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Checking Wheels after a Bash

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gavcarter
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Joined: 28 Mar 2009
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PostPosted: 19:12 - 30 Jun 2014    Post subject: Checking Wheels after a Bash Reply with quote

Okay so you've wheelied wrong, hit something or got a 2nd hand wheel off ebay - either way you want to know if its straight.

All you need for this is a magnetic dial indicator, the correct axle, and either a strong vice or a decent sized sheet of wood....

Take the axle and either drill a hole in a sheet of wood that is a nice tight fit ( so the axle will stand up straight by itself ) or grasp it in a vice, upright. I went for the vice


Slide wheel over the axle, ( needs bearings in! ) and put the indicator base onto the remainder of the axle, with bit of jigging and poking you can get the indicator onto the rim of the wheel, you should take your measurements as close to 90 degrees as possible to avoid inaccuracy.....


https://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/w375/gavcarter12/IMG_20140630_114928_zps47714028.jpg

Zero the dial and draw a line down the tire in marker and slowly turn the wheel and keep an eye on the indicator, it will flick and flutter over corrosion and dirt or bubble paint, so try and get the rim nice an clean. You should go once round looking for the HIGHEST reading, and once round looking for the LOWEST.

The difference is the AXIAL runout.


https://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/w375/gavcarter12/IMG_20140630_114917_zpsa7db6c0c.jpg

With a bit more jigging and poking you can get the dial indicator ( although I couldn't get mine quite at 90 degrees because it hit the spokes) onto the inside of the wheel and repeat the above noting highest and lowest reading.

https://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/w375/gavcarter12/IMG_20140630_115012_zpscb587c48.jpg

the difference here is the RADIAL run-out

Hope this is of help to some, and was cool little mini project for me today, along with the forks whilst waiting in for deliveries Wink
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Teflon-Mike
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Joined: 01 Jun 2010
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PostPosted: 21:52 - 30 Jun 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Two questions...
1/ how much run-out is too much
2/ what do you do about it if you have it?
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kramdra
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Joined: 28 Oct 2010
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PostPosted: 23:49 - 30 Jun 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

A short post from Tef Shocked Laughing

Also good for checking brake discs for warp. Ive got a couple of indicators, but no mount Sad


I assume the locations you have measured are not machined surfaces so will have quite a large variation in metal thickness, plus paint (which is very thick)/corrosion etc.. Best place to check is perhaps the tyre bead? I assume that would be machined after casting, although it would also be painted.
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gavcarter
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PostPosted: 08:42 - 01 Jul 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Teflon-Mike wrote:
Two questions...
1/ how much run-out is too much
2/ what do you do about it if you have it?


For my bike, 2mm radial or 2mm axial was the service limit.
You can have a wheel straightened for a few ££, or you can try your self if its a spoked rim by reading up on respoking a wheel
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gavcarter
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PostPosted: 08:54 - 01 Jul 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

kramdra wrote:
A short post from Tef Shocked Laughing

Also good for checking brake discs for warp. Ive got a couple of indicators, but no mount Sad


I assume the locations you have measured are not machined surfaces so will have quite a large variation in metal thickness, plus paint (which is very thick)/corrosion etc.. Best place to check is perhaps the tyre bead? I assume that would be machined after casting, although it would also be painted.


This will only alter readings by a minimum amount, the honda workshop manual says to measure in those places. Thats also where I got the specs for acceptable run-out.
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