Bleedin' tight sump plug

[Nemo]

Tried changing my oil yesterday, but the supm plug is tighter than a nun's arse!!!

Does anyone have any suggestions as to how I can free it, without rounding it off?
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Previously owned: Kawasaki KH125, Suzuki GP125, Suzuki GX 125, Honda CB125 TDC '83, Honda ntv 600, Kawasaki ER5, Kawasaki ZZR600, Aprilia RSV 1000 Mille
Now own: Ducati 848 evo

[kentpunkster]

Gentle heat and put a socket on nut and give a few taps with a hammer...

[Kickstart]

Hi

And also make VERY sure that you are turning it the right way. Very easy with sump plugs to get confused.

All the bes

Keith
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Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing

[Scotsman37]

If you can raise the bike up a bit and use an impact driver + impact socket on the nut as that should help to move it.

[chris-red]

A sump plug should never get tight enough that you can't open it, I'm with Keith on this make sure you are going the right way.
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Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
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[Nemo]

I've only just got the bike, and I'm assuming it works in the same manner as all the others, lefty loosey righty tighty....

The sump plug doesn't face down like some bike's, it faces outwards on the left hand side, which makes it a little easier, but not too much.
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Previously owned: Kawasaki KH125, Suzuki GP125, Suzuki GX 125, Honda CB125 TDC '83, Honda ntv 600, Kawasaki ER5, Kawasaki ZZR600, Aprilia RSV 1000 Mille
Now own: Ducati 848 evo

[Kickstart]

Hi

In which case my guess would be that someone has cross threaded it, or the thread is dodgy and it is held in with strong loctite.

All the best

Keith
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Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing

[Nemo]

Hmmm, might get a new one then, even if it turns out okay a new one won't do any harm, and will make it easier in the future.

Cheers guys
____________________
Previously owned: Kawasaki KH125, Suzuki GP125, Suzuki GX 125, Honda CB125 TDC '83, Honda ntv 600, Kawasaki ER5, Kawasaki ZZR600, Aprilia RSV 1000 Mille
Now own: Ducati 848 evo

[chris-red]

[Nemo]

Hmmmm, that would be a bit of a bummer, is it re-tapable?
what's that kit you can get with the insert? That probably made no sense....
____________________
Previously owned: Kawasaki KH125, Suzuki GP125, Suzuki GX 125, Honda CB125 TDC '83, Honda ntv 600, Kawasaki ER5, Kawasaki ZZR600, Aprilia RSV 1000 Mille
Now own: Ducati 848 evo

[Pete.]

It's actually probably just bloody tight. What size socket does it use?
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a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good

[Nemo]

[chris-red]

[Nemo]

Hit the nut directly, or tap the spanner/socket?

I'll give it another go tonight.
____________________
Previously owned: Kawasaki KH125, Suzuki GP125, Suzuki GX 125, Honda CB125 TDC '83, Honda ntv 600, Kawasaki ER5, Kawasaki ZZR600, Aprilia RSV 1000 Mille
Now own: Ducati 848 evo

[chris-red]

Hit the nut directly, the idea behind it is that if corrosion is holding the bolt to the thread it will loosen it a,bit if it has made no difference after a couple of taps them try something else, you could also use an extender, a bit of tube over the end of a rachet but tbh if it has been done up that tightly I'm suprised it didn't crack. The only things I have need an extender of where brake disc bolts and wheel spindles.
____________________
Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.

[Pete.]

[kramdra]

Waterpump plyers. They are very good on rounded bolts, but wont move everything. Example:
https://www.screwfix.com/cats/A335533/Hand-Tools/Pliers-Cutters/Water-Pump-Pliers



OR use a cold chisel and hammer.
Hit it in the direction you want to turn. This should move anything. If it doesnt work, you need a bigger hammer

[Pete.]

[chris-red]

[stinkwheel]

It's not outwith the realms of possability that someone has already stripped it or cross threaded it then put it back in with threadlock. Anything is possible on a bike of that age.

As such, some direct heat might not be a bad idea.

An air (or battery) impact wrench is an even better idea if you have access to one.
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[jimspeed]

fair chance of it being already damaged if it is that tight, are there any other holes you could use to drain the oil, try warming the bike up nice and hot,
or use one of these of you can get it in anywhere
https://www.pelapumps.co.uk/
we use them at work and they are very good.

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[whitedevil]

Go out for a long ride, get it real hot, then use something to freeze the bolt and it should come out easy.

[chris-red]

[ClockworkJesu...]

My sump-plug was damned tight, too.
Got a socket on it with a nice long breaker-bar over the ratchet and just applied smooth, gentle force.

It'll go "BANG" and come off. Nothing survives the breaker-bar.

Thats my two-cents, anyway.

Just remember, don't do it back up murder tight.

[Teflon-Mike]

Sump plug on Left-Hand-Side under the mag-cover, you are trying to undo the right bolt, aren't you?
But, first off get new copper compression washer, before you start, if you haven't already. If it's that tight probably squashed to heck and wont seal when you refit.
Its awkward to get at, and with limited clerance, you are probably going to foul the casing or floor to get a decent swing on a long bar.
If its tight, six sided socket, beg, borrow, steal.... double hex or wall-drive only grip on points, so you are putting more pressure on the metal. Wall drive are 'OK'. but straight six side is the best defence its an all-round close fit on the hex.
SHORT extension to get breaker past cases, and you want to have the handle pointing at rear wheel to turn anti-clockwise, lifting from the floor, to apply even force in controlled manner.
Its a light bike, so you may want to get some-one to sit on it and hold it down so you can get more purchase on it.
AND you want to support the head of the breaker so you are ONLY turning, not bending the socket & extension on the head.
Thats basic technique.
Cases are alloy, plug/bolt is steel.
This MAY not be brutal mechanics or stripped or crossed threads, could simply be that previouse owner followed advice to warm engine before draining old oil..... in which case, hot alloy case, would expand more than steel sump plug, come out easy..... small steel plug then cools more than big chunk of alloy..... oil finished coming out, owner puts plug back in.
Its loose so he does it pretty tight, THEN engine cools down, shrinking round the plug!
So, get motor good and hot, then apply controlled force.
Try impact driver, if still stiff.
If no effect..... give up.
Are you gong to do the strainer?
If so, messy, BUT, leave plug in, crack primary case off, let oil come out that side.
May be able to inspect plug from inside for damage, ans with long taper punch, lightly tap on the end to help rattle it a little loose.
Alternatively, & safer.....
ride it round to a garage with air tools, new plug & washer & small bottle of oil in pocket and ask them to loosen it off with air impact driver.... spare plug oil & washer for if they take it ALL the way out, rather than just loose!
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