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Project - Paddy's ZZR600D

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dydey90
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PostPosted: 11:39 - 03 Sep 2015    Post subject: Project - Paddy's ZZR600D Reply with quote

Bought this off Paddy for the princely sum of four hunned ponds.

She starts and has tread on the tyres, but other than that I think the delivery van was the first shelter she's see.

Needs new brakes, chain, fork seals, possibly head bearing, generally tidy up as there's spots of rust in a lot of places (mostly on bolts, so not worried) and the fairings are a bit scuffed and tatty. Might end up as a streetfighter if I can't do anything with them.

https://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad191/Dydey90/ZZR%201_zpspnmfhach.jpeg
https://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad191/Dydey90/ZZR%204_zps3hg2n8ka.jpeg
https://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad191/Dydey90/ZZR%203_zpsu3d5kkff.jpeg
https://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad191/Dydey90/ZZR%202_zpslodaypp3.jpeg

Also not expecting it to have spent much time on two wheels...
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Matt B
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PostPosted: 12:40 - 03 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tokico caliper, prolly more effective in that position than standard. A chain Bodyguard would be proud of.

Apart from that looks golden Thumbs Up Keep pics coming...
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mysterious_rider
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PostPosted: 12:55 - 03 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's cheap. Mileage?

I have the e model. Clean the calliper pistons with a toothbrush and cleaner or oil while they are off. They need it every 6k ish miles.

Lube chain. Ride.

Looks quite smart to be fair....
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dydey90
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PostPosted: 13:07 - 03 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mileage is about 38k, but then the bike is about 23 years old.

I was just planning on replacing the chain rather than chisel all the rust off. I'll have a look at the sprockets too.

Haynes manual on the way, just in case.
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mysterious_rider
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PostPosted: 13:10 - 03 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

the rust will come off the relevant parts when in use, oil it and use. just see if the sprockets are shark fin shaped. They shouldnt be too hooked .


if you streetfighter, bandit tail end can fit with light modding. Mine when it looked nice (before it got run over three times)
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wr6133
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PostPosted: 13:22 - 03 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have the 400 version.

The Tokico's can be ok if bled properly and cared for. Swapping them for nissins is popular though (as bleeding them properly can sometimes be a pain the arse).

I've had reasonable luck using the acrylic filler from ladies false nail kits (the powder you mix with a liquid) to repair plastics. It's the same stuff that gets sold as "plastex" just without the 30000000% markup added. It makes incredibly strong bonds, good enough you could remake the missing chunk in the photo.

There are fairing kits available from China for about £100 + another 100 in shipping. No idea how good they are I plan on getting a set in the new year.

If you want the Haynes and kwak workshop books in PDF PM me an email address and I'll send them.
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dydey90
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PostPosted: 13:25 - 03 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have read that the D model is easy to street-fighter, so it's an option that's worth considering. That said, I think I'll be taking most of it apart to make sure everything is cool. Having a quick look over I noticed oil around the seal from the carb on the second cylinder, so I'll have to get in at least that far.

If I fit a green power band, I can ride on A2 right? Laughing
Might be time to upgrade my licence sharpish.
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chickenstrip
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PostPosted: 15:54 - 03 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Am disappoint Sad

Was expecting questions on how to peel off layers of ancient bodge tape Laughing
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dydey90
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PostPosted: 17:01 - 03 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm sure there's going to be a section on that later on when I get started properly.
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P.
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PostPosted: 18:02 - 03 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Should add, I've ridden this about... 80 miles. It has been sat here as took in trade and was going to use but ended up getting a car.

Love to see what you do to it Thumbs Up
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dydey90
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PostPosted: 20:00 - 03 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Had half an hour before the missus came home, manage to do this:
https://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad191/Dydey90/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsj66ffswq.jpg

Looks like I might need a new headlight, one of the mounting tabs has snapped and it looks like it's had an injection repair on the glass. Also may have slightly dropped it a bit when I removed it and now it rattles...

https://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad191/Dydey90/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsqjrncmcr.jpg

https://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad191/Dydey90/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsyb8cf5rf.jpg
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dydey90
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PostPosted: 15:19 - 04 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

mysterious_rider wrote:
if you streetfighter, bandit tail end can fit with light modding. Mine when it looked nice (before it got run over three times)


I'm definitely starting to think about the streetfighter route. I'm quite happy with the back end (for now) but I'm not sure how to go about the front end. What did you use to support the clocks, and which headlight/indicators did you go for?

I've stripped the brakes today and new pistons/pads has cost a lot more than I thought it would, as I needed eight bloody pistons.

Also, now the fairings are off, I can see this:
https://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad191/Dydey90/IMG_2435_zpstzulm7up.jpg
I hope that oil isn't coming from where I think it is.
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P.
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PostPosted: 16:46 - 04 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

That looks pretty clean oil, wouldn't be me Laughing
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mysterious_rider
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PostPosted: 17:11 - 04 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wipe it off and leave for now, looks like head gasket sadly, but aslong as it's not pissing out I'd leave it. I believe its engine out jobby on either the e or D models.

I went digital route, I had two speedo drives bust, and it wasnt worth my time replacing them. Second hand £30 and they don't last (especially if you accidently fit it wrong when removing front wheel).

Digi one off £40 brand new from ooracing, quality bit of kit. Perfect setup.

why new pistons? Do yourself a favour and just clean them up. 800 grit wet n dry paper should be good? If not try toothbrush and oil before then try paper.



there's a few ways of the front end. Standard clocks, be fine, but you'd need to fit a fly screen for sure. Or digital, and choose fly screen or not. I prefer screen because winter commutes are hard anyway.
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dydey90
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PostPosted: 17:43 - 04 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

How did you go about mounting the clocks? Do they come with a bracket if you buy the digi ones?

Also, did you struggle with the ram air being exposed? I've read that it can cause issues with the engine getting not enough/too much air
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mysterious_rider
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PostPosted: 18:00 - 04 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

They come with tabs to mount yeah. But I choose metal brackets. Sort of thing at b&q. My ram air was messed up before needed serious attention. Took 20.000 miles before it sorted itself out. I would imagine it'd be fine. Just test it hard through the revs before you play with the fairing set up.
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dydey90
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PostPosted: 19:23 - 04 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll have to do further research, I think the digital clocks may look tidier...
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P.
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PostPosted: 20:50 - 04 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Real sorry to see that, I'd never had the fairings off but I also haven't heard from PO about it using any oil so would see how it goes. You should be fine Thumbs Up
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dydey90
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PostPosted: 22:05 - 04 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well I did buy it for next to nothing and it's a project so it wouldn't be right it if all went smoothly and I didn't find any disaster.

Last time I removed an engine it was only a 125 so I'm not sure how well this will go if I try to lift it out by myself...
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P.
Red Rocket



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PostPosted: 08:08 - 05 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Car jack underneath got my sv engine out.
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mattsprattuk
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PostPosted: 08:41 - 05 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

My bet is on cam cover seal.
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dydey90
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PostPosted: 10:20 - 05 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

mattsprattuk wrote:
My bet is on cam cover seal.


Hopefully. Pretty sure I get down to that from the top by removing the tank, airbox and carbs, rather than dropping the whole engine out.
Might also take the opportunity to educate myself about carbs. Saying that, rather than spending ages carefully cleaning them, I could just give it an Italian tune-up when I'm done.
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dydey90
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PostPosted: 11:29 - 05 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is meant to be the petcock valve right? How the chuff do I close it to remove the tank? The brass thing is just a priming button.
https://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad191/Dydey90/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpstxv6iw3t.jpg
https://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad191/Dydey90/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsrdc6xeuo.jpg
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wr6133
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PostPosted: 12:38 - 05 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just remove the 2 lines that go down to the carbs, lift tank off. It wont pour out.
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misscrabstick
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PostPosted: 14:35 - 05 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

wr6133 wrote:
Just remove the 2 lines that go down to the carbs, lift tank off. It wont pour out.


Ermmm, I think it MIGHT not pour out is better, I have had two vacuum taps that pass fuel when the bike is not running troll me by leaking everywhere over the last year.

Really depends on how rotten/stuck up the insides are, I suggest keeping a bit of hose on the tap and blocking it with a bolt or drill bit or something.
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