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YBR125 Clutch Judder Sorted

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Mark65
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Joined: 16 May 2008
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PostPosted: 10:23 - 22 Feb 2011    Post subject: YBR125 Clutch Judder Sorted Reply with quote

Hi all
Well i finally cured my slight cluth judder from starting off in a hot engine, this was an old post a while back as the bike was very low milage at the time, i had tried 2-4 different grades of oil and really put it down to notched clutch basket from the previous owner, any way at xmas when i did nmy chain and sprocket change and swingarm service i lubed the clutch cable and after a day or two the judder was less noticable, so i ordered a new cable and installed it over the weekend, wow a fair bit of difference, it is so light now and no judder even with hot engine, the clutch must be so ligt on these that the slightest bit of friction in the cable is enough to make it stick. I cut the nipple off the old cable and it was still smooth with a few tiny bits of somthing in there, i assume the outer cable has worn and that caused the inner to get stuck a tad in use.
So there we go more knowledge gained, im sure others suggested the cable could be the problem in my original post all that time ago and if they did my apologies for not looking into it as at the time the bike had hardly any milage so i didnt think it could have been the cable.

Mark
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07 Yamaha YBR125, 07 Honda CG125 , 15 CBR300R (Chocolate Crank, Deaded), 16 CB500FA, 19 Honda Forza 300, 70 Suzuki SV650
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Swim41
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Joined: 25 Jul 2006
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PostPosted: 20:53 - 22 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for posting that, my YBR125 does this, a sort of roughness just as the clutch is let all the way out. Never occured to me it would be the cable, I'll have look at the weekend.

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neil.
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Joined: 24 Feb 2008
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PostPosted: 22:17 - 22 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mine has always done it a bit, always seems better when I lube the cable - still on the original one after 36'000 miles! I have never had the clutch cover off the engine - still on the original friction plates as well. What do you lube it with out of interest? I have found 3-in-1 silicone grease (in aerosol can) to work the best on all the control cables and stuff like switches - I revived an intermittent rear brake light switch by soaking it with the stuff and working it in/out for ages! Now it's perfect again and the silicone grease should keep corrosion out too.
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Mark65
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Joined: 16 May 2008
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PostPosted: 11:42 - 23 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi
I lubed it with acf 50, then when it felt better i bought a new cable, but mine only juddered when hot , it was smooth as silk on a cold engine.

https://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140510265152&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

There was only a tiny bit of grit in the old cable, i originally thought notched basket or warped plate(s), but this seems to have cured mine, although it hasnt done any harm and i have just crossed 13k on it, oh and i had to replace the speedo cable as it just died, that was £12.69 from yamaha, i may even drop down to 10w40 oil from the 15w50 i use, dozy me didnt realise i have been using fully syn oil for the past two years lol. I hope it works for yours too.

Mark
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07 Yamaha YBR125, 07 Honda CG125 , 15 CBR300R (Chocolate Crank, Deaded), 16 CB500FA, 19 Honda Forza 300, 70 Suzuki SV650
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chris-red
Have you considered a TDM?



Joined: 21 Sep 2005
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PostPosted: 11:45 - 23 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

May I suggest venhill 'Feather light' cables, probably abit more expensive, I have them on both my bikes, they do make the clutch feel lighter and give a very smooth pull.
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