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bedding in pads ?

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rockers
Scooby Slapper



Joined: 29 May 2008
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PostPosted: 16:56 - 13 Mar 2009    Post subject: bedding in pads ? Reply with quote
Hello there all, got myself some new front brake pads for my bike. also had to bleed it.
So im guessing brake pads need to be bedded in ? or am i wrong ? will there be a noticeable difference from now and when there bedded in?
bleeding - so far ive got my brake to the state that it will stop you quickish, but doesn't really have loadsa bite, is this the pads or air in the brakes ?
What is the best way to get the air out of the system ?

Thanks

Rocky
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Finglonga
World Chat Champion



Joined: 27 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 17:26 - 13 Mar 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote
If there is air in the system the lever will feel spongy.
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Louise
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Joined: 22 May 2006
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PostPosted: 18:12 - 13 Mar 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote
Ive had a nightmare with my new front ones.
There is either air still knocking about somewhere in the lines or I have a leak.
Ive just use almost a whole bottle of fluid bleeding. Will need to do again tommorow.
Will tie the lever back tonight to see if that helps at all.
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Itchy
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Joined: 07 Apr 2005
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PostPosted: 18:18 - 13 Mar 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote
Louise wrote:
Ive had a nightmare with my new front ones.
There is either air still knocking about somewhere in the lines or I have a leak.
Ive just use almost a whole bottle of fluid bleeding. Will need to do again tommorow.
Will tie the lever back tonight to see if that helps at all.


Bleed the far caliper first , then the near one (where it splits off towards the other caliper) , then hold the brake on and shake the bike on the suspension , and it should loosen any bubbles that occur, also you are putting the bleed tube in a small cup of brake fluid right to prevent seepage in?.

Shouldn't take more than 30 minutes to do by yourself on a twin disc system.


To the OP how are you bleeding the brakes? , a good tip is before you put the caliper back on is to give it a shake which should loosen bubbles trapped in the caliper and also to give the cables a shake.

There isn't actually any need to use the bleed nipples as you can do it the slow way via the master cylinder, ie just keep pumping it over and over and tiny bubbles will come out it takes a VERY long time though.
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rockers
Scooby Slapper



Joined: 29 May 2008
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PostPosted: 19:20 - 13 Mar 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote
Brakes feel a little bit better, tried getting some more air out.
i just fill the brake system up with fluid as best i can via a syringe joined to the caliper nipple. then shake and pump lever, of which a lot of bubbles comes up to the reservoir and has just left it then pumped and shaked abit. am getting there slowly.

Will the pads come to life? or do they stay the same from new?
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alun111
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Joined: 31 May 2007
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PostPosted: 19:24 - 13 Mar 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote
The pads will need to bed in, yes. This will take anywhere from about 50 miles to 200 miles depending on how hard you are on the brakes.

I would wait until the pads are bed in (you'll know when) and then see what you think, if they're still crap then re-bleed.
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Louise
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Joined: 22 May 2006
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PostPosted: 19:50 - 13 Mar 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote
I will have anothe crack this weekend

Quote:
also you are putting the bleed tube in a small cup of brake fluid right to prevent seepage in


No, I do what Ive done on my old bikes - pump lever, hold - loosen nipple, tighten and keep pumping.
Will try to look for some tubing also Thumbs Up
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Howling Terror
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Joined: 05 Dec 2008
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PostPosted: 00:07 - 14 Mar 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote
My technique FTIW

Tube on nipple
Mastercyclinder topped
Spanner & rag
Whilst slowly squeezing the lever loosen the bleed screw, just before the lever reaches the bar nip the screw and repeat until no more air bubbles.

Works fine for me.

Pat
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Itchy
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Joined: 07 Apr 2005
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PostPosted: 00:22 - 14 Mar 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote
Louise wrote:


No, I do what Ive done on my old bikes - pump lever, hold - loosen nipple, tighten and keep pumping.
Will try to look for some tubing also Thumbs Up


Thats bad as it allows air to seep back into via the bleed nipple, while with a plastic tube (better if its clear , I bought some from a motor factors it is apparently a battery tube of some kind for £1.50)... You pump the fluid comes out and forms a barrier to air getting back into the system via the bleed nipple.
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Howling Terror
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PostPosted: 00:36 - 14 Mar 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote
Quote:
I bought some from a motor factors it is apparently a battery tube of some kind for £1.50)...

in the past i've managed to snip the excess off my battery tube and use that. Also snipped the end offa bicycle pump adapter and used that.

1 thing i'll do if i've had to drain my system and i'm still getting spongy brakes is to to tap the caliper, hose and master cylinder. Have some string tied to the lever and again squeeze the lever whilst loosening the bleed screw, nip just before reaching the bar and tie off lever tight. Tap again and leave until the next day if poss. The pressure helps to push the air back into the master cylinder where it can escape.

Pat
Bleedin' Brakes
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reckless_b
Trackday Trickster



Joined: 22 Feb 2009
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PostPosted: 18:12 - 14 Mar 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote
A little dodge I usually do is while the master cylinder top is off I tap the brake pipes with the handle of a screw driver and at the same time quickly pull and release the brake lever you will see bubbles come back into the master cyl, sort of a variation of tieing back the lever
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