5-wire CDI bike wiring diagram

[markhanoi83]

Hi all,

I had a working Honda GL150. I decided to redo the wiring, which turned out to be a bad plan, because for some reason I can't get the thing to work again.

It is a kick-start bike, and I want to use it without a battery and just connect the required wires only, stripping everything else.

If I look on the wiring, the following is coming out of the engine block:

engine block:
- white wire (I connected it to the regulator)
- yellow wire (I connected it to the regulator)
- green-ish or blue-ish wire (Connected to other ground wires, but what else should I connect it to. To the frame or something else??)
- blue/yellow wire (Connected to the ignition coil)
- green wire (connected to the ignition coild AND to all the ground wires)
- black/red wire (connected to the CDI)'

On the CDI, there are 5 wires
- black/red (Connected to engine-block)
- blue/white (Connected to ignition coil)
- green wire (Connected to ignition coil AND to all earth wires)
- black/yellow (Connected to engine-block)
- white/black (kill-switch wire. I think this should NOT be connected and if I connect it to Earth wire, it will kill the engine?)

Regulator:
- red wire (Not connected to anything)
- green wire (Connected to all earth wires)
- yellow wire (Connected to engine block)
- white wire (Connected to engine block)

This seems to be correct with an image I found on the net:
https://www.hooperimports.com/images/Engine_Wiring/5_wire_Lifan_Wiring_041605_HI.jpg

The only thing I am wondering and what might be wrong:
- My earth connection
- Red wire not connected anywhere. On a 4 wire CDI it would be connected to the CDI
- Kill-switch should be connected yes/no and to the Red or the earth wire?

Anyone has any advice for me on what to do next, OR has a Honda GL 150cc wiring diagram for me?

Thanks in advance for all the help!

[tomh]

Can you take photos of all the main plugs as some of them colours dont match up to me. Also since you have that black/red wire from the engine to CDI that tells me that the CDI is powered from the Stator and no power will be needed from the reg/rec.

I'll start with the engine wiring, if it's the usual CG type wiring it will be:

Engine wiring
White wire - To Reg/Rec (1 of the power coils)
Yellow wire - To Reg/Rec (1 of the power coils)
Black/red wire - To the CDI (1 of the power coils)
Green wire - To the frame earth

Now this is where it differs:

I would say, Blue/yellow wire - To the CDI (This is the wire that tells the CDI when to spark)

The other wire should be your Neutral light, you can see this if you remove your sprocket cover and you'll see the wire going to the neutral switch. For the time being leave this disconnected.

CDI
Black/red wire - To the engine
Green wire - To the engine and frame
Black/white wire - To the ignition/kill switch (You are correct in saying connecting this to the earth will prevent the ignition coil from sparking. The bike will still start if you dont connect this wire but you will need to stall the engine to cut it out)

I would connect the Black/yellow wire to the ignition coil, not the engine.

And then I assume the Blue/white is infact Blue/yellow and connect that to the engine wiring.

Reg/Rec

All this is correct, with the red wire now providing power for anything you want powered with a 12v circuit.

Once you've done this it should start

[markhanoi83]

I made a slight mistake in the description.

The ignition coil (connected to the spark plug) is attached to the frame and seems to make an earth connection to the frame itself. I ran an extra cable from one of the holding screws to be an "earth point" for all my earth connection. Can't make a picture of that now, as it's under the gastank.

From this unit (besides the new extra line I made) there are two cables, a Black/yellow and a full-green. Both directly run to the CDI (using the original cable and plug).

The other 3 cables on the CDI are
: blue/yellow which comes from the engine block,
: white/black (connected to nothing)
: and a red/black, which also comes from the engine block.

A note to make here: The core red/black seems to be silvercoloured instead of cuppercolored wire, while the one from the CDI is a cupercolored cable. I connected them together now, but obviously this was not the original connection.

I am assuming that both the red/black and white/black would normally run to the "key" in the steering wheel, making the ignition circuit by connecting red/black on turning the key while breaking the white/black to earth connection, and on key-off making the white/black to earth connection while breaking the ignition circuit.

Assuming this is correct, I've connected the red/black permanently (well at-least for now while I try to make it run) while keeping the white/black away from the earth connection.

To me, it seems the connection should be correct as per the diagram and logic. Any way I can check it while kick-starting? I have a multimeter that I can use.

here are pictures of the CDI:

[img]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/71892173/Honda%20GL%20150/IMG_2344.JPG[/img]
[img]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/71892173/Honda%20GL%20150/IMG_2346.JPG[/img]
[img]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/71892173/Honda%20GL%20150/IMG_2347.JPG[/img]
[img]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/71892173/Honda%20GL%20150/IMG_2348.JPG[/img]
[img]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/71892173/Honda%20GL%20150/IMG_2349.JPG[/img]

[unitynotsocri...]

this may help,

ps ..and kill switchs from clutch levers and sidestands can get routed through the cdi kill switch .


Using a multimeter you can work out which coil /wire is the pulse trigger , coil power /headlight switch in coil etc ......
____________________
nearly a normal tax paying tosser.......with ferrileness suzi100,cg125,cb125scb100n,cb175,cd100,cj250t,kh250,c15,125 bantam,super 6,rickman gs750,xt500,250rs,dt175,lifan125,dolomite1850,metro,Morris220ld,morrisfg,leyland princess,range rover,corsa,vw camper .now struggling with legs. MORE ORDER = MORE CHAOS

[tomh]

It all sounds correctly wired then, the only thing I can think of is make sure there is a earth strap on the actual engine if you can. Next thing is to get a cheap multimeter and do a continuity test (the ones that beeps) and check all the wires are correctly terminated/soldered correctly.

That black/red wire would of originally run directly to the CDI from the engine. Also I'm sure this type of CDI won't be effected by any safety switches (clutch, side stand etc) with the black/white wire not connected to anything.

I assume you've checked for a spark against the cylinder block?

Also this wiring diagram might be of use to you:

https://www.robocog.dyndns.org/cg125/wiring/cg_ES_4_wiring.jpg

[markhanoi83]

I assume checking for the pulse would be checking for Voltage, putting one on the "pulse" wire and the other on my earth connection.

Will try out if I'm getting a spark as well, didn't try it actually....

My multimeter doesn't beep with the diod test, but it does changes number on connection (showing a 1 on no-connection), so I can (again) check all the wires. Will post the results shortly.

Thanks for all the tips until now.

[cb1rocket]

You cannot check the pulse coil (other than resistance testing) with a multimeter. You need to use an oscilloscope meter to check its functioning correctly
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Honda H100S2 Rebuild - https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=253852

[prawny1]

Sometimes the black white is wired to be earthed to kill others times it must be earthed to run depends on the bike.

Connct the black/white to the green to see if oyu get a spark.

Another thing to consider is some cdi ignition systems are designed to be run from d/c others a/c, you may well need the battery to make the bike run.
____________________
hellkat wrote:

Some people are only alive cos its against the law to kill them.

[markhanoi83]

OK guys,

thanks allot for all the advice and help.

After relentless tries of all the mentioned points, I decided to take it to a motorbike shop here in Hanoi.

Conclusion, wiring was perfect, but the engine not so much. After sticking some oil and other things to the cylinder via the spark-plug-hole and relentless kick-starting, the engine started running but couldn't hold on idle.

Kept the bike there overnight and had them check/clean out the system, to find out that the carburetor was a bit dead. Putting a new one on makes it sing good (accept for a little valve noise, but a little valve on a 150cc isn't bad as far as I know. Hearing no valve ticking is worse )

A hefty 30USD was the damage for parts and labor, but it's finally singing again.

Topic closed


PS: White/black wire connecting to earth in order to kill the system