Minsk 125. CCCP era 2-stroke commuter of the people.

stinkwheel · Bovine Proctologist Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :

I found some cable grommets which fit nicely in the holes for the rubber pads the seat rests on.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHfMA4NmizgryiZJwdKZcyEHPLzq9raADAuvweyG8EDrNc6pBfI-nOpKLzE2Efa3ySmXUbxKsleRaomn617Dblj33xQULI8Ml1T7sF4QmocJenhXJEUnIonlUtXD6NWW5iNpbOpAFgvzfSMo8ZPIevUS=w1547-h870-s-no

Fitted them along with a big washer to try to spread the load a bit as this is a weak point, the washers are bonded on with contact adhesive. They are compresed in use.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHfb_fBYzpiH0JAP6uDJQ8RUdNuDuMet67hFyUmdXARzzwjBw9oslBMRSRBnmbR7KYIWdtMrl2qiaJyTD4H9Ku0w9bAciFe6ZcXaS8DWUHLhWV9HMqaWa6dwP-ImnSfO9kC77Sy2q4a9ViYiyNxf7pE4=w1547-h870-s-no

I sunk a short capscrew into them which bulges the rubber enough so they won't fall out when you open the seat.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHc4a0QH6VbI58qlOHI-rNT2y_U4QjDKZ_LcKZWdQUxOu1HgF8krpFiuqb8f_xQhKw2CUCVWH35wFWsWiBsQDE2KBhQGMC0RZVlb0g8UqZ8Bi3uSMbSrXC11cvYCg089Dz-mhe1I3H90z5ePnPpgbYEh=w1547-h870-s-no

Car door edge strip round the perimeter of the base so there's no sharp edge to tear the seat cover.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHc3nkzoc5rPB1DB1xvVoENQ2ppQClRNsh-d3ur4jzRzrHH756LPgGUP-d1uOfx2TPXbWNtvJh5Y4W5ucHySWYZBfAfBDgoX3D7FBBTCalUlLWPxuscaKnnxjbvLq7-5gHb-qNdHl4o8Lhyub4ThvCQ6=w1547-h870-s-no

Attached the foam to the base with a few dabs of contact adhesive. I got a bit of seat vinyl off ebay for the job. It's not expensive.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHcCxLta_3C6Dgbw7-_LrvoHHPQG-hPYgAQRiQIkbgSaPvPFT5WZ5TvrioHBslrhcM2ytd87botljLxQL6j7iiwKwv3sUhX62I8TNhlr6e7J_I9PDb0HQQzNXNKVIqJv_zCL1bWU2h3bGf3u4luxVY1r=w1547-h870-s-no

I wanted to stretch vinyl over rather than using a shaped cover because for one shaped covers for this seat are really shitty and for another, the shaped covers always seem to land up baggy.

I was then on the struggle bus. A steep learning curve. It's not unlike wrapping bodywork but takes a lot more force to stretch the vinyl and it doesn't stay where it's put. Heat helps a lot. On any tutorials I could find, they were using plastic seat bases and staples. This is helpful because you can pull it somewhere near and tack it down with one hand, then use heat to stretch the wrinkles out and tack it down again. Once you have it all you can go round with your final ring of staples taking the tension right up then remove the tacking ones.

With a metal base like this, the only anchors are the holes in the rim and you can only use them when it's in the final position because they go through from the outside making a hole in the vinyl. If I was doing it again, I'd drill a ring of small holes in the underside and use self-tapping screws to hold the vinyl. Once I was happy I'd got it right and tight, I could then put the outside rivetts in.

The other thing I'd do is use a stretchier grade of vinyl, it was a bugger to get this to conform to the shapes and I eventually failed at the nose of the seat and had to put a tuck in. Not the end of the world because the tuck is hidden between the seat and the tank but I know it's there. That said, the original cover had a tuck here too.

Not 100% pleased with it but it is a massive improvement over what I started with. I would do it better another time. Need to order some more flange rivets, there are a few gaps that need filling.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHe2h73pa2Ip0Qgoh8cWakWct7AYNTNxOMaGYBbcPGP21x33jX87auAj8EgGtMGxIr76ISt70GCKS-XHEmOaE8hsGMJD9KsHx_wmcv9zPLK3V7vD8_ot6p7AHx_CTRSneghrBmGCFiGvScFooUtGet3g=w1547-h870-s-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHebN09CNeC5x9GEw5aXmD58pp-pfOsIVjST6AyzqdhEqO127CJRjj_CRHPvOG0lBwge8Te3LmAJSJKvBB1LcZxh_5sigcKmTIOHCynmoKj-PrDZin2P_oc0OLNAQgrgp8l1msn4YZTpVoC8AMnod1j_=w1547-h870-s-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHcrsZQVVcgtxpzFcd70nhDGU0eOqYef1bLqRMlJFO1QDcywfBoPF4pv9xBtbXXS9k0PTFys5e2rO4JlOnZLiftrwInJH_nLdj7onrU4M9kkEBJntFCzQreWS5mlN0vE72hUnKIkIgakU3nPu3mcMTWV=w1547-h870-s-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHekEYik3pk7BUQDjpOmH2AqRTanadIp3hfihOq4PR1cHacsionZITNT1yUAndKWIvw6xR3VHQtvx2J6N0-xIJVgXej6lA3_tqS0ErVugmrgJ2zhnmk9xw-zdT90_gsfiOLG8-wAaJCaamUC7x166XIc=w1547-h870-s-no
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

A100man · World Chat Champion Joined: 19 Aug 2013 Karma :

I bought a cheap seat cover for teh FZ (which ws probably a mistake) - any how to avoid even more staple holes messing the plastic base I glued it place using 'Shoe Goo'. I had a series of spring clamps and glued a section at a time - taking a couple of days overall due to curing time.

Not a bad option I think in the end, but time consuming.
____________________
Now: A100, GT250A, XJ598, FZ750

Then: Fizz, RS200, KL250, XJ550, Laverda Alpina, XJ600, FZS600

stinkwheel · Bovine Proctologist Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :

Cleaned and reassembled the forks. It's a lot easier when the seals are in a carrier. I had to cut the felt washer in half to accommodate the slightly wider seals. Removed any surface muck from the stanchions with 800 grit wet and dry.

I was wrong about the damper rod being unsecured. The drain bolt (which you can see at the bottom right) has a plain extension beyond the threads which goes through a hole in the bottom of the damper rod. What a good idea, excelent retention, provision for changing the fork oil without stripping the front end and no messing about trying to get bottom bolts out of rotating damper rods. The Japanese could learn something.

Can't fully assemble them because they are a taper fit into the top yoke.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHfL1OWi2Oq2AB3OMuNKCAb6rmzANrM5gbXzhodDcV6_zZ4ImmBn5q5Z82tn7kmUaGFT9727QqD9IjL__gjwTZpmtJVGD0LzmSVqS921CmYAt1dKSz21CQMqJPYocnlnCm_xCR6AiwaUrWMxSZGVVZh1=w1547-h870-s-no

Wheels are as clean as they're going to get and fitted the new tyres. As soon as possible after the frame's painted, I want it sitting on its wheels so I don't damage it. makes sense to get everything ready to do that. On that theme, I should have a look at the shocks at the weekend. I'm on call so I can't start any big jobs. They may well need new bushings.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHc3VLygzU9I3STj5wMqj4dVzRNakHyCIE9MAH46UqM7eniy4E5hCMjOwzESUso1ETLopGeYO97hvn8Hev4fEDdhl0FPIJg1_raET8if8FsZD3aOJxki90P_GhoeY1Eg6bQfxlu60z9c3ZRuhhnontcC=w1547-h870-s-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHcfkZjqi4zGcsmWkPa3rLPqRMSVwKc-SHo7VRygPRhRU_NW_vc7tpdWQIb9mpSg9Q4jB2mECVksdXmxint_5CldbDyQNr_UffN4gY6qLLM_Sbsf1xhAmvfuJjBH-etfFYJ5m8AlqUop6eJHLXtYV_Ee=w1547-h870-s-no
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

stinkwheel · Bovine Proctologist Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :

Frame and swingarm are back from the sandblasters. come up nicely and doesn't look like there are any horribly shoddy welds. Bit of a ding in the seatstay tube but I don't think it'll be an issue, plenty of triangulation around it and it's hidden behind a toolbox once assembled.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHd7oRfo8JUQrpFHlxorWfh2WDpMnglDRF6J-2TIkWf97aNqBDS4Qurc89lyIJpzNRXuWo1BgG4AHx4iSYnezYxGE6qUOcvaUGloSU3W3OFsukdgoeFzydIHqktCixhIQPBOPGfHFy2gY4uOM_rAJCG7=w1547-h870-s-no

When I say no bad welds, obviously a footpeg bracket came off and there's not much penetration round it. It'll have happened in an off though.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHe-JYV5Qd9BSWjkVZfZ72TWyJNIbwLF32WOIQMboCgLX570XpmKtc419PbM0Ub-fO0Jr3D1d18VBQey2a7Hp6MDHBA9dzWurnZ6u8fGOI24z0RpflKplbLc21Vx2uRJJCy3DQbU_9aicql_DoPppkmL=w1547-h870-s-no

Cut off the other side too at the same length and bevelled the end ready to accept a weld-on Sammy Miller footpeg bracket.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHeVnYSDB42MHrY8CpJ7sEApYqHv_43Q-1Zwip7SK-ayWr82ceB4xRkUvfNb7BRsgaYfH2yK75EsfNT76Ezflm_zmm1WZ5O400Vy2YZxsEO4yIWYjnWIBV_nRhBa-NRU2rUTFgw7kkaFRY2N_x-bIWrP=w1547-h870-s-no

The bracket in question. Yest I could probably make one but at a fiver a pair, it was far easier to tack it onto another parts order.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHd5Wssd0s74Oq_4w2PS7SxaPsGKK_oRU3O2ZX_KFg5AWhVkUfLThWFeQzaNniuAyxHOSCP0Y5i4yOoTZPyMe8CVrN5kpnghOGRW5EDZaGj8xyuXrbAcU3yJdUm-_tHb6dchUlk5uFSKbza2kxoeedJK=w1547-h870-s-no

Cut some solid slugs which are a tight fit in the frame tube.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHf-wf0uHqEENrqqpeV212LuVhLbjqkUyEHpS3viLoZLZJnuRlOmuv0NLwYDb5FZyVjxZY-_YTXAKR9rg93Xa4dSgFRdo7mrYWTxAKby4dQ4dvcwi3xPBRdrBwXMXOULXgv1VUm8AHQkJJyCWtz5RAsw=w1547-h870-s-no

Drilled a hole in the bracket, plug welded them to the slugs with my stick welder then drifted them into the frame tubes in the correct orientation. I will not do the final weld attaching the bracket to the frame. The plug is more for insurance and to make it easy to clock the peg position. I don't trust my welding skills enough but the guy up the road is a really good MIG welder and that's really what this needs. Couple of passes into the recess I left and it'll be more solid than the tube. The pegs that go in are alloy so these tend to take the force of a crash and are cheap and easily replaced.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHcUjWEf_jJi1Nz71NeNXnVCBcvh1X7RSUcMrCLIAcUQKKPcML59oFH-p2pNHAwu-VuZuC3ayColddORuC55ptR82fvx8rORmkzGld7NPZqO6-VNof7ac1-ozt1Fy_GBy4C0BxeqK14AWiChZhp7P60G=w1547-h870-s-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHfA8UoQL2BJk6EmSgh3ZJQnDeMZKWVMFOeQuk9jpMhw3i10tn_9dZM8852n-G5SfbE8clmdGZDVVlvvYUq8JFTvC2sWk2Et5S66FuTJLla1TD4BBHfKQYfC0rl8-nmnClBBUDWR9ZRHADHiIipkloCx=w1547-h870-s-no

It'll be a while before this is all painted. I want to spend a day priming everything, it'll all be done with the same primer so there's a lot of prep still to do. Done all the metal with phosphoric acid to prevent flash rust. The primer can go directly on top of it.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHedXhkeQW_XRZtnfQJ7uI19jDMJW0U9wJ3hFGf01TZfRL2SpcKSqKXhpsFx-ANObLFmIPsLN_US4F7D3BfVFIdUMqAYNdMUrffH5HeBQCFT8LCxgQ1ZyaSJiCDeQmtYrymeL3-abOJ83j3ZCvT1tVG7=w1547-h870-s-no

I had a brief go at the tank. i initially thought I'd rub it down and fill then prime but the more I rub, the more dents and dings I find. The shade of blue also looks suspiciously like it's baded on Prussian Blue which is a cyanide based pigment so I'd rather not be making a load of dust with it. I'll strip, guide coat, block, and fill what the guide coat shows up.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHdjtkxF3iu__PByS1hr11ryQjvR1pb0wFkMQo_W1RDNu_OSqfIHK13Og6rjpWdDxzhnx_u3xjqAzs6VTtYtymTIUMk4t4K3r9ob7IBypsUfHS9Jh8d3ctwIf2yHKQuNtKFVQTS5gF794CoPk9KERwjL=w1547-h870-s-no
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

Easy-X · Super Spammer Joined: 08 Mar 2019 Karma :

Thanks for the tip about Prussian Blue Shocked

____________________
Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, ~~Honda Rebel,~~ ~~Yamaha DT175,~~ ~~Suzuki SV650 (loan)~~ ~~Fazer 600,~~ ~~Keeway Superlight 125,~~ ~~50cc turd scooter~~

stinkwheel · Bovine Proctologist Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :

stinkwheel · Bovine Proctologist Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :

Well, looks like I'm sanding it. Paint stripper's been on for 2 hours and hasn't even softened it. I've run out of startchem and it looks like the illicit ebay supply of DCM containing stripper has dried up.

I also got quoted nearly £200 for four vinyl cut decals that will fit on a single A4 sheet. That's with me supplying the artwork as vector graphic bezier curves (or whatever format they want). Top quality raw materials are about a fiver. For that, I'll cut the fuckers out and pick them by hand.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

A100man · World Chat Champion Joined: 19 Aug 2013 Karma :

stinkwheel · Bovine Proctologist Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :

rpsmith79 · World Chat Champion Joined: 31 Jan 2017 Karma :

A100man · World Chat Champion Joined: 19 Aug 2013 Karma :

WD Forte · World Chat Champion Joined: 17 Jun 2010 Karma :

Member when I played about with vinyl cutting on me cnc?
fuck know where all the bits are atm but seem to recall having a bag of various A4 sheets of the stuff somewhere too
(All in range of attractive colours)
I think I also bought some of that transfer tape stuff before losing interest and moving on to other projects

https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=329464
____________________
bikers smell of wee

stinkwheel · Bovine Proctologist Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :

What a difference having the right tools makes. The air sander blitzed the paint to a 120 grit and ate out the dents for lunch.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHdQQLkhskhJBo3KXB4GqDmBbHZkMRs2BZJBoP_-ziqZaFxZ_ksnDwyhUMmN1BmPL_o6pUhhT78XCWlBSpXCtEiEGyFcNC4ka8hwEDH6dIZtqoxRADm5PbRVBcDY6HKk9x8JK8IVvTkjUkBe7oDCgP8c=w1547-h870-s-no

Filler, the lazy mans dent puller. the house now smells like my Dads shed in the early '80s.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHdCZfVCi1YhNmP88EtTgfMTN3vjtsFKViAnsikPd46yGKUNFUjXfbg8mEkwqbCesWX6dajEsQnYpU9SPxDQd6-WBb2coMoQ_qpsHATd04Bgz3qTK9j8kVVvWJ4DrLPfThRMqBfS2sBurvy1aYNMLPhc=w1547-h870-s-no

Not used this for a long time. Goes on easy but the working time is super short. Smaller batches next time I use it, I had to redo a couple of bits because the filler started pulling out.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHdJPSYpkZkvaJ802oZT1c0y1mj8otZwfXSi10aOnEJ_LVrsw4aq0ld6E86bxXTfJIlEBDMMhSbGLlks46UyIVymb0dHdUVVok6rXGa_d2GARUDos1-wKXInKyoqMmuKi3VoJfHYxWmomEXfUkVyC--2=w1547-h870-s-no

I also got a proper sanding block for bodywork. This was also a good idea. Hogged the rough off with 80 grit then 120 then 240 to feather.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHe3YQ8wRm0SkOhEwLTXy7Fs15nIlvQhK2UhGHP00pHofiee6qH2I4-UqpL-NtCWA3cK1iq4mvy_jB76dB6tv9IUsm4xTCXgjd7Lu7ViBf1q-AJpZZWx3_i7blNIofLbc75FOYpXJBJYJSL4sXIe8xb1=w1547-h870-s-no

I can't feel any of the edges with my fingers so I should be able to prime then rub back for a smooth base. The tractol primer goes on thick and self levels so two coats will probably do it, might even get away with one. Not sure if I should block or air sand the primer, there are some nice fine grits with the air sander and it can be used wet on account of not being electric. Maybe level with the block then go up the grits with the air sander?

It'll be put to one side for now. I'd like to blitz the primer because I hate cleaning out spray guns and I'm using the same stuff on everything so the task will be to get it all prepped and ready to prime then pick a good day to blow paint on.

Engineering guy wasn't in today but I had a crack with his dad. Barrel and piston have moved from the wooden hand cart near the door to the shelf next to the boring bar which means it's next.

I'm getting a little worried my dynamo system may not turn up. It's supposed to be coming from Ukraine so I don't know what if anything is getting out. I'd looked at some other aftermarket systems. None of them would be a direct fit but electrex do a universal 2t one that does everything I'd want it to. I'd need to make up a back plate adapter and have the rotor taper machined to fit. Engineers Dad confirmed they can do this with their eyes closed if needed.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

Easy-X · Super Spammer Joined: 08 Mar 2019 Karma :

Most people I've seen on the 'Tubes doing tanks prime, a light guide coat then sand back (and maybe more filler if really bad.) Always hand sanding though.
____________________
Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, ~~Honda Rebel,~~ ~~Yamaha DT175,~~ ~~Suzuki SV650 (loan)~~ ~~Fazer 600,~~ ~~Keeway Superlight 125,~~ ~~50cc turd scooter~~

stinkwheel · Bovine Proctologist Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :

Mind you, I feel I may be overthinking this tank. It's not straight, it's not symmetrical and they didn't bother grinding down the welds much. The filler neck is a good 5mm off centre and the middle weld isn't in the middle Some of the curves are very undulating and that's not from crash damage.

It all has a very handmade feel like they were given a roughly pressed-out shape then had to kind of push it all into some semblance of alignment on a buck or jig, welding as they went and trimming off any excess. There is some factory filler and glaze on parts of it and just a single layer of enamel paint on others.

A guide coat may show me things I don't need to know about...
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

virus · World Chat Champion Joined: 17 Aug 2006 Karma :

I think you might be overthinking the paint too chap. By all means you want a nicely restored and clean example of a MB when your done, but I worry if you go too far with 'perfect' paint prep and varnish then it may take away a lot of the eastern bloc character?

Cheers
John
____________________
own: 81 xs1100g...
owned: 85 rat CG (sold), 91 GS500e (stolen), 84 gsx400f (scrapped), 81 z250 (siezed, siezed, scrapped), 83 cb250rs (sold), 84 gpz750r ratfighter (killed) 84gpz400 (sold), '80 cb650 ratfighter (wrote off) 95gsx6/12f ratfighter (killed) 91 xj900 (sold)
stinkwheel Well I just had my hands up a pigs fanny. Which makes your concerns pale into insignificance.

stinkwheel · Bovine Proctologist Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :

Tomorrow is engine reassembly day. My head has been buzzing from the amount of things I'll need to do in the correct order and the lack of a coherant manual is not helping. Specifically some things need to be heat fitted then other things need to be heat fitted once the first thing is fitted but without that thing falling out again so it needs to be done in the right order and the right way up. Like the left side has two main bearings fitted either side of a circlip.

I sat and went through my stripdown pictures and wrote an order of operations list. It may be wrong but it should stop me missing anything off. I'll make a note of any deviations then put up a PDF of the final version, it might help other people. There are some bigger steps in there like "Install gearbox" but it should help.

Left Crankcase

• Fit circlips
• Heat crankcase inside up.
• Fit inside main bearing
• Fit layshaft bearing
• Fit mainshaft bearing

Right Crankcase

• Fit circlip
• ?fit shim washer? (check, may go between crank and bearing, look for witness marks)
• Heat crankcase inside up
• Fit main bearing.

Left crankcase

• Heat inside up
• Fit crank
• Allow to cool
• Apply gasket

Right Crankcase

• Heat inside up
• Fit left crankcase half and crank on top
• Fit crankcase bolts

Left Crankcase

• Fit star washer (dish facing out)
• Fit oil seal (open face to outside)
• Fit plastic spacer
• Heat alloy housing
• Fit outer main (may also need to heat bearing depending on fit on crank)

Right Crankcase

• Fit star washer (dish facing outside)
• Fit crank seal (open face to inside)

Gearbox cover

• Heat on alloy block
• Fit layshaft bearing
• Fit mainshaft bearing

Left side of engine

• Assemble gearbox into Left Crankcase
• Install output shaft and gear into gearbox cover
• Install gearbox cover with new gasket
• Install shim washer on ouside of layshaft on gearbox cover
• Install output shaft oil seal in oil seal holder, open side facing in.
• Install shim washer over output shaft or in seal holder
• Install output oil seal cover with new gasket
• Fit final drive sprocket
• Fit tab washer
• Fit final drive sprocket nut and oil seal
• Fit clutch pushrod (?modify for ball bearing?)

Right side of engine

• Install kickstart quadrant and spring
• Install dowel pin over spring end
• Install shim washer on kickstart shaft
• Install two fat spacer washers over mainshaft.
• Install clutch basket, primary chain and primary sprocket.
• Insert sleeve into clutch basket centre
• Check kickstart function
• Install primary sprocket spring washer and nut
• Insert clutch centre
• Install clutch centre tab washer and nut
• Insert clutch plates
• Insert clutch pushrod “top hat” section
• Install clutch pressure plate
• Pull springs over pressure plate

Left crankcase cover

• Fit new kickstart oil seal
• Fit kickstart oil seal protective cover (+RTV?)
• Fit crankcase cover with new gasket.

Right crankcase cover

• Fit clutch operating arm and spring
• Fit clutch adjuster cover
• Fit crankcase cover.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

P. · Red Rocket Joined: 14 Feb 2008 Karma :

Build is looking great so far!

However.. how much for the dusty ass PS2? Shocked

stinkwheel · Bovine Proctologist Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :

stinkwheel · Bovine Proctologist Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :

Lots of messing about with parts in and out of the oven today.

Circlips fitted on one side.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV870uWSjliNw85FrTFyDZqOxKUxSCe-j8MjIobPtWE-bozGyW5lFOmaLuFHhAU7WZ4lVpNnn4WXknHVy3J_oqKdHmhDVpzCG1-8uDTZHhi3b8Rf6BppoahhIgt6GktXT76ZNQeYP1BCgO-g7hk7mMbtP=w1547-h870-s-no

Heat the casing up, freeze the bearings and they drop right in. Slight panic because I'd been supplied two of the bearings with metal shields and I needed open ones. Turns out you can pry the shields off easily enough.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV84MS2WnsaeUmeA_RkeaksA0w0v0qjPrg9eAr2Zd9sM2trrsW7XQBm6A35jI83d5OjoEcoXKPGOZAQjjbq32D2skI6oP7NPMYL3DVUyjYDjSN47fLuvBU0D2q-S0v_Mivb7xISBaR3vTS8TxUIGHWTyw=w1547-h870-s-no

Same on the other side.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV84CDKBuSTYA-4PyPL_J3Jv-GNZeL29MNTknya2kCXEaJPC4QnCEnMD-3EopswkvUW04ZXf8myu3QtB8yDfKzymhZZDBV4CkqwReXVVBdPNeCb_eiT61ABdtEkZz95ZttM-ZQNhn0SXPqMYDRWtZDkCp=w1547-h870-s-no

The bearings in this bike, much like other Eastern European bikes I've had are tight on both the crank and in the case so heat up the whole crankcase with bearing in then put the crank in. Taps down easily with a rubber mallet when it's hot. The other option would have been to pull the crankcase onto the crank by the inner race but this seems less of a palava and doesn't risk damaging the crank threads,
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV8532PLIgWX_gb4yOLfdINXAP6b78CPY-4Mx2Zf82IuE1qIHiIifyGEYdqXcC6_WJZNha9S5NwEoS341z0U42wXQHfGb-k5gLQwcsvuO5LymGN2q3-iRDaGN1leKwzrxarcbUPSzTxj05xJmorwxq8yR=w1547-h870-s-no

Once that's cooled, it can be flipped over without the bearings falling out to do the other side. Although I'll admit I had a false start because I was impatient and thought it was cool enough. It wasn't and the bearings fell out but i put them back in again quickly so panic over.

Managed to find a UK supplier with a gasket set.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV84VNPczNCcVSSwxYrvGmBxdGDQ2HPmFBaUhoQ6nbs1P8k78RtWQE1meubQy2gdFmySrdrGxb8O9ly-frOs1Gp2-4o_z4uPXvHxV4K109-GVv8T5LRa4OW5F4yKgafL9eb4EeX_KXK_JA_QkzJGb6BGC=w1547-h870-s-no

The age-old controvertial question, do I use a gasket compound? Vertically split soviet crankcases with rough as a badgers bottom machined surfaces. Yes, I'll use gasket compound. Way less risky on a 2-stroke because there are no oilways to obstruct and this is a thixotropic compound so any squeeze-out ought to wash off with the oil, it doesn't set unless it's been compressed.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV848xLUgKLfQueFc5kseWsSut8u9hBMeyLUNWYMvhf3_tI_DxCKW7qstrgKPXexxBq6U8tChYG5ie0JkrE3mjwg_MJ9r-6UAz-p5UUD2h7xtiaDq4bSnnkHsoqy47xx6Ckruo0t0HHw6ukTpZWLQICVL=w1547-h870-s-no

I couldn't find decent quality cheese-head bolts in mild steel, they were all low tensile or unspecified strength so I had to go for A4 stainless. I don't like doing it but I've used lots of ceramic anti-seize on the threads. Have to be cheese-heads because they fit in a recess. Allen heads are too tall and torx button-heads have too wide a head diameter.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV85sC6TEwN6tU7MKvQwHAoiJbxNZ1gIVU9U9z9U6H0M3lgWlB-rmr2gAq0r-ox7wwRRXG1MmE1MilorExmUnvXbauuTUq90MF5WpcpN-_ZLuDYqaJ1Cf0OQU6tKwEBxICfkVCICHV9-NaI0xXlHtsmAJ=w1547-h870-s-no

All buttoned up with new fasteners. Got just the right amount of gasket compound, it's squeezed out all round but not beyond the edge of the gasket facing.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV874dJQbKrUEDzhG8Tbd6TxqyZghrSgeTYKIk7qTwpS19IyGvsM7bkkw0eyd_D5fp-IzueQOi3R0GV_YxvVxfGZNttTudi6DbxDV__bpNFR8ALj1v1ZQwoqPfbdff80op6k0BzMO6qh5dr7iukjpO0v7=w1547-h870-s-no

I can't find the torque charts in the Russian manual and it would be irrelevant because it's for low rated steel bolts anyway. Well lubed A4 stainless in M6 should be 8Nm so that's what I've done them. They feel right at that. About as tight as you can get them with a plain screwdriver plus a slight nudge tighter.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV87MsjLRcJ6-cC4M3cSPiUdu0ZNnhAkTC-DHqEkXKrT7pZIQ7cco4Fga85RMYV9G65SM8heKSAaXvx_1Zlg7dVI7A_Ojq2zHj1XIfGByk8ox9EJHf9EAz_NbcyXzRlQnjO9Ii22BuRCZfLczqos655ge=w1547-h870-s-no

Oiled up the inner mains with 2t oil.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV86B82_XWbJQ8Srig_mWdpJbZxu5sp4cwNnbTmARbTfuY3ehOjqjOR7cwDhu12cwdNmd0cHWbJhDMo_6NczDYOMYCX8WndPnVcrOZeRjC57QnYkfC9kJPt6Jhln8W2HMJKNkUgi0iwff-68RK1WlR_Is=w1547-h870-s-no

Star washer to keep the seal off the circlip.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV85g2Za2pvPkLasVDMoaTnng497__Vr3vE8d5_5M9hsQ4G4R12zJtgmqGit8TjZ6fWMWdr1qTQxGJEjKPNo04Sud2rh1fBmXXh3ngmhvDkqOZyTtBAjGtuixMKJ2sLAx6Rz-2OHNLnOsyH_u9vqM9hI-=w1547-h870-s-no

Splurged on viton oil seals. This one goes between two main bearings. One is lubed by the 2t oil, the other the gearbox oil. It was fitted open face out, presumably to stop it drawing in gearbox oil. I've upgraded to double lip seals anyway so it should work for both.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV85PsQo8FJuKp9DxkM3nY4m7DfG7cA0gtRZLIRbMk2rfX11PJRoVkjcIaF7XFg7rZH2iF80sog7ewNKQmNz53n8cjv45oBSaBmBt9AHDw9vxr3uavBEplx48obgS5Qm3YGxpoqBx1IFQvz9ganBDDIjX=w1547-h870-s-no

Plastic spacer. Don't ask me, I didn't design it. I nearly messed up here, I was using one of the old bearings to drive the spacer and seal into position and went a bit too far, nearly got the old bearing stuck in. Some heat and assistance of mole-grips averted that particular panic.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV85KTC-SjVYVM5y5qiQl8GFC1KsJoa2QqyDdK0qwwlxIQ8T6B-uGYBzCvvDgoEdZmePGcEKlN_Y6na69W7Yhh2-CCTElTXv1P71DB4u7NccLCq8RsBBxlk18HLzT7ycEh7Vr7bzeMYwR6LVFLlfw152k=w1547-h870-s-no

Outer main. Heated the case and bearing with a heat gun then drove it in with a socket against an old bearing on top of the new one. It did not take a lot of force to tap it into place, just a smidge more than pushing by hand.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV84sjBiYBgVJHuuoPvnnVNE2z0LF-y4gNDBIv-2B4OBmLSa0yfGOjRXuzjnqKesnuhAOFYqlHRlg205WsHG2eckX_Ttti465s3tU0oaaQcCIdaja3I9T9un5u3aiwIKWqTCN27USI8E6rZ3GxhZfb-DC=w1547-h870-s-no

Star washer on the other side.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV84VsM9ejurX1ucLmZwGs35Ya-zCBj6lAdhrCOFe-D2i8DgfjE-rRuq5_I16khSWfywrUfFrPfwJWq3j9qFoA1uVz655CMuGtinDMr_bboChmIm-n6_sXukfTiMVYvhC2xM3fjLbEkt0uHcplTGyp7CB=w1547-h870-s-no

Only one bearing and the seal facing the other way.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV84o0YS2xOy5tGFf8lQqJs212WSg0uVHXzoP9MvDWqyM98qgQcnsyplkIDkNQyf0pcS3of-Huz3NEtEQ8TwYMH-7AHSMqdhJ72-rLthJPVkuCf3vuL3rJUMSJuAhy2G3qYF76VL1JJBIwGP48ZnAlhG3=w1547-h870-s-no

Gearbox outer cover bearings were tricky because there's no circlip to fit them against. I did them up against an alloy block which was flush with the machined surface of the casting then allowed to cool.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV85gf_zBgQfejLluVwoAMn2-VDiqV_htZb0GlzhNEOGPXXmtx8_w9ii7LD7QK5ZYSE-0SEtdf3R7yNZdVEqKBXOzoJGKG8o0Y3v0s_1OU4ILRjDTTKYeBXslkoj2vK9NwBUYAHQTYPy3g0vzB-DvECau=w1547-h870-s-no

Next step I have down as "Fit gearbox". Taking a break first. The worst of it is over.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

stinkwheel · Bovine Proctologist Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :

So yeah, assemble gearbox. I cheated a bit in that I didn't totally disassemble it so i dropped the gear clutsters in on one piece then jiggled things around until everything was fully home and meshed and the forks were engaged in the selector plate. In fairness, with most gearboxes, there is only one right way to assemble it and if you don't have that, it doesn't all fit. (With the exception of an Enfield which will allow you to reassemble the gearbox backwards).

Previous experience has taught me to leave the pin the selector forks slide up and down on until last, if everything is in the right place, you'll be able to slide it through. It's also really important to make sure it's fully home. I once pinged a lump off the crankcase casting on a bike when I tightened the crankcase bolts because one wasn't fully home

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV861k3bbn-k3hImA3kV24tBQJ0GHojXYNk10D1-vd5rIjMJsel6OTX4rXNqK4H8jFRstKgHJJDGHNBDn0a3jryAGJCuXd5J3DyigsgFyn98OWI1oH3JDVOoMWW8emSDA2dPBPsTef9KUPhdwElqV-l14=w1547-h870-s-no

Selector pawl in.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV85OTG4AavWeCIzcLmtostWmBeAQ1N_6fB8jh54xc6C7CJrXV0psqtsiASmlcQN2ZLMPASPEqMP-wxTMBD4jhR_Qes0HPsABnXJ0ZAcbvRgfAn870UZq9H9lt5KWrZPAI5WW86T_RP28dBl3zOt-KC8J=w1547-h870-s-no

Then bolt down the gearbox cover with a new gasket and more gasket goo. These gaskets are made of really high quality gasket paper. Colour me surprised.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV86b_a8d9rHblL8_OlPaSQ_In0VbAHwlm7_tH0UQ_rIdj2inVf4jfbA8Z27dSYmeDWWmige2YxdmIFdwJRljkNNMjtNv3JwaBkR3_9x0keXhigvUcwpf1xBswTJGPLGdaoANO_X1KhWi9A6oMPGenxeP=w1547-h870-s-no

The larger of those two bearings pushed up and out, it's a poor fit. That's the final drive output shaft and is the one that had collapsed when I stripped the bike, presumably that did some damage. It was spinning in the housing.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV85XzFpfOldmhCNmCtD1LBC1_ME7AOejXLGAsYi4BxujOzbaKuqqom76g_egmF9AGXP0IXwMFIND0Xm3dB2v5-wh3_rjhAuyoElJ--1s-nwuov-Uevz3UXE3CxfzkdHGTQjaoaDxeUJaK6zRxAKBmeJd=w1547-h870-s-no

There's a solution for that though.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV84OCXxGn7e1ZHEYCsU2YVdNAivQUB1Ki4O7jXDaEl5B0vcLqaprpbVnoqEojn-OPSQnCWGumR9d6Dc_o92rM86MAZ01PVY-xLnzg7J0anJt65DWPK6dDcvPhI7WhldE91EdiQgMYsXLTXw---jo2C66=w1547-h870-s-no

All screwed down and shim washers in place.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV877fxlDZUsesbu2ZdHb5_gh9BC7pndlBzA5l41g8OaZEIx211bPyMpbV51PhoG0rdcT2PpKctjDxIZF6uNM8WOkc3yMlikwju0vsO4ZU9BtvEgqLS1Jxsv09QoB0Es1FZl0PHfgPCPB5ncw-XWcn-ER=w1547-h870-s-no

See what I mean about those gaskets.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV87qFCF2uej3geApnyRHJjCOSBiclCUsIm09WNmAdoYsXfplhLf27zt_x7ptO-j6hbV7Nh6yFyM50xUoQpoIoexMn5LHvbYiFQSckybnZbmXGsvo3LvFjfO611mXWb7noP6M8wUYzb76gsehqPGYtQFo=w1547-h870-s-no

Slice of milk bottle to protect the output shaft seal lips from the splines during fitting.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV84fL-M6N4TJiIF9KdH9Qz-mMa-LrjpSdk7V6txYAMu92KA4VGpAKvGQMvwgTmKuxomPp4iXvHZyl8C3ITehqX-ibFvr9t-6bpPZggLbum5RP6zKWvrnmy0ues_rYS0P0_BbMYVoLzGKE3eOBqFkehdc=w1547-h870-s-no

Shiny new button-heads. These ones are high tensile steel.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV86_GcS6dMAYlA6jhgFThAGQDqOtj1oTlkOiXZD1wub5Pnxv0SWU_tbFJOYl0WXiSqPUP2AP5ziGmR2OlWa2rIDGxBABqKPQTz3ue9mxCARvjeXtcLA3SRGAtSz78Zcg0fOQyZ12CiTiQr6H4Z46yzGb=w1547-h870-s-no

Final drive sprocket, nut, and clutch pushrod fitted. It's a erverse thread nut and has a tab washer so it should stay put.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV84kR930rDERuqG3pnFkFeMf68o5r15kpc2EZZP3eNAaBR4AcQXe5qFs6FUYkq0ZcQxf4QczejnPhDCGO6-k26xeQDNtDxpa0xsx7cbwXMFAsqkNMAkNqYBw40D3DM5rkgfcckrNn-eMBvWjj5eYuN_Q=w1547-h870-s-no

Had a quick check to make sure it's selecting gears. it's like stirring porridge but I seem to recall that's how they are. It did get all 4 gears though and there's some adjustment on the selector pawl shaft. Also difficult to judge how it'll shift when the engine isn't running.

Needs the primary drive fitting next but I'll leave it there for today. Quit while you're ahead, the clutch springs try ones patience.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

virus · World Chat Champion Joined: 17 Aug 2006 Karma :

making good progress dude!

Isnt that permabond stuff the goo you used to make a jawa crankcases permanently best friends? if it is lets hope that bearing has a long life Laughing

____________________
own: 81 xs1100g...
owned: 85 rat CG (sold), 91 GS500e (stolen), 84 gsx400f (scrapped), 81 z250 (siezed, siezed, scrapped), 83 cb250rs (sold), 84 gpz750r ratfighter (killed) 84gpz400 (sold), '80 cb650 ratfighter (wrote off) 95gsx6/12f ratfighter (killed) 91 xj900 (sold)
stinkwheel Well I just had my hands up a pigs fanny. Which makes your concerns pale into insignificance.

stinkwheel · Bovine Proctologist Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :

stinkwheel · Bovine Proctologist Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :

Robby · Dirty Old Man Joined: 16 May 2002 Karma :

Looking over your engine strip down pictures, the only place I can see something like it is behind the kickstart oil seal.

Do they have a proper small end bearing, or just a plain bush? If it's the latter, could be a little end bush from one of your many pistons.

Hopefully it doesn't live behind the clutch.