there was no throttle restriction..

I highly doubt they would restrict the jets or exhaust.
as its not a carburettor model it wont have inlet blades or carb restrictiors.

that only leaves the ECU unit. buy a full power ECU and give it a try... if you still have the problem then something must be wrong with the bike.

I just find it weird that there was no throttle restriction. on feul injected bikes usually the 4 washers in the airbox go with the throttle restrictors. Confused
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Wafer_Thin_Ham
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PostPosted: 07:20 - 03 Jul 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sparks! wrote:

You'd either have to change the whole lockset of get your existing key re-coded to match the ECU (not sure how this is done but it's not cheap)... the HISS reader is just a reader, you can use any key/ecu with it as long as the key and ECU match.


I was told they can't code keys from scratch to match an ECU, only copy the code from an existing key for the ECU at a cost of about £60.
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Noxious89123
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PostPosted: 22:58 - 03 Jul 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Im sure you can just get new blank keys cut to match your locks, and thn get them coded for the new ECU...

Let me just get the haynes out and I'll type up what it says...

Haynes wrote:

To register new keys with a new ICU/ECM (electronic control module)
28. Obtain a new ICU/ECM along with two (or more if you want) new keys. Install the ICU/ECM (See section 5 or chapter 4). Have the keys cut to match the original key for your inition switch.

29. Insert a new key into the switch and turn it ON. The indicator (it means the HISS light) should now come on for two seconds, then begin to flash repeatedly four times. This indicates that the system has registered the new key. If the indicator stays on for ten seconds then starts to flash, then there is a fault in the system, which will have gone into fault diagnosis, and the pattern of the flashes it emits should be matched with the fault code (listed elsewhere, if you need them ask).

30. Turn the ignition OFF and remove the key.

31. Insert the second new key and turn the ignition ON. The indicator should now come on for two seconds, then begin to flash repeatedly four times. This indicates that the system has registered the second new key.

32. Turn the ignition OFF and remove the key.

33. The new ICU/ECM will only register two new keys at this stage. If you have a third that you want to register, refer to steps 4 and 10 to register it, noting that you will need the special tool (which I have if anyone needs to use it. pm me) mentioned therein.

34. Check that both newly registered keys can start the motorcycle.



Note: Make sure the 2 keys are kept really far apart when doing all this. When I was coding a new key, I found that if they were anywhere near each other they caused problems.

HTH
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p0peye
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PostPosted: 07:46 - 06 Jul 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi all,
back to work from prolonged weekend - it was nice but short... Smile

So:

Sparks! wrote:

You'd either have to change the whole lockset of get your existing key re-coded to match the ECU (not sure how this is done but it's not cheap)... the HISS reader is just a reader, you can use any key/ecu with it as long as the key and ECU match.


Now, let me say that my budget can't afford me to buy a new ECU, so I suppose that I'll look at eBay for used one...

The good news : I won't have to buy a new HISS reader

The bad news (besides the new ECU paired with keys - I'll need to buy a lockset as well...


This way or another - it looks like I'll have to do a thorough study which ECU will fit my bike (US, UK, EU, JP...) and to check if there are any differences (but - if



One thing that confuses me though is:
Somewhere on the net I red that the ECU can tolerate a small difference in air flow and adjust the fuel accordingly, but the drop from 110hp to 34 is too much and it can't be done with the same ECU.
If so - how come my bike rides wonderful now (maybe just a bit better acceleration, but the same top speed) as before the removal of the air diffusers? The amount of air is much greater now, and how come it compensates it so good? Why was the different ECU needed in first place then?

The second:

I asked the Alpha Technik, FI International and BC-Parts, and all of them replied to me that no other changes are needed besides kit 02-pc35-k26 (comprised of inlet washer blades, and also a throttle stop. So there is no need for a new computer unit or anything) - I'll forward the messages I received...

alains wrote:
i think i told you about these keys . the metallic part is blank but the elecronic part is coded with the ECU . so you must go to a key cutter with the blank and the key from your actual keylock in order to be machined


Yes, thank you again Alais, but as I said - I don't have the money to buy a new set - it is all just too expensive for my budget - either a used ECU, or drive the bike like this and eventually sell it.
(However - if the other ECU is really needed - I suppose I could sell this "restricted" one on eBay also, and that would be much easier on my budget...

So - if I buy a used ECU and the keys, I'll need the whole keyset as well (ignition lock, fuel lock and the tail lock...)

carlperkins001 wrote:
...that only leaves the ECU unit. buy a full power ECU and give it a try...

Yes, eventually I suppose I'll have to do that. I just want to be absolutely sure it is the new ECU that is needed, and not to end up with another ECU and the unsolved problem, as well...
Quote:

if you still have the problem then something must be wrong with the bike.

I was starting to wonder, but the funny thing is: It was riding so smooth (as GPZ500s - the ZX5 I suppose for USA market) before the washers removal, and a bit better now - no problems. Smooth, nice...
Quote:


I just find it weird that there was no throttle restriction. on feul injected bikes usually the 4 washers in the airbox go with the throttle restrictors. Confused

Yes, but I was given before the answer that it is very easy to remove (I suppose you meant the cable motion limiter) and it is possible it was already removed.
I suppose that is just what happened...

Big_Ham wrote:

I was told they can't code keys from scratch to match an ECU, only copy the code from an existing key for the ECU at a cost of about £60.


Yes... Well - I hope I'll be lucky enough to get the hole set (ECU, the keys and the lock set for a reasonable price...). I'll be patience, as I can ride the bike...

Noxious89123 wrote:
Im sure you can just get new blank keys cut to match your locks, and thn get them coded for the new ECU...

Let me just get the haynes out and I'll type up what it says...
...............................................................
Note: Make sure the 2 keys are kept really far apart when doing all this. When I was coding a new key, I found that if they were anywhere near each other they caused problems.

HTH


Hey, Noxious - no way you typed in all that stuff for a foreign guy?!? I hope you just had an electronic form of it and did the copy / paste?!?

If not - I'll have to buy the XXXXXXXL bear if we ever meet (just "thank you" somehow seems not enough - that goes for all of you trying to help me Smile )
However, thank you for the tip about keeping keys apart as well Smile

So, this is what a man have to do when he is away from his PC for few days Smile

Thank you all, and I'll keep you informed if anything new happens.

I'll just forward you the mails I was speaking, so this little discussion can be more fun Wink

p0peye
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p0peye
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PostPosted: 09:30 - 06 Jul 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

So - here we go:
me:
Dear FI International,
Can you please tell me what is needed to restrict Honda CBR 600 F Sport to 25kW? is 02-PC35-K26 sufficient, or do I have to change my Computer Unit, or something else?
Thank you in advance and best regards,
Nenad Nikolić


FI International:
Hello Nenad,
If your bike has got the chassis number beginning jh2pc35.... and is the fuel injection model, then 02-pc35-k26 kit would be the correct kit for that bike. That kit is comprised of inlet washer blades, and also a throttle stop. So there is no need for a new computer unit or anything.
The RRP is £172.99. the kit can only be fitted by one of oiur authorised dealers, so its our price plus there fitting price.
D.
FI International


Alpha-Technik GmbH & Co. KG
Dear Nenad,
the restriction kit 02-PC35-K26 is for a injection model. You don't need to change something with your computer unit.
kind regards
A. S.
Alpha-Technik GmbH & Co. KG



BC-Parts:
(it turned out that the person replying to my mail speaks my language, so we spoke it. I'll translate the important parts:

-Hello, the Number you listed ist 26KW. If you live in Germany, you'll have problems with the TÜV. What year and type is your bike?
- If the bike was bought with 25kw (which I doubt), then the means of power limitation had to be mentioned in the Swiss papers. Mainly, that kind of bikes are limited by putting a small piece of metal part that shortens the line of the throttle cable...
If that don't do the trick - ssend me the scanned Swiss papers, and I'll take a look if something is written there...


(so I sent him the scanned papers), and the reply is:
- Nothing is mentioned in the papers, but I saw by the chassis number that only 2 variants are possible:
One is mentioned before (the cable limiter).
The second is also shorthening the cable line, but it is not on the injection unit, but rather on the cable end - e.g. on the cable holder...
Mit freundlichen Grüßen,
D. T.
BC-Parts


Now - I think that I should rephrase my Q 8to FI I. and Alpha T) to: I had it, I removed it, and the bike is still riding the same...
I'll send them all the pics what was removed, and what the injection looks like now...

Cheers

P.S. - Something just crossed my mind... Is it needed to RESET a CPU after the inlet washers (diffusers) are removed? I didn't do that, anyway - the MIL shows no warning...[/b]
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p0peye
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PostPosted: 10:34 - 06 Jul 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

anyway - this is the picture of the set EVERYBODY is talking about:

http://img186.imageshack.us/img186/8233/leistungsredzu25kw.th.jpg

Now - I removed the washers (diffusers), and the cable limiter was never inserted - or was removed before I got the bike...

Cheers...
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carlperkins00...
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PostPosted: 11:01 - 06 Jul 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

hmm... yeah that is a confusing situation you are in isn't it...

i dont know how to reset a CDI unit but that may make a difference so its worth giving it a go. if not...

you could take your bike to a garage and explain the problem that you have de-restricted it yourself and it's not running as fast as it should. they will be able to look over the bike and hopefully identify the problem.

if you are on a restricted licence then dont worry because they wont ask you to show your licence, but if they do... they wont care.

it may be nothing to do with the restrictor kit, it may be a mechanical fault in the bike.
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chris-red
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PostPosted: 13:38 - 06 Jul 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

carlperkins001 wrote:
hmm... yeah that is a confusing situation you are in isn't it...

i dont know how to reset a CDI unit but that may make a difference so its worth giving it a go. if not...

you could take your bike to a garage and explain the problem that you have de-restricted it yourself and it's not running as fast as it should. they will be able to look over the bike and hopefully identify the problem.

if you are on a restricted licence then dont worry because they wont ask you to show your licence, but if they do... they wont care.

it may be nothing to do with the restrictor kit, it may be a mechanical fault in the bike.


This only way I can think of reseting a cdi unit is to take the battery out for an hour or so.
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p0peye
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PostPosted: 14:07 - 06 Jul 2009    Post subject: F4i PGM-FI Self Diagnostic Reset Procedure Reply with quote

Self Diagnostic Reset Procedure

1. Turn the engine stop switch to "RUN" and the ignition switch to "OFF".
2. Short the service check connector of the PGM-FI system using a jumper wire.
3. Turn the ignition switch to "ON".
4. Remove the jumper wire from the service check connector.
5. The MIL lights about 5 seconds.
While the indicator lights, short the service check connector again with the jump wire.
Self diagnostic memory data is erased if the MIL turns off and then start blinking
- The service check connector must be jumped while the indicator lights. If not - the MIL will not start blinking.
- Note that self diagnostic memory data cannot be erased if you turn off the ignition switch before the MIL starts blinking.

If the MIL blinks 20 times, the data has not been erased, so try again.
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Noxious89123
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PostPosted: 18:36 - 06 Jul 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

p0peye wrote:
Hey, Noxious - no way you typed in all that stuff for a foreign guy?!? I hope you just had an electronic form of it and did the copy / paste?!?

If not - I'll have to buy the XXXXXXXL bear if we ever meet (just "thank you" somehow seems not enough - that goes for all of you trying to help me Smile )

You can always just click that little Thumbs Up Rate post button Smile

The thanks is appreciated, as it took bloody ages to type Laughing

Are you 1,000,000% sure there isn't a throttl stop restriction? Maybe it's not fitted where your looking for it?

Looking at the twist grip, from fully closed to fully open, how many turns (or part turns) does it open? 1/4? 1/2?

I'll have a look see how many degrees of turn I get on my bike...

EDIT: Should be atleast 1/4 turn from closed to open Smile

Also, why not try getting the ECM off the bike, and checking the part number on it?

According to the MicroFiche for the CBR600F4 HERE It should be part number 38770-MBW-A12 or 38770-MBW-L11

Although, neither of those part numbers brings anything up on David Silvers...
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p0peye
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PostPosted: 08:04 - 07 Jul 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Noxious89123 wrote:

You can always just click that little Thumbs Up Rate post button Smile

I did it, and nothing happens.
Am I supposed to see anything when I click on it or is it processed in the background? Confused
Quote:

Are you 1,000,000% sure there isn't a throttl stop restriction?
Looking at the twist grip, from fully closed to fully open, how many turns (or part turns) does it open? 1/4? 1/2?
I'll have a look see how many degrees of turn I get on my bike...
EDIT: Should be atleast 1/4 turn from closed to open Smile

I'll have to check the next time I get to garage (I parked the bike few weeks ago at my best friends garage, 15km from my place, and it is raining almost all the time) and I'll check it.
However - I doubt it is limited, as you can see from these pics:

http://img26.imageshack.us/img26/8985/090513cbrinjfullopen01.th.jpg

http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/8245/090513cbrinjfullopen02.th.jpg

the butterfly valves are fully open (or am I wrong?)
Quote:

Also, why not try getting the ECM off the bike, and checking the part number on it?

As the matter of fact, I came accross the same idea yesterday, and I went to the garage and took the pic of it (unfortunatly, it didn't cross my mind to measure the grip angle as well - although I was wondering what else could I check... Sad )

and here it is:

38770-MBW-D31
Pgm FI ECU CDI
Keihin ED2
9650-100484

and the pic - just in case someone need the barcode Wink

http://img142.imageshack.us/img142/7015/f4iecupartno.th.jpg
Quote:

According to the MicroFiche for the CBR600F4 HERE It should be part number 38770-MBW-A12 or 38770-MBW-L11

Although, neither of those part numbers brings anything up on David Silvers...


I don't know hwo the "David Silvers" is ( - I don't listen the Rock music Wink ) but as I snooped around a bit, I found that these are the US ECUs, and they are not coded.
One can swap them between the bikes freely, with out key match problem.
Now - somewhere on the net I run into a (EU - I think it was Sweden) post saying that this guy tried to put A12 ECU in his EU bike (having HISS), and he couldn't start it... Sad

So - I suppose I should concentrate on figuring out what is my ECU predicted for...
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p0peye
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PostPosted: 08:25 - 07 Jul 2009    Post subject: Can anyone write here their ECU part no (110hp F4i)? Reply with quote

Can anyone write here their ECU part no (110hp F4i)?
- so I could know what to look for...

Just in case - here are some more info:

'01 Honda CBR 600 F Sport
chassis no: JH2PC35G11M209...
it is a Europian model, with HISS.

My moral can't get any lower as I search the net:

.......................................................................................
So here's some info on the limitation of the CBR 34cv.
All these data are valid in Spain but I do not know what is happening in other countries. However, the difference, if any, should not be.
Details of parts to install:

91-95 PC25 ...
96-98 PC31 ...

99-00 PC35 intake manifold 16210-MBW-690
Air Filter 17210-MBW-690

01-05 PC35 intake manifold 16210-MBW-D30
CDI 38770-MBW-D31

05 PC37 ..........
...................................................................................
The google translate is not so mighty - I don't understand this:
PC35G version (FS or Sport) is not limited according to Honda, but it is a marketing argument ... and they do not accept that these bikes are limited, which also includes ...

from:
http://translate.google.com/translate?js=n&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.forum-auto.com%2Fmoto%2Fsection24%2Fsujet161755-595.htm&sl=fr&tl=en&history_state0=

also, we should all understand this:
......................................................................................
"LIMITACIÓN POTENCIA 25 kW:

CBR600F1 PC35 25KW 2001
38770-MBW-D31 Unidad de encendido 1 x 533,77
35121-MBW-601 Llaves 2 x 23,69 = 47,38
16210-MBW-D30 Tobera de admisión 4 x 33,99 = 135,96
Total €:717,11
........................................................................................
from:
http://209.85.135.132/search?q=cache:eUXNlyn01icJ:www.anotaproject.com/motosimpala/Arxius/Limitaciones_PDF.pdf+38770-MBW-D31&cd=1&hl=sr&ct=clnk&gl=rs

And if google translates:

Unidad de encendido: ECU
Llaves: Keys
Tobera de admisión: Intake nozzle,

All is clear - I think that we have the - not so lucky - winner... Sad Sad Sad Sad

Thank you all for your help...
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Noxious89123
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PostPosted: 18:36 - 07 Jul 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

So basically, the ECU is restricted because of where the bike was bought? That sucks hardcore.

David Silvers is a website over here that sells / sources all Genuine Honda parts at less cost than Honda themselves Smile

His website has the option of searching for parts via the part # which is rather useful, as you can order parts that aren't shown on the website or aren't in stock.

Just for what it's worth, that ECU # you listed is shown as discontinued. I can't give the part # for a full powered ECU, as my bike is running carbs, not PGM-FI.

Oh, and the Thumbs Up button should open a little window, but don't worry about it Thumbs Up Smile

And yes, the butterfly is fully open in those pics.

Don't know if you'd be able o buy stuff from him and get it sent to you, where ever it is you are, but here is the website anyways.

https://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/

He can usually get hold of most parts, sometimes ordering them direct from Honda in Japan. Send them an email maybe? They're very helpful Smile
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'06 Honda CBR125RW-6 ~ '00 Honda CBR600F-Y ~ '07 Honda CBR600RR-7
'53 Ford Ka 1.3 ~ '03 Vauxhall Astra SRi 1.8 ~ '52 Vauxhall Astra SRi 2.2 (Needs boost!)
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p0peye
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PostPosted: 10:21 - 08 Jul 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Noxious89123 wrote:
So basically, the ECU is restricted because of where the bike was bought? That sucks hardcore.

Yeah - tell me about it... Sad
Quote:

His website has the option of searching for parts via the part # which is rather useful, as you can order parts that aren't shown on the website or aren't in stock.

Thanks for the tip, I'll ask them as well if they can give me some useful info, but I was wondering if there is a seller in EU with a micro fishe pictures - something like
http://www.motosport.com/street/oem.php?make=HONDA&type=SPORT&model=CBR600F4&year=2002&groupId=52361
(the little problem is they have parts just for US models, and although most parts are the same - this ECU is not... Sad )
There I could at least find the part number for a full powered ECU...
Quote:


Just for what it's worth, that ECU # you listed is shown as discontinued. I can't give the part # for a full powered ECU, as my bike is running carbs, not PGM-FI.

Yes, I just found out this my self, also...
I am a bit surprised no one replied with their part number, though...
Well - let's give people some time... Smile
Quote:

Oh, and the Thumbs Up button should open a little window, but don't worry about it Thumbs Up Smile

I did that, but when I click on a thumb up - nothing happens. the little window is still there - just as if I didn't clicl at all... Sad
Quote:

He can usually get hold of most parts, sometimes ordering them direct from Honda in Japan. Send them an email maybe? They're very helpful Smile

Yes, I'll definitely write them my sad story... And ask them if they can point me in right direction even if they can't help me (maybe to give me some contact e-mail from Honda...

Thanks for helping, again. Thumbs Up

P.s. - I am reading again your post where Haynes describes how to code new keys to ECU, and it is not clear if I have to get the pre-matched ECU and keys, or can I code ANY key with ANY ECU?
("28. Obtain a new ICU/ECM along with two (or more if you want) new keys.")
It says 2 new keys, but it also says "or more if you want" - so - can I technically buy just another (used) ECU, and code my keys with it according described procedure? (you don't have to type all that staff - just a brief info would be nice - if you can find anything in Haynes. Thanks... )
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Noxious89123
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PostPosted: 20:11 - 08 Jul 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Any keys can be coded to work with any ECU.

BUT the coding proceedure I listed from Haynes only applies to a brand new, ECU that currently has *no* keys encoded.

A second hand ECU will need atleast 1 working coded key, to be able to code any more into that ECU. (which will also require a special tool). And you'd also need the ignition switch that the key fits. D'oh Sad

So brand new, you just need the ECU and some key blanks.
Second hand you'll need the ECU, atleast one working key and the lockset to match it.

The only alternative i can think of would be to get a key cut for your current locks, and then cut off the black part of the key with the chip in it. This leaves you with the metal part of the key for urning on the igniton switch. You can then hold the "new" second hand key near to the ignition, to work with the ECU transponder whatsit.
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'53 Ford Ka 1.3 ~ '03 Vauxhall Astra SRi 1.8 ~ '52 Vauxhall Astra SRi 2.2 (Needs boost!)
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p0peye
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Joined: 27 Nov 2007
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PostPosted: 15:52 - 10 Jul 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Noxious89123 wrote:
The only alternative i can think of would be to get a key cut for your current locks, and then cut off the black part of the key with the chip in it. This leaves you with the metal part of the key for urning on the igniton switch. You can then hold the "new" second hand key near to the ignition, to work with the ECU transponder whatsit.


Say... What do you think - will it be possible to ask some bike-friend who's riding the same bike to borrow his ECU and jack it in my jacks, and then start the bike with my key, and his key just near the HISS reader (on the same ring with my key - perhaps?)

This would be one small step forward from this darkness - I will be able to know if the certain ECU (with the certain part number) will do the work for me.

Right now, I am looking at eBay, and I found an '01 F4i ECU for just 89 €, but the guy is not answering me (if he has a keys also, and what is the ECU part no...) Sad

One another is 200 € (I saw the scaned papers, says it has 81kW, with part no 38770-MBW-D41, all together with set of locks and the key) - And I might just say "goodbye" to 200€, if I only could be sure it will work on my bike... Sad
The rest are out of my league (or may I say - I am out of theirs Sad ): 400+€

P.s. - I think I'll just start another post asking where to find info what part could fit my bike...
http://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?p=2239453#2239453
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Noxious89123
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PostPosted: 19:33 - 10 Jul 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

The problem is that you would *need* to destroy a key by removing the black plastic part that contains the transponder.

Ie. One of YOUR keys for your bikes ignition lock *without* it's black plastic part + transponder

The friends key with the transponder to pu near the ignition + the matching ECU.

If you put 2 keys on the same keyring, or even just near to each other, they will jam one another, the HISS won't dis-arm and the bike won't fire.

For the cost of getting a key cut though, it might be worth ago.

You might even be able to get a key to fit the lock that doesn't have a transpinder in it?

You could always do the whole lot and "borrow" the ignition switch, key and ECU from a donor bike to test? That would take alot more work to do though.

I don't know if you could maybe use the friends key to get past the immobiliser (with their ECU), and then just hotwire the ignition switch? Don't know how to do it, and ofcourse it comes with the risk of damaging the wiring loom or oher stuff.
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'06 Honda CBR125RW-6 ~ '00 Honda CBR600F-Y ~ '07 Honda CBR600RR-7
'53 Ford Ka 1.3 ~ '03 Vauxhall Astra SRi 1.8 ~ '52 Vauxhall Astra SRi 2.2 (Needs boost!)
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