Homegrown digital dash

[EazyDuz]

[nowhere.elysium]

[steven_191]

the datalogging would sell alone. Just leave it open for the buyer to put the inputs where they need to and all you do is direct it to memory.

[nowhere.elysium]

Hmm. I've been looking more into this, and lamenting my complete inability at electronic design.
This is not an admission of defeat.

I've been mapping out the probable data line usage on the arduino, and it's looking like the mega is going to be needed, if I'm to include comprehensive datalogging. By comprehensive, I mean *everything*. I can, provided I can get the timing right, take a complete record of the state of the bike at any given point, if the SD card can be written fast enough (with meaningful content).

For a more minimal dash, I can economise enough to make use of the Boarduino with no problems, and a significantly smaller footprint.

So - the options are (and I'm intending to play with both of these, so don't despair):
1) no datalogging at all - this will work with a boarduino - i gain 6 digital lines, two of which have pwm capability (this is useful). This gives me a dash with sensor feeds (temp, tacho, speedo, fuel), as well as a couple of lines so I can have pushbutton inputs to switch between screens with no problems;
2) epic datalogging on the back of a porky board - I get the sensor feeds listed above, plus GPS, XYZ accelerometer (when I get one - they're not overly pricey), TPS data, gear display, I can even include a log of what the idiot lights were doing, and when. For the engine tuners among you, there's also the possibility of tracking air intake pressure, amongst other things.

I'm going to focus on the non-datalogging one for now, because that will at least require a bit less coding, as well as being much easier to prototype.

Between reading significantly huge tracts of electronic theory and trying things out, I shall report back.

:edit: Also, in the interests of keeping you lot informed, it looks like the parts costs for doing the epic logger of doom is ~£80, but that's without including the costs of an enclosure, and it's minus a few resistors and some wire. Let's call it a round £90. Obviously, this doesn't account for my time/effort, but I thought you might like to know.

However, this is the bit that'll blow your minds. The version that includes no datalogging comes in at (minus enclosure and a couple of analogue bits) ~£30. This isn't accounting for import duty in either case, and I'm hoping I can find UK suppliers for the screen soon, but for now, that's still apocalyptically cheap compared to the alternatives on the market.
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'10 SV650SF, '83 GS650GT (it lives!), Questionable DIY dash project, 3D Printer project, Lasercutter project

[chris-red]

Don't make me get the Moar Boar.
____________________
Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.

[nowhere.elysium]

[nowhere.elysium]

Right - here's the schematic for the basic one, using a Boarduino (the application I was using doesn't have a proper graphic for one, so I used the nearest approximation).
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7153/6537649519_335ff3370e_z.jpg

Because I haven't bothered checking the voltages on the sensors yet, I put a voltage regulator in front of all of them, operating on the assumption that they're all rated for 12v.
As you can see, there are two buttons included, which will allow me to select between screens, and reset trip meters (there'll be one per screen, I reckon; main trip and 'between fuel stops' trip).

At the moment, I'm thinking that I'll probably re-route some of this, so the 8th, 10th and 11th pin from the ST7565 display go to PWM pins, so I can use colour gradations for the backlight.
I also routed all of the sensors to the analogue input side, but that was purely to avoid getting a migraine while plotting all this out. The analogue pins can be used as digital lines if they need to be, although I'm going to try and keep them available as much as I can, because they're a rarer resource than the digital ones.

Tomorrow's supposed to be a nice day, so I think I'll wait 'til then to head down to the garage with a multimeter and a camera, and start checking out the ratings on various SV components.
____________________
'10 SV650SF, '83 GS650GT (it lives!), Questionable DIY dash project, 3D Printer project, Lasercutter project

[nowhere.elysium]

G has a lot to answer for.
He's managed to convince me to roll in a function to control an MD80 camera. While I can't do exactly what he wants with the hardware/expertise at my disposal, I can do the following: on the uber-build (the one with all the sensors), I can add a simple on/off controller for the MD80 camera, as well as hopefully being able to hack in a feed from the RTC that'll be built in to the dash. This means that I've got perfect synchronisation between the readings from the dash, and the video feed. as such, there'll be detailed telemetry available, alongside a video/audio feed of the ride, so that weird 'cough' that happened about three miles in can be found a lot more readily, because people tend to remember what they see better than the exact time.

I'm going to continue working on the basic one for now, although I've got a pair of MD80 cameras on order, so I can pull one apart, and see what makes it tick. Conveniently, there are schematics available for them, so it makes it significantly easier to wire in external controls. Forunately, I'm fairly good at detailed work, so soldering any new lines in will be do-able. Just very, very time consuming.

I'll keep you all posted as best I can.
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'10 SV650SF, '83 GS650GT (it lives!), Questionable DIY dash project, 3D Printer project, Lasercutter project

[Charlie]

Have you got a bigger version of your circuit diagram?

Starting simple sounds like the right idea
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Past: Honda x8rs, Honda City fly, Honda Hornet 250, Honda VFR750, Yamaha xt600e.
Current: Honda CBR929RR & Yamaha XT660Z Tenere

[nowhere.elysium]

[chris-red]

On a side note, a simple 12v charger/on off switch would be very handy for an md80.


HINT HINT.



____________________
Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.

[P.]

[nowhere.elysium]

[chris-red]

[chris-red]

I also want a waterproof bluetooth remote for my iphone
____________________
Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.

[Charlie]

The RTC is done inside the ASIC (SPCA1527A) and I think is set by the 32.768KHz crystal. 4th comment on this blog tells you it's in the ASIC.

Don't think you have much control of the RTC without interfacing with the chip. Although I haven't looked into it too much
____________________
Past: Honda x8rs, Honda City fly, Honda Hornet 250, Honda VFR750, Yamaha xt600e.
Current: Honda CBR929RR & Yamaha XT660Z Tenere

[nowhere.elysium]

You've become a properly cheeky bitch since getting your custom title, haven't you

The MD80 power supply will be integrated into the whole unit, but a circuit diagram will be available, so you'll have just as much fun with the DIY learning curve as I've been having.

Alternately, what could be done is to determine whether the thing will run while it's charging (I've heard tell that it might not), and if it does, then just hack up a USB lead, and wire up the red and black ones to a voltage regulator that goes to the battery.
If it does stop recording when there's a USB lead connected, then you can just break the line that detects the presence of a lead - it's a spur from the positive line coming out of the USB socket, that goes to a line labelled 'USB_DET' in section 4A of the schematic I linked to. You'll lose the use of the USB connection, unless you include some kind of switch, but soldering at that scale is a bitch. You'd have to transfer footage off using a MicroSD reader, but that may well prove to be faster anyway, given that a lot of these small cameras don't have the fastest transfer rates in the world.
____________________
'10 SV650SF, '83 GS650GT (it lives!), Questionable DIY dash project, 3D Printer project, Lasercutter project

[P.]

What you need to do is integrate the MD80, then find a nice way of using a 500GB drive for prolonged recording and set it up so you can turn it on/off recording on the dash

Then, I will buy one

[chris-red]

[Blackwolf]

[nowhere.elysium]

[steven_191]

https://ubuntuforums.org/showthread.php?t=1391735

Read the first few posts. suggests that the md80 can be used as a webcam, meaning it would need to be plugged into a USB port and have the 3v supply.

Could you set it as webcam mode a direct the video to storage? Or would that mean hacking the camera?

Just a thought but webcam mode does mean not storing the video/audio data.

Also there's an enclosure for the board here
https://www.coolcomponents.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=50_74&products_id=563

Not sure if you already knew

[nowhere.elysium]

[Charlie]

[steven_191]

I only mention the webcam function because you mentioned in may not work as a camera when plugged into the USB. If not the options are to make the camera think its not plugged in whilst giving it a supply charge (why would the manufacturer stop this in the first place??), or use it on battery.