Removing sprocket carrier bearing remains...

[Mungel]

Found the source of the strange clunking noise when moving off from stand still....

https://cdn.bikechatforums.com/files/bearing1.jpg

That is the remains of my sprocket carrier bearing
Those are the few ball bearings which remained intact.
The squashed bits were also ball bearings, once..

Now I have a problem. As the bearing has collapsed, the outer ring of the bearing is stuck in the sprocket carrier and despite soaking it all night with plus gas, it just won't budge. I'm thinking I might try to dremel it out, but I don't want to bugger up the carrier. Any ideas?

https://cdn.bikechatforums.com/files/bearing2.jpg
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Mungel
ZZR600 (dead) - ZX9R (sold) - FZ1S

[alun111]

Have you got a socket the same size as the recess? If so put it in there and hit it hard with a lump hammer or something.
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Summer: '00 Honda CB600F Hornet
Winter: '93 Suzuki GSF 400 Bandit VP Variable Valve
Past Bikes: Lifan LF100-5 Lifan LF125-A Honda C70

[Mungel]

Unfortunately the outer bearing shell fits flush to a lip on the carrier, so you can't get anything on the bearing to hit it with. (it only comes out in one direction)

See my wicked paint diagram that shows what I mean
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Mungel
ZZR600 (dead) - ZX9R (sold) - FZ1S

[Walloper]

[Nick_Giles]

Similar happend to me the other week changing a sprocket bearing on an ER5

I GRADUALY tapped it out with an old screwdriver and hammer.

first few 'whacks' quite hard to break its self created seal.

Then gentle hit / tapping order of :-

12 o'clock - 6 o'clock

9 o'clock - 3 o'clock

Take your time and dont rush even when its nearly out.

I know its far from textbook bearing removal but it worked for me. Then used the old bearing ring to drift the new bearing back in.

Nick

p.s. -------- Did I mention. Take your time, tap it gradually & dont rush.
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Peter Cook: "I have learned from my mistakes, and I am sure I can repeat them exactly".

[stinkwheel]

Take the rubbers and sprocket off and put the whole thing in the oven for an hour or so at 200 degrees.

Set it with the open end of the bearing seat facing down and it might even fall out itself.

If it doesn't, lift it out (carefully), set it on a couple of bits of wood and see if you can get a punch on the edge of the race from the back.

If it is your own oven, carry on. If it is likely to cause domestic strife, make sure it's fully degreased then washed in hot soapy water before proceeding out or the kitchen will smell of burning oil when they get back and they'll know you were up to something.

A small groove in the bearing seat cut with a dremel shouldn't prevent the new bearing seating. Good luck cutting it with a dremmel though.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[Mungel]

Thanks for all the advice.

[Nick_Giles]

[stinkwheel]

[Casper]

My bottom head bearing was the same when trying to tap it out from the other side. I just used an old small chisel which managed to open a slight gap when tapping round and round. Once it was a wider gap i could get in with an old screwdriver.

[Mungel]

Well, I've had no luck locating a dremel and my hands are sore from hitting the bloody thing with a chisel/screwdriver/punch. It won't budge. Not even slightly.

I have a blowtorch to hand. Maybe some heat can help things along? What bit should I try to heat up? The race or the carrier? Will it even help?
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Mungel
ZZR600 (dead) - ZX9R (sold) - FZ1S

[mentalboy]

Alloy expands a lot quicker than steel so heat carrier as best as you can, just be careful with the torch and try to heat around the carrier as evenly as you can. Paintwork will probably suffer unless you've got a surgeons touch,
Good luck
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Make mine a Corona.

[Pete.]

That's an easy one. Re-build the bearing without the cage by putting all the balls in one side, offering up the centre part and then moving the balls around to distribute them evenly. Use grease to make them stick in place. You need to use a minimum of three balls but six or more would be better.

Now you can whack out the bearing using a drift on the inner race.
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a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good

[The Artist]

Having done this a couple of times before, one time it was exactly like yours, destroyed bearing, I say hit it harder. Get a punch on the inside of the race and hit it as hard as possible. It will go, it just needs persuasion.

[Mungel]

[Pete.]

Cool
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a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good

[Casper]

I dont understand how that works. Would the centre not just fall out when you turn it over? I take it there is a lip holding the bearings in place at both sides and the bearings are taking the impact.

[Mungel]

There is a slight recess on the inner and outer races that the bearings sit in. Its very slight but once you have the bearings spaced equally around, the inner race won't fall out. It makes perfect sense, but I would never have thought of it..
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Mungel
ZZR600 (dead) - ZX9R (sold) - FZ1S

[Casper]

[stinkwheel]

[Sako]

that is a brilliant piece of advice, impressed!