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Cold starting my Yamaha RD350YPVS

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Goughie
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Joined: 14 May 2011
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PostPosted: 15:18 - 14 May 2011    Post subject: Cold starting my Yamaha RD350YPVS Reply with quote

Hi all, not having had this two Yamaha two stroke bike before I've found cold starting to be a pain especially if not used for a day or so. I've replaced the fuel tap diaphragm with a replacement parts kit thinking it wasn't getting fuel. The tap has a prime position that I feel it tends to be needed to be left in for about 30 secs at least before trying to start and seems to need full choke. It ususally takes about six attempts minimum before I can catch it to allow me to snatch the throttle open to keep it going.
The carbs look either new replacements or have been professionally rebuilt. I don't really want to go back to the original seller for any advice. Plugs seem ok. Any tips anyone

Thanks.
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MarJay
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Joined: 15 Sep 2003
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PostPosted: 15:58 - 14 May 2011    Post subject: Re: Cold starting my Yamaha RD350YPVS Reply with quote

Goughie wrote:
Hi all, not having had this two Yamaha two stroke bike before I've found cold starting to be a pain especially if not used for a day or so. I've replaced the fuel tap diaphragm with a replacement parts kit thinking it wasn't getting fuel. The tap has a prime position that I feel it tends to be needed to be left in for about 30 secs at least before trying to start and seems to need full choke. It ususally takes about six attempts minimum before I can catch it to allow me to snatch the throttle open to keep it going.
The carbs look either new replacements or have been professionally rebuilt. I don't really want to go back to the original seller for any advice. Plugs seem ok. Any tips anyone

Thanks.


Ok... 'plugs seem ok'. That doesn't tell us anything, other than you removed them and replaced them. Are they the correct plugs for the bike? (from memory NGK BR9ES). Generally speaking with problems like this, the first thing I'd do is replace the plugs. If the problem goes away you can throw the old ones away, and if it stays you keep them as spares.

The other thing you need to check is that the tube between the carbs that activates the vaccum choke in the right hand carb is still in place and in good condition. If it isn't there then you need to get some tubing to replace it because the choke will only be working on the left hand carb ( the one with the choke plunger on it).

Then, if neither of those things helps, I'd do a compression check. If the compression is fine, then I'd think about stripping and cleaning the carbs etc. The problem can also be caused by the crank being slightly out of true between the two cylinders. The reason why this is an issue is that the left hand side of the crank triggers the spark. If the left and right sides aren't EXACTLY true with one another, then the right hand piston will be running advanced or retarded ignition and won't fire easily.

Remember, always start with the cheap problems first, and then look at the expensive ones later...
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Goughie
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Joined: 14 May 2011
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PostPosted: 15:49 - 17 May 2011    Post subject: RD350 advice Reply with quote

Thanks, I'll try those suggestions and a good idea if I only end up with a spare set of plugs to begin with.

John
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Suntan Sid
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Joined: 07 May 2009
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PostPosted: 16:38 - 17 May 2011    Post subject: Re: Cold starting my Yamaha RD350YPVS Reply with quote

Goughie wrote:
The tap has a prime position that I feel it tends to be needed to be left in for about 30 secs at least before trying to start


30 seconds sounds way too long to have the tap on "Prime", I'd have a river of petrol, running down the drive, if I left it on "Prime" for that amount of time.

As Marjay said check the plugs, if that doesn't sort it pull the carbs and clean them, also check all the fuel lines for leaks or blockages.

Seriously, I started mine up a couple of weeks ago, it can't have taken more than 5 seconds before the carbs began to overflow, and that was from completely dry, just fitted, carbs and pipes.
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Goughie
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Joined: 14 May 2011
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PostPosted: 21:14 - 19 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Plugs and fresh petrol seem to have cured the problem. Also it seems to be better now it's been started more frequently.
Thanks for your help.
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steven_191
Nearly there...



Joined: 31 May 2009
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PostPosted: 22:56 - 19 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

the prime on the tap wont over flow the carb. or rather it shouldnt.

all it means is that if you have removed the fuel supply or have an empty carb, switch it to prime and it will fill the fuel supply without running the engine. running the engine causes a vacuum to open the fuel tap diamphram.

in theory you can leave it on prime all the time. it shouldnt make a difference if everything works.

if i were you id see what happens if your leave it on prime and start it.
when running the engine the vacuum opens the fuel tap so prime will just bypass this. switch it back to on and see if the engine still runs ok.

and yeah if its a cold engine and a cold day, prime is usually needed for easy starting. and dont start it then open the throttle too much. let it tick over for a minute then slowly take the choke off. if its going to stall then crack open the throttle enough to keep it ticking over while th choke comes off., if your still have trouble then you may need to check things like carb settings, ignition timing and is it turning fast enough to produce a spark, possibly even things like air leaks in the engine or more serious stuff. but unless you have more serious issues this is probably fine.

just read you have sorted it.
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andys675
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Joined: 08 Feb 2007
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PostPosted: 14:28 - 20 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

put some silkolene FST in mine, after doing a tank at 2% mix and and using that tankfull over about 8 days the bike would tickover on its own without being nursed to keep it running
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stinkwheel
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Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 21:40 - 20 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Remember not to kick it too hard. On a stroker it's more a case of pressing down on the lever so it gently tickles over rather than giving it a big boot. I see a lot of people giving their stroker the big welly when cold starting and flooding them.

The prime position on the tap shouldn't make a shite of difference unless the float bowls were totally empty but using it would eliminate any concerns you might have about the vacuum tap operating properly.

Mine used to like the throttle cracked open by the tiniest amount when starting but it was tuned off its nuts and was a total bastard to start anyway. Most bikes shouldn't need the throttle touching at all when starting.

Mine also liked the choke just off fully open, something I achieved by pulling the choke out, putting a plastic clothespeg under the choke plunger then pushing it in again (I kept it clipped to the clutch cable so it was handy).

It's more likely to be a spark problem than a fuelling problem.

EDIT: That said. If it's cold starting in 6 kicks, that's not necessarily all that bad. Especially if it's just being started and not ridden (not sure if you're giving it a run or just firing it up occasionally). Have you tried thrashing the arse off it? They tend to oil up if just started, reved for a bit then switched off again.
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Goughie
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Joined: 14 May 2011
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PostPosted: 20:12 - 24 May 2011    Post subject: Starting problem Reply with quote

Thanks to everbody for all the tips.
It seems to have all stemmed from a lack of use of the bike and me flooding the engine. Now it's had a good run I can start it easily on one or two kicks with little or no choke.

Easy when you know how?
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