KLE500 resurrection

[stinkwheel]

I haven't taken pictures from the start of this, didn't think to.

I've had this bike for years. I'd done a 17" wheel conversion and it has a GPZ500 engine in it.

Got a new bike and put the KLE in the garage then when I pulled it out a few months later to MOT and sell it, found the tank had sprung a pinhole leak and made the plastics go all melty. Shoved it back in the lockup, where it's stayed for the last 5 or 6 years.

I dragged it out of the corner a week or so ago and set about it. It was in a fairly advanced state of yakkiness. I've decided I'll try to get it back on the road in time for the rat and survival show at the end of May. I don't want to spend a fortune on it but I'm prepared to give it some of my time.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0446.jpg

First step was to see if it's still a runner, otherwise, what's the point?

So first problem was no throttle movement. Stripped it down as far as the carbs and found the close cable broken, the open one was moving so it was a seized throttle linkage. Pulled the carbs off, split them, cleaned and lubed the linkage then refitted them.

Used one of my spare fuel tanks off another bike to jury rigg a petrol suply and hooked it up to the van battery. I cranked it over wth no fuel for about 30 seconds to get the oil round it then fed it some gas. Fired up on one after a couple of seconds and the other followed. We have a project!

Shock and swingarm were very minging so I stripped the back end out.

I've wire-brushed the worst of the rust off the frame and primed it with iron oxide.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0441.jpg

As you can see, there is a lot of surface yad on it.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0442.jpg

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0445.jpg

New throttle cables. I'll keep the old "open" as a spare.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0443.jpg

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0447.jpg

I'm going to re-instate the original spoked wheels with a view to doing some arsing about on it. I've already got a road bike.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0444.jpg

It's not as bad as it looks. Most of the corrosion is very superficial. I also reassembled everything using copper grease so I've not had anything give me a problem with removal yet.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0448.jpg

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0449.jpg

Had a good find on ebay. £25 for a new side-panel to replace the one that's gone all Dahli from the spilled fuel. In really good nick. They've just taken the graphics off (can't really blame them, wait 'till you see the purple seat!)

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0450.jpg

Stripped all the paint off the swimgarm and primed it. I'm going to do it with stonechip coating then gunmetal paint to match in with the frame.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0451.jpg

The shock spring was pure rust but the shock itself is working fine. Took the worst off in an electrolysis bath. I've decided to rock some truck-bed paint on this. Should be both tough and flexible.

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0452.jpg

Got a whole load of other stuff to do. Painting the swingarm, treating the tank and finishing off the callipers on the cards for tomorrow.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[stevo as b4]

Cool!
I like the sound of a stripped down lighter KLE with the GPZ engine, 17'' wheels and some kilos lost. I think it would make a good budget twin cylinder Street moto with such work.

[stinkwheel]

[Meatybeaty]

I think I'm going to like this thread Stinkwheel .

[stinkwheel]

Brake callipers.

One hell of a mess. I had to hook them up to a master cylinder and bleed them to get the pistons out. Compressed air wasn't touching them.

After I got the pistons and old seals out I did them with paint remover to take the remnants of the paint off.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0405.jpg

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0407.jpg

Then I soaked them in reasonably strong caustic for about 20 minutes to get the worst of the corrosion off. Then half an hour in the ultrasonic cleaner. Looking much better.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0414.jpg

Next job was to mask them up (stuff the holes with paper towel, then tape over the openings with a disc of cardboard in where the dust seal sits). Painted them with plastikote BBQ paint, dried it then gave them a couple of hours in a hot oven. Note to self: Remove masking before putting in the oven next time.

I think they've turned out nice:
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0491.jpg

Ready for reassembly:
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0493.jpg

Seals in:
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0494.jpg

Pistons in and lots of red rubber grease for the sliding pins/boots:
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0495.jpg

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0496.jpg

Anti-rattle clips and we're done. The carrier is a bit on the mucky side but it's black phosphor coated so I didn't feel the need to paint it.:
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0498.jpg

Slight probem with the rear calliper. I ordered seals and they were to big. Everywhere that supplies aftermarket seals for the rear calliper for a KLE lists them as 34mm. The ones I have are 30mm. I've checked and it's the correct calliper, it has the part number stamped on and was still on the original pads when I bought the bike. I can only conclude that all the aftermarket parts suppliers must have replicated an error. The calliper superficially looks identical to the ones used on ZZR/GPZ series bikes which do have a 34mm piston. I've eventually managed to order seals from wemoto by diameter rather than model.

Rear brake master cylinder had a lot of corrosion round the linkage and control rod.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0499.jpg

After cleaning it up as best I could it was looking ok but the clevis joint was exceptionally manky. I can't get the cotter pin out at all. Turns out you can buy stainless clevis joints on ebay for under £7.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0500.jpg

I cleaned and greased the control rod then slid a piece of silicone hose over it to stop it getting all yakked up again. New clevis joint and good to go.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0501.jpg

Coat of stonechip paint on the swingarm. I had the pressure too low so it's more claggy and lumpy than it ought to be. Going back over the missed bits would mean I had it on WAY too thick. The paint is solid though so now needs a top-coat.

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0502.jpg
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[Deathoctimus]

nice the calipers cleaned up good.

looks like it needs to be placed hole in a blasting cabinet!
____________________
Shaun
Current Rides Fireblade 900 RRN / DL1000 past: ZX9R B1 / GSX 600F K3 / YBR125

[stinkwheel]

Top coat of plastikote "No Rust" on swingarm. Not pretty but should be very robust.

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0510.jpg

Just getting the tank stripped and ready to clean and seal tomorrow.

You can see where the paint has blown. The design is stupid, the fuel tap lever passes THROUGH part of the tank that holds fuel. Fuel can't even get out of here because the tap is above it.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0511.jpg

Viewed from underneath. That thin sort of saddlebag bit where the tap pokes through is where it's leaking. I'm hoping the tank sealant just fills that bit in altogether.

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0512.jpg

Incidentally, spray brake cleaner does a brilliant job of removing foam. I'm going to red oxide then stonechip paint the underside of the tank.

A little flash rust around the filler neck.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0514.jpg

But the inside of the tank is pretty much like new. Just that stupid little leak causing the problem.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0516.jpg

I'm on call this weekend so if I'm not busy at work, I'll be tinkering. Hope to have it virtually MOT ready by Monday. The tank may be the limiting factor.

Not sure what to best do for the paint finish. Most of the tank is pretty ship-shape. I may do those lower "saddlebag" parts on either side where the paint has blown with matt black, maybe even over-spray with that textured truck bed liner and leave the top part of the tank standard.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[stinkwheel]

Tea break!

Got started on the tank. First off I made a little blanking plate from a bit of scrap alloy wrapped in gaffer tape to block off the fuel tap hole.

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0519.jpg

Then in with the cleaner/degreaser. I split it in half and did it in two lots, because solution chemistry.

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0518.jpg

While that was soaking, I set about reassembling the back end of the bike.

Lube the roller bearings and sleeves in the swingarm with moly grease (these were masked up for the painting).

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0520.jpg

Re-attach the chain guards. Ys they're mucky. Yes, I'm getting greasy fingerprints on my new paint. No, I don't care. Oily muck never made a bike rot away.

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0521.jpg

Grease and re-insert the rear brake pivot BEFORE reattaching the swingarm.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0522.jpg

That new clevis joint looks good and fits like a glove.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0523.jpg

Two lots of mad-hot cleaner-degreaser thoroughly through the tank by this point so a good swill out, a pressure-wash inside then add the metal prep. This is an acid-etch so the tank needs to be sloshed about with it and turned every 20 minutes.

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0524.jpg

Unitrak on the KLE has roller bearings, unlike the GPZ. I didn't realise this but I'm happy there are, the nylon bushes in the GPZ ones wear and are a classic MOT fail. More moly grease.

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0526.jpg

Swingarm in. Shock threaded up through swingarm and top bolt in.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0527.jpg

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0528.jpg

Order of operations. The lowest bolt and the corresponding dog-bone on the bolt-head side needs to go on the unitrak BEFORE the unitrak is fitted into the frame due to lack of clearance. Then the frame attachment, then the shock (and tighten it down) then hook the dogbone to the swingarm and add the other one.

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0529.jpg

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0530.jpg

New sprocket 2 teeth smaller because this is a GPZ motor which makes a bit more power than the original KLE one. This puts it halfway between the GPZ and KLE gearing.

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0531.jpg

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0532.jpg

Rear wheel in. Looking more like a motorbike.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0533.jpg

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0534.jpg

I know my paint is silvery-grey rather than gunmetal but TBH it seems a reasonable cosmetic result considering what I started with.

I've flushed out the tank. SHaken as much water out of it as possible and given it a blast with a hairdrier (I have a garage hairdrier). It's currently sat in a small room at work with a heater on and dehimidifier going full-blast (solar panels so free electric). Should be positively dessicated by tomorrow when I'll do the actual tank sealant.

Few odds and sods to do now. Front brake, clutch cable and lever, speedo cable, sparkplugs etc.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[Meatybeaty]

Hi , good little cadre that for lining the tank, should save it somewhere , and I prefer to call it patina rather than muck, it gets me out of a lot of cleaning that way, great thread.

[stinkwheel]

Ok. Play abandoned for today due to poor light (no lighting in the area I'm working in).

Fitted and bled the front brake calliper. If you order pads for a KLE500 from one of the big parts wholesalers, they'll send you a set of utterly dire EBC "red stuff" pads meant for offroaders. They are the exact same calliper as the 1st gen GPZ500 so order pads for one of those if you want brakes that both grip and will give you more than one good stop in quick succession.

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0535.jpg

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0536.jpg

Typical master cylinder cap bolt rounded out, despite using the correct JIS screwdriver. Drilled and unscrewed. Takes minutes. I'll pick up some M4 bolts tomorrow sometime.

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0537.jpg

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0539.jpg

New speedo cable (lost the old one).
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0541.jpg

It had a previously bent then straightened clutch lever. I'm happy with the metallurgy of straightening these so it won't break BUT it's at an odd angle so I'll keep it for a crash spare. The cable is also totally screwed, nearly totally seized.

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0542.jpg

Sparkplugs.

Deeply recessed plugs on these bikes which need a special long reach, thin-wall plug spanner. You can't do them with a standard socket. I've got a couple but damned if I can find them.

The recesses are a collecting area for little bits of gravel and road dirt.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0543.jpg

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0545.jpg

Obviously, if you try to take the plug out here. All that gravel will drop into the engine. So you need an the use of an airline for about 10 seconds or to spend about half an hour with a blob of blu-tak on the end of a stick. If using an airline, you also need goggle. Really, unless you like sandblasted eyeballs.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0546.jpg

Result.

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0547.jpg

Oil and filter change tomorrow. Also plugs, coolant, tank sealant. Perhaps primer on the outside of the tank. Install battery and start reassembly as far as is possible without the tank.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[hmmmnz]

love your work,,
hopefully your plugs come out with out mishap,

are the gpz motors a 270' crank tdm style or regular 360' crank??
____________________
the humans are dead
I kick arse for the lord
Wiring Diagrams BIDNIP it bitches

[Bru]

Very cool, practical thread. Thanks.

With regard to those recessed plugs - I add an extra step after the air-blasting, and squirt some WD40 (other brands are available) over the area, to anchor any loose bits which might be disturbed by the plug removal.

Are those Armstrong GG pads better than the EBC 'organic' pads, do you think?

[stinkwheel]

[stinkwheel]

First thing I did today was go to Halfords to get a plug wrench because I can't find any of mine. Probably lost in the last house move.

True to form, they had every possible shape, style and iteration of plug wrench EXCEPT a long reach 12mm one. Ebay.

Now the bike has a back-end, I can get it up on a paddock stand. A bit less rickety than a car jack under the sump.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0550.jpg

The tank has been drying out overnight in a hot, dehumidfied room. I took some time giving it another blast out with the hairdrier and airline. The last stage of the sealing process is to pour the actual tank sealant in, roll it about until it's coated the whole of the inside then drain off the excess. The stuff looks and behaves in every way like silver hammerite. Draining the excess out took a fair bit of jiggling and rocking.

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0553.jpg

I had a fair bit left over so I decided to use it as a primer for any bad bits on the underside of the tank and used the patch cloth to go over a couple of bits where it's been rubbing on the airbox.

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0554.jpg

Looks like we're in the home straight now. Drain the coolant by loosening the radiator cap and undoing the drain bolt on the bottom of the water pump cover. Copper grease on the bolt meant it whizzed out. I'll refit it with a dowty washer this time.

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0552.jpg

Draining the oil. A ratchet spanner helps make sure I'm definately undoing the drain plug the right way (I still confuse myself when bits are upside down).

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0555.jpg

That oil filter is very corroded so proper tool time!

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0557.jpg

But since it was me who put it on and I put them on hand tight, off it came with minimum fuss. Took longer to get the filter out of the wrench once it was off. New one on the same way.

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0558.jpg

And a nice new dowty washer for the sump plug.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0559.jpg

Haters gonna hate. I'm using car oil. This engine has been run on car oil for 70k+ miles. Always used to use castrol GTX but it's getting pricey and hard to find in 10w-40 without diesel additives.

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0575.jpg

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0576.jpg

Now for the chain. Old faithful Hein Gericke chain tool which has done into double figures of chains now and is still on its original pin. I like EK chain and it's usually cheaper than DID.

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0560.jpg

With the adjusters wound right down, the ends of the chain are a pin out. I'll need to loosen it a tooth so it can be joined.

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0561.jpg

Remove the excess using the chain tool to push out the pin.

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0563.jpg

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0564.jpg

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0566.jpg

Rivett link. For some reason, KLE500s are really prone to having split links shit themselves. Might be to do with the chain guide? Dunno but I'd recommend rivett links every time. Push the side plate on so it holds in place.

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0568.jpg

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0569.jpg

Then use the chain tool to push the links all the way on and mushroom the ends.

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0570.jpg

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0572.jpg

Yay. Chain.

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0574.jpg

The tank sealant has hardened by this point. I'm going to need to do something with the outside of the tank so I've masked it up and hit it with some "zinc 182" primer.

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0587.jpg

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0588.jpg

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0589.jpg

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0590.jpg

I'm going to use up the last of the stonechip paint on the underside and do the sides of the tank with the rest of that texturised truckbed liner. Trust me, it'll look great.

New battery and check the electrics.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0577.jpg

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0578.jpg

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0581.jpg

Faulty front brake light switch and horn. Ebay.

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0586.jpg

Replaced those master cylinder reservoir bolts and bolted a whole lot of bits back on (tank cradle, footpegs etc.). Starting to look like it might be ready for an MOT on Friday.

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0585.jpg

Tomorrow. Painting tank. Refill coolant. Fit numberplate. Tidy up. Probably move bike back home.

Still waiting for parts to-do list: Reassemble rear master cylinder, replace brake switch, replace horn and change plugs.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[stinkwheel]

I should point out that the reason I'm going into this in excessive detail is so parts of it (or the pictures) may be helpful to someone else.

It's als re-enforced to me how much of a pain in the arse it is getting a bike back on the road that's been standing. Be interesting to totty up how much I've spent too.

Very relevant to people considering buying a cheap shitter/project to do-up. Remember, this bike was ridden from Ullapool to Cumbria and simply parked up and left. There are no parts missing and it wasn't broken.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[stinkwheel]

Not much to report today.

Stonechipped the underside of the tank. Filled up the coolant (it'll need topping off once it's been run), new numberplate and fitted the new horn.

Bunged some of the bodywork back on too. Need to bring a supply of grommets from home to replace some of the missing ones on the bodywork/belly pan.

Needs rear calliper fitting and bleeding, plugs chainging, front brake switch and the tank finishing off. Then it's just a very few bits of bodywork to reattach and it's ready for the MOT.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[.Chris.]

Interesting. Definitely true what you've said about it being surprisingly expensive to recommission a bike that doesn't actually have much wrong with it. Consumable stuff like batteries, chains, tyres, brake pads and the like can quickly add up to hundreds.

Appreciate that you probably had the paint lying around, but I'm not sure white/light grey is the best colour for that swingarm!
____________________
Chris
1985 Kawasaki Z550F

[Sload]

It ain't cheap or easy so fair play. I stopped messing with cars when I realised what a bloody timesink it was when you start adding it all up. And if you are doing it from scratch tools and material cost is horrendous

I now have a lot of tackle that hardly gets used
____________________
Honda Varadero >> Triumph Speed Four >> Honda CBR1100xx

[Kris]

I too love that feeling when a bolt that looks like it's going to be a bastard to undo - comes away easily because you copa-slipped the bugger like a pro last time round..

Good work.
____________________
NSR125RR - ZXR750H1 - ZX9R E1 - GSF600S - GSF600SK3 - VFR400-NC30 - SV1000N - ST1100-R - CBR900RR-R - GSF1200SK5 - GSF600SK1 - VFR1200FA - GSXR1000K2 - ZZR1400 D8F
www.prisonplanet.com

[pompousporcup...]

[stinkwheel]

Stonechip paint makes such a mess!
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0591.jpg

Front fairing sections back on.

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0593.jpg

FINALLY got a correct size seal for my rear calliper. Wemoto listed them by size and they turned out to be OE kawasaki parts when they arrived. Odd setup, they have a dust boot rather than a dust seal. The boot covers the whole piston sitting in the calliper where the normal dist seal does and in the groove in the top of the piston. Keeps crap off the piston but they are a sonabitch to fit.

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0594.jpg

Having fitted the main seal, you need to put the boot seal over the piston, leave it hanging off the bottom then gently work the bottom part of the seal into the groove in the calliper. A bit like fitting a tight bicycle tyre but in reverse.

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0596.jpg

Once that lip is in the croove, you can go ahead and push the piston in in the normal way. When it hits the bottom, the boot will pop into the groove in the piston.

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0597.jpg

And it's on (yes the hose is very exposed. I double checked the routing and that's where it goes. It's usually clipped to the top of the swingarm with two plastic clips.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0599.jpg

Loosely re-fitting the homemade pannier rails.

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0600.jpg

Locating tab on the end of the side panel. It locates into a kind of rubber "fork".

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0601.jpg

It's broken off on one side. The thing does flap about a lot without it so bodgery to the rescue.

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0602.jpg

I told you truck bed liner would look good on the tank.

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0603.jpg

No rust here.

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0604.jpg

Also fitted the new brake light switch.

Just waiting on this damned plug spanner now! Should be with me tomorrow. I've bunged some ATF down the sparkplug recesses to help ensure they come out easily.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[stevo as b4]

Great pics with lots of detail and explanation too. Interested to see it progress too.

Oh and I agree with everyone saying about recommissioning old vehicles being silly expensive at times when it's just boring but essential mechanical work and non visual cosmetic improvements being done. I just wanted to replace the suspension, brakes, tyres and a service on my car, and I've had to save a few £k up now, as it's going way beyond that, I'm pricing up ECU's etc, for something that won't do hugely more miles a year than my bikes ever will.

Interesting about the experience of crapness of EBC red stuff pads. I took a new set out on my KMX and replaced them with HH sintered which is night and day better in terms of bite at least anyway.

[Kickstart]

[stinkwheel]

Still no plug spanner ffs.

Enough with the waiting, I can do it again. The heat of the engine running will probably loosen them off a tad anyway.

Tank on.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0642.jpg

Seat on.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0643.jpg

Notice numberplate light isn't working. Spend an hour drilling horriffically rusty screws out.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0646.jpg

Ride into town on enfield, book MOT slot for later today, pick up can of petrol.

Sidepanels and racks back on. Fill with fuel...

Hurredly take racks, side panels, seat and tank back off.

Apply flange sealant to fuel tap flange.

Tank back on. No leaks. Seat, sidepanels, rack back on again.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0647.jpg

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0648.jpg

Bike in van and half an hour later...

.


.

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/kle500/CIMG0649.jpg

I'd forgotten how poky this bike was. It's actually going to be quite a hoot. I'll insure it tomorrow and take it for a spin. I'm pleased how well that truck bed liner works on the tank. Just need to watch I don't spill petrol on it, although it's apparently a piece of piss to re-coat if it wears/comes off.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[stinkwheel]

Brake switch: £5.50
Rust not paint 12.53
Clutch cable: £6.99
Clutch lever £5.75
Dowty washer: £1.26
Clevis joint: £6.89
Stone chip paint £10.90
Tank sealant kit: £35.49
Speedo cable £6.99
Truck bed liner £8.99
Number plate £6.50
Chain. £39.94
Front calliper seals £4.95
Side panel £22.99
Brake pads £19.94
Sparkplugs £5.04
Horn £6.50
Rear calliper seals £17.50
Plastikote BBQ paint £12.50
Engine oil £11.99.

Wemoto order:
Battery
copper washers
oil filter
rear sprocket
open and close throttle cables
£71.69

Total: £320.83


None of this includes the time and the multitude of fittings and spares I had lying about (like braided brake lines, hydraulic fluid, coolant etc).

This bike should also by rights have has two new tyres and a set of brake discs but I had the old wheels dry-stored with new tyres on. The ones I took off it were fucked. So double the above to have truly put it back on the road.

Worth remembering when you see that cheap, high mileage bike that "needs a little work for the MOT". This bike would have passed an MOT the day it was put away in the garage.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.