YBR 125

Sid_The_Sloth · Trackday Trickster Joined: 27 Nov 2011 Karma :

I tried that, but still didn't go no matter how much a sueezed. Plus when I tried to tighten the bolts for it the nut on the inside of the lamp just spun so i had to keep the light off. Bit annoying likes but the angle grinder was fun to revisit lol. I've not had any issues with mine falling or excessively moving either so seems alright without the lip.

Tomzo47 · Brolly Dolly Joined: 29 Jul 2011 Karma :

if I wasn't selling my bike soon I'd have that screen in a second
____________________
Ybr 125 > Bandit 650SA > GSXR 600 > Triumph Sprint St1050 > CB1300 > Z1000SX + FJ1200 (written off) > VFR750 >FJ1200

_Iain_ · Banned Joined: 01 Feb 2012 Karma :

As this is after all a pictures thread:

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/Facebook/Bikes/555026_10151471238965054_816330053_23824721_71253027_n.jpg

Dont let anyone tell you that something "wont" fit on a YBR. It can be made to - Did a long run Maidstone - Lancing like it. Although i did have to skip out the last very crosswindy section of the A27 and cut through brighton. The return journey convinced me that i'd most likely be dead had i attempted that section..crosswinds start to affect you quite badly when heavily loaded, and fuck me was it windy!! Laughing

And the bike with "Official Yamaha Long Distance Fuel Tank" Laughing

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/Facebook/Bikes/559185_10151465863295054_816330053_23805402_2061976242_n.jpg

Following the stupid panic buying, i couldnt chance getting a call out and not being able to get petrol/wait two hours to get to a pump...so ran the bike on cans during the day, refuelling after every job so i had a full tank heading out, and refilled them at 2am. Problem solved. It was a VERY careful ride home though...how many bike crashes dya see where sparks dont go everywhere?? Shocked

As a note, if filling cans up on the back of your bike whilst it is on the centre stand, around halfway through the second can the bike WILL do a see-saw motion and chuck fuel up the side of it as the nozzle is pulled out of the can. Did i feel clever or what Rolling Eyes

____________________
Please be aware that the above post may be full of complete nonsense.
Riding: '07 KTM Duke II, Baotian BT49QT-20 Driving: '88 Volvo 340

JustGraham · Could Be A Chat Bot Joined: 29 Oct 2011 Karma :

jonjo84 · L Plate Warrior Joined: 04 Apr 2012 Karma :

Recently just bought a ybr 125 (2009 model), because well,, i rode a friends and well love them.

I really love the look of gladiator ybr 125, as well as 2010 ybr, with side scoops, but well, found this 2009 ybr at a price i couldnt refuse.

and well was wondering if anyone knows, if i can fit a gladiator replica kit to it, or just large side scoops like the 2010 model, if so, where can i find them.

cause well so far after alot of looking around and asking theese same questions,, still no luck ARGGHHHH!!!!

CAN ANYONE HELP ME PLEASE!!!!!

_Iain_ · Banned Joined: 01 Feb 2012 Karma :

You'd definately have to change the side panels (covering the battery) & possibly the tank - however if you put an EFI tank and hook that up to a carbed engine its not going to work out well. Might find you have to make up some mountings - however i've never had my tank off so cant comment.

Ebay would be your best bet, theres a lot of bike breakers on there Thumbs Up

____________________
Please be aware that the above post may be full of complete nonsense.
Riding: '07 KTM Duke II, Baotian BT49QT-20 Driving: '88 Volvo 340

_Iain_ · Banned Joined: 01 Feb 2012 Karma :

So following the little breakdown last night, (sprocket bolt vibrated loose and destroyed the LH chain tensioner) and having to wait 24 hours for the parts, decided to give it the 6500 mile service and sort a few other bits out.

Took a shit load of pictures along the way, and i'm going to write this up in a "How to" guide style, it might help someone later on.

Okay, first off

TOPICS COVERED:

Oil change
Spark plug change
Valve clearances
De rusting & spraying exhaust
Replacement of headlight bulbs

TOOLS REQUIRED:

Spanners - various sizes.
Socket sets, 3/8th" & 1/4" drive halfords ones were used.
A set of allen keys.
Feeler gauges, i used a draper set from machine mart.
Screwdrivers - Again, i used a halfords pro set.
Pliars
Big adjustable spanner
Grips
Wire brush.
Sandpaper

Anyway, starting off with the servicing.

First off, this should be done with the engine STONE cold. Not having been run that day, left to sit overnight. If its been ridden, or run then the metal will expand and mess up all your precise valvetrain measurements.

Take your big adjustable, set it at somewhere around 23-24mm, and remove the exhaust tappet cover.

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0668.jpg

Underneath you'll find this:

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0669.jpg

Remove the spark plug cap, it just pulls off.

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0660.jpg

And remove the spark plug - I belive it's some sort of odd size, however the long 17mm socket in the halfords 3/8" set undoes it nicely.

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0661.jpg

Now, move round to the other side of the engine. We need to remove the camshaft sprocket cover. 1/4 drive socket set, long extension bar and the 8mm socket works wonders here. There are two bolts.

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0670.jpg

With the two bolts removed, give the cover a light pull and it'll pop off.

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0672.jpg

Leaving you with this:

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0671.jpg

Now, onto the bottom end. There are what looks like two flat headed screws on the side casing. see pic below:

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0674.jpg

They were VERY stiff, and i ended up using an impact driver to release them. Turn said impact driver like a normal screwdriver, and hit the end LIGHTLY with a hammer and you'll see em come undone. See below:

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0676.jpg

The lower hole has the crankshaft bolt on it, and the upper allows acess to the timing mark. Get your 17mm long socket on the bolt and rotate it till you see some marks on the disc through the top hole.

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0680.jpg

The marks look like this:

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0677.jpg

You'll find theres three vertical lines, and one horizontal - in a pattern that looks like (from left to right) I----I I, You need to turn the crankshaft bolt so that the arrow points to the third I (the one without a line joining it to the next one)

At which point, check the timing on the camshaft sprocket. Theres a line on the sprocket, and a small pointy bit on the top of the cam cover. They should be lined up, as shown below:

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0678.jpg

You've at this point got the engine set at TDC, or Top Dead Centre. I.e the piston is at its highest point. Double check that both marks are lined up, if they're not then rotate the engine and set it again, it is VERY important!!

Now, get your feeler gauges. For the exhaust tappet (front of the bike) the clearance should be 0.10-0.14mm or 0.0039-0.0055" depending on if you have metric or imperial guages.

You might find you dont have precisely 0.10mm in the feeler gauge, I went with the closest option (remember - anywhere inbetween those figures is perfectly fine!)

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0681.jpg

Measure the gap shown here - if the feeler gauge blade is loose in there it needs adjustment.

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0682.jpg

Now, get ahold of the top of the adjuster screw with some pliars (or the official yamaha tool if you can get one...), and crack off the lock nut with an 8mm spanner.

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0683.jpg

Then you need to get a mate to hold the feeler gauges in there, tighten the screw with the pliars till it just starts to grip the feeler gauge, hold the tip still with the pliars and tighten the locknut up.

Remove the feeler gauge, check that it can be re inserted. If you cant get it back in there, its too tight.

Now, the intake sides a bit more tricky.

Remove the plastic side panel - the one with the key slot in it. turn the key, pull it out at the front, then slide it off.

Disconnect the cable going to the oil pressure switch (pinch and pull), and remove the switch with a 17mm spanner.

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0684.jpg

Remove the intake tappet cover (exactly the same as the exhaust one), you can see it here a bit more clearly - on the opposite side of the head.

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0687.jpg

Same proceedure for adjusting the clearance, however it needs to be set differently. The intake side clearances are: 0.08-0.12mm or 0.0031-0.0047"

You may find you do not have the right size blade - in which case use two at the same time. Lay em on top of each other.

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0686.jpg

Rotate the crankshaft bolt all the way round a few times and listen for any bangs, and feel for any jamming. If it jams the valves are going to hit the piston when you start it and muller your engine. If its all nice and smooth then bolt it all back together, exactly how it came apart.

If this is your service, you'll be fitting a fresh plug. An NGK CR6HSA to be precise. Below is a plug that'd done 3000 miles next to a new un!

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0663.jpg

Check the plug gap with the feeler gauges - it should be 0.6-0.7mm or 0.024-0.028"

Measure as shown below

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0656.jpg

If too loose, give it a tap on the wall and measure again.

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0658.jpg

Too tight, use the pliars to pull the tip up a smidge. BE GENTLE. I've never had to do this unless i've tapped the wall too hard..

Do the plug up finger tight

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0664.jpg

and give it a little "nip" up with the socket. NO MORE THAN 1/4 TURN!! normally, 1/8th is all it needs! shown below:

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0665.jpg

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0666.jpg

Push the spark plug cap back on:

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0667.jpg

And fire her up!

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0688.jpg

Listen for any bangs, knocks or unusual noises. Slightest hint of anything wrong, switch it off and check everything you just did.

If you're doing your service you're probbably thinking "what a divvy, you change the oil on a service"

Yes, yes you do - but if its HOT then it all comes out easier, leaving you with a cleaner engine. So let that bike tick over on idle, make yourself a cup of tea.

Drink tea.

Switch off bike.

Now, get your drain tray - in this case an old lunchbox and put it underneath the sump bolt - as shown below.

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0690.jpg

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0689.jpg

Remove the dipstick - oils coming out, air needs to get in to replace it or it's gonna glug and take longer, and get messy.

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0693.jpg

17mm spanner, and undo the bolt - without dropping it in the rapidly filling oil pan.

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0692.jpg

At which point the beautiful sunny day did this to me:

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0698.jpg

Followed thirty seconds later by:

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0699-1.jpg

Note the drain tray still filling up under the cover...

Anyway,

Sump bolt. Clean and fit new gasket/washer.

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0697.jpg

Bolt back in, again just a little nip up tight.

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0701.jpg

Oil, dont know what you guys want to use - however for the extra £1 or so i used the proper yamaha stuff.

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0702.jpg

Put a funnel in the dipstick hole, and pour in the whole bottle. It only needs 1 litre, the small bottles contain one litre.

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0705.jpg

Put the dipstick back in, and you're done...

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0707.jpg

However you've got a pan of exactly one litre of smelly oil. The solution?

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0709.jpg

Bottle it, either then dispose of it correctly, bin it, or keep it for use as chain lube.

Air filter should also be changed on the service - however couldnt find anywhere with one in stock. Give us 48 hours and i'll post up the air cleaner change.

However in the meantime, my exhaust is severely rusty and fucked up. As is the exhaust on most YBR's...so, the £7 and 15 mins of your time fix?

High heat paint, satin black. Matt black will mark easily and be a shit to clean, gloss runs easily and is hard to do a good job. Satin hides runs, is easy to clean and can make any fool look like a pro...

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0733.jpg

Undo this bolt (14mm from memory):

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0711.jpg

Get a mate to hang onto the exhaust and support it at this point.

Allen key/allen key socket on the two bolts on the engine.

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0712.jpg

Disconnect this pipe:

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0715.jpg

Pull exhaust off. Unless you have crash bars, in which case:

Remove this bolt, and give em a good pull forward a few inches to give you the clearance to pop the exhaust off:

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0714.jpg

With the exhaust on the deck, allen keys out and remove the plastic bits.

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0716.jpg

Being careful not to loose the silly washer things inside the rubber - some randomly fall out and they're f*cking tiny.

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0717.jpg

Remove the rubber pipe totally if you disconnected it at the wrong end like i did...

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0718.jpg

You should now have this:

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0719.jpg

Attack it with sandpaper, wire brush, whatever and get all the crappy bits off. I was loosing light and diddnt do a very good job tbh.

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0720.jpg

Hook it on your mothers washing line like so..

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0721.jpg

Start spraying and realise if you put a bolt in it it can be made not to fall off the line!

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0723.jpg

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0725.jpg

Spray some more, and realise a further improvement can be made with a bit of wire...(specificly from an old rabbit water bottle - the hooks are IDEAL)

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0726.jpg

Spray all over till you run out of paint. Extra coats on the front section where it rusts the most!

Fit exhaust back to bike, and bolt plastics on.

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0727.jpg

Looks much better!

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0732.jpg

Fire it up to warm paint & bake it on...

White smoke. Oh emmm geee. HEADGASKETS FUCKED!! oh wait, its air cooled. Dipshit. Brain just wasnt working at this point...

Evidently i'd dislodged a great amount of water inside the exhaust, as it came pissing out the drain hole too.

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0737.jpg

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0735.jpg

This is the drain hole on the bottom of the exhaust - its good, dont plug it up. its meant to be there, and it'll save your exhaust from a premature death.

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0736.jpg

Final thing on the to do list for today, was to replace the sidelight bulb which had blown.

Remove the two crosshead screws from either side of the headlamp

Left hand side:

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0740.jpg

Right hand side:

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0747.jpg

And pull the headlight assembly out from the bottom.

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0741.jpg

Pull the rubber sidelight holder out of the headlamp (just pulls out) and pull out the bulb, again just pulls out - no fancy clips

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0743.jpg

Start bike, push fit bulb (if it's an LED it wont light up if the wrong way round)

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0744.jpg

Push rubber connector back into hole, and refit headlight. Top slots in first THEN the bottom.

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0745.jpg

Then:

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0746.jpg

NOTE: if fitting the puig screen, fit it on nice and tight in position with the headlamp out, then refit the headlamp as shown above. Dont go attacking the lip with saws and grinders and stuff!!

The cats found all of this most interesting after i switched it off..

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0752.jpg

Which just leaves the photo's of the bodge up repair i did to get it home following the sprocket bolt coming out...

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0751.jpg

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0750.jpg

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0749.jpg

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0748.jpg

Chain tensioner was originally mangled up on top, was moved down the bottom to get it out of the way of the shock, the other side was put in the same way, wheel off, all the sprocket off the hub, the nut removed & all re-assembled.

Mainly fucked off that it took so much paint off the swingarm!! But that's a job for another day.

Tomorrow will be repairing the damage to the back end & doing a write up on chain tensioning, cleaning, lubing, rear brake adjustment & rear wheel alignment.

Poor bikes had around 1,000 miles put on it over the last week in all weathers & havent had a chance to clean it...hence she's looking a bit of a state & generally neglected!

Thumbs Up

____________________
Please be aware that the above post may be full of complete nonsense.
Riding: '07 KTM Duke II, Baotian BT49QT-20 Driving: '88 Volvo 340

MattJ · World Chat Champion Joined: 12 Nov 2010 Karma :

Copy that post and make it a thread in the Workshop section. Very informative and the pictures are great, should be a big help to YBR owners but might not get noticed in here. Thumbs Up

ceekay · Nova Slayer Joined: 16 Mar 2012 Karma :

Man, that is a great guide. Definitely be using it soon to change the headlights but i'll still be like this:
https://img.anongallery.org/img/4/1/i-have-no-idea-what-im-doing-dog.jpg
____________________
Yamaha YBR 125

Alpha-9 · Super Spammer Joined: 19 Jan 2012 Karma :

pepperami · Super Spammer Joined: 17 Jan 2010 Karma :

A really good and easy to follow post Thumbs Up

____________________
I am the sum total of my own existence, what went before makes me who I am now!

_Iain_ · Banned Joined: 01 Feb 2012 Karma :

Will put in the workshop once im finished writing all parts - cheers for the support though, glad to know its being noticed Thumbs Up

Anyway, Fucking sprocket bolt hasnt arrived...cheers inta's. 24 hours my arse. Now sorely wishing i'd ordered a couple with laguna's as i get the feeling i'll be waiting till saturday for one.

So, todays topic of choice? Rear wheel removal, how your drum brake works, replacing rear brake shoes, cleaning of drum, greasing wheel bearings up.

Also, the complete guide to the replacement of the air filter & other bits to do on the airbox.

WHEEL REMOVAL, DRUM BRAKE THEORY & AIR FILTER REPLACEMENT

First up, the rear wheel. 17mm spanner on one end, 19mm on the other and remove the nut:

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0756.jpg

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0757.jpg

Light tap on the end of the bolt with a hammer:

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0767.jpg

Hold the wheel in line with your feet, and give it a poke with your mankiest fucked up "ready for the bin" screwdriver. Light taps on the end to remove the axel

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0768.jpg

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0769.jpg

Pull out the chain tensioners, and the right hand wheel spacer, it'll probbably have fallen on the floor by this point. In the order they came out, it'll look like this

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0784.jpg

Remove the nut on the end of the brake rod, 14mm long socket on this. The jobs made easier if you push the brake arm forwards off the nut whilst doing it

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0758.jpg

Press the rear brake pedal down slowly, and the rod will pop out.

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0760.jpg

Remove the spring & washer, and put in a safe place with the nut.

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0761.jpg

Remove the split pin on the bottom of the drum, bend the ends straight and pull it out the top with needle nose pliars - as shown below:

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0762.jpg

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0764.jpg

12mm socket, and remove the nut. Push the bolt out. Put the split pin back in & put it all together in the same place as the brake nut and spring..

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0765.jpg

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0766.jpg

Roll the rear wheel forwards

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0770.jpg

Unhook the chain - rotating the wheel can make this easier!

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0771.jpg

And roll the wheel assembly out.

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0772.jpg

Pull off the sprocket/hub, and the brake assembly. Light pull on both and they just pop off.

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0774.jpg

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0777.jpg

Drum brake theory time:

You press the brake pedal, it pulls the arm. The little paddle thing rotates, forcing the shoes outward against the drum and slowing you down. Shown below, brakes off and brakes applied:

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0778.jpg

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0779.jpg

To replace the shoes, get your needle nosed pliars, unhook the two springs, put the new shoes on, and hook the springs back in place. Simples.

However, whilst we have it all apart we may aswell clean it right?

So - two options.

Tissue and scrub till all the shite comes out as shown on the drum:

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0800.jpg

Or, wurth brake/chain cleaner, good spray of and 30 seconds later good as new. As shown on the backing plate/shoes.

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0778.jpg

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0804.jpg

DO NOT, i repeat, DO NOT use anything other than BRAKE CLEANER. Use WD40 and guess whats going to happen? Oil reduces friction, brakes are designed to create friction. Brakes wont work. Resulting in high speed contact with...trees, cars, walls...hurty stuff.

Now, the greasy bit.

Starting with the brake backing plate/mechanism. Push the little bar with the hole in it out, clean, give a smear of grease and re-fit

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0780.jpg

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0786.jpg

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0787.jpg

Now the sprocket/hub assembly.

Remove the spacer from the inside, clean the bearing & spacer with tissue, re grease both & re fit

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0789.jpg

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0792.jpg

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0793.jpg

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0794.jpg

Flip it over, pull out the spacer on the sprocket side, clean this, clean inside the rubber seal, clean the bearing. Pack it all back out with grease and re fit...

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0791.jpg

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0795.jpg

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0797.jpg

And on the actual wheel, clean and grease the bearings on both sides

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0798.jpg

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0799.jpg

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0801.jpg

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0803.jpg

Putting it back together will be covered when my damn sprocket bolt gets here, as will the chain tension/cleaning/lubrication...however, it is as simple as put it back together how you found it.

So decided to get on with the air filter write up...without a replacement filter to go in as of yet. Rolling Eyes

Remove the 10mm bolt from the side panel on the RHS of the bike...

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0805.jpg

Grab the front of the panel here and pop it out. Requires a bit of force:

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0806.jpg

And slide it downwards to unclip the back:

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0808.jpg

Underneath is the airbox cover. It's got five crosshead screws that need removing:

[img][/img]

And for a clearer picture of the screw locations

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0809.jpg

Pull the air filter out, and chuck away

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0811.jpg

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0813.jpg

Remove the clip on the drain plug, and remove the plug. It'll probbably be full of water as nobody seems to check this on the service...

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0814.jpg

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0817.jpg

Empty it out, and refit

Get a tissue, and wipe up all the oil residue/water from the airbox itself - perfectly normal it being there, dont fuss!

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0818.jpg

Put new filter in, making sure that you fit the black sponge - had to pull it all apart again after finding one in the box.

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0819.jpg

Now, put the cover back on, 5 screws in. Re fit the side panel and you're done!
____________________
Please be aware that the above post may be full of complete nonsense.
Riding: '07 KTM Duke II, Baotian BT49QT-20 Driving: '88 Volvo 340

Ayrton · World Chat Champion Joined: 02 Sep 2010 Karma :

Good guide there. Get it copied over to a thread in the workshop though.

I also just realised i welded up the drain hole in my brothers ybr thinking it wasnt supposed to be there. Embarassed

_Iain_ · Banned Joined: 01 Feb 2012 Karma :

No bike, no work.

Lotta time on my hands, as you've probabbly guessed by the guide writing.

Got a PM through from Alpha-9 asking about the sprocket change, so yeah...you guessed it. Written up a guide.

WHY?

By fitting a 13 tooth sprocket, you're downgearing the bike. What does this mean? Well basicly you're sacrificing top speed for acceleration.

However...

The YBR is hopelessly overgeared as standard. It's got gearing to pull 90mph at the redline...and anyone who's got one knows it'll never get there. By downgearing, we are exchanging a few extra RPMs on the rear wheel for more turning force. So basicly, the bike can pull more.

The result? It can handle hills more easily...It accelerates quicker. And because of this extra pulling power, it can reach a higher top speed...and maintain this speed!

With the 13t sprocket on it, 70mph at 9,000rpm is possible with a slight downhill. On the flat expect between 60-65, and up steep hills around 55mph. Compare this to a top speed of 70 that was almost impossible to reach & required a full "tuck", 50-60 on the flat, and uphill dropping as low as 35-40mph & downshifting.

WHAT?

Parts i used were designed for a >05 bike. Cost around £5 posted from a seller on eBay, and it was made by RPM.

FITTING?
Simples. Get your crosshead screwdriver out and remove the two screws shown in the pics. LHS of the bike.

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/2f8c778b.jpg

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/39c3cbab.jpg

Hold the gear lever down as far as it'll go and pull the cover up and out.

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/43bd922a.jpg

Under which, you find your sprocket. Remove the two allen key bolts from the front of it, and remove the plate thingy (technical i know..) it'll want a little turn to remove it, as this is how it holds the sprocket on.

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/80ffbd86.jpg

Pinched a photo from google here...apologies. Your plate will look like this:

https://images.wemoto.com/full/SPROCKET_FRONT_RETAINER/10027837.jpg

However your sprocket wont fit like that. You cant get both bolts in...so, get your needle file out and modify it so it looks like the one below:

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/0b48d4c0.jpg

Measure it up against the sprocket to double check it fits propperly:

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/0520a29a.jpg

At which point you'll find your bolts just dont fit. The OEM bolts are one size smaller...Any allen key bolts will do, but they do have to be allen key bolts as otherwise they will hit the chain. Make sure the length is identical aswell or you'll smash holes in the gearbox casing.

Best bet is to just take the original screws and the new sprocket up to the local hardware shop, and say "i want bolts this length that fit in there" and match em up. I happened to have some lying around.

Now, pop the chain off. Loosen up the rear axel, and undo the tensioners to get enough slack in the chain to do it. See the guide above.

Slide the original sprocket off, new one on. Chain back on. Retainer plate back on. Two allen key bolts back in and voila:

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/94c5e9e7.jpg

I've done around 1,000 miles on mine with no greif. Still nice and tight on there and not showing any wear as you can see!

Please do make sure that the allen key bolts you use dont hit the chain though - it'll fuck stuff up. if they need to be smaller, spend the time with the needle file and grind the bolt heads down slightly to give yourself the clearance.
Tensioning the chain will be covered with piccies as soon as i get my sprocket bolt and can re attach the back wheel to the bike...

Thumbs Up

____________________
Please be aware that the above post may be full of complete nonsense.
Riding: '07 KTM Duke II, Baotian BT49QT-20 Driving: '88 Volvo 340

ceekay · Nova Slayer Joined: 16 Mar 2012 Karma :

Again, this is excellent. This post needs to have comments removed and stickied somewhere. Great job.

Having tried to hit a top speed last night I quickly realised that, as you said, 65mph is the limit (downhill Shocked

). The wee 125 seems to pull enough for me so (correct me if i'm wrong) a larger rear sprocket would help?

My understanding is that this may result in more acceleration lag but ultimately a higher top speed?

Is that essentially what you've done here? I'm checking because you mention that the acceleration is quicker and it will reach a higher top speed.

I thought there was a trade off.

Again, Would love to see more of these. Thumbs Up

____________________
Yamaha YBR 125

P. · Red Rocket Joined: 14 Feb 2008 Karma :

ceekay.

A YBR wont see more than a genuine 70 ... even down a hill.
Even if you gear it for 80, it will not have the power to get there.

There is a distinct trade off

_Iain_ · Banned Joined: 01 Feb 2012 Karma :

There is a trade off. You're exhanging 90mph at 10,000 revs for 75mph at 10,000.

However because we diddnt have the "pull" to reach the 90mph it ran out of steam at about 65.

Downgearing the bike is about getting more pull and less speed.

It pulls you to 65mph but wont go any more - the downgearing gives it that little bit more.

You see?

Larger rear sprocket = downgearing

And its more expensive/harder to fit.

We're only loosing one tooth on the front, so therefore one extra link of chain which can be adjusted out on the tensioners. To achive the same by fitting a bigger rear you'd end up loosing multiple links and the tensioners wouldnt have a big enough range of adjustment to cope. Thus you'd have to alter the chain length and have a shorter one fitted.

Paddys right though - 80mph would take balls of steel and a massively long steep hill, with perfect weather conditions Thumbs Up

____________________
Please be aware that the above post may be full of complete nonsense.
Riding: '07 KTM Duke II, Baotian BT49QT-20 Driving: '88 Volvo 340

ceekay · Nova Slayer Joined: 16 Mar 2012 Karma :

Cool, makes sense guys. I'd like to be able to get to the single carraigeway NSL without ragging the tits off it.

Will do a bit of reading on it - your guide will be invaluable too.
____________________
Yamaha YBR 125

P. · Red Rocket Joined: 14 Feb 2008 Karma :

Diddylord · Renault 5 Driver Joined: 04 Jul 2011 Karma :

really interesting and well written thread, I used to have a ybr almost identical to yours, one thing that kept it looking almost like new when I sold it with 4,000 all weather miles on it was acf 50, brilliant stuff and stopped any rust forming anywhere even the exhaust.

_Iain_ · Banned Joined: 01 Feb 2012 Karma :

Have to give the ACF-50 a shot. I've been hearing good things about it from everyone tbh.

Inta's fucked me propperly this time, as have Laguna's. Inta's quoted me 24hours for the sprocket bolt...still not here. Laguna's 48hours for an air filter has suddenly become "Next wednesday or maybe thursday"

ANC motorcycles - Wren industrial estate, bircholt road. They own the unit next to my work, boss popped in to see if they had one..."no we dont, bring the bolt up and we'll match something up"

Took the bolt up, they tried hacksawing heads in half on bolts, putting em in grinders, and eventually came up with an allen key bolt that fitted. "dont worry bout paying for it mate, its a bolt - we can get you the proper yamaha one in 24 hours, and it'll be £0.71. If intas aint got it sorted for you by monday, give me a call and i'll order you one"

Top bloke, think i've found a new parts supplier. Thumbs Up

SO anyway.

On with re fitting the rear wheel.

Wind the chain tensioners out a load like so:

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/36dc0f15.jpg

Hold the screw part still with a socket, and crack the nut off with a spanner - same locknut setup as you've got on the tappets.

Line up tensioner on RHS with the big spacer, and slot the axel through a little.

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/99d26aea.jpg

Sit behind the bike, put your feet under the wheel, lift it up with feet so its in line and gently tap the axel all the way through, refitting the LHS tensioner when the bolt comes out of the sprocket. Whack the wheel nut on, LOOSELY.

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/5bf20b1f.jpg

Wind the LHS (sprocket side) tensioner in untill the chain tightens up:

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/3981fe22.jpg

Check tension - press two fingers on the bottom of the chain right about here:

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/557358f5.jpg

You want to be able to move it about 1 inch up and down total, so half inch up, half inch down...3/4 inch up and 1/4 inch down is fine too, long as its no more, or less than about an inch.

Pressed upwards:

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/05d9a4fd.jpg

Pressed downwards:

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/77c8fa2c.jpg

Now wind the RHS chain tensioner in to approximately the same position. Check the chain tension again...if its the same, great, if not loosen them both one turn at a time till it's perfect again.

Wheel alignment time. We want the wheel straight or the bike's going to handle very very strangely and be generally shit at corners.

Take an envolope/piece of paper, press against the sprocket side chain tensioner and mark how far away it is from the swinging arm:

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/98edb931.jpg

Take this round the other side, and measure it up to see if it's the same:

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/74ad16cb.jpg

Mine needed to be wound out a few turns...after adjusting it:

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/98d0476b.jpg

At this point, nip up the locknuts, whilst holding the tensioner screw with your socket.

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/3981fe22.jpg

Tighten rear axel up fully, then check chain tension, and measure both tensioners again - if they need adjustment, loosen the axel nut off one or two turns and adjust.

Chains now tensioned, and wheels aligned.

Re fit the small bolt & split pin on the brake drum:

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0762.jpg

Reconnect the brake rod exactly how it came apart (spring, washer, brake arm, nut - in that order), tighten the nut up till the rear wheel starts getting hard to turn. Then loosen the nut off untill it stops getting easier to turn.

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/IMG_0758.jpg

Spin the wheel by hand, step on the brake pedal - should be nice and sharp. Goodstuff. When you road test it roll it along at about 5mph and test it first...Make sure it stops you. You dont want to go off, twat it up the road at 60+mph and then find the brakes dont work!! LOW SPEED BRAKE TEST BEFORE YOU RIDE!!

Chain cleaning time..

Parrafin im told works very well at this, or use a spray chain cleaner. I realy do rate the wurth chain/brake cleaner for getting the crud off it!

Take a toothbrush. Dip it in the parrafin and scrub on the section shown, or spray your cleaner onto the chain, then scrub with the toothbrush. Rotate the rear wheel BY HAND after you've cleaned the section you can see. Scrub it on the top, bottom and both sides! Clean the whole chain.

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/92b05cd4.jpg

Chain lube, i found the wurth stuff to be a bit cack. I found motor oil not to last very long. Currently using the Castrol stuff - cheaper than the wurth by far.

Spray a quick coat left to right on the section of chain shown here:

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/4e28e396.jpg

Again, rotate the rear wheel, and realy coat the top in the lube.

Go to the sprocket and spray again on the outside edge of the chain as shown below:

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/dd551d0a.jpg

Be warned, it comes out pretty damn quick and it's very easy to spray too much on first time using the stuff..leaving you with this godawful mess:

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/ea4e7d91.jpg

It's very sticky when it dries, so best to get it off off wheels asap, or be cleverer than me, and put some newspaper over the wheel whist cleaning/lubing. Cleaning it off is a grim job Sad

That said, i know i'd rather have too much lube on there than too little!

Anyway, leave it all to dry, have a cuppa and come back.

And you're done. Tensioned correctly, cleaned and lubed up. Go easy on it for the first few miles, just to make sure everythings right where it should be and feels okay, and do check that there's no chain lube ended up on your rear tyre. Asking for a crash realy if you lean it over in a bend and half the tyres coated in castrol's finest!

Your YBR chain should be cleaned and lubed every 600miles, once a week, or whenever it's been ridden in the wet/been washed.

You might wanna skimp on it - but remember, a badly adjusted, badly lubed chain is going to eat horsepower. And a YBR doesnt have enough not to miss it!

https://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o574/_Iain_/e13c4f64.jpg

Realy needs a good wash now![/img]
____________________
Please be aware that the above post may be full of complete nonsense.
Riding: '07 KTM Duke II, Baotian BT49QT-20 Driving: '88 Volvo 340

P. · Red Rocket Joined: 14 Feb 2008 Karma :

Next time, just spray the inside of the chain Thumbs Up

JustGraham · Could Be A Chat Bot Joined: 29 Oct 2011 Karma :

Quality thread Ian, Will be very helpful to some people and nice clear pics too Karma

ceekay · Nova Slayer Joined: 16 Mar 2012 Karma :

Just ordered some Osram Night Breakers for my YBR. One thing to note is that the 2008 model YBR is not the standard H4 fitments (should have checked, I know). So.. anyone want to buy some cheap H4 bulbs? Wink

Also any suggestions to replace the crap stock bulb?
____________________
Yamaha YBR 125

_Iain_ · Banned Joined: 01 Feb 2012 Karma :

You'd have to find out what bulb was actually in there first.

Or - call round a few bike breakers and purchase the later model H4 fitment headlamp?
____________________
Please be aware that the above post may be full of complete nonsense.
Riding: '07 KTM Duke II, Baotian BT49QT-20 Driving: '88 Volvo 340