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| Iain. |
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Iain.
Could Be A Chat Bot
Joined: 04 Dec 2014
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 Posted: 13:26 - 13 May 2015  Post subject: |
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I diddn't get a sticky last time. However, if mods want to sort something out then can be re-posted, perhaps it'd be better off in show/tell? Anyhow, heres the last update I did;
How to road register your offroader
A lot of people have asked me how I've gone about registering my CR for road use - DVLA rejected my application and sent all my paperwork back as they decided I diddn't want a Q plate...I'd assumed with a lack of dating certificate they'd simply Q plate it automaticly, it seems not. However it's given me an oppertunity to photo the paperwork - exactly what I sent in the hope it makes your life easier.
Part I - What can I register?
Lets be clear ANY full size Motocross or enduro bike can be registered provided it has (or can be made to have) a ground clearance of at least 310mm and a seat height of at least 900mm, regardless of what the dealer, Terry down the pub or anyone else has to say about it - as can anything else that you can alter to have a 4ltr fuel tank, a seat height of under 700mm, and a ground clearance of 280mm (Think pitbike, 85cc Motocrossers)
The idea with Enduro exemption, and Trials exemption from testing was to allow competition bikes to be ridden between stages, not for them to actually be used as road bikes. Such bikes would otherwise never pass an SVA test - and enforcing the law would close down a ton of offroad events causing all kinds of hassle.
| MSVA wrote: |
Trials motorcycles shall have the following characteristics:
maximum seat height of 700mm;
minimum ground clearance of 280mm; and
maximum fuel tank capacity of 4 litres
Enduro motorcycles shall have the following characteristics:
minimum seat height of 900mm; and
minimum ground clearance of 310mm.
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If you can get a Pitbike/85 up to 280mm ground clearance, keeping the seat below 700mm (which shouldn't be hard), show untampered frame/engine numbers, and prove that the fuel tank can't hold more than 4litres of fuel this guide applies. Horn and numberplate for a daylight MOT.You'd register a Pitbike as a Trials bike. Registering as a Trials bike would then give you exemption from most of the crap that makes an SVA test a pain. That said, I'd pay money to see a Pitbike with a 900mm seat height 
Based on MSVA specs listed above that's what you'll put in the reason for exemption on the V55/5 - TRIALS or ENDURO, on my photo it shows ENDURO as the CR has a seat height of more than 900mm, ground clearance of more than 310mm and has a 7.5ltr fuel tank. It can't be registered as Trials because the seat is too high, and the fuel tank is too big.
Here's the build thread; https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=281946&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
Part II - Paperwork
So, first things first. NOVA application.
The NOVA application is how you prove that the tax owed has been paid on the bike. This is totally free, you call HMRC in Dover on 01304 664171, they'll send you the application form for it. It's a very odd form as you don't fill in 90% of it, however they will reject it if you dont fill in all the boxes. You must however put a line through anything that doesn't apply, that way you've filled in all the boxes. Basicly you need to put your name/adress on it, the chassis number, the engine number, where you got it from and how much you paid for it, lines through everything else - the form doesnt look like it's applicable for anything to do with the bike, you realy only fill in the very basics. The NOVA application pictured was for a 140 pitbike.
https://i.imgur.com/h6tc85V.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/SbCnkys.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/2mVHEIs.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Of8xmE6.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/0ntoKfM.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/5oFBhFH.jpg
The form can also be downloaded here;
https://www.lambretta.co.uk/downloads/nova-form.pdf
Send it with a covering letter explaining why hardly any boxes are filled in, this is what I sent them;
https://i.imgur.com/p5tLKnm.jpg
They then send you this;
https://i.imgur.com/kmkLbo5.jpg
Very good.
Next step is to get an MOT cert. You need a *rear reflector, numberplate bracket, speedometer and road legal tyres. Dont fit lights yet - you can fail for having lights that don't work propperly, but cant fail for having none. The daylight advisory goes on your MOT and it's perfectly fine to run at night after fitting lights as it is only an advisory. Note, the MOT tester is highly likely to be very picky and flag advisorys on everything, so make sure it's all up to spec. A rear reflector isn't required unless you are MOT'ing with lights fitted, however ask your tester and see what he says as mine was certain that it had to have a rear reflector fitted. If he/she says it needs one, just fit one - no point failing over a 50p stick on reflector.
| Quote: | MOT, 1.5 under lighting.
Rear reflectors are not required to be fitted to vehicles used only during the hours of daylight, which are fitted with neither front nor rear position lamps, etc. (See 1.1.A)
Although if fitted, should be central |
MOT testers manual here to help with prep;
https://www.motinfo.gov.uk/htdocs/m1i00000001.htm
https://i.imgur.com/kus1qw4.jpg
Phone bill, internet bill, it's all good. You need to print one, virgin media's looks like this;
https://i.imgur.com/ocZj7yU.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/aMn3Nvk.jpg
You also need to scan your photocard driving licence. Both sides, in colour and attach it. I look like a gimp in mine so I'm not posting the photo.
Covering letter asking for vehicle to be Q plated. I wrote this, you might word it better;
https://i.imgur.com/5odS3Tn.jpg
Then order form V55/5 from DVLA - https://www.dft.gov.uk/dvla/onlineservices/order_forms.aspx?ext=dg
Excellent. Now, filling it in. This is what you need to do (Ignore the DVLA stamps at the bottom) - change the tax to whats appropriate for your engine size - https://www.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/175492/V149_rates_of_vehicle_tax.pdf
Page one;
https://i.imgur.com/6A8Zfdx.jpg
Page two;
https://i.imgur.com/IzHasRy.jpg
Postal orders. You need two sepearate ones - £55 one for the first registration fee, and another £17 in my case for the tax disc. It's covered by two different departments, if you send the full sum on one postal order it'll get rejected.
Then insurance. You can insure your bike on the frame number with adrian flux https://www.adrianflux.co.uk/chassis-number/
https://i.imgur.com/59q0wg0.jpg
Post the whole lot off to DVLA and wait for a logbook. Inspection may be required, if so they are checking for seat height and ground clearance, nothing more - as you've registered it enduro exempt it must have 310mm of ground clearance, and 900mm or more of seat height, however inspection is unlikely.
Send it first class recorded & keep the reciept. DVLA actually note that theres no point sending it to them as it will probbably get lost otherwise. First class signed for costs £2.
They should then send you a logbook, tax disc and a certificate that allows for a numberplate to be made. Bop it on and you're legal! 
Part III - Modifying the bike & getting an MOT
Show the tester my certificate if he says you cant test it on a chasssis number, it can be done he just has to mark it as registration mark not displayed.
The tyres must be E-marked and suitable for road use, Motocross/enduro tyres are usually marked not for highway use. Various options on ebay, or at the local tyre dealership.
Numberplate bracket is down to you - Anything that holds the plate on will do, however you will need to run a full size plate in order to be legal. This is what I did, another ebay purchase and cost about £5 from memory;
https://i.imgur.com/aeVoNVW.jpg
You must have a speedometer - however a bicycle speedometer is fine. I used one called a Manburen off ebay. It cost £3 and a few pence. You cable tie the sensor to the fork leg, and glue the magnet to the spokes.
https://i.imgur.com/sus5NeH.jpg
Something like this is ideal - it looks a little like the trailtech speedometers so your MOT tester is less likely to get funny about it.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-EVORIDER-BICYCLE-CYCLE-COMPUTER-BIKE-SPEEDO-ODOMETER-SPEEDOMETER-BACKLIGHT-/370891649914?pt=UK_SportGoods_CyclAcces_RL&hash=item565add737a
You must have a horn. Battery powered is the way to go, I used a product called "Mega Horn" which straps to the bars.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MEGA-HORN-105db-ENDURO-BIKE-MOTORCYCLE-HORN-NEW-/111263506651?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item19e7d260db
You'll need a rear reflector - can be off a kids bicycle, or most bike shops sell stick on ones for £1 a time. It must be displayed on the rear.
Part IV - Lighting
| Highway Code 113 wrote: |
You MUST
ensure all sidelights and rear registration plate lights are lit between sunset and sunrise
use headlights at night, except on a road which has lit street lighting. These roads are generally restricted to a speed limit of 30 mph (48 km/h) unless otherwise specified
use headlights when visibility is seriously reduced (see Rule 226).
Night (the hours of darkness) is defined as the period between half an hour after sunset and half an hour before sunrise).
Laws RVLR regs 3, 24, & 25, (In Scotland - RTRA 1984 sect 82 (as amended by NRSWA, para 59 of sched 8)) |
So, if you're riding with no lights get on to BBC weather and check what time the official sunrise & sunset is in order not to get in trouble. There's some sort of half hour window, but I'd not cut it that fine as the whole thing is somewhat of a grey area.
If your bike is registered enduro exempt it is not required to have indicators at all, regardless of if lights are fitted. If lights are fitted a working headlight, fitted with dip, main and sidelight must be fitted and in full working order, as must a working brake and tail light. If you do not have lights you will be given an advisory for having no head or tail lamps, as can be seen on my certificate. If you add them on later, provided you have the lighting E-marked and legal as stated above a re-test is not required and you can legally ride at night.
Most MX bikes do not have a generator output for lighting. You can either buy a wonderfully complicated and expensive stator conversion, or fit a battery in the airbox and have a limited amount of lighting.
https://www.rapidtables.com/calc/electric/Watt_to_Amp_Calculator.htm
Use this calculator, to work out how many amps is required to power the lighting you've decided on. LED bulbs draw next to nothing, my stop tail bar draws under 1w of power. My headlight is a 35w unit, so running on dip, with the taillight and brake light working all the time is going to total 36w, equating to 3A of current at 12v.
Battery capacity is measured in MAH, 1000mah means it can supply 1A for an hour. Lithium-ion battery packs can be had off ebay cheaply
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-9800mAh-Lithium-ion-Super-Rechargeable-Battery-Pack-EU-Charger-UK95-/291022940879?pt=UK_ConsumerElectronics_Batteries_SM&hash=item43c251aacf
This produces a quoted 9800mah, we'll assume as it's chinese they're bullshitting about the figures and guess around 7500mah. You cant run the pack dead flat as the lights will dim when it starts to drop, so theoreticly you'd get around 2hrs use out of one of those packs. They're small, cheap and easily mounted in the airbox.
Horn is throttle side, lights and kill on the left.
https://i.imgur.com/ydMdUTA.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/ugkP7ea.jpg
Light switch off - Brake light only
Light switch low - Sidelight, Taillight, Brake light
Light switch high - Dip beam, Taillight, Brake light
Flash button - Main beam, Taillight, Brake light - However totally independant circuit, so dip beam also remains on if was previously switched on, but flash will work on it's own.
https://i.imgur.com/LpyYGxp.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/4MgygQH.jpg
10A fuse fitted, so should pop when something shorts out.
https://i.imgur.com/0q7Dd5r.jpg
Now, why wire it like this? A bike shouldn't be wired in this way. Because it allows you to run only one bulb at a time - thus keeping the power draw on the battery at an absolute minimum. If you ride on just the 1.5w sidelight and the 1w taillight all the time, it only draws 0.2 of an amp! Your battery can power that for five hours on only one amp - you have six to play with. It allows you to use the absolute minimum of electricity apart from when you actually NEED it.
Wiring diagram;
https://i.imgur.com/Uc7otzA.jpg
Here's the stop tail bar I used;
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/140887499711?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
The headlight;
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/390728249158?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
The switchgear;
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251382414941?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
and the battery;
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171132647668?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
But the brake light switch is going to be ballache? Nah. You only need a brake light switch on the rear brake. The complex mounting for the switch etc isn't needed. You simply use a banjo bolt switch - it replaces the existing bolt holding the brake line from the rear caliper onto the rear master cylinder.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181300206427?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
It has a pressure switch built into it, two wires coming out. Very simple to fit, easy to hide on the bike and minimal effort. Bolt it on, bleed the caliper and it's done. Took 10mins.
Anyway, when all this is done and after a load of hard graft you end up with this;
https://i.imgur.com/nueoeal.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/lw4UowR.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/LFpilQV.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/QhbcXaT.jpg
HTH - was a load of fun building the bike  |
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| Fladdem |
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Fladdem
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Posted: 20:47 - 14 Nov 2015  Post subject: |
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YO! I acquired a Stomp T4 today Iain, and an RS, but that's not relevant, but I'm not sure what year it was made in and I don't even know if it has a chassis number on it, I haven't looked properly yet, just leant it up in the garden.
Do the Nova, or whoever, need to know the year, if I were to just tell them a year, would it matter, do you reckon? Not that I would do this, I want to do it all legit.  I didn't pay much, in fact, paid nothing, yet the bikes are in the garden, there's a bartering opportunity if ever I've had a proper one. So 20% of whatever I pay, I'm hoping about £300, so the VAT would only be £60 if I had to pay?
I don't know how the pit bike was road registered but that needs sorting for MOT as well. 
____________________
Current:1991 Honda MT50 (Soon to be a H100/MTX/MT5 hybrid), 1976 Honda Cub C70, 2005 Honda Varadero 125, 1993 Yamaha TTR250 Open Enduro , 2010 Road Legal Stomp YX140, 1994 Honda CRM 250 MK III, 1999 Cagiva Mito 125, 1992 Honda CB400 Super Four, Stomp T4 230, 1984 Honda H100s, 2009 Sym XS125K
Past:2003 Aprilia RS125, 1982 Kawasaki GPZ550(FREE BIKE!)
I'm having more fun than a well-oiled midget. |
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| Iain. |
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Iain.
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Posted: 15:03 - 20 Apr 2020  Post subject: |
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So, six years on.
https://i.imgur.com/0GNId3W.jpg
Pitbike can be registered as a trials bike with ease.
I thought I'd update this as I actually used it to register the pit.
The NOVA application process has gone digital, and now takes two months instead of two weeks. Same as before, fill in what you can and leave a cover note. Calling them is absolutely pointless, I think ill probbably post it next time round. It isnt located in dover anymore, its moved to Wales.
https://www.gov.uk/nova-log-in
GPS speedometers have become affordable tech. Its £20 for a gps unit that has a backlight, odometer, gps speedometer. The lot. Works great. Meilan M3, grab it off wish or whatever. No dramas at all with making up sensor brackets and pickups, save yourself a ton of headaches and buy GPS |
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| trevor saxe-coburg-gotha |
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trevor saxe-coburg-gotha
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| Gazza M |
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Gazza M
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| Iain. |
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Iain.
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| Posted: 14:40 - 21 Apr 2020 Post subject: |
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If you happen to have a 125cc engine, then the tax is £17 a year, so not at all bad! The insurance was around £200, but this was with no NCB to put on it, and my shed isnt classified as a garage which won't have helped.
Notes for YX140 engines in roadgoing bikes;
I did find that the factory Molkt carb was a bit crappy with part throttle openings, so worthwhile getting a genuine Mikuni. The 'pre jetted' mikuni carb was very lean on the needle causing 1/4 throttle misfires till the clip was set to the lowest position. The main jet is also a little bit lean so its worth getting a jet kit around the 100-120 range to have a play with.
Throw the stock coil in the bin and replace it with a Splitfire coil setup. It wont add any extra power, but it also wont cut out at the first hint of rain. The stock cap isnt waterproof weirdly enough. Make sure whoever put the bike together faced the coil connections towards the rear of the bike or they take on water very quickly and cause the bike to cut out, i had to turn mine around.
The rear crankcase breather is a nightmare and will chuck a lot of oil (around half a litre in my case) all over the rear tyre when you run the engine at high RPM for a long time. Its fine bimbling around, but when you crack on it does chuck it out! Use a 10mm hose on ebay £2 for half a metre to extend the breather into a catch can, or route it high up and put a car crankcase breather filter on the end.
The dipsticks dont read anything accurately. This is especially bad as overfilling it makes the rear breather issue a lot worse. 800ml of 10w40, dont use cheap car oil as I tried Tescos stuff as well as some old Quantum oil and got clutch slip badly. Filled it up with some Motrex oil left over from the KTM and no more clutch slips. Cheapest nastiest bike specific oil you can find.
Fit an inline fuel filter. My tank was filthy from offroad use and grubby fuel cans so fouled the carb quickly. Most are probbably going to be the same, for the sake of £1 its a no brainer, ive not had any issues with fuel flow at all.
Talons 30T rear sprocket is good for 65-70mph on the GPS with the factory front sprocket. Im fat, and it feels like the bike cant quite max out 4th on the flat so its about where it needs to be. |
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| Gazza M |
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Gazza M
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| Iain. |
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Iain.
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| wr6133 |
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wr6133
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| P. |
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P.
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| Gazza M |
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Gazza M
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| Posted: 15:41 - 24 Apr 2020 Post subject: |
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Extra high seat base it is then, crf110 based so no hope of being a trials. Sent the paperwork off to NOVA now so fingers crossed, the manufacturer of the bike was zero help at giving me any info about it so will have to be a Q plate
Incidentally, autocorrect on my last post doesn't look like it worked!
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Past: '07 YBR125, '00 GPZ500S, '99 ZRX1100, '98 CBR600 track bike, '97 ZX9R
Present: '05 R6 track bike, 140 pit bike |
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 4 years, 4 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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