1999 FZS 600 - Speedo wire repair, what v connector?

[NJD]

Hi,

So the wire for the front wheel speedometer (wire into plug in junction box, not a cable to dash unit) on my '99 FZS 600 Fazer has gotten caught in the lock stop of the bike and has been damaged and the speedometer doesn't work so due to the cost/rarity of a replacement unit I'm going to cut the wire either side of the break and use a butt connector.

I'm looking at Halfords and they sell a 5v butt connector and a 15v, 25v and 35v. Since the bikes got a 12v system I'm going to assume that I'd need the 15v type?

Thanks.
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The do it all, T̶h̶e̶ ̶b̶r̶o̶k̶e̶n̶ ̶o̶n̶e̶,̶ ̶T̶h̶e̶ ̶b̶i̶g̶ ̶l̶u̶m̶p̶,̶ ̶C̶h̶o̶n̶g̶ ̶N̶o̶o̶d̶l̶e̶

[stinkwheel]

It'll be amps not volts. A digital speedo sender will be super low current so I would go with whichever one the end of the wire fits in best/most tightly. Probably the 5A.

EDIT: Get these ones. Crimp them on with a proper crimping tool then shring the skrinktube on with a lighter.
https://www.halfords.com/motoring/tools/fuses-electricals-and-fixings/electricals/halfords-heat-shrink-butt-connectors-5-amp-ele112-725222.html
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[NJD]

[WD Forte]

As above there's not much current so 5A is way more than
the actual current.
I cant see the cable of course but as it would only need pretty thin wire,
I'm not sure if a crimp would be too big to properly clamp the conductor wire.
If so, solder and sleeve may be a option.
____________________
bikers smell of wee

[NJD]

Took the plug out and added a 5 amp crimp to the black wire (only one cut), but it didn't bring the speedometer to life; although I did only move the bike up and down the path down the side of the house so may need to take it out on the road when I get a chance to see if it moves then (not sure if the speedometer would move at such slow speed).

If my repair hasn't worked I might just lug it to the local shop if they'll do it cheap, I know if I bourght a solder iron I'd murder the wiring and its thin as thin gets anyway.

https://i.postimg.cc/kXhCPjCP/IMG-0538.jpg
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The do it all, T̶h̶e̶ ̶b̶r̶o̶k̶e̶n̶ ̶o̶n̶e̶,̶ ̶T̶h̶e̶ ̶b̶i̶g̶ ̶l̶u̶m̶p̶,̶ ̶C̶h̶o̶n̶g̶ ̶N̶o̶o̶d̶l̶e̶

[WD Forte]

It doesn't look that thin to me
I doubt pushing it will have much effect, better to jack the front up
and give it jolly a good spin and it will probably only twitch a bit even then to say 5-10mph, or get on and ride it a bit.
____________________
bikers smell of wee

[stinkwheel]

Are both ends of the wire crimped in there? The lower crimp is only gripping the insulation. I'd put four crimps on that style of connector, two near the middle gripping the ends of each wire and two near the ends gripping the insulation. Try pulling it apart, if it comes apart before you grunt or the wire digs into your fingers, it wasn't crimped properly.

The red wire has also been pinched. Could it be broken under the insulation? Again, try pulling it apart, if you can, it was broken.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[NJD]

Sorry riding it down the side of the house is what I mean I'd done, and I didn't notice any movement in the needle. Is definitley the wire though as I'd replaced the damaged inner hub that clicks into the wheel recently after it was damaged a long time ago thinking it was that.

I'll have a second look at the crimp in the coming days, I am terrible at wiring despite this being about as simple as a repair as it comes

Will also look at the red one, and update if needed.
____________________
The do it all, T̶h̶e̶ ̶b̶r̶o̶k̶e̶n̶ ̶o̶n̶e̶,̶ ̶T̶h̶e̶ ̶b̶i̶g̶ ̶l̶u̶m̶p̶,̶ ̶C̶h̶o̶n̶g̶ ̶N̶o̶o̶d̶l̶e̶