Fettling a Kawasaki KMX 200

[slowlydoesit]

This isn't going to be a massively impressive rebuild thread like some of the projects in this part of the forum, so I'll keep it simple.

I have a 1989 Kawasaki KMX200 that seems to run fine but needs some work to get it through the MOT. Ultimately I don't plan to ride much offroad, but there are lots of farm tracks round here plus the bulk of my riding will be on tight, winding, bumpy and often potholed back roads, hence a trailie as opposed to a Fireblade. (Oh, yeah, and there's the small issue of budget.) I'm just going to document a bit of the work here, which is being done with the aid of a vastly more competent friend of mine. Apologies in advance for the crap camera of my cellphone. Needs must when the devil drives and all that. This is what the bike looks like now, sitting in said friend's workshop.

https://i.imgur.com/OaTPVG3.jpg

First problem, the pinhole in the petrol tank. Overall the tank seems in good condition, with no obvious patches of heavy rust or significant dents, but the pinhole is real and was weeping petrol onto the expansion chamber. Perhaps a tad hazardous and certainly unlikely to get past the MOT person.

https://i.imgur.com/j2NoQt5.jpg

To this hole I applied some Granville Petro Petro Putty. When you open the package and cut off a piece as instructed it looks pleasingly similar to a monochromatic swiss roll, grey on the outside with a white fluffy centre. I had already wiped and dried the pinhole, but a little bit of petrol was still seeping out, maybe due to capillary action? I kneaded the piece of putty until the colours blended then did my best to get it on the hole, not without difficulty as the putty was quite sticky and I struggled to control the amount I put on the tank, ending up with a big blob. Then I applied pressure for about a minute. It seemed to adhere easily and after an hour was hard and apparently well stuck. At some point I will try sanding it down. The medium-term aim is to seal the hole more permanently and my friend - who, yes, is keenly aware of the danger - thinks it can be welded. Let's see how the putty holds.

https://i.imgur.com/jHex059.jpg

Next up was the front brake caliper, which was sticking. It's a simple one-pot design. I got the caliper off without problems, then found that the caliper holder was seized on the caliper holder shafts, making it impossible to take out the brake pads, at least by hand.

https://i.imgur.com/0xiqymN.jpg

At this point my friend appeared and spoke persuasively on the need for a vice. Applying gentle but steady pressure on both sides alternately got the holder moving and the pads came out. We disassembled the rest and I cleaned it as best I could with brake parts cleaner and a toothbrush. The chrome of the piston had some damage, but some way down the body of the piston, so we thought it was still useable. The rubber boots and the seals also seemed okay. Here's a picture of it after cleaning, looking a bit better but not pristine.

https://i.imgur.com/FtfNzbB.jpg

We reassembled it, reattached the caliper to the bike and tried to bleed the system. After 15 minutes of messing around we gave up as we weren't getting any firmness from the front lever. The master cylinder seals and piston looked a bit suspect. It wasn't clear where the problem lay but I decided on a "nuke the entire site from orbit" approach: kits for both caliper and master cylinder with a HEL braided item to replace the existing hose. Those are now ordered.

After that we reattached the petrol tank and tried starting it. After a few kicks it turned over then roared to life. The exhaust is loud and doesn't sound too pleasant (for lack of a better word). It seems to be an aftermarket expansion chamber with perhaps an original exhaust? As you can see from the above photo there is a DEP aftermarket exhaust in the bin of parts I got with the bike but the previous owner advised me that it doesn't sound "as good". Maybe we'll try the DEP at a later date.

https://i.imgur.com/4FCFG1d.jpg

Next I checked the electrics, which look chaotic (see above) but seem to work alright. Headlight comes on, both full and dip, and so do the idiot lights on the dash, in comfortingly old-fashioned primary colours. I did notice a problem with the indicators. The left-hand side indicators work fine, but the right hand-side indicators went on and stayed on, without flashing. From what I understood of this useful thread, the relay is probably okay because it controls both left and right and the left side is fine. The next step was to check bulbs and wiring. I took the rear indicators home with me and whipped off the lenses only to find this on the righthand side:

https://i.imgur.com/I59XAp3.jpg

Basically the bulb (the rating of which I haven't checked) was popped in a holder of indeterminate origin, and one wire has been cable-tied to it. Let it be noticed that whoever did it looped the cable tie around twice - clearly he was a perfectionist. I don't know whether this is what is causing the indicators to not flash on the righthand side but it may be contributing.

At this point I decided that the indicator is grotty enough and a new one cheap enough that I should just replace it. I don't want to overspend on the bike, given that it's just a fun hobby for me, but I don't want to spend too many hours trying to fix things either. My time has a value and I have competing demands on that time - family, work and friends. This particular item is something I'll pay for in cash rather than paying for in hours in the workshop. While fettling the bike is educational for a mechanical noob like me and satisfying to boot, the end goal is to get riding again.

More next week, hopefully. Comments and advice always welcome.
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Kawasaki KMX200 with broken fixed powervalves and a stutter

[KLR600]

That frame looks surprisingly clean for a 1989 bike. I assume a previous owner has stripped the bike and had it sprayed/powder coated?

I do like older trailies. Maybe one day I'll get that Honda XR650R I always wanted as a teenager!
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Now: '00 Kawasaki ZRX1100R - Past: '84 Yamaha DT125, '89 Kawasaki KLR600, '97 Yamaha XJ600N
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[slowlydoesit]

[Nexus Icon]

What sort of person replaces all of the corroded fasteners yet makes an electrical contact with a cable tie?
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Greetings from Shitsville!

[slowlydoesit]

[slowlydoesit]

Various KMX 200 parts have arrived.
HEL braided hose on the left, with new banjo bolts and washers.
Master cylinder rebuild kit in the middle.
Front caliper replacement piston and seals on the right.
Indicator chilling out behind. Kyoto brake pads lurking out of shot.
Also have a new kickstart as the old one is a bit wobbly.

Now it's just a matter of fitting them correctly.

https://i.imgur.com/12Mxonq.jpg
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Kawasaki KMX200 with broken fixed powervalves and a stutter

[SQL]

Is that running on comma mineral oil?

[slowlydoesit]

[slowlydoesit]

[SQL]

Comma mineral oil is green and shit was gonna suggest changing it

[slowlydoesit]

Supplier on holiday... No chance of getting anything done over weekend...

https://i.imgur.com/F2QcvJM.jpg
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Kawasaki KMX200 with broken fixed powervalves and a stutter

[slowlydoesit]

[stevo as b4]

The 200's have a 10mm bigger front disc at 240mm than the 125's. I did always think the Caliper was the same though, and it's just spaced out further by the 38mm forks. Maybe the Caliper has a bigger piston though?

I've never bothered to strip and compare my 125 and 200cc caliper's before, but I could do tonight as both are off the bikes currently.

You are correct that the late 2000> KMX125's used a different front caliper and a different pad, as well as changing from organic to sintered compound pads too. I assume it was to improve the front brake performance and not because the Old style caliper was discontinued, but who knows?

[slowlydoesit]

[slowlydoesit]

Looking good - the replacement and the old piston seem identical. Hard to tell with the photo underexposed like this but they are very close indeed. Will fit it and see tomorrow.

https://i.imgur.com/3YkdYEo.jpg
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Kawasaki KMX200 with broken fixed powervalves and a stutter

[dangerousdave]

Nice, reminds me I need to get hold of a new piston for my bike.
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1988 Kawasaki KMX 200

Previous: Yamaha YZF1000, ZZR600, KMX200, DT50, KX80, CG125, PF50

[slowlydoesit]

[bladerunner]

Bleed the mc first by cracking the banjo bolt Untill you get the air out from that point of the system....if that's not working then unholy the mc so the brake line is straight and you can purge the airlock...then start on the caliper .how much was the piston and seal as I've got a kdx200 SR which has a rusty blob where a brake piston should be!
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Current bikes...cbr929, KDX200's, Rd125lc mk2, RGV250's

[bladerunner]

Bleed the mc first by cracking the banjo bolt Untill you get the air out from that point of the system....if that's not working then unholy the mc so the brake line is straight and you can purge the airlock...then start on the caliper .how much was the piston and seal as I've got a kdx200 SR which has a rusty blob where a brake piston should be!
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Current bikes...cbr929, KDX200's, Rd125lc mk2, RGV250's

[steady eddie]

How much brake fluid have you poured in? Sometimes it can take a 500ml bottle before you start getting any lever if you've had it apart.

You sure ya bleeding it right ?
https://www.dirt-bike-secrets.com/motorcycle-brakes.html
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Fz50>Ts185>Rd125Lc>Cb250n Superdream "Deluxe" (!)>Kmx200>Tdr250>Yzf600 Thundercat>
Current bikes: 1997 Fireblade RRV & 1989 KMX200

[dangerousdave]

What I find works really well when bleeding brakes is to attach a plastic tube/ fuel line to the bleed nipple, and put the other end into a container part filled with out. The tube/ fuel line needs to be transparent, so the air bubbles can be seen.

Then the brake lever can be pumped, while simultaneously opening up then closing the brake nipple, allowing the fluid to flow through into the container, taking any air bubbles with it

There will be plenty of air bubbles at first on a rebuilt system
As the fluid is pumped through, the bubbles should get smaller/ less frequent. If this is not the case then suspect an air leak on the system.

Once the fluid is coming through clear of any bubbles, the tighten the brake bleed nipple and remove the pipe. The brake lever should now be firm, and should stop before it reaches the bar. If this is not the case then repeat until the fluid is clear of air bubbles.

If the fluid will not clear of air bubbles, then suspect an air leak. Check all bolts. If all tight then air is entering either through the master cylinder (rebuild kit £20, strip and reassemble) or something is amiss with the piston seals (unlikely as just rebuilt)

Hope this helps?
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1988 Kawasaki KMX 200

Previous: Yamaha YZF1000, ZZR600, KMX200, DT50, KX80, CG125, PF50

[slowlydoesit]

[dangerousdave]

[dangerousdave]

[slowlydoesit]