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Goughie |
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Goughie L Plate Warrior
Joined: 14 May 2011 Karma :
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MarJay |
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MarJay But it's British!
Joined: 15 Sep 2003 Karma :
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Posted: 15:58 - 14 May 2011 Post subject: Re: Cold starting my Yamaha RD350YPVS |
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Goughie wrote: | Hi all, not having had this two Yamaha two stroke bike before I've found cold starting to be a pain especially if not used for a day or so. I've replaced the fuel tap diaphragm with a replacement parts kit thinking it wasn't getting fuel. The tap has a prime position that I feel it tends to be needed to be left in for about 30 secs at least before trying to start and seems to need full choke. It ususally takes about six attempts minimum before I can catch it to allow me to snatch the throttle open to keep it going.
The carbs look either new replacements or have been professionally rebuilt. I don't really want to go back to the original seller for any advice. Plugs seem ok. Any tips anyone
Thanks. |
Ok... 'plugs seem ok'. That doesn't tell us anything, other than you removed them and replaced them. Are they the correct plugs for the bike? (from memory NGK BR9ES). Generally speaking with problems like this, the first thing I'd do is replace the plugs. If the problem goes away you can throw the old ones away, and if it stays you keep them as spares.
The other thing you need to check is that the tube between the carbs that activates the vaccum choke in the right hand carb is still in place and in good condition. If it isn't there then you need to get some tubing to replace it because the choke will only be working on the left hand carb ( the one with the choke plunger on it).
Then, if neither of those things helps, I'd do a compression check. If the compression is fine, then I'd think about stripping and cleaning the carbs etc. The problem can also be caused by the crank being slightly out of true between the two cylinders. The reason why this is an issue is that the left hand side of the crank triggers the spark. If the left and right sides aren't EXACTLY true with one another, then the right hand piston will be running advanced or retarded ignition and won't fire easily.
Remember, always start with the cheap problems first, and then look at the expensive ones later... ____________________ British beauty: Triumph Street Triple R; Loony stroker: KR1S; Track fun: GSXR750 L1; Commuter Missile: GSX-S1000F
Remember kids, bikes aren't like lego. You can't easily take a part from one bike and then fit it to another. |
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Goughie |
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Goughie L Plate Warrior
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Suntan Sid |
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Suntan Sid World Chat Champion
Joined: 07 May 2009 Karma :
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Posted: 16:38 - 17 May 2011 Post subject: Re: Cold starting my Yamaha RD350YPVS |
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Goughie wrote: | The tap has a prime position that I feel it tends to be needed to be left in for about 30 secs at least before trying to start |
30 seconds sounds way too long to have the tap on "Prime", I'd have a river of petrol, running down the drive, if I left it on "Prime" for that amount of time.
As Marjay said check the plugs, if that doesn't sort it pull the carbs and clean them, also check all the fuel lines for leaks or blockages.
Seriously, I started mine up a couple of weeks ago, it can't have taken more than 5 seconds before the carbs began to overflow, and that was from completely dry, just fitted, carbs and pipes. ____________________ "Everybody needs money, that's why they call it money!" |
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Goughie |
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Goughie L Plate Warrior
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steven_191 |
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steven_191 Nearly there...
Joined: 31 May 2009 Karma :
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andys675 |
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andys675 World Chat Champion
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Vincent |
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Vincent Banned
Joined: 16 Oct 2006 Karma :
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stinkwheel |
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stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist
Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :
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Posted: 21:40 - 20 May 2011 Post subject: |
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Remember not to kick it too hard. On a stroker it's more a case of pressing down on the lever so it gently tickles over rather than giving it a big boot. I see a lot of people giving their stroker the big welly when cold starting and flooding them.
The prime position on the tap shouldn't make a shite of difference unless the float bowls were totally empty but using it would eliminate any concerns you might have about the vacuum tap operating properly.
Mine used to like the throttle cracked open by the tiniest amount when starting but it was tuned off its nuts and was a total bastard to start anyway. Most bikes shouldn't need the throttle touching at all when starting.
Mine also liked the choke just off fully open, something I achieved by pulling the choke out, putting a plastic clothespeg under the choke plunger then pushing it in again (I kept it clipped to the clutch cable so it was handy).
It's more likely to be a spark problem than a fuelling problem.
EDIT: That said. If it's cold starting in 6 kicks, that's not necessarily all that bad. Especially if it's just being started and not ridden (not sure if you're giving it a run or just firing it up occasionally). Have you tried thrashing the arse off it? They tend to oil up if just started, reved for a bit then switched off again. ____________________ “Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles. |
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Goughie |
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Goughie L Plate Warrior
Joined: 14 May 2011 Karma :
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 12 years, 343 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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