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Lightweight (Airportable) Landrover rebuild.

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sickpup
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Joined: 21 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 19:55 - 30 Nov 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not got much time at the moment due to work, bad weather and other stuff so few updates.

Had a new brake servo delivered at the beginning of the month and just got around to fitting it. Unusually it is a mix of metric and imperial fittings, the front studs are imperial and the rear metric.

https://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/DSCF1137.jpg

The hole in the rod to the rear was also only 9mm whereas it needed to be 10mm so ordered a new set of Cobalt drill bits and drilled it out to the correct size, this is the joy of pattern parts.

https://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/DSCF1139.jpg

This was drilled accurately as any play between the rod eye and the clevis pin would translate to sloppiness in the brakes operation.

I also refitted the old pressure switch which will get replaced in time.

As the studs in the brake servo weren't perfectly parallel I had to drill out the four stud holes in the brake tower to 9mm to fit it.

https://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/DSCF0668.jpg

Once all fitted it looks like this...

https://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/DSCF1141.jpg

will replace with in focus picture tomorrow.

Now I need a new master cylinder which is becoming a problem. I can get a bog standard pattern one for £40 but I want a TRW one which is the latest trading name of Lucas Girling but I am struggling to find someone who can supply one.


Last edited by sickpup on 23:16 - 01 Jan 2015; edited 1 time in total
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LongJohn22
Trackday Trickster



Joined: 16 Jul 2010
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PostPosted: 21:35 - 30 Nov 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have a look in here,
https://www.trwaftermarket.com/en/catalogue/
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 23:44 - 30 Nov 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for that, although no one wants to give me the part no. that has given me it and the MC can be found on Amazon and Ebay.

It's a PMH200 (put that there to remind me) with a retail of £275 but available for £150.


Last edited by sickpup on 15:26 - 01 Dec 2014; edited 1 time in total
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andyscooter
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PostPosted: 09:37 - 01 Dec 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

not a light weight


but my mate who had the old 1966 109 ex army one

https://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb129/andyscooters/bcfrandoms004_zpsda29e678.jpg


well he sold that as it was costing too much to run

he now has a b reg land rover 90 but it has a discovery diesel engine and gearbox in
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LongJohn22
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PostPosted: 00:52 - 03 Dec 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

andyscooter wrote:
not a light weight


but my mate who had the old 1966 109 ex army one

https://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb129/andyscooters/bcfrandoms004_zpsda29e678.jpg


well he sold that as it was costing too much to run

he now has a b reg land rover 90 but it has a discovery diesel engine and gearbox in

I seem to remember the LWB versions had a horrendous turning cicle, you'd have had to do a three pointer to do a U turn on a dual carriageway!
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sickpup
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Joined: 21 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 15:35 - 05 Dec 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Still too wet and cold to spray, even when it isn't raining there is too much humidity in the air to spay so it looks like when I finish the next work shift I will be brush painting the vent panel.

On another note I have been hunting for a set of road tyres in the correct size that don't cost the earth, most are in the £90 each + £15 for tubes area. Problem is the tyres are an old imperial size with a 100% aspect ratio which is rather rare these days not having been used commonly for about 30 years. Modern rubber tends to be a lower aspect ration so to get the height correct the tyres stick out from the bodywork.
Finally found These tyres which so far are the cheapest and luckily also the most efficient and the best in the rain so big win.
Yes they are weedy road tyres but I also have a set of 7.50R16 Goodyear Wranglers for use in the mud and snow. Reason I don't want to use these is they cost an absolute fortune and they seriously affect MPG taking off 2-4 MPG in use. Might not sound like much but when you are lucky to get 18MPG losing 2-4 costs a fair bit.

Also found Dunlop SP337 here which seem a much better deal.


Last edited by sickpup on 06:26 - 28 Dec 2014; edited 1 time in total
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sickpup
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Joined: 21 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 09:50 - 27 Dec 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Morning chaps

Bought a fitting kit to fit the hard top but need to identofy a few bits.

Now these bits look like they fix to the front mounts and the hard top except there are 4 of them not two so is this correct?

https://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/2014-12-27081719.jpg

There are 6 of these short rubbers, where do they go?

https://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/2014-12-27081750.jpg

Same as the last except only 4 of them and they are longer?

https://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/2014-12-27081730.jpg

Strange slotted washer?

https://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/2014-12-27081756.jpg

Two 5/16 UNF bolts?

https://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/2014-12-27081905.jpg

So anyone know where all these bits go?

Thanks chaps.
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woodyeee
Nova Slayer



Joined: 22 Aug 2010
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PostPosted: 11:24 - 27 Dec 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Interesting project........with the originality of triggers broom Smile
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sickpup
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Joined: 21 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 14:10 - 21 Jan 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Finally, another update.

Now I've been working on the vent panel for the past month or so and its almost completed, just thought I'd throw up some pictures and expalin what I've been doing.

This is how it stands at the moment.

https://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/DSCF2028.jpg

https://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/DSCF2029.jpg

https://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/DSCF2030.jpg

The undercoat is Zinc 182 primer, painted on, sanded back and a second coat applied. Then a Synthetic enamel in Deep Bronze green applied over the top, on the back with a brush and the front with a 4inch roller.

Consider the state of the vent panel when we started I am quite happy with the results so far. I didn't try to get any of the dents or bashes out, just to try to get a good paint finish.
It need a light sanding back again and another coat which should finish it off nicely.

I've done a few bits on the back to try and make it last longer as well.
I have drilled 7 8mm holes so I can inject Dinitrol wax to stop any internal corrosion and protect the vent panel from corroding from the outside in. These holes have been filled with 8mm rubber grommets.
As this provides easy access to inject the wax it will be easy to apply it every few months so hopefully other than repainting this will now last a long time, at least another 20+ years.

https://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/DSCF2031.jpg

https://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/DSCF2032.jpg

Once the next coat goes on I will have to leave the vent panel for the paint to harden for a few weeks and then fit all the internal bits like the washer nozzles, wiper arm wheel boxes, wiper motor, vent grills and demisters as well as painting the bulkhead top before re-fitting.
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sickpup
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Joined: 21 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 19:45 - 28 Jan 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've started work on the vent covers, these pivot open for air conditioning through the cab.
They only need a sanding down for the paint to key to but because they aren't flat it takes some of the paint down the bare metal. Forgot these were Aluminium so I will need to buy some Etch primer tomorrow.

https://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/DSCF2033.jpg

Unfortunately the paint is so bad on the actuator levers that I will have to take them back to bare metal and paint them as well, not something I expected to have to do.

As can be seen in this picture the paint on them is NATO green not the Deep Bronze Green it left the factory with in 1974 so was quite likely replaced when the bulkhead was done.

Hopefully by the end of this week the paint will be done on the vent panel and the vent covers so it can then be left for 2 weeks while I am working to harden before assembly.

https://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/DSCF2034.jpg
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 02:42 - 31 May 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thought I better post so people don't feel like they've been forgotten.

The vent panel has now been refitted but the work on it goes on. Still to be done are the vent seals, washer piping, wipers etc.

I have also fitted a new master cylinder so need to sort the slave cylinders on the left hand side before I can bleed the brakes.
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 21:00 - 21 Jun 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Had some time this weekend so did some more on it.

First up was to try and bleed the clutch. The slave cylinder is located in the bell housing and can only be accessed from underneath. Unfortunately its virtually impossible to see so no photos but if you ever wondered what 20+ year old brake fluid looks like this is it.

https://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/20150621_200316.jpg

The pedal has a lot of travel before it starts operating the clutch so I had a look at the adjuster which has corroded and has vibration damage to the thread so needs replacement. Hopefully when thats done they'll be a decent range of clutch travel.

https://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/20150621_204740.jpg

I also fitted one of the vent seals. I used impact adhesive, the vent flap is being held forcibly closed by the adjuster while it sets so will get a proper picture of it later.
As it is you can just about see the seal peaking out proud of the vent flap.

https://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/20150621_204808.jpg
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 13:57 - 22 Jun 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

As it has a folding windscreen it doesn't require wipers or washers but they are fitted anyway.
The washers in particular are very basic, in fact they use fish airline and connections with a simple y piece to separate the single line from the pump to the twin nozzles and angle connectors straight from the nozzles.

The right hand one is here

https://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/20150622_113641.jpg

With the left here

https://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/20150622_133027.jpg

The windscreen demister goes over the top

https://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/20150622_133115.jpg

with the hose going down to the heater

https://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/20150622_113702.jpg

I've also repaired the seat bases. These simply sit on the seat box and are located by pieces of angle aluminium. Both seat bases were missing pieces of angle so I've riveted new ones in position

https://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/20150622_133258.jpg

The seat bases have to be removable as the fuel tanks are underneath

https://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/20150622_133224.jpg

The completed base in position

https://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/20150622_133212.jpg
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 14:00 - 23 Jun 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just finished cleaning out the second front brake slave cylinder and after 5 minutes bleeding we have front brakes again.
Need to move it before I can do the last of the rear cylinders as its up against a fence but once done looks like the brakes will be fully functioning.
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 21:33 - 29 Jun 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tried to do a couple of more things today but ran into problems.
I've always had it chained up as they are easy to steal but tried to unlock it today and the Abus padlock has seized. Unfortunately I need to get in unchained so I can lift the rear left and do the slave cylinder.

https://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/20150629_212047.jpg

So it looks like I will have to get the disc cutter out and cut the padlock off.

The other problem is the V5. The last one was issued in 1993 so is no longer valid, when the new type came in DVLA forgot to issue one.
Problem is the new vehicle record that the New V5 will be based on is incorrect. It has the wrong weight and wrong date of manufacture. As it is free road tax for all vehicles over 40 years old this is important.

Spoke to DVLA via email so now will wait and see what they say.
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 17:03 - 15 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

The V5 has turned up as has a heritage certificate from the British Motor Industry Heritage Trust so I've prepared all the paperwork to go back to DVLA to try and sort the mess with the vehicle record out.

I've just finished working 13 days straight so finally had time to get around to doing things I've put off.
Took the Deauville apart today as the exhaust was blowing.

https://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/Odds%20and%20ends/IMG-20150715-WA0000.jpeg

Luckily after checking everything it turned out to just be a loose front pipe so nipped that up and it seems to be ok, will just have to keep an eye on it over the next few weeks.

After sorting the bike I went onto the Land Rover. As its parked so close to the fence I needed to get it up in the air to get the wheel off which meant using a Hi-Lift jack. Last time I used one of these I shattered my left thumb so a bit of trepidation but it was the only way I could lift the Landy high enough for the wheel to clear the fence.
The rear of the chassis is absolutely shot I discovered, the only secure bit is between the chassis rails and even that isn't great so had to be very careful with the jack. So I lifted it up and there still wasn't enough clearance but pushing the Landy sideways slightly gave me just enough room to ease the wheel out.

https://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/20150715_133410.jpg

The slave cylinder on this corner was seized pretty much solid with the shoes against the drum so as usual I released off the bleed nipple to let the brake fluid flow out which helped and then used a bolt in the extractor thread in the drum to ease the drum off. The master cylinder was the worst one so far, the pistons were stuck in the bores so into the sink with boiling water so the Aluminium bore could expand and then the pistons slid out.

It all cleaned up nicely with a wire brush on a dremel so greased, reassembled and now to put it all back together before I bleed the rear brake circuit.
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pdg
World Chat Champion



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PostPosted: 21:47 - 17 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

sickpup wrote:
... meant using a Hi-Lift jack. Last time I used one of these I shattered my left thumb so a bit of trepidation...


Well, 2nd to last time Wink

I'm pretty sure no thumbs were injured loading that lathe - or did you steer clear of the jack and let me take the 'risk'?
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Valentino Mossy
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PostPosted: 22:02 - 17 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

sideways torsional force of thumb ?
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paddlesat16
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PostPosted: 15:02 - 25 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have fond memories of driving these wee beasties in Germany, it was always disconcerting to be driving sat over the fuel tanks... Laughing

Still they were good fun, uncomfortable after a few hours and were often loaded to the gunnels with radios, batteries and personal kit/weapons.
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I once saw a bloke shagging a donkey.... in Saudi arabia. Theory Test Passed 26/10/09 Mod 1 Passed 26/4/10, Mod 2 Passed 7/6/10 Current Bikes Suzuki GSX1400 K5, Aprillia Pegaso 650, Suzuki DR350T.
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 20:40 - 28 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Managed to get a set of batteries for it from Euro car parts, £72 for the pair after a 57% discount.
The electrics all seem to be working, theres an earth problem on the front right headlight and a couple of the idiot lights no longer work. A bigger problem is it would seem the fuel pump is dead as the carb isn't getting any fuel so I need to locate it and check it over. It probably doesn't help that the fuel in it is 20 years old but the compression is so low that it should still run if it can get to the carb.

This is the batteries, between the front seats.

https://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/20150728_194746.jpg

I need to get the parts that clamp the batteries in place and repaint the cover then that at least is sorted as at the moment a dropped spanner could create a short and fire.
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 21:48 - 28 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

paddlesat16 wrote:
I have fond memories of driving these wee beasties in Germany, it was always disconcerting to be driving sat over the fuel tanks... Laughing

Still they were good fun, uncomfortable after a few hours and were often loaded to the gunnels with radios, batteries and personal kit/weapons.


About 20 years ago 2 teenage cadets burned to death when their LandRover overturned and the petrol spilled out and over them. Since then checking the tank cap seal has become part of the MOT and rightly so.

They are fun to drive especially stripped down when they are like driving a roller skate.
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Just_James
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PostPosted: 23:01 - 28 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fair play to you for putting the time and money into restoring / resurrecting the beast Thumbs Up

Too much ends up on the scrap pile and gone for good these days due to not being 'financially viable' to repair. Always pleases me to see anything like this being given a new lease of life!
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Current Bikes / Projects: 1999 Rieju RS1 50
Previous bikes - 1986 DT125R (field bike), 1989 KX250, 1980 KX420 (with 500cc big bore), 1992 YZ250, 1988 KX500, 1989 XR250R, 1988 VFR400R NC24, 1999 Cagiva Mito 125, 2008 Rieju RS2 50 , 1993 Honda NSR 125
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 23:31 - 28 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't think things are thrown away for strictly financial reasons, I think we have become a nation of pen pushers who have lost the skills to rebuild things.
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Just_James
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PostPosted: 00:27 - 29 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

sickpup wrote:
I don't think things are thrown away for strictly financial reasons, I think we have become a nation of pen pushers who have lost the skills to rebuild things.


Yep, I'd certainly agree with you there! Though maybe more keyboard warriors than pen pushers now Laughing

What I miss these days is the 'mend and make do' attitude that was all around me in my younger days. Maybe it's just the relatively poor area I was brought up in but everyone was a home mechanic and would be servicing / repairing / bodging / brush painting their vehicles outside in the street. There was always someone around who could help out in one way or another with lending tools or advice etc too!

Same applied to general building repairs etc also, people used to just have a go at it! Where as now it seems most people can't perform basic diy tasks around the home without calling in a tradesman, I find it odd and a shame!
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Current Bikes / Projects: 1999 Rieju RS1 50
Previous bikes - 1986 DT125R (field bike), 1989 KX250, 1980 KX420 (with 500cc big bore), 1992 YZ250, 1988 KX500, 1989 XR250R, 1988 VFR400R NC24, 1999 Cagiva Mito 125, 2008 Rieju RS2 50 , 1993 Honda NSR 125
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bamt
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PostPosted: 06:39 - 29 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

The deskilling is quite amazing. I work in engineering-type industries (albeit mainly software/electronics with some mechanical rather than "proper" engineering). I'm amazed how many people I know take their pushbike in for annual servicing or for basic stuff like cable changing/gear adjustements. I mentioned to one biker that I need to do a minor service on my bike every 6 weeks - he couldn't believe it only costs me about £30 for a set of filters and oil change and takes about 30 minutes.

But there is a difference between make do & mend / DIY maintenance and full restoration. The first saves money (and quite possibly time, by the time you've faffed taking things to a garage and picking them up again), the latter is more an absorbing hobby - and absolutely nothing wrong that Thumbs Up
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