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Lightweight (Airportable) Landrover rebuild.

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sickpup
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PostPosted: 02:54 - 28 Sep 2014    Post subject: Lightweight (Airportable) Landrover rebuild. Reply with quote

I've had owned this for some 21 years or so, not really sure how long and it needs a serious amount of work but is in good enough condition that it warrants the work.

I guess the first step is to show some pictures of it, if you know it and its location don't scream it out, I already know where it is.

Left side. Vandalised by scrotes.

https://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/DSCF0626.jpg

Front view.

https://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/DSCF0628.jpg

Right side.

https://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/DSCF0623.jpg

So straight off the obvious things that need doing are a new rear cross member, its rotting out and bent.

https://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/DSCF0632.jpg

https://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/DSCF0631.jpg

https://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/DSCF0627.jpg

It isn't bad enough to need immediate replacement but as I don't yet have a license I have time to waste rebuilding it.

The front under wing splash guards will need cutting off and replacing as they are in pretty bad condition. Might also need to weld in new footwells but will see as things come apart.

https://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/DSCF0625.jpg

https://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/DSCF0624.jpg

It's going to need a lot of welding work to the front bulkhead as that corrodes badly on these.

https://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/DSCF0634.jpg

https://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/DSCF0633.jpg

https://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/DSCF0636.jpg

https://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/DSCF0635.jpg

First things to do are a partial stripdown. The vent panel, the part between the bulkhead and windscreen needs to come off and be repaired. I'm thinking about hot zinc spray on it as well as various other parts to stop future corrosion but I have to see how much this is going to cost me.

The underwing splash guards will need cutting off with a disc cutter and then I can look closely at the footwells. I also need to look at replacing the lower hinge holder on the right hand side of the bulkhead as it has a hole, may end up doing both sides in galvinised as they are cheap enough.

I'll update this as I take it apart and get a full list of what needs doing.
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bamt
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PostPosted: 09:48 - 28 Sep 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks like a fair amount of work, but I'm looking forward to seeing how you progress. Good luck with it.

I've had a bit of a yearning to get one myself. When I was learning to drive, my dad had a Series 3 LWB, my mum (being all ladylike) had a lightweight which I used to drive around. One of the fun aspects was that the reverse gate was badly worn (so you didn't push hard to go into reverse, just go a bit further over than 1st) and the whole gear stick was sloppy anyway. So, imaging a rough looking old Landy with L plates in front of your nice shiny car sitting at the traffic lights. The lights go green, the Landy goes into reverse...

I never actually hit anything, and learnt to go neutral-2nd-first in order to be sure I was actually in the right gear before starting off. Fantastic fun to drive in though, especially during winter (suitably warmly dressed) around the pennines where I grew up.

Now my son is driving, he fancies one.
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 20:50 - 28 Sep 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Time for a little history on the puddlejumper.

It was built in November 1974 as this letter from Landrover shows.

https://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/LandRoverLetter2.jpg

Complete with factory microfiche.

https://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/LandRoverDaybook.jpg

The Museum of Army Transport found these records on its use.

https://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/MoAT2.jpg

https://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/Keycard.jpg

So it was hardly used at all while in service and is one of only two lightweights known to have served on ships and to have the livery that it has.
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BravoCharlie
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PostPosted: 21:23 - 28 Sep 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

watching with interest. bloody scrotes who vandalised it Evil or Very Mad

what's the overall plan? planning on a respray to the same colour or something else?
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Furrybiker
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PostPosted: 21:30 - 28 Sep 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Always fancied one, I have a 67 IIA SWB Softtop petrol. Had it since 1990, couldn't part with it, had it longer than the wife!
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 22:00 - 28 Sep 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

BravoCharlie wrote:
what's the overall plan? planning on a respray to the same colour or something else?


Respray is secondary to sorting out the mechanicals. I'm more interested in making it useable so sort the mechanicals and then maybe a high ratio transfer box and possibly even an LPG conversion. I also need to get a driving license as I have no B category, only the rare and strange B1 light car category.
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Ichy
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PostPosted: 22:11 - 28 Sep 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice.
I've owned 3 lightweights and a few series 2a station wagons. I've tended to go for newer versions over the last few years but I'm currently considering a hybrid 1a with a Tdi front end. These things will last forever with a bit of maintenance.
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 18:50 - 29 Sep 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Had the windscreen and vent panel off today. The vent panels always rot, are hard to get and cost £350+ so was hoping this would be repairable.

https://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/DSCF0645.jpg

https://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/DSCF0644.jpg

As you can see far from perfect but luckily repairable so this will be going off to my Blacksmith fabricator mate for a piece of 1.5mm steel sheet to be welded onto the bottom.

Here it is after cleaning off with the grinder and adding Krust to stop the corrosion.

https://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/DSCF0646.jpg

The Windscreen can pretty much be ignored as its galvanised so the next thing to look at is the top of the bulkhead. This is made of folded 1.5mm steel.

https://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/DSCF0642.jpg

https://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/DSCF0639.jpg

https://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/DSCF0640.jpg

As you can see theres a lot of corrosion and a hole but as this is only 1.5mm sheet it can simply be cut out and a new section welded in.

Here it is with the Krust applied.

https://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/DSCF0643.jpg

Thats all for today, tomorrow red oxide paint for various parts.


Last edited by sickpup on 20:23 - 29 Sep 2014; edited 1 time in total
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Tamsin
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PostPosted: 19:15 - 29 Sep 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cool project for sure! I've seen them in far worse states too
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Nisp
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PostPosted: 22:19 - 29 Sep 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

love a good land rover restoration. if it was mine i would leave it in military trim because...... thats how it was made Smile
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bikertomm
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PostPosted: 22:26 - 29 Sep 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

You're a brave man sickpup. Best of luck. Thumbs Up
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Ste
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PostPosted: 22:29 - 29 Sep 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cool thread, am watching and waiting with interest. Mr. Green
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groovylee
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PostPosted: 07:54 - 30 Sep 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

looks awesome mate, good luck with it. will be watching with interest Thumbs Up
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nowhere.elysium
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PostPosted: 08:12 - 30 Sep 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks fun. Gizzashout if you want an extra pair of hands.
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map
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PostPosted: 09:09 - 30 Sep 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good work, looking forward to seeing it at the end.

One thing about Krust is I've always found it needs coating. Tried just leaving and rust is visible after a short while. Coated with primer and a dash of paint and looked good a while longer.

Unless they've changed the formula and can now leave?
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Nexus Icon
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PostPosted: 13:44 - 30 Sep 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've never seen someone restore a vehicle that close to the road. Don't you worry that pieces will disappear during the night?

Interesting thread, btw. Looking forward to it progressing.
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 15:42 - 30 Sep 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

nowhere.elysium wrote:
Looks fun. Gizzashout if you want an extra pair of hands.


I'm sorry, you thought you have a choice in this? Laughing

Back to the toy.

The Krust treatment has done its job and hardened.

https://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/DSCF0647.jpg

So time to add some red oxide primer to stop future corrosion.

https://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/DSCF0650.jpg

As you can see the surface is very pitted and uneven so next week I have some 80 grit flap wheels turning up with I will use to level the surface a bit. It won't ever be perfect without welding in a new piece but it will be acceptable and hidden away. The red oxide will clog the flap wheel to a degree but it will also act as a guide to what I have done, the high points will be bare metal and the low points red.

Some other bits of the bulkhead krusted and painted in red oxide.

https://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/DSCF0649.jpg

https://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/DSCF0651.jpg

Thought it would be a good idea to take a looks at the brakes so rear right wheel off and try and remove a drum, no chance.
Discovered the shoes wouldn't release the drum so had a cigarette, stood back and thought about it. Worked out that the Master cylinder is seized solid so the shoes won't release. I removed the brake line and had high pressure brake fluid go everywhere and the shoes release so that proved that idea correct.
I removed the drum and discovered the slave cylinder is seized on one side and has been leaking fluid, thats the yellow crumbs in the picture below.

https://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/DSCF0654.jpg

Also the top spring had snapped off the shoe. So this means I now need new slave cylinders all round as well as a new master cylinder, I suspect the servo needs replacing as well. Luckily as this is a Landrover it will only cost about £150 for all of that.

Looking in the drum there was a red scaly deposit which I soaked in brake cleaner then removed with an angle grinder paint pad by hand so at least the drum is fine.

https://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/DSCF0652.jpg

https://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/DSCF0653.jpg

Nexus Icon wrote:
I've never seen someone restore a vehicle that close to the road. Don't you worry that pieces will disappear during the night?

Interesting thread, btw. Looking forward to it progressing.


Not overly worried. Thing is this vehicle is very well known and people want to see it run so are less likely to damage/steal it.
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 16:29 - 30 Sep 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Those slave cyls say 'Girling' on them. DONT chuck'em!
If were me, I wouldn't bother buying replacement cyls; chances are you'll end up with Brit-Part pattern replacements, which are notorious.
BUT, for only a few pence, you can still get the Girling overhaul kits, ad they will usually clean up and rebuild 'better' than pattern replacements for the sake of a little time faffing.

Do you have the green bible SIII Repair Overhaul Manual and the Military Air-Portable supplement? If not I believe John Craddocks has reprints of both.

On the notion of your high-ratio X-Fer box; Conversion was done by Turners I think; basically they machine the drop cogs in the X-Fer and turn them upside down inverting the ratio's.. Basically it gives you 30% taller hi-ratio, and most opinion is that it is TOO high, it makes 1st almost as tall as 2nd without up gear. It's best suited to low reving diesel conversions, that have the low down grunt to pull the gear, but not the revs to make the speed, like the old Commer four-pot oil burners that used to get chucked these things in the 80's & 90's. You also loose the PTO port & ability to add an O-D or winch or anything. Plus pulling that box is a bastard!

The 'Cheap' alternative to a Hi-Rat X-Fer is to use 'Coiler' diffs. (90/110, Disco or Range-Rover) These were expensive & hard to obtain in years past, but now there's so many rotted out Disco's littering the streets, cheap ad easy. 3.5:a crown set rather than 4.7:1 they give a 25% increase in overall ratio, but on all ranges. It's not quite so tall, but has advantage it's not as expensive or hard to do, they drop straight into Rover Axles, and doesn't make pulling away quite so judery.

BUT, my advice would be to leave it stock; particularly if you are going gas. Power loss from gas isn't that significant, but you do loose throttle response, so low speed and round town driving with tall cogs could be an even bigger ball-ache than these things already are.

Real solution is an Over-Drive, and they are 'good'... another stem in the forest of levers and something else to fiddle-with on the move! Loads of fun n the (masocistic) Landy spirit.

HOWEVER.. while you are down there looking at the axles, and before spendig much more money on anything like brakes... there lies the other lightweight anomoly to the narrowed series bulkhead you are salvaging... your axle tubes are likewise narrowed and WELDED. Series axles have stub-axles bolted on the ends for the wheel bearings (would recomend you recondition while you are the vacinity, esp if car stood so long) yours are welded on; as is the swivel housing on the front axle, with the chrome ball, notorious for pitting and flaking like a spherical motorbike stanchion.

Common and 'Easy' salvage for an old lightweight with knackered axles is to simply fit Stock SIII axles, improves track width and makes serviceability easier, BUT will spoil the originality of your Landy if it has such great providence.

Bulkhead as you have discovered is tin almost any mig-monkey might salvage with tin-snips and time.... but the axles are another matter, and could be the difference between a viable resto or not.
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chris-red
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PostPosted: 17:00 - 30 Sep 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

No way that weighs 1/2 a tonne That's under half my fiesta!
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Copycat73
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PostPosted: 17:35 - 30 Sep 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

chris-red wrote:
No way that weighs 1/2 a tonne That's under half my fiesta!


I think you`ll find that figure refers to the pay load rather than the un-laden weight.
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nowhere.elysium
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PostPosted: 17:49 - 30 Sep 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

sickpup wrote:
nowhere.elysium wrote:
Looks fun. Gizzashout if you want an extra pair of hands.

I'm sorry, you thought you have a choice in this? Laughing
I was only trying to give you the graceful alternative to flat out-demands, pup Laughing My mate Bob has also got a full set of manuals which will most likely cover this model, as well as many years' experience working on these, so I'm sure we can dragoon him into it as well, if you like.

Fridays OK by you? I'm free all day this Friday, although it'll only be half-days from next week onwards, since my course starts then.
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chris-red
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PostPosted: 17:50 - 30 Sep 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Copycat73 wrote:
chris-red wrote:
No way that weighs 1/2 a tonne That's under half my fiesta!


I think you`ll find that figure refers to the pay load rather than the un-laden weight.

That makes more sense Laughing
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 18:36 - 30 Sep 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

In reply to Mike

First the Axles.
The rear axle is a standard pre-rationalisation Lightweight axle. This has the reinforced one ton casing and the only internal difference it the half shaft and how it secures to the hub, mine have been converted to standard half shafts.
The front is a standard 88 axle the only difference being the stubs. The chrome balls are not welded to the axle, that was on the 101 only. My stubs have been converted to standard 88 stubs.
Both points concerning the front and rear axles are obvious by the pictures, the cones on the rear axle and the massive Superwinch free wheeling hubs on the front give it away.

Also there is no difference in track width between 88/109 and lightweight axles.

Yes it would be nice to keep the Girling parts but its not yet known if they are rebuildable and the parts available since partco went into receivership, as you rightly point out most spares are now Britpart.

Transfer box.
Yes the transfer box is a very high ratio but it means on 6.50's the speedo will read correct. Using 4.7 diffs mean you are always in a higher ratio than the 3.5's whereas with a HR transfer low ratio is still the same and it is easy to pull away in low and then shift into high.

As to an overdrive I already have one but these are inherently weak so can only be used in 3rd and 4th.
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 18:42 - 30 Sep 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

nowhere.elysium wrote:
Fridays OK by you? I'm free all day this Friday, although it'll only be half-days from next week onwards, since my course starts then.


Not got Fridays off for another 2 weeks.

You want to try it you have to help repair it. Wink
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nowhere.elysium
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PostPosted: 18:43 - 30 Sep 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

sickpup wrote:
Not got Fridays off for another 2 weeks.

You want to try it you have to help repair it. Wink
Weekends anytime soon?
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