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KTM WP USD fork service, rough guide.

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Klause
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PostPosted: 18:15 - 22 Feb 2011    Post subject: KTM WP USD fork service, rough guide. Reply with quote

Thought it would be nice to do an offroad biased maintenance guides. As offroad bikes generally need alot more looking after than road bikes. I have a lot of time on my hands at the moment. I can't exactly do a guide at workplace as people might get angry, ha. It took me so much longer to document what I was doing, maybe 2/3x the time.

These forks are off my 2006 ktm200exc. Should be a good guide for other cartridge forks too.

First off, tools. You don't need a lot of them. I haven't included screwdrivers and basic hand tools, if you haven't got any don't even try this. Heres the main list of what I've used...
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll75/dr_klause/fork%20rebuild/1tools.jpg

Support your bike so the front end is off the floor. I use a scissor lift, you could use a MX jack or suitable crate/box...
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll75/dr_klause/fork%20rebuild/1lift.jpg

You now want to remove the front wheel, brake caliper, stanchion protectors and anything that is connected to the forks.
You should now have just your forks left on the bike. Undo the top fork pinch bolts equally! Before you undo the bottom yoke pinch bolts, loosen off (NOT UNDO) the fork caps, this will help you later.

Now your forks should be removed. Clean them!

It's good practice to back off the damper adjuster, this will help assembly and help your damping valves/needles. Undo your fork cap that you loosened earlier. It's important to keep your fork upright, don't and you'll find out why.
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll75/dr_klause/fork%20rebuild/2undocap.jpg

Slide the fork tube down the stanchion. You should see something like this...
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll75/dr_klause/fork%20rebuild/3.jpg

Now get your spanner (22mm in my case), pull the spring down and the fork cap up to create a gap and insert spanner...
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll75/dr_klause/fork%20rebuild/4.jpg

While holding the spanner undo the fork cap. You should be able to spin of the cap once loosened...
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll75/dr_klause/fork%20rebuild/3.jpg

Put the cap, spring, damper rod and any spacers on a clean surface. Poor old fork oil into container, pump damper and outer fork a little to get access oil out. You won't get it all out, it's annoying.
Now put all your parts on clean work area...
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll75/dr_klause/fork%20rebuild/5.jpg

Right, if you just want to renew the oil or change the preload spacers or change the spring this is as far as you need to go.


Prize the dust seal off the outer tube and pull down the stanchion. You should be able to see the retaining ring, get a small screwdriver and lift the ring out of its groove, careful not to scratch the chrome...
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll75/dr_klause/fork%20rebuild/6.jpg

Now you have to detach the outer tube from the stanchion. You just need to pull them apart till it bottom outs then give them a few knocks.
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll75/dr_klause/fork%20rebuild/7.jpg

Pull the top bush off by prizing it apart, then remove all the other parts, best to lay them down in order...
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll75/dr_klause/fork%20rebuild/8.jpg
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll75/dr_klause/fork%20rebuild/9.jpg

You can now check your bushes for wear. Number 6 bush should be checked for wear on the outside, number 5 should be checked on this inside, mine has slight wear to 5 as you can see a band and 6 has scratches/chips and marks...
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll75/dr_klause/fork%20rebuild/10wear-1.jpg

Now for the new parts. Clean your stanchion of old oil, you can wrap cello tape around the top of the stanchion to get rid of the rough cut edges. Oil the cello tape and the seals as you pass them down in order...
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll75/dr_klause/fork%20rebuild/12.jpg
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll75/dr_klause/fork%20rebuild/15.jpg

Then lastly clip the top bush in place and oil the bush.
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll75/dr_klause/fork%20rebuild/20.jpg

Slide your nice clean fork tube back over the stanchion. Push the inner bush into the fork tube ready to be drifted in place, so only these parts should remain...
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll75/dr_klause/fork%20rebuild/16.jpg

If you don't have a fork seal driver, make a suitable drift. A plastic tube cut down one side is perfect. If the plastic tube doesn't sit on the bush right put the spacer up against the bush as the spacers has a bigger surface area to knock agaisnt...
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll75/dr_klause/fork%20rebuild/dont.jpg

Hold the plastic tube and use the outertube to drift them into place...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=swdNBN_ZNhY

Do the same with the oil seal but be more careful, once it seats you don't want to keep drifting it as it wont take that too kindly. You should be able to see the retaining ring groove once it's seated. Insert the retaining ring and push the dust seal in place. You might require some gentle blows from a rubber mallet to get the dust seal fully seated.

Now compress the outer tube all the way down so the dust seal bottoms out. This is how you need to measure your oil level,no spring etc. You can cut or mark some coat hanger wire or plastic rod etc to your required air gap level and use as a dipstick.
Start filling the stanchion with oil till you reach your air gap distance. Pump the damper assembly in a small smooth motion to get air out. Also pump the outer tube in a small smooth motion. Measure again, top up as required. If you over fill use a syringe to extract small amounts out.

Pull the damper assembly/spring guide up all the way up, otherwise you'll struggle getting it fully up once the spring is in place.
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll75/dr_klause/fork%20rebuild/17.jpg

You Just need to assemble it the way you took it apart. So remember the spring, damper rod and spacers.
____________________
Current bikes: 1960 Triumph 5ta x2, TTR600RE, KTM200EXC, Cagiva Elephant 900ie.


Last edited by Klause on 11:48 - 23 Feb 2011; edited 2 times in total
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silky666
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Joined: 28 Aug 2006
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PostPosted: 18:30 - 22 Feb 2011    Post subject: Re: KTM WP USD fork service, rough guide. Reply with quote

Klause wrote:

Any other guides that people think would be good?

I did a guide to the WR USD forks ... which I guess is the same as yours + installation of the seals using an old seal as a driver.

I put it in the 'Workshop' section ... but a link here might be of use.
http://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?p=2417329#2417329

Also a quick video showing the seal driver method.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T-yGhBJYCDk
____________________
There's nothing that shouts "Poor Workmanship" more than wrinkles in the Gaffa tape.

Gaffa tape is like "the force" - it has a light side, a dark side, and it holds the universe together.
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Joe
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PostPosted: 18:35 - 22 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well done chaps, all very useful.

The more guides the better, even if they cover the same subject.
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Klause
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PostPosted: 19:05 - 22 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Silky, I never like to put a metal hammer near the chrome work. Only a last resort. But the old seal as a driver is safe/cheap way of doing it. I have a few methods as the proper seal driver tool doesn't always fit Rolling Eyes.
I will probably do a setup too. As someone had the limit of 20mm preload spacers in mine.
Or you can take your forks to my new work place in Dorking Cool
____________________
Current bikes: 1960 Triumph 5ta x2, TTR600RE, KTM200EXC, Cagiva Elephant 900ie.
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silky666
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PostPosted: 19:14 - 22 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Klause wrote:
Silky, I never like to put a metal hammer near the chrome work. Only a last resort.

The printer paper wrap protects it nicely.
Plus you just make sure you 'slide' the hammer down as opposed to 'striking' the seal.

I think the point of the forum guides are so that us poor paupers dont have to take them to a garage and pay over the odds for what should be a simple procedure.

On that note, A guide to: 'Top End Rebuild for 2007 onwards KTM 250 ECXF' please Thumbs Up Smile
____________________
There's nothing that shouts "Poor Workmanship" more than wrinkles in the Gaffa tape.

Gaffa tape is like "the force" - it has a light side, a dark side, and it holds the universe together.
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Klause
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PostPosted: 19:20 - 22 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't use my seal driver tool for that very reason. I make one and don't use a hammer.

Sure i can do special prices for you guys anyway, if you just supply the forks it only takes me 15-20mins per fork leg.

Supply the engine and bits haha...
____________________
Current bikes: 1960 Triumph 5ta x2, TTR600RE, KTM200EXC, Cagiva Elephant 900ie.


Last edited by Klause on 19:29 - 22 Feb 2011; edited 2 times in total
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drzsta
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PostPosted: 19:20 - 22 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

your garage is almost as full of shit as mine Laughing
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Klause
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PostPosted: 19:26 - 22 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

drzsta wrote:
your garage is almost as full of shit as mine Laughing


I had a clearout the other day. Still got complete triumph engine in parts, triumph spares, TTR spares, cr250 forks, lots of offroad spares tubes,bearings,seals etc and 4 tool boxes brimmed with tools but most of that is going to my new work place.
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Current bikes: 1960 Triumph 5ta x2, TTR600RE, KTM200EXC, Cagiva Elephant 900ie.
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Joe
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PostPosted: 20:50 - 22 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Klause wrote:
Or you can take your forks to my new work place in Dorking Cool


How much for seal replacement? Not that mine need doing, but for future reference.
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silky666
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PostPosted: 21:14 - 22 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Klause wrote:
Or you can take your forks to my new work place in Dorking Cool

How much labour only for full top end rebuild on KTM EXCF ? (new piston and rings + valve check and setup and new seals + new cam chain tenshioner)
____________________
There's nothing that shouts "Poor Workmanship" more than wrinkles in the Gaffa tape.

Gaffa tape is like "the force" - it has a light side, a dark side, and it holds the universe together.
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Joe
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PostPosted: 21:16 - 22 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

silky666 wrote:
How much labour only for full top end rebuild on KTM EXCF ? (new piston and rings + valve check and setup and new seals + new cam chain tenshioner)


Want me to do it for you? I've got some new wheel oil I can use.
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silky666
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PostPosted: 21:26 - 22 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Joe wrote:
silky666 wrote:
How much labour only for full top end rebuild on KTM EXCF ? (new piston and rings + valve check and setup and new seals + new cam chain tenshioner)


Want me to do it for you? I've got some new wheel oil I can use.

Normally of course I would continue to take great delight and p*ss out of your mechanical ineptitude.



But the fact I spelt 'tensioner' , "tenshioner" is distracting me Embarassed
I hope you understand.
____________________
There's nothing that shouts "Poor Workmanship" more than wrinkles in the Gaffa tape.

Gaffa tape is like "the force" - it has a light side, a dark side, and it holds the universe together.
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Klause
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PostPosted: 10:50 - 23 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

The shop is only just opening. Was given the task of kitting out the workshop, which is mostly done. The website is very much in progress but getting there. http://www.azcari.com/ When it's open pop in for a chat, which should only be next week or so, I'll be bored as im sure it wont pick up for a while.
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Current bikes: 1960 Triumph 5ta x2, TTR600RE, KTM200EXC, Cagiva Elephant 900ie.
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