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difference between textiles and leathers?

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RooRoo
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PostPosted: 23:35 - 16 Jun 2004    Post subject: difference between textiles and leathers? Reply with quote

I have a leather jacket, and textiled trousers, both with armour..wondering what the difference is in terms of protection
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tatters
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PostPosted: 00:09 - 17 Jun 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

leather will take a lot more fiction and is stronger and lasts longer
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rsooty
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PostPosted: 00:17 - 17 Jun 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

From what i know they both offer good protection... Leathers aren't quite as waterproof but as long as they have kevlar protection or equivalent you wont have many problems. If you need anymore help a good website to use is https://www.insidebikes.com there are some excellent tips on there for all types of riders.
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T.C
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PostPosted: 10:10 - 17 Jun 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

How long have you got for me to explain in any detail?

Leather is at the moment still the ultimate covering for protection providing it fits right! When new it nees to be a skin tight fit as it will then mould to your shape and become a snug comfortable fit rather than a loose baggy fit due to the fact that leather will stretch by up to 3cm in the first few months of use. With a good fit, in the event that you take a fall, the leather will not only be abrasion resistant, but it will allow you to slide and it will hold broken bones together in the event that you break something. A good fitting leather can also slow down internal bleeding.

If the leather is too big or baggy, as you slide down the road it will cause drag and friction, and if it snags your arm or leg could end up doing 0 MPH whilst the rest of you is still doing 20, 30 or whatever speed you came off at, and it will not hold bones together.

Cordura is the most common man made material to be used in bike gear, and again its abrasion and protective qualities are very good. On the plus side it is windproof, waterproof and breathable (providing it has a membrane such as Goretex, Permatex, Aquatex or similar) and it will keep you warm in the winter, cool in the summer and it can in many cases be used as a casual with a whole range of colours and styles available. On the downside, because there is no give in the material, it cannot fit the same way as leather i,e skin tight, so in the event that bones are broken it won't act as a splint, so in real terms, Cordura or man made fibres are more of a compromise.

However, the upper body tends to suffer less than the lower body in bike accidents, so many riders often wear leather trousers with Cordura jackets as this offers a good balance between protection, comfort, weather proofing and flexibility.

I could take up another hour of your time with case studies in respect of the fit, quality and the like and I am sure you are not interested in that, but I hope this gives you a brief run down on the differences.
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RooRoo
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PostPosted: 10:24 - 17 Jun 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

yeah it does - thanks a lot Smile
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Bendy
Mrs Sensible



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PostPosted: 13:18 - 17 Jun 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

There are some very nice leather/textile mixes out there - textile for comfort but leather on the bits you're more likely to land on. Like your arse. Smile

I would have been very tempted by a pair of the trousers had it not been for the fact that you have to have leathers for trackdays.
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rsooty
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PostPosted: 14:59 - 17 Jun 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you cant find a good pair of leathers in your price why not try second hand? I bought a 1 piece frank thomas xtreeme race suit for £200 in excellent condition.
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Frost
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PostPosted: 21:46 - 17 Jun 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Leather provides the best protection, however it is often far from comforatble! Textiles can breathe, and setrect to meet your needs. in the future leather will likely become outdated with textiles becoming more advanced. however for the time being and for the forseeable future leather is the ultimate in protection.
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Josh
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PostPosted: 21:56 - 17 Jun 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Leather is also useful for infiltrating the funnest nightclubs.


Rolling Eyes
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Frost
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PostPosted: 22:26 - 17 Jun 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Josh wrote:
Leather is also useful for infiltrating the funnest nightclubs.


Rolling Eyes


You'd be the expert there Wink
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AcIdBuRnZ
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PostPosted: 02:51 - 22 Jun 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

One is made from cotton and other man made fibres and the other from a cow.

Gee Rolling Eyes
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Frost
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PostPosted: 03:00 - 22 Jun 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

AcIdBuRnZ wrote:
One is made from cotton and other man made fibres and the other from a cow.

Gee Rolling Eyes


alot of leathers are made from kangeroos.
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AcIdBuRnZ
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PostPosted: 03:07 - 22 Jun 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
alot of leathers are made from kangeroos.


Ok, smart arse Rolling Eyes

Mark
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T.C
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PostPosted: 09:54 - 22 Jun 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

DaFrostyOne wrote:
AcIdBuRnZ wrote:
One is made from cotton and other man made fibres and the other from a cow.

Gee Rolling Eyes


alot of leathers are made from kangeroos.


And a lot are made from Goat and Buffalo. Kangaroo is the strongest hide available but it does react to sweat if not treated properly although it is very light but expensive, Goat is second only to kangaroo, very supple, very light and very strong, Buffalo is very heavy and strong but it takes a long time to bed it in.

1 mm of Goat or Kangaroo will afford far more strength than 1.4mm of average cow hide!
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FragReaper
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PostPosted: 21:37 - 22 Jun 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Leathers look waaaaay cooler Cool
Get a dainese set. I opted for "last seasons" Cool jacket, only cost me 200 Very Happy Fell off at 30mph in it, one minor scuff on the left elbow otherwise the jacket is fine Very Happy (infact the jacket was my first concern whilst sliding the tarmac Wink)
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BlueNinja
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PostPosted: 12:59 - 18 Dec 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Heres some more on what T.C wrote.. A really good read, Thanks T.C! Thumbs Up

Quote:
Leathers are still considered the best form of protection in that it is a natural material with good anti abrasion qualities, it is breathable, strong and will if fitted correctly mould to the individual shape of the wearer.

There are for the main part 4 types of skin that are used, Cowhide, Goatskin, Kangaroo hide and Buffalo. Cowhide is the most popular simply because it is readily available and quite cheap. It is quite a heavy skin, but in some cases this is no bad thing. Goatskin is reckoned to be twice as strong as Cowhide, but is half the weight although it is very much more supple than cow which can also be said for Kangaroo, although at one time Goat used to be considerably more expensive than Cow. Kangaroo is getting quite a following these days, but it has to be specialy treated because it can react with body sweat but it is very supple and has some terrific propertues, whilst Buffalo is by its very nature very thick and heavy and can take a long time to bed in, but will last for ages although it is often cheaper than the other three.

Many magazines and papers will tell you that Cowhide should be a minimum of 1.4 mm thickness! The thickness has no bearing on its protective qualities if it is a rubbish leather, a good 1.1 mm of quality leather will afford more protection than 1.4 or 1.5 mm of rubbish, and the quality of the leather can be determined by looking to see if the manufacturer produces anything in white. White is the hardest colour for leather to accept, and often a cheap leather dyed white will have a grey tint to it and will feel quite hard in comparison to anything dyed black, whereas a good quality white will feel the same quality throughout the colour range, so as a quick reference this can sometimes provide a quick guide to the quality of the manufacturer you are looking to purchase.

Stitching should be a minimum of double stitched and around stress areas it should be triple stitched and there should be no more than 7 stitches to the inch. Any patterns in the desighn should be as an overlay and should not be an integral part of the design as this will mean that there is a potential weakness in the design and it is an area likely to burst in the event of a crash, and body armour should be removeable, although whether you go for soft or hard is down to individual taste, personally I prefer soft armour as hard armour has caused to many serious injuries in the past.

Whether you go for 1 peice or two is again down to personal choice, but for road use 2 peice is more practical and is often safer than its 1 peice counterpart for reasons I will discuss in a later thread, what is important is the quality of fit, and it is the fit that can really determine whether you end up being seriously injured rather than bruised and less severely injured.

When new, leather should be as tight as you can get it. Two reasons for this, firstly leather will give by up to two inches and will mould to your shape, and secondly if it is too big to start with and you go sliding down the road, it will cause friction and this could slow you down too quickly causing limbs to be pulled from their sockets resulting in severe bone, muscle and ligament damage. If it is too big to start with it will only get bigger, so the problem could be made worse and it defeats wearing a leather in the first place. A good fitting leather will in the event of a crash hold broken bones together as a splint would until medical help gets to you, and in the worst case scenario it can also reduce blood loss by holding everything together again until medical help gets to you.

When you buy a leather, avoid wearing things like a jumper underneath your jacket as this will gibe the wrong fitment guide, wear nothing more than a T shirt as this will ensure a good fit (even a little restrictive when new is good) and then if it gets cold wear something like an anorack over the top as this will protect your leather but actually provide greater warmth as a pocket of warm air is created between your outer jacket and leather which you will not get if you wear a jumper underneath.

If you are looking to buy seperates over a period of time, then think legs and feet first. Feet and legs take the brunt of any collision and subsequently suffer from more injuries than any other part of the body except your head, the upper body usually gets away the lightest (although there are always exceptions to every rule) so think abouut a good pair of boots (which I will cover in a seperate thread) and trousers rather than a jacket, as this will at least mean your most vulnerable part of the body has some protection, a jacket should be your last item, although you probably feel you won't look as cool.

There are various products that can be used to treat your leathers and help keep them in good condition, but the one thing to remember is that despite the claims of some manufacturers, leather is not waterproof, and if it gets wet it should be allowed to dry naturally don't try and dry it too quickly, and then once it is dry treat it so that all the natural oils are put back into the garment. Some products will afford a degree of showerproofness (if that is the right word) but in persistant rain water will still get iin, and this can also cause the stitching to rot which can then burst when you least need it to.
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binge
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PostPosted: 02:16 - 19 Dec 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

My dad got a 1 piece leathers (second hand, but unused... It was a display set in a shop)
I think he only gave £80 for them AND he found a tenner in 1 of the pockets Wink

He got them from Ebay
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greatmoorred
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PostPosted: 19:24 - 14 Jul 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

hang on, if they were unused how did the tenner get into the pocket ?
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colin1
Captain Safety



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PostPosted: 20:42 - 14 Jul 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

I bought a newish leather with bits of textile 2 piece. I also bought an old one piece of very sturdy leather which has lots of perforations. This is far more comfortable as the air can blow through the perforations. Lots of little holes on chest, shoulders, back and thighes is far more breathable than fabric and you get the protection of leather.

Only problem is its too big for me and I should get one which fits. If i do I will try to get one similar but in my size. Tho to be honest the loose fit lets even more air through. A tight fit would be safer but a loose fit is no worse than textiles which are loose anyway.
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Bikerburns
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PostPosted: 17:57 - 20 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am thinking of going for leathers, although isn't it more expensive? or no?

Lloyd
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Howling Terror
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PostPosted: 20:03 - 20 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is a very old thread, but your question is still relevant.
Yes and no is the answer.

ebay search both types.

Pat
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Bikerburns
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PostPosted: 22:17 - 20 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Holy....

I didn't realise it was 5 years old! haha

One more question; Is it recommended, not to buy second hand leathers?

Thanks for the advice

Lloyd
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Howling Terror
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PostPosted: 22:24 - 20 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Earlier in this thread someone mentions good fitting leathers.
So if they're 2nd hand with no frayed seams and fit like glove then i see no problems in buying 2nd hand.

The price difference between the 2 is smaller now.
Most riders end up with 2 of everything.

I've got a few bike shops nearby so i pop in, try a few things on and scurry off to t'internet. Did get a nice set of leathers from a bike show that beat the online prices.


Pat
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Towton 1461
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PostPosted: 22:55 - 20 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

binge wrote:
I think he only gave £80 for them AND he found a tenner in 1 of the pockets Wink


Oi, did that tenner have picture of the Queen's head on it? Cos if it
did, that's mine. I remember leaving it a new set of leathers I tried
on while back but didn't buy.

PM me. I'll give you my address to send it to.
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The last post was made 13 years, 344 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful?
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