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Alexio's CG and Air Filter (please help?)

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Alexio
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PostPosted: 21:14 - 29 Jan 2010    Post subject: Alexio's CG and Air Filter (please help?) Reply with quote

So, was poking around my bike today, trying to better understand her and possibly fix some of her problems (gets bogged down). This is what I found. Firstly, I managed to find the bikes original tool kit!!!!! Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy

https://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a27/alsweetex/CG/DSC00430.jpg

https://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a27/alsweetex/CG/DSC00431.jpg

https://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a27/alsweetex/CG/DSC00432.jpg

There's a space on the other side where I thought it would have resided but was empty, so I always assumed I was just never given it. It looks like it's been in there since 2004, was moulded in to it's shape and there is light corrosion. I'm fascinated to know all of the tools do though. Can anyone help me out?

Right, next is my air filter. I eventually managed to get to it only to find that it looks completely dry. This would certain explain my terrible engine performance.

https://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a27/alsweetex/CG/DSC00433.jpg

Worse is the oily mess which I am about to show you after what I assume is 22k of miles:

https://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a27/alsweetex/CG/DSC00434.jpg

https://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a27/alsweetex/CG/DSC00436.jpg

What do I do? Do I need to just buy a new air filter? Can I mop up this mess and then apply some oil to the dry air filter? I need to be back on the road tomorrow!
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will never give up his CG. I look at my fuel gauge more as a progress bar than a fuel gauge.
G: With my GSXR I do often effectively use it as a scooter with a clutch in town.
ms51ves3: why does it need 500 miles? Are you teaching it how to be a piston?
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Ichy
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PostPosted: 22:04 - 29 Jan 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just clean up the oil. No idea why you think you need to oil the filter? TTBOMK most OEM filters are dry. Its the aftermarket stuff such as K&N that require oiling.
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Alexio
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PostPosted: 22:11 - 29 Jan 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ichy wrote:
Just clean up the oil. No idea why you think you need to oil the filter? TTBOMK most OEM filters are dry. Its the aftermarket stuff such as K&N that require oiling.


So where did the oil come from in the first place? If the filter is supposed to be dry I'm pretty sure that mine needs replacing anyway Sad

I just thought that most air filters had oil in them which sticks to the bits of dirt that come in through the air. By that logic I could apply some more oil and it would be ok until I find a proper replacement.
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will never give up his CG. I look at my fuel gauge more as a progress bar than a fuel gauge.
G: With my GSXR I do often effectively use it as a scooter with a clutch in town.
ms51ves3: why does it need 500 miles? Are you teaching it how to be a piston?
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P.
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PostPosted: 23:21 - 29 Jan 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

my new "fresh" air filter for the 500 was kinda oily looking, no idea what its like now, tank wont budge Razz
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Alexio
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PostPosted: 23:30 - 29 Jan 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

The only thing I've managed to find online is that pre-electric start models (not mine) had foam that you cleaned once in a while and applied more oil. Mine is a paper air filter that I was encouraged to "use a vacuum cleaner" to clean out Confused but I'm sure my paper had oil in it, which is where all that oily mess came from because I can't think where on earth the oil would come from otherwise and how just paper could possibly act as a filter for air.

I just wanted some confirmation and anecdotal evidence of attempting to add further oil to this weird paper type air filter.
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will never give up his CG. I look at my fuel gauge more as a progress bar than a fuel gauge.
G: With my GSXR I do often effectively use it as a scooter with a clutch in town.
ms51ves3: why does it need 500 miles? Are you teaching it how to be a piston?
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Ichy
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PostPosted: 23:36 - 29 Jan 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paper filter are generally dry. The question to ask is where the water came from. Laughing
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Alexio
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PostPosted: 23:44 - 29 Jan 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

It was oily and it was dirty Razz if it really is just supposed to be dry though, it could have come from that metal looking thing below the actual air intake to the carb. It looks like some overflow? It's connected to a pipe that goes somewhere towards the top of the engine, I haven't followed it yet. I'm pretty damn sure that it's oil though, it was sticky and smelt like oil. If it was water I'm pretty sure that it all would have eventually evaporated and gone through in to the engine.

And however much it looks like it, now it was NOT pancake batter Laughing

Oh, and I'm still curious to know what some of those tools are for. Karma Karma will be rewarded Thumbs Up
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will never give up his CG. I look at my fuel gauge more as a progress bar than a fuel gauge.
G: With my GSXR I do often effectively use it as a scooter with a clutch in town.
ms51ves3: why does it need 500 miles? Are you teaching it how to be a piston?
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Howling Terror
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PostPosted: 23:50 - 29 Jan 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Its a paper filter not the oil-filled sponge type so give it a brush and a tap until you get a new one.
Wipe up the oil/water emulsion that has accumulated. Spray wd40 on a rag and wipe the airbox. Make sure your breather pipes are clean and not mangled at the exit where they sometimes get blocked.

Your tools will allow you to change a wheel. Set your preload and many more things with nuts and screws.

Pat
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Last edited by Howling Terror on 23:54 - 29 Jan 2010; edited 1 time in total
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The Artist
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PostPosted: 23:53 - 29 Jan 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pipe is probably a crankcase breather pipe and oil over the years has spurted up the tube into the airbox.

Mine gets a little oil in over time. Not that much though. The water is probably from rain or something. I would check your actual engine oil and see if is that creamy colour. If it is it means it has water in which is bad.
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Robby
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PostPosted: 23:54 - 29 Jan 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do not oil a paper filter. You'll just get a soggy paper filter.

You oil foam filters, you just replace paper filters.

Mop up the oil, and buy a new air filter. Stop worrying.

The oil there does look quite scummy and emulsified, but if it has sat there for a while and repeatedly warmed and cooled that is understandable. The oil comes from the crankcase breather, and some oil accumulation is normal, you clean it out when you change the air filter.
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Alexio
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PostPosted: 00:01 - 30 Jan 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why thank you both very much Smile Very Happy Cool Mr. Green Karma Thumbs Up

I've mopped up the oil and I know I can just put it all back together again now. As for if the paper (which is very dry) needs to be replaced yet I don't know, but then it doesn't look like it's saturated with dirt or anything so I'll keep on using it for a little bit at least.

Well if the oil wasn't from the air filter it means it probably wasn't causing any performance issues which means there's still something slightly wrong, but thanks for helping me clarify this one Thumbs Up

allymoss tells me that tool number 5 is some sort of flywheel holder or holds something to stop it spinning Thumbs Up now what on earth 4 does I've no idea. Some sort of rectangular tube Confused
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will never give up his CG. I look at my fuel gauge more as a progress bar than a fuel gauge.
G: With my GSXR I do often effectively use it as a scooter with a clutch in town.
ms51ves3: why does it need 500 miles? Are you teaching it how to be a piston?
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.Chris.
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PostPosted: 00:04 - 30 Jan 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paper filters don't need oiling as the paper is dense enough to trap any muck. Oiling one will just clog it up and make engine performance even worse.

The pipe connecting the airbox is the engine breather pipe for the positive crankcase ventilation system. The idea is that the engine breathes in its own oil fumes, which also creates negative pressure in the crankcase, helping to reduce oil leaks.
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Howling Terror
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PostPosted: 00:05 - 30 Jan 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

The crooked spanner shaped like a G is for using on your rear springs, you'll use the hollow rectangle tube as an extention bar.

Pat
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Alexio
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PostPosted: 00:31 - 30 Jan 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a feeling that one of those tools would have made my tire changing experience FAR easier had I have known it was there. Oh well, never mind! I'm pretty sure I understand all of that now so thanks everybody. Oh, and by extension bar do you mean it goes where the handle bars attach to make the handle bars taller or?...
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will never give up his CG. I look at my fuel gauge more as a progress bar than a fuel gauge.
G: With my GSXR I do often effectively use it as a scooter with a clutch in town.
ms51ves3: why does it need 500 miles? Are you teaching it how to be a piston?
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Howling Terror
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PostPosted: 00:39 - 30 Jan 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

As tempting as it looks, don't use anything from that toolkit for changeing tyres, they'll bend Smile Unless its an all or nothing situation of course.
The extension sleeve fits over the tools with the rounded ends. It gives extra leverage when doing wheel nuts etc.

Pat
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Singer songwriter, Artist and allround good bloke Listen to Andrew Susan Johnston here
The Harry Turner Project
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reggie
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PostPosted: 02:19 - 30 Jan 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

shouldent your the air box have a place for water-oil to drain ?
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Alexio
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PostPosted: 02:50 - 30 Jan 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

reggie wrote:
shouldent your the air box have a place for water-oil to drain ?


Why yes, there is indeed a small sealed tube about half an inch long that goes no where at the bottom. I assume this is to collect a minimal amount of oil and provide a drainage point. I had no knowledge of any of this before I decided to have a look around inside though, and there was an awful lot of oil in there. If I had of just opened it up that pipe though because someone told me, I'm sure a LOT more oil would have come out than I was expecting and it would have gone everywhere. Not to mention the dirty residue left inside by that oil attaching it's self to dirt particles in the air. Really it was best that I gave it a good clean. Plus now I know lots more about maintaining a bike from this aspect.
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will never give up his CG. I look at my fuel gauge more as a progress bar than a fuel gauge.
G: With my GSXR I do often effectively use it as a scooter with a clutch in town.
ms51ves3: why does it need 500 miles? Are you teaching it how to be a piston?
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herulach
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PostPosted: 20:18 - 19 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Those breather tubes apparently fill up faster if you only use it for short journeys. Theres nothing stopping you extending it with a suitable bit of hose if you find yourself having to empty it very often
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Alexio
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PostPosted: 20:58 - 19 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

herulach wrote:
Those breather tubes apparently fill up faster if you only use it for short journeys. Theres nothing stopping you extending it with a suitable bit of hose if you find yourself having to empty it very often


It's a good idea, but I haven't even bothered to look in my airbox since when I started this thread. I almost dare not for fear I will find something similar again Laughing Thumbs Up
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will never give up his CG. I look at my fuel gauge more as a progress bar than a fuel gauge.
G: With my GSXR I do often effectively use it as a scooter with a clutch in town.
ms51ves3: why does it need 500 miles? Are you teaching it how to be a piston?
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neil.
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PostPosted: 20:59 - 19 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok those tools, from what I know... (from top to bottom)

1. Spark plug box spanner

2/3. No idea.

4. Extension bar

5. C spanner possibly for steering head bearing adjustment and rear shock preload adjustment.

6/7/8. Various spanners for various fasteners.

Blast your air filter paper bit with compressed air. Om nom nom.
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neil.
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PostPosted: 21:05 - 19 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nah those tool kits are really nasty, you'll just end up rounding off everything you try to undo with them!
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Mudskipper
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PostPosted: 21:21 - 19 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

neil. wrote:
Ok those tools, from what I know... (from top to bottom)

1. Spark plug box spanner

2/3. No idea.

4. Extension bar

5. C spanner possibly for steering head bearing adjustment and rear shock preload adjustment.

6/7/8. Various spanners for various fasteners.

Blast your air filter paper bit with compressed air. Om nom nom.


(2) and (3) are screwdrivers. You stick them through the holes in (1) to act like a t-bar driver.
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