USD forks. can i?

[MaybeGuy]

can i remove the ends of the forks and replace them with others? if so, how? is it a press fit or whatever?

ive never stripped USD forks before, so dont really know what to expect. theres a single bolt directly upwards, and will i be able to remove the end by just removing that bolt?

at the moment for my mito 350 i've got a set of evo forks that dont fit, a set of fucked MK2 forks that fit but are pitted like mad, and a set of cagiva raptor forks.

all of which fit in the yokes, the raptor ones are the perfect length, and if i could swap my MK2 ends with the raptor ones, would fit perfectly.

https://img26.imageshack.us/img26/5990/mitorebuild05low.jpg

EDIT: i think they might be screwed on, but how the hell are you supposed to grip the stanctions to stop them turning?
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Blue_SV650S wrote: it was a sh1te wheelie, but it proves that he can get it up in 3rd and can do angles. In summery, mattsprattuk is a gobby little sh1tebag, dopehead tw4t, but sadly for all of us, he probably isn't THAT full of sh1te!!
Kickstart wrote: Hi I tend to agree with Matt. All the best Keith

[ms51ves3]

[MaybeGuy]

they're all good and everything, but even the leather/textile ones dont hold up to much stress.
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Blue_SV650S wrote: it was a sh1te wheelie, but it proves that he can get it up in 3rd and can do angles. In summery, mattsprattuk is a gobby little sh1tebag, dopehead tw4t, but sadly for all of us, he probably isn't THAT full of sh1te!!
Kickstart wrote: Hi I tend to agree with Matt. All the best Keith

[Kickstart]

Hi

Have a feeling that the bottom clamps have a thread for the stanchions to screw into. However the manuals don't tend to show them as separate pieces.

There are a few companies who make replacement lowers for those who want to fit radial calipers to older bikes with USD forks.

All the best

Keith
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Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing

[MaybeGuy]

i hope you're right. i'll have a go unscrewing them on monday.

im thinking clamp the stanctions in a vice using soft jaws, then try and crank it off using some big fuckoff F spanners.

reasons for thinking its threaded are that in the fork end itsself, remove the plastic mudguard mounts and underneath it has a blind hole. almost as if a pin spanner was used.

if this works, it solves one hell of a lot of my front suspension issues.

HOWEVER

would i need to take off the bottom bolt to remove them? ie: the bolt you take out to separate the forks?
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Blue_SV650S wrote: it was a sh1te wheelie, but it proves that he can get it up in 3rd and can do angles. In summery, mattsprattuk is a gobby little sh1tebag, dopehead tw4t, but sadly for all of us, he probably isn't THAT full of sh1te!!
Kickstart wrote: Hi I tend to agree with Matt. All the best Keith

[Kickstart]

Hi

Would expect so.

They need to remove the lowers when rechroming forks, so possibly worth having a google round for that.

All the best

Keith
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Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing

[MaybeGuy]

last one before i give it a go... just to be sure...
oil will piss out if i take this bolt out right?

just thinking whether or not to do a full fork rebuild. because i may as well if the oil will get disturbed during this.
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Blue_SV650S wrote: it was a sh1te wheelie, but it proves that he can get it up in 3rd and can do angles. In summery, mattsprattuk is a gobby little sh1tebag, dopehead tw4t, but sadly for all of us, he probably isn't THAT full of sh1te!!
Kickstart wrote: Hi I tend to agree with Matt. All the best Keith

[Kickstart]

Hi

Take that bolt out or the bottoms off the forks and I would expect fork oil to pee out everywhere.

All the best

Keith
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Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing

[MaybeGuy]

smashing. cheers for that kickdawg.
if im feeling lazy, ill take it out with the forks upside down.
but i guess id better get some seals and oil.
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Blue_SV650S wrote: it was a sh1te wheelie, but it proves that he can get it up in 3rd and can do angles. In summery, mattsprattuk is a gobby little sh1tebag, dopehead tw4t, but sadly for all of us, he probably isn't THAT full of sh1te!!
Kickstart wrote: Hi I tend to agree with Matt. All the best Keith

[steven_191]

i started stripping my USD's today and that bottom bolt doesnt seal any oil in. all the oil comes out from the top seal.

therefore the bottom bolt must only be for removing that bottom part. i thought it was pressed on and the bolt to retain it but could be just as likely threaded.

and yeah, that bottom part does look like it has a few grooves in for the spanner that you might use to adjust the rear shock rings.

[R0dger112]

I have just stripped and rebuilt 1100m usd forks, bottom leg needs windy gun to remove the bottom bolt, you will really struggle otherwise, in the ones i did there is also a grub screw that needs taking out with heat, loctited in. Once you have got the outer sleeve off the fork and got rid of the oil, and seals. Then you can work on getting the bottom leg off. You will need a vice, blow torch and decent screwdriver. There is a hole in the top of the stancion whre the screwdriver or decent bar to go through, put bottom leg into vice, apply the blow torch let it get hot, then turn the stancion. Keep it heated while turning, eventually it will come. Not an easy job but can be done. This is what i did to the usd,s from 1100 m

Good luck

[MaybeGuy]