Kawasaki ER5 project bike

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Last week I took the ER for it's MOT but due to the fucking oil leak it failed as it's suddenly got worse from me trying to tighten up the clutch casing thus making me believe more that it may be coming from there, at this present moment, I've no fucking clue.

Since my last written update I stated that I'd write up on the fuel tap repair but I'll have to use the parts list pics to show you how I did it etc so I'll do it soon.

I changed the headstock bearings on the bike and fuck me what a PITA!!! Doing this on a faired bike is a lot easier let me tell you! Will do a write up on that when I have time. Shocks are here, they're good, plastics turned up for the rear cowl, good too, fork seals, good, front wheel bearings are here as they're fucked, and i have a clutch gasket, just need some instant gasket for 2 spots per manual stating such.

Just waiting on the below to put a few things right.

To do list
Power wash
Fit the new speedo drive (thanks PhilDawson8270)
Ring about a rear tyre & replace
Fix the oil leak - FAILED MOT
Fit exhaust hanger
Replace rethals (bent)
Fit/Remove mirrors
Replace Lockset (faulty Ignition)
Replace clutch switch (faulty)
Fix/Replace Fuel tap
Fit new headstock bearings
General service


Service rear brake (won't return and pulsing)
Service front brake
Replace chain
Adjust clutch cable freeplay
Clean and lube all moving parts (cables, pegs, throttle etc)
Synchronize the Carbs
Service the engine (oil & filter + air filter thanks again PhilDawson8270)
Service forks (going over bumps, breaks wrists)
Replace Shocks {ON THE WAY}

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Haz ER-5, innit!

[Jayy]

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I promised some pics about 2 weeks ago, since then Uni work has taken over and left me bikeless not to mention it won't pass an MOT with the oil leak. So the deal with the petrol tap which was leaking was a simple affair so I'll start with that.

Basically who ever repaired it before me didn't notice the leak wasn't coming from the diaphragm at all, but instead was the O-ring pictured here.
https://designingben.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/fuel-tap-fix.jpg

The diaphragm (pictured here in red) was coated in instant gasket or silicone sealant, and very sloppy too, so it actually caused more of an issue than a fix. The Fuel tap comes apart really easily but the hard part is not getting pissed on by the tank full of fuel, you can turn the tap to "ON" which then uses the port connected to the diaphragm but I undid the main pipe by accident and scrambled to find the nearest container possible. If I was you I'd buy one of these to stop the flow of petrol, you don't need to remove the tap body if it leaks from the tap itself (thing you turn) you just unscrew the 2 cross heads and pull it out, replace the O-ring (pictured circled in Cyan) and jobs done.

So to recap:

1. Undo the 2 10mm bolts
2. Clamp the fuel line/s
3. Remove the 2 cross head screws on the face
4. Pull out tap
5. Replace O-Ring with a bigger one or double up like I did
6. Reverse to reassemble

A WORD OF WARNING: These are utter shit! The only part that worked for me was the O-ring and every other part was incompatible.

To do list
Fix the oil leak - Awaiting gaskets
Replace rethals (bent) {£30}
Fit/Remove mirrors
Replace Lockset (faulty Ignition)
Replace clutch switch (faulty){£8}
General service


Clean and lube all moving parts (cables, pegs, throttle etc)
Synchronize the Carbs
Service the engine {Waiting for water pump seals}
Service forks (going over bumps, breaks wrists)
Replace Shocks {here}

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Haz ER-5, innit!

[lihp]

That would be slam, as you can tell, I never really fixed much on it

[TUG]

Headstock bearing time!
After completing a few odd jobs on the bike the headstock bearings turned up and it was time to sort them out, well, duh right?
Anyway, I rolled the bike out the garage as the weather was good and I wanted better lighting to see what I was doing however, I was met with this...
https://designingben.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/20140428_094959.jpg
Leading to...
https://designingben.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/20140428_095007.jpg

It's pissing me off more than you can believe this oil leak. Anyway, as you can tell from those lovely images it was nice and bright, warm too! I got the jack out the garage and my tools and started to undo bolts that later wouldn't be wise to crack when the bike was lifted. So spindle clamp on the lower fork leg, brake bolts, spindle nut, yoke nuts, steering stem nut etc, you get the picture, just basically all the hard bolts to get with a bike balancing.

Once done, I took off the bars and other doo-dads like the throttle assembly and brake perch. Make sure you unclip your brake light sensor/switch, can be a pain if you forget. I marked the clamp position with masking tape just for ease really.
https://designingben.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/20140428_100148.jpg

Next up was the brake line clamps and the actual brake itself. Take note of the routing as I fell foul of this when rebuilding the front end later on.
https://designingben.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/20140428_100553.jpg

Next up was removing the headlight and its bowl to get at the wiring to move it out the way as the fork yoke bolts are hidden back there. You have to unscrew the assembley from the bowl via 2 cross heads then undo the bolts with the nut behind the headlight, otherwise it will just spin and you won't get far.
https://designingben.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/20140428_101000.jpg

Time to undo the speedo to remove the clocks and so on.
https://designingben.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/20140428_101743.jpg

Undoing all the clamps holding the brake line in place etc.
https://designingben.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/20140428_102044.jpg

So that I can do this.
https://designingben.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/20140428_102301.jpg

Jacked the bike up to get the front wheel out and undo the mudguard, I was actually pretty scared that they would just get chewed up given the state of the rest of the bike. Thankfully after a good whack with my truck punches and mallet they came out with no issue.
https://designingben.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/20140428_104914.jpg

Quick tip!: Squirt WD-40 around where the clamp holds the fork leg, turn it a little and it will lube itself up helping you out greatly, which in turn will leave you with this.
https://designingben.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/20140428_110123.jpg

Ok so here is the deal with bearings, the best way to remove them is tap it out in a circular motion, it will take you some time but it won't result in damaging the metal around it. As mentioned previously, I own These and honestly, they are life savers. You can lube up the frame neck to aid you but tbh they're so tight just tapping with the punches is enough. JUST BE PATIENT.
https://designingben.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/20140428_113819.jpg

I think they where a bit FUBAR to be honest, the pictures don't show it but the surfaces had been pretty beat up, the lube had all dried up too so I replaced them with these, a set of taper bearings.
https://designingben.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/20140428_113159.jpg

The top bearing was pretty easy to put in place, you can use the old bearing races to GENTLY tap in the new bearing races, DON'T HIT THE NEW BEARING FACES OR USE THE BEARINGS THEMSELVES TO HIT THE NEW RACES INTO PLACE.
https://designingben.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/20140428_115412.jpg

Top done, I tap the lower ones in but the ER5 has a pretty big recess, I thought I'd been given the wrong bearings at first but I hadn't was just me herp derping. You can actually see it here.
https://designingben.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/20140428_115419.jpg

I struggled a bit with the lower yoke bearing and race not going down enough on the neck to let me get the nut on the stem, no problem though, you just need to use the old race upside down so the thin part hits the race and not your bearing and because your hitting your race, eventually it will sit right, but again be patient with it, don't just smack the shit out of it. Tap in a circular motion again and it will be reet.
https://designingben.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/20140428_115429.jpg

If you've done it right then you should be able to slide it up and screw the notched ring onto the stem, the correct way to tighten up said ring is to hand tighten it then tap it or use a c-ring spanner to turn it another 1/4 turn then back it off ever so slightly. If you read your bike's workshop manual it will give you the correct way to do it. When I was younger, I though you just clamped that shit down but nope Doesn't work like that.

Given your lockstops aren't damaged you can turn both clamps to the side and tighten everything up but you can always leave it till last and put the forks, mudguard, and wheel back on to ensure the wheel will be true. If you have difficulties there might be a chance that your yoke is bent making your steering turn on its own. What I mean by this, the bars pulling to one side as you set off, they're correcting themselves you see. Anyway, rebuild and be merry, Good job mate!
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Haz ER-5, innit!

[_Iain_]

I have 3 ER-5's being broken up for parts at the moment. Inbox me if you're after anything! One got rear ended, one had an engine knock & the others only about 50% there, however is red.

Keep the drum setup - our ER-5 loaners have had the skim done once. Most of them are on 60-70k so the one skim is likely to outlast the rest of the bike
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Please be aware that the above post may be full of complete nonsense.
Riding: '07 KTM Duke II, Baotian BT49QT-20 Driving: '88 Volvo 340

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[_Iain_]

£50-80 for a wheel, caliper, brake disc, master cylinder, brake line, pads, fluid & the bracketry to be welded to the swinger/support the m/c? Are you sure

Unsure what we paid but I cant help thinking £20-30 as a local guy did em, however https://www.srmclassicbikes.com/wheels/brakes - are quoting £47.84
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Please be aware that the above post may be full of complete nonsense.
Riding: '07 KTM Duke II, Baotian BT49QT-20 Driving: '88 Volvo 340

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[mintex]

Someone on the er5 forum said they used the er's brake pedal.
ive not looked at converting mine yet as i have a garage to build, an aprilia to put back together and a few other things but i will get around to it as my rear brake proper oval and i dont think will pass the mot again lol

[TUG]

[TUG]

Well today has been utter shit but I had a little success in the way of recieving the gaskets to add to my pile of parts!

https://designingben.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/parts-18-05-2014.jpg

All I need to do now is find time to fit them, probably next week... but more than likely won't get to. I've got myself the complete rear brake system from a GPZ500 and I have a rear wheel with disc on hold as he searches for the spacer that sits between the caliper bracket and the wheel itself.
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Haz ER-5, innit!

[TUG]

Today was a good day!
Got a rear wheel from a GPZ500 including the disc, spacer and caliper mount for £28 and my rear brake set up (caliper, bracket, line, pedal, res, m/c) I bought for £16 is on it's way so that's £44 excluding pads and welding to the rear of the footrest mount and a slide on the swing arm.
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Haz ER-5, innit!

[mintex]

looking forward the the rear bake getting fitted, i really need to get the bits together and get mine sorted to

[TUG]

[mintex]

Ive ordered the rear brake set up so will get mine sorted soon

[TheManWithThe...]

I've got an oil leak in exactly the same place on my er, but i've pretty much ignored it until recently (about 2 years) as it's never been picked up on the MOT

I'll be keeping a watch over this to see if you find the source so i can draw inspiration from/copy your fix
Clutch has been rebuilt, so i've ruled that source out, so i reckon it's either the seal on the water pump or the oil pressure testing bolt thingymeyjig
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MBK Nitro 50, Sold. Kawasaki ER-5, Honda ST1100
"Anyone can jump a motorcycle! The trouble begins when you try to land it..."

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A lot has gone on recently such as losing my job which I loved and was praised for working hard but let go anyway and loads of college/uni work but this project will continue.

I got my wheel and stuff, it came looking like utter crap with atleast 10mm of thick hard dirt all over it, I spent a good hour cleaning it up and will show you the process on how to beat rounding off disc bolts.

My fuel tap has been replaced, I think my fix sorted out the leak through the tap's face but not the leak internally due to the penny gasket not being thick enough.

The faces for all the gaskets have been cleaned up, I just need to put fluids into the engine and check for more leaks. The bike was bone dry of coolant so I suspect there may be another leak else where.

More to come.
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Haz ER-5, innit!

[TUG]

I haven't given up on this just yet, but I don't have any funds until September, basically I repaired the water pump seals and gaskets, clutch gasket too while searching for the source of the oil leak which wasn't actually a leak at all really. In the end it turned out that the bike was bone dry of coolant and in fact the oil was coming out of the drain hole in the water pump housing as the lack of coolant caused the oil seal to boil. I had to drain the oil out due to the clutch casing being off so went ahead with a service without thinking about other damage that might of been caused by the overheating of the engine, which is probably melted o rings which seal the liners, warped cylinder head and failed head gasket, I won't know until I pull the engine out the frame and take the head off, but I've been busy with a few other things. I know something is wrong because my fresh oil turned into lovely cream good enough for a decent brew!

Anyway, The plan is to strip my current engine and see what is what, but I need a hydraulic press to get the liners out, which I know of two in separate locations nearby so I'm not really worried.

[Pol Anorl]