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Valve Clearances Fazer 600

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slightlytasty
Two Stroke Sniffer



Joined: 02 Jan 2008
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PostPosted: 07:28 - 09 Apr 2010    Post subject: Valve Clearances Fazer 600 Reply with quote
I'm not a total dumbass when it comes to bike mechanics - I understand the basics of 4 stoke engines, but I've never had the importance of valve clearances explained to me. My 2003 Fazer 600 is on 30k miles. Yamaha recommend valve clearance check at 28k. How necessary is this? The engine is running smooth and sweet.

I don't really know how important checking the clearances is. Will a tappety rattle make it obvious when something is wrong, so I can ignore them, or is it important to check them anyway?

I'm very mean with both time and money, I wouldn't be doing it myself as I've a good value bike mechanics nearby. Do I need spend some cash and get them to check them?

Thanks,
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Itchy
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Joined: 07 Apr 2005
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PostPosted: 07:38 - 09 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote
I'm of the ignore it camp, tbh, in that I've done them but it was a PITA to do taking a fair bit of time. A fellow biker round here did it and dropped a shim into the engine, tore the bike engine apart and ruined the bike.

On older bikes no problem lock nut adjuster, but newer bikes you need to take the bike apart before you know what shims you need which is a problem if the bike is your only transport.

But really its the taking apart that incurrs the labour cost, in that for CBR girl who lives nearby she convinced me to strip the bike down before letting peter take it to do the actual valve jobbie. He then bought it back partially assembled and I put it back together for her.
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Stowelly
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Joined: 25 Oct 2009
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PostPosted: 07:42 - 09 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote
Just bought a TDM thats due its 24k check of this. is it really that much of a pain in the arse? seen packs of all the dif sizes of shims for about 60 quid. would it be worth buying this just in case. then getting someone to do it all at once just to save time?
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Itchy
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Joined: 07 Apr 2005
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PostPosted: 07:51 - 09 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote
Stowelly wrote:
Just bought a TDM thats due its 24k check of this. is it really that much of a pain in the arse? seen packs of all the dif sizes of shims for about 60 quid. would it be worth buying this just in case. then getting someone to do it all at once just to save time?


Depends how valuable your time vs money is, in that you can swap shims around when you've got the bike in pieces.

As said it is mostly just getting to them that it a PITA, i.e. on the CBR, the side fairings have to come off, then the seat then the tank cover, then the tank, then the carbs then the rad to get to the CCT. Then the timing cap cover on the side.

Stick a socket onto it,

Then you undo the cylinder head, then you turn over the engine with the socket turning to the marks for each valve, measuring with a feeler guage twice. With the TDM its 10 valves, with the CBR its 16, with the Yam R1 its 20 (the NR750 has a ridiculous 32 valves).

Then you calculate the shim needed on an excel sheet keith or Geri has lying about, then you switch them around then go to the shop and buy the ones you don't have. Then you put it back together careful not to drop shims into the engine. Then you put it together carefully.

Then you pray you've done it right, as if you haven't it means taking the bike apart again and looking for what you've done wrong.


makes me tired just thinking about it.
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Stowelly
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Joined: 25 Oct 2009
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PostPosted: 08:42 - 09 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote
Ouch, sounds tedious! and knowing my luck ill end up with an engine full of them

think I may just get some quotes off of mechanics!

what is the worst possible scenario if I was to just leave it?

(sorry to hijack the thread, but im pretty sure this is all relevant to the OP's question)
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smegballs
World Chat Champion



Joined: 28 Oct 2007
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PostPosted: 09:12 - 09 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote
Stowelly wrote:
Ouch, sounds tedious! and knowing my luck ill end up with an engine full of them

think I may just get some quotes off of mechanics!

what is the worst possible scenario if I was to just leave it?

(sorry to hijack the thread, but im pretty sure this is all relevant to the OP's question)


Your valves would eventually start to burn.

As they wear into the head they take up the clearance. When all the clearance is gone it means that the cam is putting a force on the valve even when it is meant to be unloaded.

This stops the valves closing properly and sealing with the head. As the valves are not seating properly the combustion heat cannot dissipate from the steel valves to the alloy head as fast. This causes heat build up and burning of the valves.
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Stowelly
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Joined: 25 Oct 2009
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PostPosted: 10:52 - 09 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote
oh shit!, right seems like something which will need to be addressed then!, what do you think a fair price for a garage to do this work for me is? just so i know im not getting ripped off!

thanks
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Itchy
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Joined: 07 Apr 2005
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PostPosted: 10:59 - 09 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote
Stowelly wrote:
oh shit!, right seems like something which will need to be addressed then!, what do you think a fair price for a garage to do this work for me is? just so i know im not getting ripped off!

thanks


No thats a worse case scenario, however many of us I think Stinkwheel is another one is convinced that such things don't need to be done.

I adjusted the lock nut valves on my NTV sometime around 98000 miles (After negelecting them for about 40000 miles) I thought about adjusting them again at 110000 miles but ignored it and crammed on another 20K miles before thinking about it again.
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Old Thread Alert!

The last post was made 14 years, 47 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful?
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