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Removing fork internals - problem.

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tvr321
Nitrous Nuisance



Joined: 20 Sep 2009
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PostPosted: 19:40 - 12 Feb 2010    Post subject: Removing fork internals - problem. Reply with quote

Hi BCF, I need your help with a problem I am having.

I am changing the fork seals on a Kawa ER-5.

The caps are held on by circlips, only the caps seem to have gone a bit rusty and have "bonded" with the interior of the stantion, meaning that when I remove the circlips, they do not spring out like they should.

One of the forks just needed a bit of encouragement from a punch and hammer to break it's bond, but the other is proving to be a nightmare.

No matter what I have tried, it just does not want to come out.
I don't want to beat it anymore with a hammer in case it wedges itself further inside the stantion.
I have soaked it for a couple of hours inside WD40, but to no avail.
I have even gone as far as to heat up the exterior of the stantion, in the hope that the cap will spring out as it cools.


Any other ideas? This is a real PITA.

Many thanks for any help BCF.
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Damon
World Chat Champion



Joined: 24 Aug 2007
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PostPosted: 21:29 - 12 Feb 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

It might be worth replacing if they are really that bad IMO
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Pete.
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Joined: 22 Aug 2006
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PostPosted: 22:03 - 12 Feb 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just beat it in with a sacrificial drift. As you bash it further inside the spring will put more and more force on the cap. Eventually it will start reciprocating and even before that you can clean the inside of the stanchion with some emery so that when it starts moving it'll come out easier.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 22:15 - 12 Feb 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you clamp it back in the yoke. You can get a 2-leg puller under the edges of the yoke and screw it down onto the "dimple" in the middle of the plug. This should push the plug down far enough to allow you to clean the grot out.

That, or put a big bit of wood over the end of the stanchion, rest the other end on a second bit of wood and whale on it with a lumphammer until it submits.

Or soak it in vinegar.

Or soak it in diesel.

Or try electrolysis.
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tvr321
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Joined: 20 Sep 2009
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PostPosted: 23:21 - 12 Feb 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Just beat it in with a sacrificial drift. As you bash it further inside the spring will put more and more force on the cap. Eventually it will start reciprocating and even before that you can clean the inside of the stanchion with some emery so that when it starts moving it'll come out easier.


See, after I got the other fork apart, I felt inside the stantion with my finger, and it looks like this:

https://i47.tinypic.com/200dzl2.jpg

So I'm afraid that if I beat it further, it well wedge itself in there permanently and I'll never get it out.
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tvr321
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Joined: 20 Sep 2009
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PostPosted: 15:07 - 13 Feb 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

And I was wondering if the GPZ 500 forks are identical to the ER-5's? As they are very cheap to buy.
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Tarmacsurfer
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Joined: 29 Jun 2004
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PostPosted: 15:31 - 13 Feb 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

As the ever erudite Stinkwheel suggests, Diesel works wonders Thumbs Up
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tvr321
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Joined: 20 Sep 2009
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PostPosted: 19:38 - 13 Feb 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Put is back together today. I never took the cap off and just guesstimated the amount of oil to put back in.

On fork is stiffer than the other, but oh well, it was never a race chassis.
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ZRX61
Victor Meldrew



Joined: 05 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: 23:08 - 13 Feb 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

The first mistake was going in through the top, instead of just removing the bolt at the bottom & sliding the forks apart.... (after you remove the circlip above the seal)
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The last post was made 14 years, 46 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful?
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