Ignition key connection problem

[whyber]

Hi. I have a ybr125 fuel injection 2012. Done 25k. The connection when I turn the key is very bad. When I turn the key into on position nothing normally happens and I have to wiggle it to find the connection so the bike powers up. It never goes off while riding. I don't get any error codes, the pump primes when the connection is found.

What procedure is it to fix this? Is it change ignition key barrel or something else. I read that I'd have to drill out non-removeable screws to do that. I've got a haynes (currently 150 miles away right now l) so hopefully there'll be something in it to advise me.

I was on here last year because I had a charging issue that you guys helped me with. Turned out the stator was burned out, but the rectifier seemed OK. I changed the stator and all was well for a while. But now the problem has returned, I'm only getting about 11.7v at idle, though anything over ~4000rpm gets enough to keep battery charged, so it's not killing me yet. I've yet to check stator and suspect I'll find it burned out again.

Finally, since I changed the stator last year the starter motor turns over fine but the bike has helluva time starting that way. But if I use the kick start from cold, the first kick doesn't fire it, but the second one does. Every time.

Are all these problems related, do you think? Could the ignition connection thing be affecting other things?

Thank you for replies.
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Hot and tired

[stinkwheel]

Have you tried giving it a clean. Spray a good lot of WD40 down the keyhole and cycle the key a good few times, then follow it with electrical contact cleaner then silicone spray. Might just be dirty/wet/corroded.

To change the lock, you do need to remove security bolts. When I've done it on other bikes, I found it's easiest to take the top yoke off complete with the lock and do it on the bench. I've usually found I can get the bolts out by tapping them round with a punch and/or grabbing them with mole grips. Sometimes need drilling and my tip is to file a flat on the top and centre punch it before starting. I suspect you could also dremmel a slot into them and take them out with a screwdriver/impact driver.

With some ignition locks, it's comparatively easy to seperate the switch part from the barrel with a bit of wiggling and poking. If this is the case, you could leave the lock bit where it is and just swap out the switch section withotu having to remove the lock.

Unless you can order an OEM one which has the same key as your current one, your tank cap and seat lock will land up with a different key. You can just carry both keys. You can also replace all three locks which are often supplied as a set or it is possible to dismantle and rearrange the wafers in the locks so they match a particular key. From experience on other bikes, it's easier to dismantle tank cap and seat locks than it is to do ignition locks.

I don't think a bad ignition switch will be causing sluggish starting itself but it might be affecting battery charging or putting a lot of load on the charging system which can result in an undercharged battery.

If it's burned out two stators, you have to wonder why. Reg rec or its connections would be my first port of call. Also when did it last have a new battery? If it burned the stator, it suggests it's been overcharging, this could knacker the battery. As could chronic undercharging which you seem to have now.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[Nobby the Bastard]

Its not so much drilling out but taking the head off them. The threads are usually quite loose and can be undone with your fingers. If necessary just cut a slot on the top with a dremel and use a screwdriver.


Basically they are a pointless nause to deal with but not that difficult.
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trevor saxe-coburg-gotha:"Remember this simple rule - scooters are for men who like to feel the breeze on their huge, flapping cunt lips."
Sprint ST 1050

[WD Forte]

The stornoway and back YBR threw up bad coil error codes which eventually turned out to just be oxidised RR connections
its up under the LH side of the tank and prone to the weather getting in
Since this was addressed it's been running perfick and
he was up in Birmingham on it last week
BTW bad RR connections can cause stator damage too

Get a can of switch cleaner and open check and clean every electric connector you can plus grounding
This is often overlooked and should be part of normal servicing on any bike

RE the ignition switch I recall tacking nuts on the security bolts to remove them but a squish of switch cleaner may help first

Also the similar age YBR I work on has a horrible feckin rats nest of cables and connectors stuffed in behind the headlight so get in there to check, clean it all up.
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bikers smell of wee