DT175MX - Too far gone?

mudcow007 · World Chat Champion Joined: 01 Feb 2012 Karma :

https://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c81/mudcow007/Mobile%20Uploads/20150924_193015_zpslmenbuyx.jpg

https://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c81/mudcow007/Mobile%20Uploads/20150924_193007_zpsu9qsmbdb.jpg

https://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c81/mudcow007/Mobile%20Uploads/20150924_195219_zpsf6oev1bu.jpg

I reckon it will need new clutch plates......

Fisty · Super Spammer Joined: 11 Apr 2007 Karma :

Weigh it in.

It's more fucked than Ste's mind.
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stevo as b4 · World Chat Champion Joined: 17 Jul 2003 Karma :

I hate to agree with Fisty's prognosis, but damn he's right.

You could sink £££'s in parts into the motor, and then still need to repair the clutch cable holding bracket, replace the clutch assembly/basket and have all the services done like blasting, re-bores, skimming etc.

You'd find a better motor to freshen up far cheaper I reckon.

The swing arm and frame might clean up be ok once de-rusted, but if they are riddled with rot they are not worth repairing either.

Even if the frame was ok, and the motor had been better, in my opinion that bike is only ever economically going to be a field bike. To replace and source all the missing bits to make it a std original road bike would be thousands!

if you were doing it as a field bike, at least you could use generic aftermarket plastics, make you own seat base and fit bits from other dirt bikes, that would not affect it's value too much.

dangerousdave · Traffic Copper Joined: 22 Apr 2011 Karma :

these are valuable bikes but i dont think there is too much there that can be salvaged.

it might be useful to somebody who is trying to rebuild one as a source of a few spare parts, if it was cheap enough.

its a shame it was not looked after.
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mudcow007 · World Chat Champion Joined: 01 Feb 2012 Karma :

It's not looking too pretty I have to admit

I will leave it in a bucket of kerosene/ paraffin n' stuff, an see what happens - this wont cost me anything so i might aswell

RE. the clutch cable bracket

here the exhaust bolts to the head has been snapped off aswell Sad

I think the whole project may just be a "oh whats inside a two stroke engine" an leave it as that

Although i would really like to get it back motoring

grr666 · Super Spammer Joined: 16 Jun 2014 Karma :

Sure it wasn't parked in a lake for 8 years?
That's fucked.
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Matt B · World Chat Champion Joined: 01 May 2012 Karma :

mudcow007 · World Chat Champion Joined: 01 Feb 2012 Karma :

Update

after having a parrafin/ kerasene bath for a week or so, got fed up of the stink so drained the tank an started stripping it

https://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c81/mudcow007/Mobile%20Uploads/20151002_190440_zpsftmzqrpb.jpg

https://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c81/mudcow007/Mobile%20Uploads/20151002_193744_zps5pqgimwz.jpg

bit stuck now, im gonna have to pull off the flywheel but the locking nut seems solid, gonna try some heat i think

also there are aluminium bolts? holding the head on, got three off but the last one is chewed Sad

still haven't shelled out on parts or anything as i don't know what i will find if I ever get to split the cases

Vincent · Banned Joined: 16 Oct 2006 Karma :

If it's a UK bike and the engine and frame are salvagable, it may be worth something to a restorer, although an earlier twin shock would have been better. UK bikes with matching frame and engine numbers are worth more so someone could transfer everything over from an import.
I agree with above though....this one's just too far gone Sad

For the money it would cost to put right, you could buy one in good order....mayber even two.
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mudcow007 · World Chat Champion Joined: 01 Feb 2012 Karma :

Im going to split the cases an see what i find in there, found a bit of rust on the back of the clutch basket, thats bout it on that side......

Its the genny side that is bad Sad

it hasnt cost me anything yet so i will just have a fiddle around with it

Oh an I thought the single rear shock was earlier than the twin shock - I may be wrong though

Vincent · Banned Joined: 16 Oct 2006 Karma :

TheSmiler · World Chat Champion Joined: 14 Apr 2011 Karma :

Personally I'd get rid wouldn't intend on using it as a full project. However if you are getting rid I'd agree with Vincent there is nothing wrong having a look in the engine if you are inquisitive.
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mudcow007 · World Chat Champion Joined: 01 Feb 2012 Karma :

update

made/ bodged a piston/ barrel seperator - to try an get out the piston from the barrel...

also

just got a replacement bottom end of an engine for £50

anyone any ideas how i can remove the flywheel when it hasn't got threads anymore for my extractor?

Sean.S · Trackday Trickster Joined: 20 May 2015 Karma :

I wouldnt like to take that on, but it looks like you're off to a good start

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bypass2 · Spanner Monkey Joined: 12 Sep 2013 Karma :

What about a gear puller you can get them with 2arm puller or 3arm puller. thats what i have used to get the flywheels off

mudcow007 · World Chat Champion Joined: 01 Feb 2012 Karma :

Replacement/ donor engine has arrived an looks a million percent better than mine.

Think i will just swap the case over with the number (so they all match) an use this

It even still has its oil pump installed Very Happy

Notice on the top of the piston on the new engine its stamped "100" i'm guessing that is 1.00 so its been rebored at somepoint?

I tried a puller last night, but coudlnt get it to "grab" the case was in the way...will have another go tonight

cheers

UncleFester · World Chat Champion Joined: 30 Jun 2013 Karma :

As long as you have paperwork for it ..... you can make a good bike out of the paperwork

It just might not be 100% 'that' bike Mr. Green

Why not clean it up, get it to a point where it looks like it might be worth someone else taking it on and get as much as you can for it?
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Vincent · Banned Joined: 16 Oct 2006 Karma :

The engine number should be on the crankcase.....in which case, (no pun intended), you have to keep the two halves together as theyre "matched".

1.00 is usually the second...or even the third, rebore.

The flywheel will need a puller...the type that screws into the centre, you can usually pick them up for under a fiver if you look around. Don't use a puller with "arms".....it will deform the flywheel and crack the magnets. You screw the puller in as tight as possible, then give it a sound "whack" on the end with a hammer.

The puller should look something like this:-

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FLYWHEEL-EXTRACTOR-PULLER-27mm-for-YAMAHA-DT125-DT175-DT250-DT400-/161624637220?hash=item25a1943f24:m:mLHeT1pwOP88p05l5iQ6-ZQ

I might have a manual for this bike if you havn't, I'll go through hem later and have a look.
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mudcow007 · World Chat Champion Joined: 01 Feb 2012 Karma :

Aye, on the "new" engine the number has been err body filled over Shocked

but, this bit gets confusing....

My LH case is scrap, but the LH case on the new engine is good.

keep my RH case (with numbers matching frame) and fit to new LH case for the win?

Going to sound thick this, but....... A rebore would only effect the head/ barrel an has no bearing on the bottom end doesn't it?

Vincent · Banned Joined: 16 Oct 2006 Karma :

It's not good practice to mis-match cases, they're machined together at the factory and should always be kept together. It doesn't mean you'd deffo have problems but it's risky to mis-match.

I've got the same problem with the GT, the original cases with the matching numbers are rough but I have a better set. The best thing I could do to have the best looking engine and keep matching numbers, (frame and engine as original), would be to have the part of the cases with the number cut out and transplanted onto the good cases. I've seen it done and can be vurtually impossible to detect from the outside. It's against my principles though and if I get found out, it could lead to trouble with any potential buyers and the law. If you're caught swapping numbers around, 'first thing people think is that it's nicked and if the numbers from your 2nd motor have been deleted or obscured, there's a good chance it's from a nicked bike too.
You're a bit buggered I'm afraid, you could risk mis-matching the cases but if it goes wrong, you could end up with a gearbox that won't work properly or worse, damage to the main bearings.
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Vincent · Banned Joined: 16 Oct 2006 Karma :

Is it not being able to get the nut off that's stopping you removing the flywheel? Best way is to get the barrel off and use the little end of the conrod to hold the engine while you undo the nut. Once the barrel and piston are removed, you stick a couple of blocks of wood either side of the conrod and use something like a 1/2" socket extension bar to stick through the little end and prop on the wood to stop the engine moving while you tackle the nut.
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Vincent · Banned Joined: 16 Oct 2006 Karma :

mudcow007 · World Chat Champion Joined: 01 Feb 2012 Karma :

Cheers Vincent Thumbs Up

On my (old) engine, the barrel is still on with the seize/ rusted in piston - so its locked/ doesnt move

The nut has been removed on my flywheel, but i cant get my extractor to screw into it to pop it off

Bit gutted that you cant just chop an change engine cases....will see how they look together once i have the flywheel(s) removed from both engines.

Vincent · Banned Joined: 16 Oct 2006 Karma :

Puller must be the wrong size......the flywheel is on the left, ja? If it's on the right, it'll be a left-handed thread.

They do get really stuck on sometimes, and sitting with all that rust won't help.
2 important things to remember, unless it's been off recently, it's not the tightening of the puller that gets the flywheel off....it's the whack with the hammer...and, it's very easy to crack/damage the magnets using a legged puller on a forged flywheel. More solid, cast ones aren't as bad but those steel ones don't like legged pullers, they can deform and damage the magnets. Having said that, you can usually pick used flywheels up cheap.
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Vincent · Banned Joined: 16 Oct 2006 Karma :

This is what the puller should look like, it says it does have a L/H thread, maybe that's why you can't get it started. It's 24mm x 1mm and 27mm x 1mm:-

https://yambits.co.uk/dt175mx-flywheel-puller-p-9290.html

Make sure the internal thread on the flywheel is as clear of grit as poss, use a toothbrush or similar soaked in de-greaser to clean it out, working clockwise. You need to screw the puller in all the way.
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