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Fitting LED - wiring connectors to very thin leads - DONE

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map
Mr Calendar



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PostPosted: 09:44 - 27 Oct 2014    Post subject: Fitting LED - wiring connectors to very thin leads - DONE Reply with quote

Set about fitting some 3w LEDs as extra side lights this weekend.
Made up leads to tap into existing loom and fitted (in the best Heath Robinson style) the LEDs on adapted corner braces.

Now the wiring for these LEDs is cotton thread thin. I stripped and folded the wires and crimped onto connectors to attach to the loom.

However, as I did so they snapped at the connector.
I cannot see how to crimp and connect these very thin wires. Hence asking for advice.

Connectors were the smallest bullet type you get from Halfords.
BTW no solder used.

Luckily I didn't trim/shorten the LED wires so plenty to work with.

Help appreciated. What am I doing wrong? What can I do different?
Thanks in anticipation Thumbs Up


Update: Job now done, see post below.
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Last edited by map on 12:14 - 13 Nov 2014; edited 1 time in total
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Matt B
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PostPosted: 10:03 - 27 Oct 2014    Post subject: Re: Fitting LED - wiring connectors to very thin leads Reply with quote

map wrote:
BTW no solder used.


Y U no solder?

How thin is thin exactly?

Could just solder the connections rather than bullet crimps and cover with a heat shrink tube - this would help strengthen it up a bit.

Or use this type of thing and solder onto the pins:

https://images.cmsnl.com/img/products/2-pin-connector-set-type-250_big31107-01_5f45.jpg
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Taught2BCauti...
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PostPosted: 11:25 - 27 Oct 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nick the insulation of the wire you want to connect to, and pull it apart to expose the copper. Wrap the wire from the LED around it, and solder. Finish off with self-amalgamating tape, or insulation tape.
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map
Mr Calendar



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PostPosted: 11:34 - 27 Oct 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Taught2BCautious wrote:
Nick the insulation of the wire you want to connect to, and pull it apart to expose the copper. Wrap the wire from the LED around it, and solder. Finish off with self-amalgamating tape, or insulation tape.

That would work as the wire to tap into the loom could be removed and put back to existing, leaving the LEDs to be removed.

However, my soldering skills are amateurish at best when given a clean workbench. So doing it in situ on the bike may not be good. Will be last resort, although I'm temped just to get the job done. Just need to find where I put the plastic box the soldering iron is in Wink

I'm thinking join would be best covered in shrink-wrap tube, although will that melt the solder again?
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Taught2BCauti...
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PostPosted: 11:44 - 27 Oct 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Heat-shrink won't melt the solder.

If you can't solder, try wrapping the wire from the LED around some thicker wire before crimping. Use araldite to fix the insulation into the end of the crimp connector, without getting it on the copper - then crimp when it has set, and cup off the surplus thicker wire..
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Matt B
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PostPosted: 12:09 - 27 Oct 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Taught2BCautious wrote:
Use araldite to fix the insulation into the end of the crimp connector


Or a blob of clear silicone sealant - I mention this because we always have some in the garage.

Trouble with those very thin wires is they can snap when wiggled or vibrated so the above (like heat shrink) should hold it all together.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 12:41 - 27 Oct 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tension relief is the answer.

Crimp in the usual way with two crimp points, making sure you have trapped the insulation in the upper one. With non-insulated crimps, I would also solder (this is actually what I do).

This will make a good electrical connection and is fine for stationary wiring (say mounted on a PCB) but, as you're finding, the copper is very thin. The soldering makes sure it sticks to the connector BUT a joint which has movement in it will very quickly snap the copper just above the soldered portion.

So you need tension relief. Having made the joint, loop the cable down towards the terminal then back up again. Shrink tube this loop to the outside of the terminal. Now the join itself is stationary and any tension or movement is transmitted between the insulation of the flying wire and the outside of the terminal. You have to pull a good few mm of cable out of the shrink tube before put any tension on the joint itself.
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map
Mr Calendar



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PostPosted: 14:12 - 27 Oct 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the suggestions so far. Most helpful and informative.

Just for the record been out and photographed the wires.
https://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k503/mapidd/Biking/CB500/2014-10-27-1409_zpsc1e93c75.jpg

...and one side of what they're connected to. I did mention Heath Robinson didn't I? Very Happy
https://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k503/mapidd/Biking/CB500/2014-10-27-1410_zps777f6469.jpgYour err, finest, Chinese 3w LEDs.
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 16:56 - 27 Oct 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd be cautious using silicon sealer as
the common stuff has got acetic acid in it and this can rot the copper.
I'd follow the 'solder to thicker wire and heat shrink' tip
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map
Mr Calendar



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PostPosted: 12:13 - 13 Nov 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quick update just to round off the thread...

Job done.
Resorted to the strip, twist and solder method.

Heat shrink tube over the +ve wires.
Misjudged the diameter of heat shrink and thickness of the -ve earth I'd used. So that got wrapped in insulating tape just to finish the job. Heath Robinson would have approved.

The result is two lights that are more flood than pinpoint beam. Lit up the front of the garage and house nicely.

Result (with sidelights on)...
https://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k503/mapidd/Biking/CB500/2014-11-13-1424_zps1a26aac9.jpg

At night it emphasises how yellow the side lights and dipped/main are.

I'm a happy bunny Thumbs Up
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Gibbs, what did Duckie look like when he was younger? Very Happy
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