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'Home made' immobiliser

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Biker100
Nitrous Nuisance



Joined: 10 May 2006
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PostPosted: 19:39 - 01 Oct 2006    Post subject: 'Home made' immobiliser Reply with quote

well basicly i'm wanting to fit some sort of imobiliser switch to the bike (02 nsr), as i dont trust the scallys from the estate.

i'de just like some help from you lot rly, it would be much apreciated.

i was thinking about cutting/rejoining the starter motor live wire and installing some sort or switch which would be hidden, but then realised it could still be 'bump' started.

i then thought about doing the same with the HT lead but dont know what sort of affect it would have with it being 'high tension'. would it effect it??

any body got any suggestions on where to fit the switch??

thanx liam
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 19:46 - 01 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

You want a switch that connects the ignition coil input to earth. It wont be going anywhere (under its own steam) with the coil earthed. The ignition will still light up but it won't start.
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KatOwner
Nova Slayer



Joined: 30 Jul 2006
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PostPosted: 20:53 - 02 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't try and tap into HT voltage. The switch would probably result in a permanently immobilised ignition! I can't think of a switch that would handle HT voltages Very Happy

Anyway..... I personally have tried fitting a switch under the seat that interrupted the power supply from battery to the ignition ( in much the same way a normal kill-switch does ), and also the 'earth the coil' approach. The latter is MUCH less likely to cause problems. You have to be careful you don't end up with a flat battery!

Ultimately, though, the only way to stop the scally's having the thing away is to lock it to something immovable with a bloody huge chain!
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loply
World Chat Champion



Joined: 24 Mar 2004
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PostPosted: 23:22 - 02 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just follow the wires from the kill switch and add another switch to them.

Safest and surest way IMO.

For an NSR125 though mate, I could put that in my rucksack if I wanted to nick it, so it's only half the battle to stop the engine from starting.
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Biker100
Nitrous Nuisance



Joined: 10 May 2006
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PostPosted: 20:37 - 03 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

thank for the help people.

i currently have it chained to the wall, chained to a gas canister and disklocked f and r inside my shed. call me paranoid but i still dnt think its safe.

tbh the most likely people to take it are the scallys who will only be using it to 'rag'. so if it doesnt start they'll hopefully leave it.

i think i'm going to go with the, earthing the ignition coil method as i think this will be most efective.

thanks liam Smile
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nrml76
Brolly Dolly



Joined: 05 Nov 2005
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PostPosted: 22:54 - 03 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

On one of my mates bikes, we fixed an extra automotive toggle switch in the kill switch circuit, and mounted it deep underneath the fuel tank. It worked very well. Make sure you use automotive switches, as the vibration damages ordinary switches. Use good quality wires also. The wires have habit of breaking off were the are fixed to the switch.
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loply
World Chat Champion



Joined: 24 Mar 2004
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PostPosted: 22:20 - 04 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

nrml76 wrote:
Make sure you use automotive switches, as the vibration damages ordinary switches.


Never heard that one before, interesting.

I still insist the best kill switch for the cool-factor would be a magnetically activated latching switch (I think theyre called reed switches?).

Then you would have to swipe a magnet over a particular random spot on the fairing before the engine will start.
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Phoenix
Twisted Firestarter



Joined: 01 Aug 2002
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PostPosted: 22:30 - 04 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

A reed switch needs a constant magnetic source though to be on otherwise as soon as u remove the magnet it'll break the circuit again.
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alien.46.uk
Could Be A Chat Bot



Joined: 24 May 2006
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PostPosted: 23:39 - 04 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hmm ... I Like the idea of a simple switch to cut off power etc ...

Would a switch just after the Pos+ connection not work without draining the battery?

Luke.
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1998 Yamaha FZS600 Fazer - SOLD :: 1994 Aprilia Pegaso 125 - SOLD
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 23:45 - 04 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

alien.46.uk wrote:
Hmm ... I Like the idea of a simple switch to cut off power etc ...

Would a switch just after the Pos+ connection not work without draining the battery?

Luke.


Depends on the wiring of the bike. Many bikes (especially 125s) don't actually need the battery. Also depends where the reg/rec feeds into the loom. It is usually somewhere near the battery electrically but not necessarily spatially.
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