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Bypass anti-hotwire on SV650

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huskie69
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Joined: 10 Nov 2010
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PostPosted: 08:12 - 25 May 2011    Post subject: Bypass anti-hotwire on SV650 Reply with quote

Hi all

I recently bought a Cyclone V2 keyless remote start and alarm kit off fleabay.

I got round to fitting it last night and I can't seem to start the bike.

I've posted a youtube video showing what happens:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SUewKwapOEo

Notice that the bike starts cranking with the clutch pulled but won't startup properly.

The instructions don't mention anything about needing to bypass the clutch (I think I need to ground the cable that goes live when the clutch is pulled). The instructions also don't mention anything about needing to bypass the anti-hotwire on the bike.

I got in touch with the seller who was very helpful but explained it way too fast for me to understand what was needed. From what I did understand, basically I need to bridge two wires from the ignition barrel using a 100ohm resistor. The two wires are apparently orange/yellow and black/white.

I'm guessing using a resistor replicates the actual resistance drop across the physcial key?

Anyway, I haven't checked the wires from the barrel yet as I'm waiting on the resistor but has anyone done this before - specifically on an SV650/1000 (I'm guessing the electrics on a bandit are the same too).
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'10 Skyjet SJ125-23 - Crashed Sad > '09 YBR 125 > '53 Suzuki SV650 - Died Sad > 2010 Suzuki VanVan 125 > '87 Yamaha FZ750 Sold > VTR 1000 FireStorm - Sold > Honda CB1000R
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Ichy
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PostPosted: 08:37 - 25 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry can't help with the electrics but, in my own opinion, it seems a bit of a backwards step to fit an alarm and then disable features of the bike that are there to protect it.

I have fitted quite a few of these systems for people and they work as well as you would expect a £20 alarm to work. Flashing lights and a bit of noise can't hurt. The remote start doesn't really have any purpose at all apart from show bikes with keyless ignition. What it will do is make it easier to steal the bike.

BTW when you disable the clutch switch just check that the bike will not start in gear. Unlikely but it doesn't hurt to check.
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huskie69
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PostPosted: 08:52 - 25 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Marki wrote:
Sorry can't help with the electrics but, in my own opinion, it seems a bit of a backwards step to fit an alarm and then disable features of the bike that are there to protect it.

I have fitted quite a few of these systems for people and they work as well as you would expect a £20 alarm to work. Flashing lights and a bit of noise can't hurt. The remote start doesn't really have any purpose at all apart from show bikes with keyless ignition. What it will do is make it easier to steal the bike.

BTW when you disable the clutch switch just check that the bike will not start in gear. Unlikely but it doesn't hurt to check.


Hi Marki

I agree - it definitely does defeat the object! but what's to stop someone just stopping by with a van, lifting the whole bike onto it and buggering off? At least the alarm is a bit of a deterrent (goes off at the slightest touch). As for the keyless remote start, I decided on this option as my barrel is sticking and it's degrading to the point where it's causing me quite a bit of grief and some funny looks from passers (swearing at it in Tesco carpark for example!)

Thanks for the clutch tip. I haven't left the bike in gear before but there's always a first - and that could be a disaster!
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'10 Skyjet SJ125-23 - Crashed Sad > '09 YBR 125 > '53 Suzuki SV650 - Died Sad > 2010 Suzuki VanVan 125 > '87 Yamaha FZ750 Sold > VTR 1000 FireStorm - Sold > Honda CB1000R
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Ichy
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PostPosted: 09:05 - 25 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't get me wrong I think the alarm is a great little thing for the money.

I will accept that I can be overly paranoid at times but I prefer to not use the colour coded wires to the ignition circuit. I cut them short and just use plain black wire.

My problem with these alarms is that they are a very common DIY fit. The wiring diagram is available for everyone to look at and it doesn't take a genius to put two and two together and realise that they only need to join a couple of wires together to get the bike going. Better still someone has made a picture that shows what colours to join.

Ok in reality they are just going to shove a screwdriver in the lock but it makes me feel better.

I take it you already know how to disable the clutch switch?
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huskie69
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PostPosted: 09:16 - 25 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Marki wrote:
I cut them short and just use plain black wire


Brilliant idea! I intend to do this as soon as I get home tonight.

Marki wrote:
I take it you already know how to disable the clutch switch?


Yup - the seller said I just need to ground the wire that goes live when the clutch is pulled.
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'10 Skyjet SJ125-23 - Crashed Sad > '09 YBR 125 > '53 Suzuki SV650 - Died Sad > 2010 Suzuki VanVan 125 > '87 Yamaha FZ750 Sold > VTR 1000 FireStorm - Sold > Honda CB1000R
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serlant
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Joined: 06 Jul 2009
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PostPosted: 09:42 - 25 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ignore me lol, Good luck with getting it started. and i do have to say i have the same alarm wired up but i always leave the bike in gear so its useless anyway.
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04 CBR1000RR, 1995 Husqvarna TE410, 1998 VTR1000(Sold), 1990 XJ600(sold), 1996 KH125(dead and sold)


Last edited by serlant on 09:51 - 25 May 2011; edited 1 time in total
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huskie69
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PostPosted: 09:51 - 25 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

serlant wrote:
I fitted my alarm and had the exact same problem with the remote start, it was because the (blue wire i think) that went to the starter relay wasn't making a connection, so the lights and all came on, but the bike didn't start, re-attached the blue wire and voila.


Hi serlant. I've gotten past that stage - in the vid, you'll notice it begins cranking so there's definitely nothing wrong at the starter relay end.

Did you fit yours to a Suzuki or a different bike?
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'10 Skyjet SJ125-23 - Crashed Sad > '09 YBR 125 > '53 Suzuki SV650 - Died Sad > 2010 Suzuki VanVan 125 > '87 Yamaha FZ750 Sold > VTR 1000 FireStorm - Sold > Honda CB1000R
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serlant
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PostPosted: 09:56 - 25 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've fitted it to a 1998 VTR1000F, so much simpler than yours as its pre-hiss and is carb'd with no fuel pump etc.
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Chriss
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PostPosted: 12:04 - 26 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Before you bypass the clutch switch you need to check carefully that the clutch pulled in doesn't engage a different fuel map with the ECU.

See here for more details about the issue.
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huskie69
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PostPosted: 12:14 - 26 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chriss wrote:
Before you bypass the clutch switch you need to check carefully that the clutch pulled in doesn't engage a different fuel map with the ECU.

See here for more details about the issue.


Thanks for the tip Chriss - looking at my wiring diagram, it doesn't appear that bridging the clutch switch would directly affect the ECU.
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'10 Skyjet SJ125-23 - Crashed Sad > '09 YBR 125 > '53 Suzuki SV650 - Died Sad > 2010 Suzuki VanVan 125 > '87 Yamaha FZ750 Sold > VTR 1000 FireStorm - Sold > Honda CB1000R
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 12:19 - 26 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

A very high chance that with the clutch switch disconnected that the bike will happily start in gear. And Chriss' point above is a good one.

Some ignition switches have resistor built in. Idea is that just cutting the wires and shorting them out will not result in the right resistance and the ignition unit will not work.

All the best

Keith
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Fortuna
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Joined: 29 Oct 2004
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PostPosted: 17:06 - 26 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kickstart wrote:
Hi

A very high chance that with the clutch switch disconnected that the bike will happily start in gear. And Chriss' point above is a good one.

Some ignition switches have resistor built in. Idea is that just cutting the wires and shorting them out will not result in the right resistance and the ignition unit will not work.

All the best

Keith

Exactly.
The ZX7R is like this too. There is a resistor that causes a voltage drop to about 6v. If the ECU doesn't see 6v it assumes it's been hotwired.
There are ways around it. You can just put a resistor into the wiring loom of the same value and wattage or build a 6v regulator.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 17:26 - 26 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Disabling the clutch switch will invoke the neutral map and give you a lower rev limit possibly a lean running engine too. You could add some circuitry to bypass that effect but as above you could then start the bike in gear.

To combat that, you would alter the wiring so that the bike MUST be in neutral, rather than the either/or situation which is standard where it must either be in neutral OR the sidestand down.

As above, there's a wire running to the ignition switch that is not shown on the wiring diagram. This must be connected through a resistor or your bike will not start. There's a resistor built into the ignition switch.
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Fortuna
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PostPosted: 21:13 - 26 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:
There's a resistor built into the ignition switch.

*POP* Why won't my bike start Confused
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