Loooong project CD175

[grahamd1]

Its funny, I've been putting off doing this job for ages, as everything I read on the net or in books made it look easy, but warned of the perils if not done right, which in my eyes means an accident waiting to happen, and if its gonna bugger up it will with me doing it...

(sorry if this is a bit picture heavy, but I hope others like the detail, but then again maybe not?)

Any way here we go, rear wheel bearing replacement

I got my bearings from Fleabay

https://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/punch2.jpg

And I don't own any "drifts" or "punches" so I got this set from screwfix, most handy.

https://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/punch.jpg

Heres a pic of before, the haynes manual (bloody Clymer manual doesnt even go this deep, or doesnt want to commit for fear of being sued?) suggests pushing them out by placing the hub brake side down (this makes sence as there is an oil seal that wouldn't come out no matter how I tried), and who am I to argue with experts ?

https://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/1.jpg

First I found a socket (17mm) that was the same size as the inner ring of the existing bearing, the reason being the internet, haynes and every place else suggested using a punch/drift on the lip of the bearing you want to push out, BUT on my CD175 the inner spacer is a dead fit between the two bearings and there is NO ledge or ridge for the punch/drift to push on!! (well at least not yet).

https://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/2.jpg

Being of different metals, my boyhood physics tell me that alloy will absorb heat faster than steel, so I gently heated the alloy all around prior to doing anything.

https://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/3-1.jpg

Now I tried tapping the socket (from the brake side, due to not wanting to damage the oil seal on the otherside, and as I stated "NO RIDGE"), after hitting the socket even harder the oil seal moved, wahay. Now I had a small gap between the two bearings and I could see the inner spacer was "flopping around" inside the hub, NOW I could see the back of the bearing, by pushing the spacer over to one side. So I took a medium punch and tapped it onto the side of the brake side bearing, then pushed the spacer to the other side (12:00 oclock to 6:00 oclock) and did it again, and much like the musical version of war of the worlds, "suddenly, the lid fell off!", and the bearing came out complete with spacer.

https://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/4.jpg

Now I could do the same and punch out the other bearing (which in turn will push out the oil seal)

https://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/5.jpg

Oh look theres that oil seal that would not budge

https://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/6.jpg

And here comes mister bloody bearing

https://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/7.jpg

And their out, and what a crappy bunch they look

https://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/8.jpg

And for comparison the new with the old

https://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/9.jpg

Looking down inside the hub you can see the spacer is only supported at one end, and should flop on the opposite end, but NOT if its sandwiched tight between the two bearings

https://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/10.jpg

Next step, I sprayed brake cleaner into the bearing housing and around the top, then wiped them over with a scotchbrite cloth (dish/pan cleaner to you)

https://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/11.jpg

That looks better (could eat me dinner of that)

https://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/12.jpg

Tried the bearing for size, no problem, hmm but its gonna take a bit to get this thing into bed, I used some grease on the bearing and the housing, and started in reverse order, the side where the oil seal came from

https://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/13.jpg

And using my special "Honda", bearing reinsertion tool (a 32mm socket, I chose because it just fits into the housing and fits perfectly over the outer ring of the new bearing), I gently tapped (and yes thats all it took, a gentle tappity-tap, not WACKITY-WACK) till the bearing was sitting on the ridge in the housing.

https://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/14.jpg

One down, one to go

https://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/15.jpg

Dropped the spacer back onto the three support ridges (ensures it stays in the center)

https://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/16.jpg

Again cleaned up the housing with scotchbrite and brake cleaner, and used my special tool (32mm socket again) and again tappity-tap till she sat on the ridge, and the spacer was sitting centered between both bearings.

https://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/17.jpg

AS the oil seal wasn't damaged (luckilly I never tried to pull it or leaver it out), so a quick clean, and it just pushed back in using my fingers only.

https://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/18.jpg

So in the end the job took under 20 minutes including cleaning, next week (when I get the bearings), I'll do the fronts, and not dread this task any more...
____________________
XV1100, XV750
CD175 (Rebuild)
CF70 (Chaly - Rebuild),

[grahamd1]

Hopefully whilst I wait for the parts to finish the cylinder head off (Valve parts), this weekend I might get on with rebuilding the rear wheel, now I have the spokes and the new rim. I spent an hour or two tonight cleaning up the hib, not bad.

https://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/IMAG0238.jpg

https://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/IMAG0239.jpg
____________________
XV1100, XV750
CD175 (Rebuild)
CF70 (Chaly - Rebuild),

[Teflon-Mike]

Are you not replacing those cush drive bushes?
If you push rod into new ones you can waggle it by hand and feel how much they 'damp' drive line shock, and there's no 'slop' in the pins.
Makes gearchanges a lot smoother and gives chain an easier time, and just makes bike 'nicer' to ride.
____________________
My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?'

[grahamd1]

I ordered some, but still waiting for them to arrive, in case they dont come out.
____________________
XV1100, XV750
CD175 (Rebuild)
CF70 (Chaly - Rebuild),

[pepperami]

Yes Mr Grahamd we do like the detail keep up the good work
____________________
I am the sum total of my own existence, what went before makes me who I am now!

[grahamd1]

Bang on que, postie delivered my cush drive bearings today...

Unlike the wheel bearings, these are real pigs (pics too follow)
____________________
XV1100, XV750
CD175 (Rebuild)
CF70 (Chaly - Rebuild),

[grahamd1]

These are the new cush drive bearings

https://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/IMAG0254.jpg

First step to get the old ones out, Bastard nasty little things, I used my torch in the end to burn the rubber portion off the centre sleave out first.

https://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/IMAG0250.jpg

Then prized the centre sleave over to one side, and using a screwdriver leaved the sleave out.

https://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/IMAG0251.jpg

https://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/IMAG0252.jpg

With the center sleave out, next I bar-b-q'd the rubber sleave with the torch, and prized them out

https://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/IMAG0253.jpg

Sods law, sometimes you get lucky and they pop-out with ease, other times you have to dig them out in bits.

https://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/IMAG0255.jpg

Difficult to see but buried in here is the outer sleave.

https://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/IMAG0245.jpg

After much digging and the use of the dremell Imanaged to get a start on leavering the sleaves, once it started to move it got easier

https://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/IMAG0246.jpg

https://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/IMAG0247.jpg

Luckilly the buggers go back in a lot easier than they come out.

https://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/IMAG0256.jpg
____________________
XV1100, XV750
CD175 (Rebuild)
CF70 (Chaly - Rebuild),

[Teflon-Mike]

I did wonder whether to warn you.... but, seems you have managed! Little swine's ent they!
____________________
My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?'

[grahamd1]

[.....]

Just read from start to here, awesome stuff, thanks for taking the time to document it.

[grahamd1]

[grahamd1]

The parts I ordered from CMSL arrived today from Holland, so I installed the two exhaust (Outlet) valves with the new rubber seals.
(part number 13, and I also replaced part 11 for good measure)

https://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/v1.jpg

https://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/IMAG0263.jpg
____________________
XV1100, XV750
CD175 (Rebuild)
CF70 (Chaly - Rebuild),

[pepperami]

Keep up the good work Mr G
____________________
I am the sum total of my own existence, what went before makes me who I am now!

[grahamd1]

Now the valves are back in, I'm replacing the oil seal in the contact breaker housing, prior to restoring the rockers and camshaft.

Funny the old seal was a bitch to get out, yet the new one psuhed in with ease, guess it was just gummed up with old oil/grease.

https://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/IMAG0264.jpg
____________________
XV1100, XV750
CD175 (Rebuild)
CF70 (Chaly - Rebuild),

[SnowTigeress]

Great project...and read up...

cant believe its been nearly a year since i finished the pup....this brings back all the heart ache and reminded me what a pain in the butt it was....


and yet i havent learnt not to do it again.....looking at another project
____________________
Real bikers build their own Renovated and Riding a 1986 Honda CB125TD-C called the Pup. Full Licence 13/09/2012, 1994 Moto Guzzi 750 Strada
Can-Do Girl that does spanners TOO!
TheSmiler: binning it is better than going around a roundabout the wrong way

[grahamd1]

[grahamd1]

And in goes the first tappet (rocker)

https://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/IMAG0266.jpg

Switftly followed by number 2

https://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/IMAG0267.jpg

Also installed the camshaft holder (on the CB this houses the worm drive for the tacho (rev gauge), but the CD doesn't have those thrills, and less to go wrong.

https://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/IMAG0268.jpg

And the other side (Houses the auto advance and points (contact breakers)), eagle eyed will note I have changed the standard terrible philips screws for pan head allan key heads (chromium plated).

https://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/IMAG0271.jpg

https://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/IMAG0272.jpg

I've backed off all the threaded adjusters on the tappets, and set the cam where the timing needs to be, also replaced the rubber washers under the valve inspection covers.

Next ?

That rear wheel rebuild

Also just heard there is a supplied somewhere in Bedfordshire that has Honda Ruby Red paint in stock, anyone got any clues who or anywhere else local-ish in the UK who stocks it ?
____________________
XV1100, XV750
CD175 (Rebuild)
CF70 (Chaly - Rebuild),

[Tim..]

Going well

All looks very dry though, get some assembly lube on all the parts and seals.

https://www.lucasoil.com/products/display_products.sd?iid=291&catid=9&loc=show&headTitle= - Semi-Synthetic Assembly Lube
____________________
Project builds: My VFR400 nc30 build thread + Honda Britain Rep VFR + What? Another VFR +Project 'cos I want one' + V8 coffee table
www.marshallracing.co.uk
OCD - Helping to bring the standard of my bikes up and make me slowly go mad since 1999

[Fizzer Thou]

The next time that you have to replace wheel bearings it is a good idea to place the new bearings into the freezer the night before and to warm the hub.This way they do not take so much effort to install.It is also better to use a lithium grease rather than copaslip with the bearings.
____________________
Just talk bikes.What else is there?

Always have a 'Plan B'

[grahamd1]

[grahamd1]

Time to build a wheel

After some headscratching I worked out the 90deg bend spokes go from inside to outside of the hub.

https://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/IMAG0273.jpg https://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/IMAG0274.jpg

So I put half that way

https://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/IMAG0275.jpg

And the other spokes I pushed in from the outside in, so one spoke one way, and the other from the opposite side

https://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/IMAG0276-1.jpg https://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/IMAG0277-1.jpg

One side now has the spokes loosley inserted, then I need to do the other side that same, but in opposite holes.

https://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/IMAG0278.jpg https://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/IMAG0279-1.jpg

Using the pictures I took of the wheel before I started, I inserted a pen into the vavle hole for reference and noted that the spokes on the chain side were every four holes

https://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/IMAG0280-1.jpg https://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/IMAG0281-1.jpg

After a few spokes, the pattern soon comes to mind, and you find you can insert the spokes almost blindfolded, just only put the spoke nut on one turn at this stage

Then once the whole wheel is built, I slowly pulled in each spoke 2 turns each, till the wheel was true, next I need to build a wheel holder so I can check the runout, but thats tomorrow, meanwhile I'm happy with the result.

https://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/IMAG0282-1.jpg
____________________
XV1100, XV750
CD175 (Rebuild)
CF70 (Chaly - Rebuild),

[Fizzer Thou]

I use an old swing arm for testing the straightness of wheels,together with some spacers that hold the hub centrally within the swing arm.

Do not forget to put some grease onto the spoke threads and where the spoke nipple seats within the rim.

Excellent write-up by the way.
____________________
Just talk bikes.What else is there?

Always have a 'Plan B'

[grahamd1]

[chris-red]

Was it difficult building the wheels I have been thinking about building my own supermoto wheels as I might be able to save some money.
____________________
Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.

[grahamd1]