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Ford ka Clutch Faulty-Yes, i know it ain't a bike! But Help!

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sparkywilliam...
Nitrous Nuisance



Joined: 27 Jan 2010
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PostPosted: 10:30 - 15 Jul 2010    Post subject: Ford ka Clutch Faulty-Yes, i know it ain't a bike! But Help! Reply with quote

Hi ,
A car problem but i thought someone may have come across same problem.
Missus has a 2005 Ford Ka,done 30k,well yesterday she complained she couldn't get into Reverse or down from 4 to 3rd when she was travelling at speed but was able to put her into 2nd & 1st seemed ok.
Any way when you depress the clutch pedal I can hear rattling (which the AA man said was the thrust bearing gone) .
It's in the garage and i will drive it for myself tonight but i wanted to know before booking it into a garage and accepting whatever they say,what simple things should i check? I don't want to get a whole new clutch fitted if i don't have to.
I can put her up on axel stands and look underneath and have the obligatory Haynes manual.
As i understand it,you can drive with the bearings shot for many thousand miles before you need replace but the gear selection problem may either be a coincidence or its linked.
I've attached a pic of what i think is a oil leak near the 'boot' of the selector shaft...Could this be oil from a hydraulic cylinder?

Any help appreciated.
Thanks
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Kickstart
The Oracle



Joined: 04 Feb 2002
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PostPosted: 11:24 - 15 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

From the phot not certain, but that looks more like a gear linkage to the box. Looking online it suggests the Ka clutch slave cylinder is inside the gearbox (which seems like a really stupid idea to me so not convinced it is true).

A thrust bearing can continue to work for a while once it is on the way out. However it will probably be busy cutting its way through the cltuch and will probably fail in style.

All the best

Keith
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stonesie
World Chat Champion



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PostPosted: 12:25 - 15 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

One of Fords less bright ideas is the 'concentric slave cylinder' which IS the release bearing and a pig to change compared to a normal Hydraulic slave cylinder.

http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Ford_Ka_1.3_2005/p/Car-Parts/Transmission/Clutch-and-Associated-Parts/Clutch-Hydraulics/?645590060&1&2da494bf7abfe6544352c7841d3e6e7035761cfb&CCSC

The 'box will have to come off and it would be a good idea to inspect the clutch while your at it (if it's anywhere near worn you will save yourself a lot of labour changing it now), IIRC the KA's are not really prone for linkage problems except the selector shaft seal can leak, that is the cause of the oil leak in the pic you have posted.

I hope that's of some help.
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gixxer4
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 19 May 2010
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PostPosted: 13:14 - 15 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

i would guess the thrust bearing is either on its way out or failing in some decription, as the chap above said only way of confirming problem is to remove the box and once the box is removed i would recommend replacing clutch regardless as 30k is over half the life of a clutch and to buy a thrust bearing on its own and not replace clutch is asking for trouble, anyway and costs a fraction of the labour charges to remove box, guess bout 60-70pounds for a kit. anyway enough of my dribble and gud luck dude Smile
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sparkywilliam...
Nitrous Nuisance



Joined: 27 Jan 2010
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PostPosted: 14:56 - 15 Jul 2010    Post subject: Ka Clutch Reply with quote

ok thanks guys for all your advice.
Too big a job for me as i don't have a pit/lift so i will take it to an independant garage.
Rough ball park for a refurnished clutch fitted?
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Skudd
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Joined: 01 Oct 2006
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PostPosted: 19:46 - 15 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

CHR15 wrote:
about 70 quid for a complete clutch then 60 for that slave cyl / thrust bearing combo thing.

last time i did one it took me about 5 hours from start to finish.


So that will be about 380 then.
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stonesie
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PostPosted: 20:09 - 15 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

That depends on the garage, I did my apprenticeship at a Honda main dealer and I dare not ask how much they would charge, 3 years ago I was working at a small garage in Sheffield and they would charge about 100 labour for that job and not load the parts cost very much.
Also the garage will pay a percentage less for the parts than you can get them for Wink


I do recommend you keep well away from 'reconditioned' clutches....
http://img175.imageshack.us/img175/6236/dscf0041e.jpg
http://img218.imageshack.us/img218/3280/dscf0040k.jpg
http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/9217/dscf0042d.jpg

The 4 rivets on the friction plate were hitting inside the spring plate... It made some interesting noises Shocked

This was on my dad's FIAT and was ''lots of fun''* to do twice, on my back, on the drive Sick Thumbs Down


* Complete fucking ballache. Shocked
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stonesie
World Chat Champion



Joined: 04 Jul 2010
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PostPosted: 20:16 - 15 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Brava 1.6 16v.... I can't slate it too much really, 180K miles and other than that and a rear suspension arm it has been reasonably reliable.
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sparkywilliam...
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Joined: 27 Jan 2010
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PostPosted: 17:20 - 16 Jul 2010    Post subject: Ka Clutch Reply with quote

Been quoted 230 inc for new clutch.
Happy with that so it's going in Thursday.
I hope it last longer than 30k!!

thanks guys.
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crackpotterpi...
Renault 5 Driver



Joined: 15 Nov 2009
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PostPosted: 20:52 - 17 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

I agreee with others on this post the photo is most def the selector shaft oil seal weeping(nothing to worry about) I remember seeing lots of these on the old fiesta box basically the same,get a complete cluth inc release bearing yourself,its a pretty easy job if you have got a good jack and set of axle stands...........just avoid buying a chinese clutch,cheap but crap!! lol
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stonesie
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PostPosted: 22:52 - 17 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

For car clutches you can't go wrong with LUK, Sachs(oem BMW) or Valeo(oem Citroen/Peugeot)

The one pictured above was EBC, very strange as their brakes and bike clutches are first rate Confused
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Noxious89123
World Chat Champion



Joined: 10 Jun 2007
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PostPosted: 23:18 - 17 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

stonesie wrote:
The one pictured above was EBC, very strange as their brakes and bike clutches are first rate Confused

I'd say their brakes were pretty budget bin tbh. I certainly wouldn't buy anything from them again.
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stonesie
World Chat Champion



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PostPosted: 23:32 - 17 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use EBC yellowstuff on the car with ATE discs and it gets semi-regular track day abuse... I prefer them to both freodo and mintex (both more expensive for a decent compound).


Horses for courses though I guess... Wink
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sparkywilliam...
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PostPosted: 12:27 - 31 Aug 2010    Post subject: Ka Clutch-rattling when idle Reply with quote

Guys,
non bike query here but had new clutch fitted not so long ago and from day one,when engines warma and idling i can hear a distinct ratttle from nearside of the engine,it's only when the clutch pedal is up and not depressed.once it's depressed the rattle disappears.i'm concerned it's to do with the mechanic not marrying up the clutch to the engine or something similar.
It;s almost like the sound of the clutch bearings have gone,however he replaced this as its part of the hydraulic slave apparently.
Anyway,i'm going to get him to listen to it but in the meantime i'd like any ideas of what it may be so i know alittle of what it could be.

Thanks
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sparkywilliam...
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PostPosted: 13:20 - 02 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

near 6 months on and when clutch is not depressed there is a distinct rattling noise which wavers and is not of a continous noise.
I know that a bearing type noise is unavoidable when listening to a lot of cars as they idle from the clutch but should i be concerned or anything i can check for.Noise is gone once clutch is depressed and engaged.
I'm wondering if it's a cheap clutch he's fitted,cynically old me.
It cost some 280 incl lab & concentric slave so i couldnt complain at the time as other quotes were silly 400+ jobs.
Any ideas fellas? if not we can live with it till we sell it.
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Gazdaman
I did a trackday!!!



Joined: 12 Aug 2004
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PostPosted: 13:15 - 03 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kickstart wrote:
Hi

From the phot not certain, but that looks more like a gear linkage to the box. Looking online it suggests the Ka clutch slave cylinder is inside the gearbox (which seems like a really stupid idea to me so not convinced it is true).

All the best

Keith


It is on the Fiesta, stupidest design ever. And they're prone to death. Took me bloody ages to drop the gearbox on mine to change it when it went.

God knows what they were thinking.

Sounds like you paid a decent price for the job. It took me roughly 24h in total to do mine, although it was on my back, in the snow, and I managed to kill a CV joint.

Is the rattle definitely coming from the clutch? It's not really unusual, but when the clutch is engaged, everything should be pushing against everything else, so there shouldn't be alot to rattle really.

Last time I had a weird rattle like that it turned out I'd left a spanner under the bonnet.

Gaz
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Robby
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PostPosted: 13:37 - 03 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

The rattle with the car in neutral and the clutch is likely to be due to the bearings on one of the shafts wearing in the gearbox. I forget which shaft, but it's academic seeing as they all need a gearbox strip to change.

Not a massive problem, it will wear and get worse over time but can happily rattle away for tens of thousands of miles, when it finally totally fails you just fit a second hand gearbox.

Try changing the gearbox oil and adding a tube of molyslip, won't make the wear go away but may make it quieter and will give you smoother gearchanges. Be sure to get the gearbox oil spec in the haynes manual, particularly the GL4 or GL5 bit. GL5 is not a "better" spec, it is a different spec.

The rattle shouldn't be linked to the clutch change, unless they drained the box and didn't refill it properly.
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Gazdaman
I did a trackday!!!



Joined: 12 Aug 2004
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PostPosted: 16:31 - 03 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Robby wrote:
The rattle shouldn't be linked to the clutch change, unless they drained the box and didn't refill it properly.


This. Would concern me. Worth a check.

Gaz
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